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Lalo_uy

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I actually think that this is the schematic for that relay board:

View attachment 776988

The jumper doesn't seem to select which relay point to use -- both are broken out -- it actually inverts the signal going to the relay.
That diagram is wrong. The colector of the opto is Not conected.
And the relay coil is only connected to heather pin3
 

Burnf16

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Hey all, I'm hoping someone can point out what is probably an obvious error I'm making in my ESP8266 Brewpi build. I can't get Fermentrack to recognize any of my DS18B20 probes when mocked up on thorrak's latest "main" and "sensor breakout" PCBs.

It works fine when I just put the 8266 (and even an ESP32-S2 mini) on a breadboard and wire the sensors directly to the ESP using the same power supply. The only measurable difference I can see is that I get ~4.6V at the probe Data pin when wired to the breadboard and only 3.3V when wired to the PCBs (the jumper on the main board is using 5v to power the probes, confirmed with a multimeter).

I'm using a LoLin D1 Mini supplied by thorrak (and a Hiletgo ESP32-S2 mini from Amazon, just to see), probes and power supply from a working Arduino BrewPi build. Im using the docker version of Fermentrack and tried v0.11 and v0.14 firmware on the boards.

Long-time lurker, and very grateful for all the work you guys do!

IMG_7825.jpg tempImagefuvRvg.png tempImageYEaXv3.png IMG_7828.jpg
 
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Thorrak

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Hey all, I'm hoping someone can point out what is probably an obvious error I'm making in my ESP8266 Brewpi build. I can't get Fermentrack to recognize any of my DS18B20 probes when mocked up on thorrak's latest "main" and "sensor breakout" PCBs.

It works fine when I just put the 8266 (and even an ESP32-S2 mini) on a breadboard and wire the sensors directly to the ESP using the same power supply. The only measurable difference I can see is that I get ~4.6V at the probe Data pin when wired to the breadboard and only 3.3V when wired to the PCBs (the jumper on the main board is using 5v to power the probes, confirmed with a multimeter).

I'm using a LoLin D1 Mini supplied by thorrak (and a Hiletgo ESP32-S2 mini from Amazon, just to see), probes and power supply from a working Arduino BrewPi build. Im using the docker version of Fermentrack and tried v0.11 and v0.14 firmware on the boards.

Long-time lurker, and very grateful for all the work you guys do!

View attachment 781695 View attachment 781692 View attachment 781693 View attachment 781694
Is your Ethernet cable straight through or crossover?

To tell, take a look at the end of the cable and compare the colors of the wires. Should be the same colors in the same order on both ends.
 

Burnf16

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Is your Ethernet cable straight through or crossover?

To tell, take a look at the end of the cable and compare the colors of the wires. Should be the same colors in the same order on both ends.
It's a straight-through patch cable right out of the package. Also tried a different cable...same result. I checked continuity between the sensor board pins and the proper ESP pins. Also, there's no continuity on pins that shouldn't have it, so I'm reasonably confident it's not a botched solder job.
 

nhannath

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Hey all, I'm hoping someone can point out what is probably an obvious error I'm making in my ESP8266 Brewpi build. I can't get Fermentrack to recognize any of my DS18B20 probes when mocked up on thorrak's latest "main" and "sensor breakout" PCBs.

It works fine when I just put the 8266 (and even an ESP32-S2 mini) on a breadboard and wire the sensors directly to the ESP using the same power supply. The only measurable difference I can see is that I get ~4.6V at the probe Data pin when wired to the breadboard and only 3.3V when wired to the PCBs (the jumper on the main board is using 5v to power the probes, confirmed with a multimeter).

I'm using a LoLin D1 Mini supplied by thorrak (and a Hiletgo ESP32-S2 mini from Amazon, just to see), probes and power supply from a working Arduino BrewPi build. Im using the docker version of Fermentrack and tried v0.11 and v0.14 firmware on the boards.

Long-time lurker, and very grateful for all the work you guys do!

View attachment 781695 View attachment 781692 View attachment 781693 View attachment 781694
Do you have the jumper on the main board selecting the 5v or 3.3v setting? I seem to remember it not finding the sensors if nothing is selected.

1663971905592.png


I see you have the jumper on the main board sorry. I gave up of the surface mounted boards due to my limited skills and eyesight but it seems like a similar issue I had with no jumper in place.

I could be off and just guessing but are you meant to have resistors in this area?? It looks like an area for one of the small resistors to be soldered?

1663972310310.png
 
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Thorrak

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It's a straight-through patch cable right out of the package. Also tried a different cable...same result. I checked continuity between the sensor board pins and the proper ESP pins. Also, there's no continuity on pins that shouldn't have it, so I'm reasonably confident it's not a botched solder job.
What happens if you switch the jumper to 3.3v?
 
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Thorrak

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Do you have the jumper on the main board selecting the 5v or 3.3v setting? I seem to remember it not finding the sensors if nothing is selected.

View attachment 781708

I see you have the jumper on the main board sorry. I gave up of the surface mounted boards due to my limited skills and eyesight but it seems like a similar issue I had with no jumper in place.

I could be off and just guessing but are you meant to have resistors in this area?? It looks like an area for one of the small resistors to be soldered?

View attachment 781710

That's an optional solder bridge location if you want to permanently choose a voltage. I'd guess that 90% of builds won't use it, but it was free to add.

The whole reason the selector exists is due to an issue I had with a build once where I had sensors that worked fine with 3v3 but not with 5v. Step one for debugging this symptom is doing exactly what you mentioned and checking to make sure that at least one voltage is selected. Step two is to then check the other voltage.

Step three is to go cry in a corner because these things are almost all knock-offs at this point with minimal quality control...
 

Burnf16

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That's an optional solder bridge location if you want to permanently choose a voltage. I'd guess that 90% of builds won't use it, but it was free to add.

The whole reason the selector exists is due to an issue I had with a build once where I had sensors that worked fine with 3v3 but not with 5v. Step one for debugging this symptom is doing exactly what you mentioned and checking to make sure that at least one voltage is selected. Step two is to then check the other voltage.

Step three is to go cry in a corner because these things are almost all knock-offs at this point with minimal quality control...
Same result with the jumper on 3v3. I'm seeing 3.3V on the sensor Vcc pin, as expected.
 

LBussy

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Same result with the jumper on 3v3. I'm seeing 3.3V on the sensor Vcc pin, as expected.
As I said in the other thread (this seems to be common thing these days) the selection is for the sensor power only. The data pull-up is 3V3 because that's what the controller needs. If you are sure everything else is correct, either swap the resistor with a 2k2, or piggy-back another 4k7 alongside the first to give you 2k2 (almost, 2350 ohms actually.)
 
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Burnf16

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tempImagel0xBUX.jpg

Might have found the problem. I believe R1 is a 4.7ohm resistor instead of a 4.7k. It's labeled 4R70 and multi-meter confirms 4.7ohm. Resistance between D6 and 3V3 also measures 4.7ohm.
 

DuncB

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How do you change a resistor like that? they are so small, I struggle to remove the LED on the ispindel motherboard that's surplus to requirements let alone solder something that small.
 

Burnf16

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How do you change a resistor like that? they are so small, I struggle to remove the LED on the ispindel motherboard that's surplus to requirements let alone solder something that small.
Apparently it takes a pair of tiny tweezers, a microscope, and a steady hand. None of which I have.
 

day_trippr

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fwiw, I use copper desoldering braid to wick most of the solder off the pads/pins of both SMT and thru-hole parts. Once that's done some slight prying/rocking with flat-nosed pliers will usually pop the part loose...

Cheers!
 

ChrisThomas

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I'm still testing the new AIO PCB and firmware, but I think some adjustment of the text is needed?

Just connected up to temperature sensors and relay(SSR). What are the default pins for heating and cooling on the AIO PCB and D32? While I work on cable replacement and looming...
Room.jpg


Fridge.jpg
 

ChrisThomas

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How do you change a resistor like that? they are so small, I struggle to remove the LED on the ispindel motherboard that's surplus to requirements let alone solder something that small.
Desoldering braid is my prefered method along with as already said (ceramic)tweezers, or try and get the whole resistor hot enough to melt the solder and then push it off the pad with the iron. I wouldn't recommend cutting the resistor as that has a good chance of damaging the pads/tracks. Just remember that the pads/tracks are attached to the sunstrate with glue and if it gets too hot then they detach from the substrate.

EDIT: I should also add that a pair of strong reading glasses are now required to perform these tasks!
 
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ChrisThomas

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I've flashed my D32 with V0.14 but I can't set the heat/cool to inverted? I get a failed to write to EEPROM error, but the pin is set, just not inverted?
 

ChrisThomas

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Tried erasing EEPROM then reflash, no change. Tried erasing EEPROM, reflash, then erase EEPROM, no change.

So I can set the pin but I can't invert it. When I do I get cannot write to EEPROM error but the pin is assigned, just not inverted. I think I'm going to get a different relay board, if nothing else as a spare...

EDIT: My system is two controllers in one box and I've just started off a new wine so tricky to do any more testing for a couple of weeks.
 

ChrisThomas

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Just to confirm, if I set any pin as inverted I do not get an error when I assign. If I try and set the any pin as not inverted and assign then the pin gets assigned but as inverted and I get EEPROM error. I'm assigning pin 25 as heating and pin 26 as cooling, all temperature probes get assigned without error.
 

nhannath

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RAPT Temperature Controlled Fermentation Chamber | MoreBeer - Just seen this on morebeer. $1499.00. Chest Freezer and fermentrack and controller for about $400 all in. I'm always amazed at how accurate (to .1 F) fermentrack keeps the temp after the first day. I generally get positive reviews of my beer which I put mostly down to good fermentation control - Thanks. Glad i don't have to shell out $1500 on an air temp monitored system. Thoughts ?
 

DuncB

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RAPT Temperature Controlled Fermentation Chamber | MoreBeer - Just seen this on morebeer. $1499.00. Chest Freezer and fermentrack and controller for about $400 all in. I'm always amazed at how accurate (to .1 F) fermentrack keeps the temp after the first day. I generally get positive reviews of my beer which I put mostly down to good fermentation control - Thanks. Glad i don't have to shell out $1500 on an air temp monitored system. Thoughts ?
Quite agree, got my ferment fridge freezer for free, so just the cost and time to build the components. Does the job perfectly in my opinion.
 
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Thorrak

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I'm still testing the new AIO PCB and firmware, but I think some adjustment of the text is needed?

Just connected up to temperature sensors and relay(SSR). What are the default pins for heating and cooling on the AIO PCB and D32? While I work on cable replacement and looming...
...but controlling the temperature of your Roomge is all the rage!

Sorry I missed these messages last week -- I'll get an issue raised on GitHub for the text not resetting.

The list of default pins is available here for all supported chipsets.
 

ChrisThomas

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@Thorrak No rush, I'm doing a lot of visiting over the next few weeks across the country, will be able to test properly in after next weekend. There were a few other text non overrights as well, where the "new" text is shorter than the "old" and the end of the old text remains, in the good old days my solution was to add trailing white space to the strings, but that was a LOOONG time ago!
 

ChrisThomas

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Ermmm... I've moved my network around and moved all brewing related gadgets onto their own network and it's gone a bit wrong! When I say wrong, I have 2 BrewPi controllers, one D1mini and on D32, the D1 mini BrewPi controller is fine, the D32 is having a serious breakdown. The D1mini hasn't had any issues at any point I should point out. So what have I done?

I tried just to move networks by connecting to the AP for each controller and attach to new network. This appeared to go without issue. However the D32 started dropping off the network, it returned to AP mode a few times. So I tried to connect to new network and again it worked for a while, but kept dropping off. I thought I'd reflash to clear things out. The network connectivity is now fine, but I cannot configure any pins or temperature sensor, I get the try resetting EEPROM message every time I hit any assign button.

I reflashed again but the symptoms remain the same. Some interesting observations: I don't think the reflash cleared the existing configuration as on first boot I was seeing a temperature reading from one (the only connected) temperature sensor and the set temperature levels were as I had set before re-flashing. When I go into Configure Sensors/Pins/Devices there were no installed devices. I've tried assiging different pin/sensor combinations but always get the try reseting EEPROM message.

There were no temperature readings but Fridge and beer were both set to 20C (as previous). If I change control mode from off to beer constant and change the temperature, I get a temperature reading from the (connected) temperature sensor and the set temperature changes accordingly. Changing back to temperature control off clears the temperature set values, but I still get a temperature reading and there are no assigned devices listed?

The good news though that this cycle of the temperature control seems to have cleared something! Now I can, and have, assigned devices and pins successfully!? Pins are correctly assigned and temperature sensors are reading. This has survived a couple of power cycles now without any further issues.

A bit rambling but does any of that make sense?


P.S. The issue with not being able to set a Not Inverted relay pin is still the same (I don't mean you haven't fixed it yet, just not affected by what I encountered above).
 
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Backfire2510

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Hello everyone. It's been a time since I follow this forum but today was the day to perform the registration :)

I am having trouble setting the ESP8266 Wifi with versions v0.10, v0.11, and v0.14-beta. I tried to flash it from Fermentrack, BrewFlasher, and ESPTool but every time I get the following output from my Serial Monitor:
ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:2, boot mode(3,6)

load 0x4010f000, len 1384, room 16
tail 8
chksum 0x2d
csum 0x2d
v614f7c32
~ld
I am using a Webmos Mini and I do not know if this is a firmware bug or a problem with my board. I followed fermentrack and brewpi-esp8266 documentation and nothing helped me. :(
Tried to switch the cable and is the same. Flashed the Serial Firmware and works great but I want to upgrade to Wifi. How can I solve this issue? Feel free to request additional information for troubleshooting.

Also, tried to flash an esp32 and I got everything working, except the documentation doesn't tell anything about the pinout. The configuration on Fermentrack cannot find any ds18b20 probe. Anyone knows where can I find the ESP32 Pinout for BrewPi?
 

bscuderi

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I have designed a custom PCB that is designed to go in the compressor hump and replace the mini fridges circuit board it houses either a d1 mini or s2 mini and right now I'm using the s2 mini. So far it works well, however, there is one problem. Intermittently I believe noise causes either my chamber temp or my beer temp probe to return 0 for just one reading, then all other readings are fine, I assume that is from a null or seemingly disconnected sensor. If this was just a graphing annoyance I could deal. However, when it does this it kicks off the relay and restarts the wait time etc. A lot of times it coincides with compressor startup which is an obviously noisy time. As far as the probes they are being powered by 3.3v and a 4.7k resistor. Perhaps in a a future revision I can make a selectable jumper to allow either 5v or 3.3v power. However, that would require redesigning and reprinting to troubleshoot and I'm not sure that's the issue since I have many other ds18b20s powered this way aquarium temps pool temps etc.. To be fair none of these have as much electrical noise as the fridge. I'm thinking this has to be correctable either by a setting or software addition to ignore the zero reading and as long as it doesn't occur say for a "x" amount of readings before it decides to graph it and safety shutoff the relays??
Screenshot (3).png
 

wd16261

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I used to have this problem too and first I replaced the 4k7 resistor with a 2K, this already reduced it a lot but eventually I replaced the DS18B20 with a new one and then the problem completely disappeared.
1617275481781.png
 

bscuderi

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I used to have this problem too and first I replaced the 4k7 resistor with a 2K, this already reduced it a lot but eventually I replaced the DS18B20 with a new one and then the problem completely disappeared.
dang these are new sensors. I could change the resistor but its a small smd component so it might suck
 

bscuderi

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Mine were also new but I did order 10 at once so had plenty in reserve
Ill order some more I use them all over I have one spare ill have to see if it works better on the worst offender.. Still wondering if it is a common problem if its something software should account for.
 

bscuderi

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I used to have this problem too and first I replaced the 4k7 resistor with a 2K, this already reduced it a lot but eventually I replaced the DS18B20 with a new one and then the problem completely disappeared.
View attachment 785705
So I connected the spare I had and it isn't doing it at all anymore. I wished I knew the good sources of sensors with all the fakes out there I ordered some more as ideally I'd like to replace both. Especially since the spare I had read about 5 degrees off any other sensor lol I could apply an offset but I figure that's a sign it just wasn't very good. But looking at my amazon I've ordered so many companies over the years its hard to know who gave me good ones and who gave me bad ones. Is there a recommended source of good sensors?
 
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