I think so....I've flushed the entire system twice with 5 gallons of boiling water and everything appears OK.psychodad said:I take it you are going to inject steam or hot water through the upper level of piping? Is the PVC going to be up to that?
Bobby_M said:Rube Goldberg called. He wants his mash tun back!
I get it, the top part is a bracket to hold the sparge manifold at a specific height. It's a bit overboard when you could have just laid it on top of the mash and like Pol said, close the lid while you sparge.
I probably wouldn't be the best person to ask as I'm still a noob to all of this.....I was just trying to get as much surface area as possible on the sparge arm in order to reduce channeling, and on the drain manifold to reduce the chance of a stuck sparge.wildwest450 said:Im about to build mine, im also using cpvc, is it necessary to make a full square with runners in the middle? I was just thinking of making a simple T shape, after all if you use stainless, you just have a straight tube.
The Pol said:If you use stainless, the sparge arm spins and they are made to fit round MLTs... so they cover the entire grain bed... the more even coverage you have, the less channeling you have and the better your results. Here is a video of mine in action.
Hmmm....I wonder if Lowes carries sparge manifold pontoons?The Pol said:If it wont "float" on top of the grainbed, it would be neat to have some sort of floatation device to keep it on top of the grain or water level while the lid is closed.