My IC's lines are touching the top of the boil kettle, what do I do?

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Beer Viking

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I have not used my boil kettle yet but the IC's lines are touching the top but they are almost level with the top. Should I wrap cloth or something around the part of the lines that are touching?
 

odie

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yeah...so what? What exactly IS the issue? The only thing I can think of is your IC is too short and can't drop all the way into the wort.....but you don't say anything about that...

If ya want help, tell us what the real issue is...
 

hotbeer

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Many of us probably don't immerse our IC's until we are ready to chill anyhow. So what does it matter? As long as most of the chiller coils or plates are submerged, you should be good.

Your OP does leave us imagining what your real issue is, so you might need to describe that if we haven't already guessed.

I'm thinking you are worried about damaging the flexible lines with the heat from your burner. But that's only a guess about your incomplete description.
 

bracconiere

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my IC tubing rests on the top of the kettle, i don't think it's a problem? 🤞

i did have a problem once with it dripping into the wort. :( but i bent the copper so the clamped tubing is not in the kettle anymore...
 
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Sorry, I should have explained my concern more clearly. I have never boiled a batch before, if the lines of my IC are in constant contact with the top of my boil kettle, could they melt or be damaged?
 

bracconiere

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Sorry, I should have explained my concern more clearly. I have never boiled a batch before, if the lines of my IC are in constant contact with the top of my boil kettle, could they melt or be damaged?
as i said, if the connection to the intake or outflow is over the wort they could drip....now i'm wondering what your IC looks like/made out of? most are copper and aren't going to melt without a torch?

can you post a picture?
 

hotbeer

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.......if the lines of my IC are in constant contact with the top of my boil kettle, could they melt or be damaged?
Don't put it in until flameout or shortly before. You cleaned it the last time you used it didn't you? I've always got a bucket of sanitizer mixed that has already sanitized the fermenter and other necessary things. So I frequently drop my IC in the sanitizer bucket after everything else is sanitized. Though at the temps of the boil, most everything will be sanitized by the heat anyway.

And you should pay attention to what @bracconiere said about not letting the tubing that might be connected to your IC overhang into the pot. If that starts leaking, you might ruin your beer. Bending the tubes of the IC down will let any leakage drip outside the kettle.
 
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as i said, if the connection to the intake or outflow is over the wort they could drip....now i'm wondering what your IC looks like/made out of? most are copper and aren't going to melt without a torch?

can you post a picture?
The only parts that will be in contact with my boil kettle are the two silicon lines coming off of the IC. I can post a picture if that would help. Essestually I wanted to ask if my silicon lines from my IC are in contact with the top of my boil kettle could they be damaged or leak?
 

bracconiere

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could they be damaged or leak?

pretty sure silicone can handle boiling water temps, but i'd bend the IC so that the connection to the metal of the IC is not over the wort, because i've had them drip on me before.....


but if the burner is going, flames would probably f up the silicone tubing. but not the pot?
 

yoop89

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Silicone can take pretty high heat(600°F) so as long as they arent in direct contact with the flames they should be fine. I have my tubing hooked up for recirc during the last 10 minutes of my boil to sanitize my plate chiller and have not had any problems in the last two years.

*Quick edit to add to make sure you have silicone hoses. Most chillers commercially are sold with vinyl tubing which will melt below boiling temps so dont let them get close to any heat source. Which is also why connections can loosen up if they are close to boiling wort similar to what brac mentioned.
 

moto125

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I've had the vinyl tubes to my IC melt from either the kettle or flames, probably flames. Go ahead and post a picture, but you want any vinyl to be as far away from the heat as possible. I'm not sure about silicone
 
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Thanks everyone, that really clears things up. Should I start whirlpooling 15 mins before flameout and then drop the IC in at flame out and chill the wort until I can move it into my primary fermenter?
 

hotbeer

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You seem unconvinced that 212°F (100°C) wort won't kill most anything that might be on your chiller.

Unless it's inconvenient to wait till flameout. But if you have to move your kettle from the burner closer to water source, why not just wait till you are ready to start cooling and in the place that you will be cooling it?
 

bracconiere

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You seem unconvinced that 212°F (100°C) wort won't kill most anything that might be on your chiller.

my understanding is that it actually takes 250f steam, and 15psi....but most of what survives the pasturization isn't bad for you.....
 

Brewdog80

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Pasteurization is 160f. 212f will take care of any wild yeast and most bacteria . Heck you can brew without boiling....but that was when it was wild yeast fermentation....
 

RM-MN

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my understanding is that it actually takes 250f steam, and 15psi....but most of what survives the pasturization isn't bad for you.....
The only organism that survives boiling temps would be botulin spores and that is why low acid vegetables require the pressure canner.
 
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