My glass stove-top sucks, looking for heating/boil upgrades (cheaper = better)

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Hoochin'Fool

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Can a guy use a heat-stick / boil-stick to boil wort? Or should it only be used for heating plain water?

My glass-top stove is awful, and the Walmart "marketplace 5.0 gal SS stockpot" that I just bought last week cannot even get 2.0 gal water to boil! I think it must have a layer of asbestos at the bottom. For what it's worth, my 5.5 gal "Tramontina" SS stockpot) can boil 2.5 gal reasonably well.
 
I use can boil 5 gallons on my (somewhat old) smooth top Kenmore stove using an 8 gallon brew kettle.
However, it takes a long time to get going and I've learned to use 2 pots. I BIAB in the big pot and then do a dunk sparge in a cheap 16 quart pot. Then boil in both pots, I may move some of the wort over from the bigger kettle to the smaller one since it gets boiling faster. Eventually everything boils and gets combined and the beer comes out fine.
Perhaps the OP needs to new stove?
 
Though elements in direct contact with wort do work and have been used by numerous brewers, I have not been a fan.

So, I got an induction cooktop and couldn’t be more pleased in its performance. I have a 220v 3600w version that I power from my dryer outlet for 5 gal batches (heat 7-8 gal strike and boil 6-6.5 gal routinely).

I use HERMS vs RIMS for the same reason: the heating element is not in direct contact with the wort.
 
Can a guy use a heat-stick / boil-stick to boil wort? Or should it only be used for heating plain water?

My glass-top stove is awful, and the Walmart "marketplace 5.0 gal SS stockpot" that I just bought last week cannot even get 2.0 gal water to boil! I think it must have a layer of asbestos at the bottom. For what it's worth, my 5.5 gal "Tramontina" SS stockpot) can boil 2.5 gal reasonably well.
Are you restricting yourself to indoors?
 
Define "cheaper" and tell us what other limitations you have. It's real easy for someone to say "Get a 220v induction cook top" but that might not be the right answer if your dryer outlet is in a closet or something (or if you have a gas dryer).

You can get a 100,000 BTU propane burner pretty cheap, but that won't help if you can't brew outside. And you'll have to buy propane.
 
... let's explore some alternatives (for future readers) while waiting for details from OP ...

So, I got an induction cooktop and couldn’t be more pleased in its performance. I have a 220v 3600w version that I power from my dryer outlet for 5 gal batches (heat 7-8 gal strike and boil 6-6.5 gal routinely).

I use a 120 v (1800 w) cook top for my 2.5-ish gal batches.
 
You mentioned 2.5 gal; is that your desired batch size or is that just what you feel limited to? I use an 1800 W, 120 V induction burner I bought off Amazon for under $40 for small (max of 3 gal) batches with great success, but I doubt it would work well for 5-gal batches.
 
I recently got this....

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/av...on-range-cooker-208-240v-3500w/177IC3500.html
Several other members here have mentioned in other threads that they use one and were happy. That prompted me to get one as I moved to doing slightly larger batches that my stove couldn't keep up with well.

It needs a 220 volts to plug into with a NEMA 6-20P outlet. But if your kettle is induction compatible it will get your water boiling quick. Much quicker than the 17,000 BTU burner of my gas stove top which didn't boil 3 gallons as hard as I will have liked.

Only issue is that I use it on top of the existing stove when I'm brewing and the boil produces so much steam, my exhaust fan over the stove can't keep up and I had condensation dripping down all over like rain. So I need to get that upgraded to a more powerful exhaust fan or find somewhere else to do my boil.

There is also a 1800 watt version that runs off 120 volt with a normal plug. But that's only the equivalent of a 1300 BTU 13,000 BTU burner. So maybe not great for boiling more than 2 or 3 gallons of wort. Other's here might have one and can comment on their actual experience for how hard it boils.
 
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Only issue is that I use it [the IC3500] on top of the existing stove when I'm brewing
I would recommend not doing that because of the very high localized pressure. All that weight is transferred to the glass top by the induction plate's feet, which have a very small area.

The sheer weight of a full 8-10 gallon kettle on a glass top stove has always been one of my main concerns. Combined with the relatively slow heating (even on a "triple" element) and lack of headspace due to the (useless) stove fan, I switched to an IC3500.

my exhaust fan over the stove can't keep up and I had condensation dripping down all over like rain. So I need to get that upgraded to a more powerful exhaust fan or find somewhere else to do my boil.
Using an IC3500 on a kitchen countertop has been working like a charm. I just open a window above it and put a box fan in it when brewing.
 
Moving houses soon myself, having to leave my beloved gas stove top behind :(.

I'm curious about the options I might have.
If it's yours, can you take it with you?

I think induction has a true future. It's very efficient and fast.
But not every house in Europe is set up for that kind of draw without a dedicated circuit. 3500W takes ~15 amps at 240V. My aunt was one of the very few who people I knew who had an electric stove. It had sealed elements on top, looking like raised discs.
 
I think induction has a true future.
Others have been telling me that for at least 10 years. But I'm now thinking the same since I got this little single induction burner.

And with a kitchen remodel in partial progress and about to be full remodel I'm torn between switching from natural gas to induction as my heavy and expensive copper/stainless steel pots and pans don't work on induction.

While I've used sealed radiant stove before in the past, I wonder if I'd be happy with them as opposed to trashing my current pots and pans and going with induction. Or just stay gas since it already is. Decisions, decisions.....
 
I use can boil 5 gallons on my (somewhat old) smooth top Kenmore stove using an 8 gallon brew kettle.
However, it takes a long time to get going and I've learned to use 2 pots. I BIAB in the big pot and then do a dunk sparge in a cheap 16 quart pot. Then boil in both pots, I may move some of the wort over from the bigger kettle to the smaller one since it gets boiling faster. Eventually everything boils and gets combined and the beer comes out fine.
Perhaps the OP needs to new stove?
Yes, I was hoping to I'd be able to make a little larger batch size with a second big stockpot. I would sure like a new stove, but that's not an option!
 
To answer a few questions posted... (thanks everyone, by the way)!!!

I would definitely prefer to stay indoors, so it's going to have to be an induction! The heat stick idea looks less appealing after some googling.

I would like to be able to boil up to 4 gallons (for a resulting 3.x gallon wort). If that has to happen in two stockpots (which I already have) on two cheap 120v induction burners, that would be ok. The house was built in 1996, not sure if the 120v lines support 1500 watts or 1800 watts. Is there a way to tell?

We do have a 220v dryer outlet, but it's in a closet with no room to spare. Would need a 25 foot extension cord. Tho the $200+ price on that 240v Avantco is a lot more than I wanted to spend.
 
Is that starting with say 3 gallons, and boiling down to 2.5? Or boiling 2 gallons and adding top-off water?
In your example, I would start with 3 gallons and boil down to 2.5.



Some additional details on my setup: I insulate the sides of kettle using two layers of Reflectx; during the mash rest, I'll throw a bath towel over the lid.
 
The house was built in 1996, not sure if the 120v lines support 1500 watts or 1800 watts. Is there a way to tell?

Check the circuit breaker for the outlet(s) you'd most likely use. Assuming wiring to code (back then, anyway) if a circuit has a 10A breaker it's limited to 1200 watts, 15A is 1800 watts, 20A would be 2400 watts. Of course, generally you don't want to run a circuit at the limit :)

Cheers!
 
The house was built in 1996, not sure if the 120v lines support 1500 watts or 1800 watts. Is there a way to tell?
In addition to what day_trippr said, you'll want to try to figure out how many outlets are on each circuit and what else is plugged into them. You'll probably have to avoid using your toaster oven while you're brewing for instance.

If you're lucky, you might have two different 15A branch circuits feeding outlets on your kitchen counter. If you're not lucky, you have one 15A branch circuit for the whole shebang, refrigerator included. But if that were the case, you'd probably be tripping it pretty frequently already.

I don't think I've ever seen a 10 amp breaker.
 
In your example, I would start with 3 gallons and boil down to 2.5.

Some additional details on my setup: I insulate the sides of kettle using two layers of Reflectx; during the mash rest, I'll throw a bath towel over the lid.
I hadn't thought of using reflectix! That seems like the sort of thing I should try first, before buying an induction burner.

Check the circuit breaker for the outlet(s) you'd most likely use. Assuming wiring to code (back then, anyway) if a circuit has a 10A breaker it's limited to 1200 watts, 15A is 1800 watts, 20A would be 2400 watts. Of course, generally you don't want to run a circuit at the limit :)

Cheers!
Thanks, looks like I've got the 15A in main kitchen outlets.
 
So early 60s or a regional thing or what? My house was built in 1967. Most of the wiring is original (12 and 14 gauge two wire metal clad). I think the last owner upgraded the service when they put on an addition and added central air about 30 years ago, but they certainly didn't re-wire the whole house and there isn't any 16 gauge anywhere.
 
And with a kitchen remodel in partial progress and about to be full remodel I'm torn between switching from natural gas to induction as my heavy and expensive copper/stainless steel pots and pans don't work on induction.
Although a side topic here, this certainly is a major dilemma for you, and probably others too.

Are you sure those expensive kettles and pots won't work on induction. Have you tried?

Reason is, much stainless is induction capable and work as promised. For example, none of my kettles are magnetic (a magnet won't stick), they work perfectly on induction. Copper and aluminum do not, of course. Not sure about "unmarked" cladded-bottom ones.

I bought a few smaller, 2.5 gallon tri-clad bottomed pots at IKEA that are induction ready, also non-magnetic and work well. A very thick, or triple clad bottom is recommended to spread the heat and help prevent scorching.

Going with a (flat top) induction vs. radiant vs. choosing gas is a big decision, and needs careful consideration, yes!

FWIW, I'm not crazy impressed with flat top radiant stoves for real cooking, but you learn to work with them. They're spill proof to an extend, and fairly easy to clean. I use a "razor blade" to scrape off burnt on crud, followed by Soft Scrub or a dedicated scouring paste to polish the surface. There are some fine surface scratches from use, but otherwise it looks like new after 13 years of medium hard use.

One other thing.
I would be avoiding Samsung stoves and fridges! Their dishwasher works fine though. I don't know much about their other products, or if problematic designs from a good decade ago have improved enough to be reconsidered.
 
I would sure like a new stove, but that's not an option!
My old Kenmore range with the open coils broke and my current smooth top stove (also a Kenmore) came from an estate auction and I got it for $40.
That was like 10 years ago, and is still working fine, although I did have to spend some time cleaning it up. Some people are paranoid about putting a heavy kettle on a glass top stove, but I do 5 gallon batches without any issues.
If you're on a budget, hunt around on FB marketplace, used stoves go cheaper than the parts it costs to fix an old one sometimes.
 
Can a guy use a heat-stick / boil-stick to boil wort? Or should it only be used for heating plain water?

My glass-top stove is awful, and the Walmart "marketplace 5.0 gal SS stockpot" that I just bought last week cannot even get 2.0 gal water to boil! I think it must have a layer of asbestos at the bottom. For what it's worth, my 5.5 gal "Tramontina" SS stockpot) can boil 2.5 gal reasonably well.
Digiboil 35L going for $199 currently.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/g...TAVAFjC1vsajUVc-VNRRUqta73gia1iIaAgBZEALw_wcB
 
The house was built in 1996, not sure if the 120v lines support 1500 watts or 1800 watts. Is there a way to tell?
While maybe not true everywhere, my house was built in 1989 and even back then, at least here where I'm at, all the kitchen outlets had to be 20 amp service with 12-2 w/G wire. Certain outlets IE. Refrigerator, had to be single service only. Everything else in the house that wasn't special had to be at least 15 amp 14-2 w/G wire.

But check your breaker box as another advised. The amperage will be on the breaker. Turn off the breaker and make certain it actually controls that outlet. Sometimes home repairs or remodeling later change things and the breaker box doesn't get updated with new labeling.

Google up electricians in your area and call a few. You might find some that will run a line for you if it's needed. If your breaker box can handle another circuit it won't be too pricey. But well worth it as under capacity wiring isn't only dangerous. It can also cause the appliance to wear out quick or not operate properly.
 
The house I bought in Phila in 1994 when I lived there was built in the 50s and still had a fuse box.
Well I've certainly seen 10A fuses. :D

But check your breaker box as another advised. The amperage will be on the breaker.
He says he already did and it's a 15A breaker.

My late 60s era kitchen was ridiculously under served. One 20A circuit for the fridge and two countertop outlets and one 15A circuit for the range hood and two other countertop outlets. I guess this wasn't an issue in a world without microwave ovens and countertop air fryers. I put off doing anything about it for years, but once I put in an over-the-range microwave I had no choice. So now the fridge and microwave are each on dedicated 20A lines and two of the countertop outlets are dedicated 15A lines while the other two are on a 20A branch circuit. It was all a lot easier than I thought it would be, and I kicked myself for not doing it much sooner.
 
Code in MA now requires dedicated branches to fridges and dishwashers and everything in the kitchen needs arc fault/ground fault breakers. In fact there were so many wiring code updates since our house was built in the mid-70s that when we gutted out the kitchen we had to change out the original breaker box and run more branches. Pita I didn't see coming...

Cheers!
 
Code in MA now requires dedicated branches to fridges and dishwashers and everything in the kitchen needs arc fault/ground fault breakers.
I think everything in any living space requires arc fault protection now. But bathrooms are not specifically mentioned for some reason. Like a fire in your bathroom wiring is OK somehow?

I don't think refrigerators (or any other appliances specifically) require ground fault protection. But the receptacle that it's plugged into requires GFCI if it's within 6 feet of the sink. A nuisance trip on your refrigerator when you're on vacation is a real, well, nuisance. Ask me how I know.
 
If I was brewing and boiling 5 gal batches inside, I would need to worry as much about the ventilation system as I would the heat source. I would need a commercial quality range hood vent for both the smell and the steam / moisture. I would rather just brew quickly outside with a super hot gas heater even in the winter.
 
@BrewnWKopperKat you rock! Wow, what a difference that reflectix makes!!! I got 2 gallons boiling decently with no lid, and pictured below, 3 gallons boiling decently with a circular reflectix "topper". Just boiling water for the moment, to get timings and evaporation rates, the reflectix "topper" should be okay on top of boiling wort, shouldn't it? <EDIT>: It's NOT OKAY!!!

edit: in case anyone else ever buys a Walmart Marketplace 5.0 gallon stockpot (hey, it was $29, I couldn't refuse)...
Started with 2.0 gal water @ 70F, it took 22 minutes to reach 160F (close to most "strike" temps for biab), and another 20 minutes to go from 160F to 212F. Satisified with the boil I saw, decided to add another 1 gallon of (hot ~ 140F water) -- took about 15 minutes to bring the full 3 gal to a boil.

AFTER 30 minutes boiling (with the now discredited reflectix topper), I had turned 3.0 gal water to 2.4 gal water
 

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...the reflectix "topper" should be okay on top of boiling wort...
LOL after finishing the 30 minute boil, I noticed that all the "silver bits" on the bottom of that topper had disappeared, and migrated to the bottom of the boil kettle.
So I'm going to go ahead and say: do NOT make a circular (and floating) "top" out of reflectix for your boil kettle! I'm going to try something similar but with just aluminum foil, will report back tomorrow night.
 
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