My First Batch of Apple Wine

[iwhitt567]

I've just recently started my first batch of home-brewed apple cider/ apple wine! Now before I begin, I'd like to emphasize two points:

1. This is my very first batch, and if I've messed anything up then that's pretty okay.
2. One of my chief goals in this is to spend as little as possible producing this first batch, so I don't have a lot of the equipment necessary for proper brewing.

I'm using four gallon jugs of Musselman's pasteurized Apple Cider (pictured below), because it was cheap and available, and also because it purports to contain only apple juice and ascorbic acid for preservation.

To that, I've added 4 pounds (about 9 cups) of granulated white sugar, and then a single packet (1/4 oz, I guess?) of Fleischmann's ActiveDry yeast (pictured below).

I'm storing all of this in a 5-gallon plastic water jug (I guess they're called carboys), and for a lock I've thrown together something simple:

It's basically just 4 paper towels folded over each other, held snug beneath the lip by a twisted rubber band and some duct tape just to keep it pressed up against the neck.

I put a mug over that, which fits fairly snug as well, so that air can definitely escape but absolutely nothing's getting inside (except more air, obviously, but as long as there's positive pressure in the container that still shouldn't happen!)

So far, it's been brewing for about 48 hours or so. At the 18-hour mark, I noticed a light apple-sulfur smell, and after some research I was glad to find out that's normal. It got a little more intense over the following 12 hours, but either it's not that bad or I've just gotten used to it. I -think- I can smell alcohol already when I get in close, but that might be my imagination.

Anyway, I have a few questions for the community:

1. What timeline should I expect here, in terms of fermentation? I have no way of testing the alcohol levels myself, but I'd love to hear some general estimates based on similar setups.
2. Failing that, when will it reach maximum potency and is there a way I'll be able to tell? From what I could find, the alcohol tolerance for the yeast I'm using is 12-13%, and I'm sure I used enough sugar to get to that point, but how long might that take?
3. What equipment do I absolutely need, next time I try to do this? For instance, I'm happy using this cheap lock substitution, but if it's going to present massive problems, I might get something more professional.

Thanks for your input!

 

[DoctorCAD]

You're guessing at everything, really can't help.

 

[renrutle]

First, congrats in jumping in head first to brewing. I think many of us here started with a very basic setup and recipe like you are doing. Don't be discouraged and keep at it even if this batch does not turn out as nice as you would like.

I started an apple wine a few days go using a recipe very similar to yours (5 gallons of pasteurized apple juice and 2 pounds of corn sugar) except for the yeast. I selected a wine yeast.

I also started a batch of JOAM today using one package of the exact same yeast you showed.

You can check out the recipes here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f25/man-i-love-apfelwein-14860/

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f80/joes-ancient-orange-mead-49106/

1. Both recipes call for a 4 week primary fermentation. I recommend that you try to be at least that patient. Also be aware that there is more chemistry occurring than just converting sugar to ethanol and CO2. Patience is always needed.
   
2. If by maximum potency you mean highest alcohol content, it will probably take all 4 weeks. See this post for some comments. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f30/fleischmanns-yeast-took-jaom-14-abv-169328/
   
3. Additional equipment should include
   • Sanitizer (Idophor or Starsan) Sanitation if one of the most important things that will contribute to the quality of your product.
   • An airlock or blowoff tube to replace the paper towels and duck tape
   • A hydrometer to measure specific gravity and calculate alcohol content
   • A racking cane with tubing to transfer the final product to bottles or kegs
   • There is lots of other equipment but this is what is in many starter kits
4. In addition to equipment you will need a way to control temperature somewhat. I started brewing in my pantry that stayed a constant 70ºF. I now use a chest freezer and temp controller. You need to find such a place if you haven't already.
5. Check out the Beginners forum and learn as much as you can. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/

Welcome aboard and don't be afraid to post additional questions and notes of your progress.

 

[Moose_MI]

I just did my first cider/wine yesterday, so congrats. I did EdWorts Aplfelwein (search the site....very popular thread). EdWorts Aplfelwein calls for 5gal of apple juice and 2lbs of corn sugar (different than granulated). It is supposed to come in around 8.5% of which the 2lbs of corn sugar is responsible for bumping it from 6% that it would be without it. He lets it go 4 weeks and kegs. By 4 weeks your supposed to see it really clear out as the yeast drops out. This is supposed to get better with age so I'm going to let it go 8 weeks and then bottle and wait another few weeks before trying 1...I'm thinking Christmas Eve
Wish I had more experience to tell you what yours is going to do....but I think patience may be the most important part of recipe

 

[renrutle]

Based on some rough calculations and a spec sheet of Musselman's Apple Cider there is ~ 3.7# of sugar in the 4 gallons of cider. With the additional 4# you added you should have an OG (Original Gravity) of ~1.088. If the yeast attenuates well (eats most of the sugar) you could get to a FG (Final Gravity) in the 1.010 range. This OG-FG difference results in an ABV of ~10%. Take these numbers with a grain of salt though.

Oh and as for the paper towels you used I had to do the same with the JOAM today. I'm headed to the LHBS to pick up another airlock and stopper in the morning.

 

[bernardsmith]

Not sure, renrutle, why you think the cider will end up with a gravity of 1.010. I suspect that the bread yeast will successfully ferment out all the sugars in the apple (apples ain't grain and the sugars in apple are all simple and so totally accessible to the yeast). Your assumption would mean that the cider would finish sweet. My guess it will finish dry (at 1.000 or lower).
The problem with bread yeast is that it does not flocculate well and so is unlikely to drop out of suspension. That means you are likely to have a cloudy cider. That may not be an issue. Bread yeast can ferment fruit sugars but it does not highlight their best side - Wine yeasts cost about $1.50 and will highlight flavors in all kinds of subtle ways.
I agree that your cider is going to have a potential alcohol content (ABV or alcohol by volume) of around 11 percent, so it is really more a wine than a cider. I would expect a cider to have an ABV similar to a beer - about 5 or 6 percent and apple juice , without any addition of sugar provides that.)
Depending on the temperature in the room, you can expect the yeast to have done all the heavy lifting in a week or two. You may want to allow the cider to age a few months with that level of alcohol. That aging may also help the yeast fall out of suspension.
If you are wiling to spend about $10 you can buy an essential tool called a hydrometer. This will give you an idea (a good one) when all the sugar has been converted to carbon dioxide and alcohol because it measures the density of the liquid and the less sugar in the cider and the more alcohol the closer the reading will be to 1.000. When there is no sugar left at all , since alcohol is less dense than water the hydrometer will read BELOW 1.000, perhaps as low as .995 but I don't know that bread yeast is that effective.
Your airlock is not really very good for any long time aging. While the yeast is active and producing lots of CO2 (half the weight of the sugar will be transformed into carbon dioxide) you don't really need an airlock but after the yeast has no more sugar to convert you don't want any air to oxidize the cider. A rubber bung and a S shaped tube (a bit like the S pipe under your sink) filled with water will allow gas to leave and prevent air from getting into your cider. Your paper towels are not really an effective barrier against the air.
Better than a paper towel might be a balloon (or a condom). You need to prick either with a pin to allow the CO2 to escape, best is a bung and an airlock - two or three bucks at your local home brew store.

 

[Jigster82]

Would it be ok to age applejack in a oak keg with no ill effects.or do I have to add preservatives?

 

[Paps]

Would it be ok to age applejack in a oak keg with no ill effects.or do I have to add preservatives?

http://mstecker.com/pages/fr2011hhonfciderbarrel-P1000462a.htm

People have used oak barrels for fermented apples for ages,
I don't foreee you having any issues.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[Paps]

[*]What equipment do I absolutely need, next time I try to do this? For instance, I'm happy using this cheap lock substitution, but if it's going to present massive problems, I might get something more professional.
[/LIST]

Thanks for your input!

You "need"........nothing is `needed` that term is very subjective.
However if you want to make a `good` product for a cider only a few things are required.
1-break down and spend the 2 bux to get a proper airlock and bung to fit w/e it is you ferment in. Sure you use paper towels or w/e to keep the house fly out but it wont keep any unwanted bacteria out.
2-break down further and spend 90 cents for a packet of lalvin EC-1118 champagne yeast (this also allows you to add more sugar hitting a higher abv)
3-yeast nutrient blend....this will be pricey...a whopping 5 bux for enough to get you through 10 or so 5 gallon batches.
The hydrometer isn't needed IF ( big fvcking `IF` ) you have PATIENCE.....some of my ciders still show visible airlock activity after the 1 month mark.....if you want to drink it as soon as humanly possible then yes, get a hydrometer, but cider like a fine wine does improve with age.
Hope this helps you out.

 

[podz]

[*]What timeline should I expect here, in terms of fermentation? I have no way of testing the alcohol levels myself, but I'd love to hear some general estimates based on similar setups.

Apple juice is notoriously low in nitrogen, thus causing yeast to take 4-6 times longer to ferment out all the sugars. Healthy fermentation should take max 7 days. Nitrogen-deficient fermentation can take up to 6 weeks, and it makes your house smell like rhino farts. Thus when making cider, it's always important to use yeast nutrient.

All it takes to test the alcohol levels is to buy a hydrometer and a measuring cylinder. Tou take a gravity reading at the beginning and a reading at the end. From there, it's only a simple math calculation.

 

[iwhitt567]

First of all, thank you all for the replies!

You're guessing at everything, really can't help.

I sure am!

First, congrats in jumping in head first to brewing. I think many of us here started with a very basic setup and recipe like you are doing. Don't be discouraged and keep at it even if this batch does not turn out as nice as you would like.
...

I also started a batch of JOAM today using one package of the exact same yeast you showed.

Thanks for the encouraging welcome! I'd love to try a mead next.

...The problem with bread yeast is that it does not flocculate well and so is unlikely to drop out of suspension. That means you are likely to have a cloudy cider. That may not be an issue. Bread yeast can ferment fruit sugars but it does not highlight their best side...
...

Depending on the temperature in the room, you can expect the yeast to have done all the heavy lifting in a week or two. You may want to allow the cider to age a few months with that level of alcohol. That aging may also help the yeast fall out of suspension.

How badly is it going to stay in suspension, do you think? Will it just fall more slowly, or will it barely fall out at all? And will the taste be obvious and awful, or more just an undesirable background flavor? I'm sure I'll find these things out on my own, but I'm just looking for educated guesses for now.

Basically, I don't expect this batch to be fine, refined, or even well-defined. It's cheap. It's a first shot, and I can move up in the future, to bigger and more carefully set-up brews. This one's mostly for getting drunk with friends. I'm thinking of giving it a full two weeks and then just serving it out. We'll see how it goes, though.

 

[Paps]

If you are patient, it can actually turn out allright.
AQ buddy of mine i tried to get into home brewing started out with
1-gallon juice
1-packet bread yeast (the same kind you used)
1-packet of cheap raisins with no preservatives (as a yeast nutrient)

i did give him an airlock and he let it sit in primary for a month before putting it in his fridge and starting to drink it. Eventually it did clear out but imho you can tell the difference in flavor from using the bread yeast. Bread yeast isn't `horrible` but just not as good as it could be with a different yeast. I'd compare it to generic versions of namebrand products, sure it tastes `kinda` like the namebrand but allways `off` at least slightly and sometimes vastly.

 

[iwhitt567]

1-packet of cheap raisins with no preservatives (as a yeast nutrient)

So THAT'S why I keep seeing raisins in recipes.

As a general rule, is one of those tiny raisins boxes enough for a batch this size?

 

[podz]

So THAT'S why I keep seeing raisins in recipes.

As a general rule, is one of those tiny raisins boxes enough for a batch this size?

Raisins certainly do work as a nutrient, but I *really* don't like the tannins that they add - it changes the flavour a lot. DAP is pretty much neutral.

 

[Paps]

So THAT'S why I keep seeing raisins in recipes.

As a general rule, is one of those tiny raisins boxes enough for a batch this size?

He only made a 1 gallon batch, so i don't know how well it would do in a 5 gallon one.

Even though rasins are cheap, the powdered yeast nutrient per batch is cheaper and youll not have to rack off of it like you would rasins.

 

[Jigster82]

Thanks paps I appreciate the info