Muntons Connosiuer IPA Bitter

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kwaidonjin

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I bought a Muntons IPA Bitter yesterday, I am using this with 3.3 lbs Briess liquid pilsen light malt extract. I have Safale -05 yeast I will use. I will throw the original yeast in when I boil the light malt extract so it will act as a yeast nutrient...

My question is: is this considered a heavier beer? Should it be left in fermenter for a longer period(say 3 weeks) or racked to secondary glass carboy for a period of time... Thanks, all responses greatly appreciated.
 
There's no correct or incorrect answer to your question, really. Unless someone advises you to boil your laundry in the wort to clean it while you're making beer to save time :D

Racking to secondary is largely considered unnecessary 'round these parts, unless you're adding fresh fruit, oak, or some other additive you don't want with the yeast cake.

If this were my beer, I'd leave it in primary until bottling or kegging. Not only because I'm lazy, but because it yields great results.

Good luck!
 
I'm not familiar with the kit. What is the OG? All beer will improve with a secondary. Many people here don't think it improves enough for the effort. Ale yeast are pretty vigourous and will reduce almost any sugar liquid to done in about the same time. When the head falls back into the beer, and the bubbling is drastically reduced, move it to a secondary if you want. With an IPA, add some dry hops when you do. Even if they are not in the recipe. Whole leaf cascade for an American IPA, or whole leaf fuggles or goldings or bramling cross for a British.
 
All beer will improve with a secondary.


This is true, but it is because the brewer gives the beer more time to do its thing, not because they moved it to another fermenter. There are some specific times when you might want to do a secondary (e.g. dry hopping, adding fruit, etc), but most times you can just leave the beer in the primary, just for longer.
 
I bought a Muntons IPA Bitter yesterday, I am using this with 3.3 lbs Briess liquid pilsen light malt extract. I have Safale -05 yeast I will use. I will throw the original yeast in when I boil the light malt extract so it will act as a yeast nutrient...

My question is: is this considered a heavier beer? Should it be left in fermenter for a longer period(say 3 weeks) or racked to secondary glass carboy for a period of time... Thanks, all responses greatly appreciated.

I would say that 3 weeks is the absolute minimum you want to leave this beer in the fermenter.
 
There's no correct or incorrect answer to your question, really. Unless someone advises you to boil your laundry in the wort to clean it while you're making beer to save time :D

Racking to secondary is largely considered unnecessary 'round these parts, unless you're adding fresh fruit, oak, or some other additive you don't want with the yeast cake.

If this were my beer, I'd leave it in primary until bottling or kegging. Not only because I'm lazy, but because it yields great results.

Good luck!

I guess I will leave it for atleast 3 weeks in primary and then bottle.. I just didn't know if the IPA was a heavier beer, What does the Bitter mean(IPA Bitter)?
 
I'm not familiar with the kit. What is the OG? All beer will improve with a secondary. Many people here don't think it improves enough for the effort. Ale yeast are pretty vigourous and will reduce almost any sugar liquid to done in about the same time. When the head falls back into the beer, and the bubbling is drastically reduced, move it to a secondary if you want. With an IPA, add some dry hops when you do. Even if they are not in the recipe. Whole leaf cascade for an American IPA, or whole leaf fuggles or goldings or bramling cross for a British.

So you just dump the hops into the secondary fermenter? How much? I have only used the hopped malt kits.
 
Yes, just get an ounce of whole leaf hops, stick them in the fermenter, then rack your beer in. If you like IPAs, you will love the effect this has on your beer.
 
I have never tried an IPA, But I am pretty geeked to try... Just have to get the muntons canadian out of my fermenter, almost 2 weeks on that.
 
Also, I have been using steam distilled drinking water from walmart for my batches(except 1 I used tap water, never again) Would I be better Off using bottled spring water? Also, still wondering what the bitter means on my IPA Bitter......... Thanks
 
A bitter is a beer style, and IPA is a beer style. An IPA Bitter is marketing gobblygook. Most likely you made an IPA, the bitter part might be because you used English hops. Hard to tell.

Distilled water is totally devoid of minerals. Yeast need minerals. Many flavors come from mineral content. Spring water has minerals and is actually a more neutral additive (will change things less) than distilled water.
 
I use Safale-05 a lot with my Ales. I really like how it attenuates and flocculates.

I keep my fermentation chamber right at 70. The beer gets up to around 72 when it's really doing it's thing, but that's only for a day or two. Then it settles back down and temps stay at 70. I've never noticed any off flavors or inconsistencies doing it this way.

The fermentis website says safale 05's range is 59-75 degF.

http://www.fermentis.com/FO/pdf/HB/EN/Safale_US-05_HB.pdf
 
I've made that kit several times. It was the first beer I ever brewed and I've made it again because my wife really loves it. With that said, if you're an IPA guy you will be a little disappointed. It's not bitter like an IPA, it's definitely more like a standard bitter or basic Pale Ale. I've always done it with 2 week primary and then 2 weeks secondary dryhopped with 2oz amarillo. The last batch I made I only dryhopped for 1 week with 1oz Cascade. I wanted something light and easy drinking for when my In-laws came into town since they aren't really craft beer drinkers. They loved it and the keg was gone after the second night :tank:
 
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