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bigfellow2k

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hello everybody. Just a question. is it ok if the room temperature never reach 70. it is higher like 80 to 80F. is this ok for the MB?
thanks
 

MCH

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hello everybody. Just a question. is it ok if the room temperature never reach 70. it is higher like 80 to 80F. is this ok for the MB?
thanks

Put a wet T-shirt over the MRB fermentor but be careful not to cover up the top. Keep the T-shirt wet and it may drop the temp enough. I keep our house at 75, didn't use the T-shirt method and both my batches came out fine.
 

Revvy

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hello everybody. Just a question. is it ok if the room temperature never reach 70. it is higher like 80 to 80F. is this ok for the MB?
thanks
+1 on what MCH said...I cool my mr beer fermenter in my chillchest right along side my other fermenters.



Here's what I do, since the MR Beer isn't as air tight as a regular fermenter.

First I have a spray bottle of sanitizer handy...I thoroughly spray the spigot area with more sanitizer, and soak a plastic baggy and a couple of small rubberbands in sanitizer...I then wrap and seal the spigot with the baggie and the rubberbands.

I use an upended bowl (but a couple bricks would work) set inside my chill chest to keep the mr beer off the bottom of the bath, since the bath is actually higher than the mr beer...I use a bowl that lets the water come up less than halfway up the side of the mr beer.

I spray the outside of the mr beer with sanitizer.

Before putting it in the water I take a dry t-shirt and put it over the keg, making sure that the neck keeps the lid of the mr beer open...this is kinda tricky to manage with a full mr beer, so have a helper.

I then put the fermenter on the bowl in the water bath and let the ends of the shirk sit in the water, like a skirt around the bowl....

I also put sanitizer in my water bath...

With this setup and frozen ice bottles you can get your fermenter as cold as you need it...I got it once down to the high 50's. If I had added more icebottles and a fan I could have lagered...
 
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No I was saying the XLDME is a very good foundation dry malt to use for anything...It is kinda like chicken, or tofu for vegetarians...It can take a lot of flavors (marinades for chicken and tofu & Steeping grains in the case of DME) without necessarily imparting any flavors of it's own.
Exactly. This is what I want to start with. I think my previous post came out wrong.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Another quick question.


Mr. Beer's instructions do not include a reboil after their malt extracts are added to the water (a la howtobrew.com.

If I sub the Booster with 1 lb of the dried malt extract, do I need to add the reboil?
 

Revvy

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Another quick question.


Mr. Beer's instructions do not include a reboil after their malt extracts are added to the water (a la howtobrew.com.

If I sub the Booster with 1 lb of the dried malt extract, do I need to add the reboil?
You should either boil or pasteurize anything going into your beer for 15 minutes.
 

7Enigma

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Another quick question.


Mr. Beer's instructions do not include a reboil after their malt extracts are added to the water (a la howtobrew.com.

If I sub the Booster with 1 lb of the dried malt extract, do I need to add the reboil?
Not really. Many people do late extract addition where the malt is added in the last couple of minutes or even at flame out. The trick is to be careful with the container/bag so you don't introduce contaminants (the extract itself should be relatively sterile). For dry extract you should spray the outside of the bag where you will cut with some sanitizer, and for liquid malt extract you should do the same to the lip of the container.
 

bigfellow2k

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Thanks for the response. that was fast. so the cooler the better for the beer.

thanks
 

Sirgatti

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Quick noob question:

Good or Bad idea: Set Mr. Beer above an A/C vent so that it will stay cool.

Or would the fluctuating temp do more harm than good?

edit: Nevermind, I just read that it has to be a constant temp.
 
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I just bought a MrBeer kit. It is NIB but the only ingredients in it is the can of West Coast Pale Ale and the yeast. It is somewhat old the keg is the old style with the separate airlock. The can is somewhat deformed (top and bottom slightly "Puffed") Is it still usable, or should I trash it? I hate to waste it, but don't want to wait for bad beer. I have been thinking about ordering another kit and using both cans in one batch.
 

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I just bought a MrBeer kit. It is NIB but the only ingredients in it is the can of West Coast Pale Ale and the yeast. It is somewhat old the keg is the old style with the separate airlock. The can is somewhat deformed (top and bottom slightly "Puffed") Is it still usable, or should I trash it? I hate to waste it, but don't want to wait for bad beer. I have been thinking about ordering another kit and using both cans in one batch.
I wouldn't use it if it is "puffed" canned goods are canned goods, regardless if it is malt extract or canned peas...if it is deformed it is spoiled.

Either go to http://www.mrbeer.com/ and order an ingredient kit (they may even be having a sale), or take a 5 gallon recipe from here an half it to 2.5 gallons, go to a homebrew shop and brew it...

It is cool that you have an old one with an airlock though!

Here's a couple of my 2.5 gallon scaled recipe from my 5 gallon batches.

Rogue Dead Guy Clone

Grain Bill
4 lbs. Xtra Light Dme.
6.5 ounces Munich Malt
6.5 ounces of Belgian Caramunich
3.5 ounce of Crystal 40L


Steep the grains (either steep 1.25 gallons and top off in fermenter to 2.5 gallons or steep in 3 gallons steep at 165 deg for 30 minutes. “Sparge” (rinse grainbag but don't squeeze)with quart of warm water.

Add DME. Bring to boil.

Boil & Hops
.75 oz Perle 5.7 % at 60 min.
.25 oz. Perle 5.7% at 30 min.
1/8th oz. Perle 5.7% at 5 min.
1/8th oz Sterling 6.0% at 5 min.

Chill to 70 to 75 degrees. Add water to fermenter to target O.G. (1.062) or 5 gallons.

Pitch Wyyeast 1338 European Ale, pacman (if available) or more commonly Safale US-05

My House Amber Ale (tastes like Bell's Amber, but darker in color)

3 lbs. Amber Dme.
3/4 lbs. Munton’s Crystal 60l (steep following above advice for deadguy clone.)

1.0 oz Cascade 5.9 % at 60 min.
.5 oz. Cascade 5.9% at flameout.

Chill to 70 to 75 degrees. Add water to fermenter to target O.G. (1.062) or 5 gallons.

Pitch with US 05 (w/ hydration.)

If anyone wants I can post the allgrain recipes as well.
 
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Thanks Revvy, That is what I figured about the can. I may closet the MrBeer and start out with 5 gal batches anyway. I have everything except a Stainless Stock Pot to go that route. Just figured the MrBeer would be a fast way to get some brew going.

Off topic but, does the Stock Pot have to be stainless or could I use an aluminum pot till I can buy a stainless?

Again Thanks,
Ron
 

comp

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Thanks Revvy, That is what I figured about the can. I may closet the MrBeer and start out with 5 gal batches anyway. I have everything except a Stainless Stock Pot to go that route. Just figured the MrBeer would be a fast way to get some brew going.

Off topic but, does the Stock Pot have to be stainless or could I use an aluminum pot till I can buy a stainless?

Again Thanks,
Ron
i have read that many use alum.
 

Revvy

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Thanks Revvy, That is what I figured about the can. I may closet the MrBeer and start out with 5 gal batches anyway. I have everything except a Stainless Stock Pot to go that route. Just figured the MrBeer would be a fast way to get some brew going.

Off topic but, does the Stock Pot have to be stainless or could I use an aluminum pot till I can buy a stainless?

Again Thanks,
Ron
Aluminum is fine.

But why wait? If you want to get some brew going do one of the recipes I posted, that way you can have your first batch going while you accumulate the gear for 5 gallon batches...
 
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Thanks, I found the Aluminum/Stainless answer in the Noobs thread just after I asked. Yeah that was/is the plan with the MrBeer.
Fantastic bunch here in the Home Brew Forum!
Great help and no attitude.

Very Cool!
Thanks,
Ron
 

Sumo

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Do you have any recipes for your Mr Beer? I have a 5 gal kit however I also own a 3 gallon carboy and would like to brew smaller batches in my Mr Beer.
 

Revvy

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Okay gang....Here are the Mr Beer All grain recipes I brewed. For info on allgrain brewing read the sections in how to brew http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/index.html, the Wiki here on Hbt, and some of the threads on here to understand the procedure.

What you will need.

4-5 gallon brewpot that fits on your stove
The "unmodified" cooler I have showed you on here with the folding steamer and a grain bag. (or you can do a 5 or 10 gallon cooler and put a braid in it like this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=23008&highlight=cheap+easy
Hydrometer (a must)
A couple of good thermometers.
A funnel that fits over the mouth of the Mr Beer fermenter.
A strainer that fits nicely in the funnel.

(There is pictures of my setup here in the thread a few pages back, as well as in my gallery.)

Here's the recipes I did.

(like I said, read how to brew and the wiki and google if there are words you aren't familiar with (like sparge) there is plenty of info on this site and on the web...I'm giving you my recipes, I'm not brewing it for you (unless you are hot and single...and female that is :D )

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com

Recipe: Ordinary Bitter 2.5 gallon

Style: Standard/Ordinary Bitter
TYPE: All Grain


Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 2.50 gal
Boil Size: 3.25 gal
Estimated OG: 1.043 SG
Estimated Color: 6.7 SRM
Estimated IBU: 27.0 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.00 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 81.08 %
0.25 lb Aromatic Malt (26.0 SRM) Grain 6.76 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 6.76 %
0.75 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] (60 min) Hops 23.3 IBU
0.50 oz Goldings, East Kent [4.80 %] (5 min) Hops 3.7 IBU
0.20 lb Brown Sugar, Light (8.0 SRM) Sugar 5.41 %
1 Pkgs Windsor Yeast (Lallemand #-) Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 3.50 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
45 min Mash In Add 4.38 qt of water at 170.5 F 158F


Notes:
------
Dry hop w/ .25 ounce EKG after ferm/rack to secondary.

Preboil gravity 1.032
BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Late Summer Lime
Brewer: Michael
Style: Cream Ale
TYPE: All Grain


Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 2.50 gal
Boil Size: 3.01 gal
Estimated OG: 1.043 SG
Estimated Color: 4.3 SRM
Estimated IBU: 18.1 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 75.00 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 12.50 %
0.25 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 6.25 %
0.25 lb Corn, Flaked (1.3 SRM) Grain 6.25 %
0.25 oz Pearle [8.00 %] (60 min) Hops 15.6 IBU
0.50 oz Argentine Cascade [3.20 %] (5 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
6.75 oz Rose Key Lime Marmalade (Boil 2.0 min) Misc
12.00 gm Lime zest (Boil 5.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs European Ale (Wyeast Labs #1338) Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 4.00 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 5.00 qt of water at 165.9 F 154
BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Small Batch Centenial Blonde
Brewer: Michael
Style: Blonde Ale
TYPE: All Grain


Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 2.50 gal
Boil Size: 2.86 gal
Estimated OG: 1.047 SG
Estimated Color: 4.2 SRM
Estimated IBU: 20.9 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 79.91 %
0.38 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 8.68 %
0.25 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 5.71 %
0.25 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 5.71 %
0.13 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (55 min) Hops 9.0 IBU
0.13 oz Centennial [9.50 %] (35 min) Hops 7.6 IBU
0.13 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 3.2 IBU
0.13 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (5 min) Hops 1.1 IBU


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 4.38 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
75 min Mash In Add 5.48 qt of water at 161.4 F 150.0 F


Notes:
------
Pre-boil OG is 1.042
Brewer: Michael
Style: Brown Porter
TYPE: All Grain


Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 2.50 gal
Boil Size: 2.93 gal
Estimated OG: 1.071 SG
Estimated Color: 31.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 7.3 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 %
Boil Time: 75 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
4.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 60.33 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 15.08 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 30L (30.0 SRM) Grain 7.54 %
0.50 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 7.54 %
0.50 lb Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 7.54 %
0.25 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] (60 min) Hops 6.3 IBU
0.50 oz Fuggles [4.00 %] (2 min) Hops 1.1 IBU
0.50 cup Malto-Dextrine (Boil 5.0 min) Misc
0.13 lb Milk Sugar (Lactose) (0.0 SRM) Sugar 1.96 %


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 6.50 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Full Body, Batch Sparge
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
45 min Mash In Add 8.13 qt of water at 170.5 F 158
Like I have said throughout this thread you can make GREAT beer with your Mr Beer fermenter (not necessarily with the prehopped ingredients) there is no reason why the little brown jug can't be used, even after you have made a step up to 5 gallon batches. It is great to test recipes...to make batches where you might not want 2 cases of something...Or to be able to do real by golly full volume All Grain recipes on a stovetop.

Also none of these recipe cost me over 20 bucks to do...most cost be between 10 and 15 depending on whether or not I had the hops and yeast on hand...but most of the grain bills for these recipes were about $9.00..... that is WAAAY cheaper than any of the mr beer kits.

You can use beersmith or any recipe software to scale any recipe down to this size...Extract, Partial Mash, or as you can see, even all grain.

Have Fun!!!

:mug:
 

comp

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Do you have any recipes for your Mr Beer? I have a 5 gal kit however I also own a 3 gallon carboy and would like to brew smaller batches in my Mr Beer.
i didn't see the 5 gal kit
 

MCH

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Has anyone ever used their Mr. Beer for a refridgerated Apfelwien dispenser???:D

I think that's my next plan.
 

Antifreze

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Ugh.... so for some reason I screwed up my last batch that I did on sunday (2 days ago). It was the Defibrillator Doppelbock and it called for 1/2 cup of honey. I added 1 whole cup of honey without thinking.

And now that I am thinking... I dont think I added enough yeast. I bought a bag of dry yeast from the homebrewing store. I measured what comes with Mr. Beer and it is ~3/4 tsp of yeast. I think I only put in 1/4 tsp of yeast (forgot to put 2 more 1/4 tsp in)....

... Can I pitch another 1/2 tsp of yeast in there right now? I do have some krausion on top, and it definitely smells like its brewing, but I want a full beer.

Anyone able to help? (yes I know that I screwed up)
 
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Ugh.... so for some reason I screwed up my last batch that I did on sunday (2 days ago). It was the Defibrillator Doppelbock and it called for 1/2 cup of honey. I added 1 whole cup of honey without thinking.

I'm a complete n00b but my guess is that you're fine with the honey; your beer will just be a little stronger and may need a little extra time to ferment.
 

tumbleweed14

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My brewing partner started with Mr Beer, then gave it up for four years. Now he is using his brief experience to help with our first batch in a 5 gal carboy.
 

ifishsum

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Got a Mr. Beer 2 weeks ago to try my hand at brewing. I already want to upgrade to a 5 gal kit but I think I'll work with this for a few months anyway.

I just bottled my first batch tonight, the WCPA w/booster that came with the kit. It was in the fermenter for 9 days and had completely stopped bubbling, had cleared very nicely and it tasted fine but pretty weak for my taste. I wanted to follow the directions exactly the first time (except I'll let it carb and condition longer than 7 days) but that will be the one and only batch I brew with booster. Just not enough character for me.

Anyhoo, after bottling I washed and sanitized the fermenter and started on another wort. This time I used an Oktoberfest Vienna Lager but instead of the booster I used 1lb of Munton's Amber DME. I wasn't sure exactly what to do with it but I mixed the DME first with 1/2 gallon of water, brought it to just below boiling for 10 minutes then added the Mr. Beer hopped LME. The wort looks and smells much richer than the first time, so I have high hopes for this second batch.

I already feel like I've learned a lot from this forum as I've been lurking for the last few days. Good work.
 

Revvy

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Got a Mr. Beer 2 weeks ago to try my hand at brewing. I already want to upgrade to a 5 gal kit but I think I'll work with this for a few months anyway.

I just bottled my first batch tonight, the WCPA w/booster that came with the kit. It was in the fermenter for 9 days and had completely stopped bubbling, had cleared very nicely and it tasted fine but pretty weak for my taste. I wanted to follow the directions exactly the first time (except I'll let it carb and condition longer than 7 days) but that will be the one and only batch I brew with booster. Just not enough character for me.

Anyhoo, after bottling I washed and sanitized the fermenter and started on another wort. This time I used an Oktoberfest Vienna Lager but instead of the booster I used 1lb of Munton's Amber DME. I wasn't sure exactly what to do with it but I mixed the DME first with 1/2 gallon of water, brought it to just below boiling for 10 minutes then added the Mr. Beer hopped LME. The wort looks and smells much richer than the first time, so I have high hopes for this second batch.

I already feel like I've learned a lot from this forum as I've been lurking for the last few days. Good work.
Good job!!!!

Now let batch one sit in the bottles for 3 weeks @ to degrees, and you'll be drinking those when you are bottling these...nothing like drinking your own beer while doing brewing stuff! It's called having a pipeline!
 

Photogiz13

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Sounds like it was a great start. My Kids bought me one a year or so now and I just got a wine making kit. I want to do the real brewing but don't want the big batches any Ideas?
 

Revvy

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Sounds like it was a great start. My Kids bought me one a year or so now and I just got a wine making kit. I want to do the real brewing but don't want the big batches any Ideas?
Start about 5 or 6 pages back and read from here. I talk about doing 2.5 gallon all grain brewing. I show how to do it, and I offer some of my recipes...
 

ifishsum

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Update: My first Mr. Beer batch has been bottled for two weeks, so I chilled a bottle and tried it last night. Carb was good, beer is clear but not much head but has a definite cider taste to it. I assume from what I've seen here that this is likely because of the 2 cups of booster I used with that first batch, plus being still very young. Hopefully they will get somewhat better with age. My ferment temps could have been a little on the high side as well, we had a hot spell towards the tail end of it's time in fermentation.

I don't have room in the fridge to store all the bottles and age them, is the carbing process self-limiting? (assuming no infections or incomplete fermentation) I'm going to have to age them at room temp and don't want bombs...I made this batch exactly per the instructions and used sugar in the bottles for carbing (measured carefully of course).

I also bottled the second batch (see above post #713) and it looked and tasted better, maybe a little fruity but it's way early. And of course I started a third, American Blonde Ale mix with another can LME, plus 2/3 cup of booster and .25 oz of hop pellets (US goldings are what came with the kit). This time I rehydrated the dry yeast before pitching and it was chugging along by morning with a nice krausen. Temps are lower this week so I have high hopes for this one.
 

Revvy

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My first Mr. Beer batch has been bottled for two weeks, so I chilled a bottle and tried it last night. Carb was good, beer is clear but not much head but has a definite cider taste to it. I assume from what I've seen here that this is likely because of the 2 cups of booster I used with that first batch, plus being still very young. Hopefully they will get somewhat better with age. My ferment temps could have been a little on the high side as well, we had a hot spell towards the tail end of it's time in fermentation.

I don't have room in the fridge to store all the bottles and age them, is the carbing process self-limiting? (assuming no infections or incomplete fermentation) I'm going to have to age them at room temp and don't want bombs...I made this batch exactly per the instructions and used sugar in the bottles for carbing (measured carefully of course).

Carbing and bottle conditioning is done at room temperature...Cold temp limit the process...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=558191&postcount=101

Also read this...https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=73254 it's a story about extreme bottle conditioning. :D
 

ifishsum

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Carbing and bottle conditioning is done at room temperature...Cold temp limit the process..
I knew that, what I meant to ask is after the 3 weeks @70 they won't continue to carbonate? (because the priming sugar should be used up?) If I want to condition them longer and don't really have a cooler spot in the house I don't want them blowing up on me....
 

Saccharomyces

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I knew that, what I meant to ask is after the 3 weeks @70 they won't continue to carbonate? (because the priming sugar should be used up?) If I want to condition them longer and don't really have a cooler spot in the house I don't want them blowing up on me....
Once the priming sugar is used up, they won't continue to carbonate, as the yeast run out of gas.

I have a couple of bottles from my first batch still sitting here at room temp.
 

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Revvy just to clarify: using your Blonde Ale All Grain recipe your boil size is 2.86 gal, and your mash is 5.48 qt of water at 161.4 F to bring the mash to 150.0 F for a 75 min rest. When lautering/sparging, after the first runnings have been collected say you collect 5 quarts from the mash, you would then sparge with another approx 6.44 quarts to get the 2.86 boil size?

Last thing (for now) re: the 2 gallon mlt- on your brown porter recipe I notice the lauter was slightly over 2 gallons; how did your cooler handle this amount? Is there a little "wiggle room" I take it between listed capacity on these coolers and actual capacity? Thanks for your insight.
 

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Well I am about to polish off the last of my first by the book brew. I found this site and have been brainstorming ever since! Thanks to all those who lend their experience here!
I read all 73 pages of this thread and made a nice list of things I need to do or watch for on the next batch. I know I'm going to be stepping up to a big boy setup soon but want to play with this a little longer.
I'll be brewing my next batch this weekend.
Thanks to all!
 

USFbulls

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Ok so i've been reading up and down these forums like a madman, and i've arrived at what i feel is my final question before i take "the plunge":

I'm leaning towards a Mr. Beer for starters because i think it's an easy way to check out the hobby and see if i like it. The reason i'm leaning towards it is because i think with smaller batches (2.5 gal if i'm not mistaken?) I feel like i'll be able to drink it all and re-brew twice as often as a 5 gallon setup. I'd like the opportunity to try a bunch of different things.

You guys all talk about stepping up to "big boy" setups, and i'm just wondering:

Is there a quality increase when you raise your quantity to 5 gallon batches? or do you all just like having more of what you brew? Can't I just half the recipies i'd like to try, stop using Mr. Beer pre-packaged recipies, and brew my own 2.5 gallon batches once i'm ready?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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