More Boil Control?

[Weissbier]

Just finished my EBIAB Setup and it works great. Thank you to PJ for the great schematics! The Auber 2352 does an amazing job maintaining mash temp, but I am not thrilled with the quick ramp up and down when in manual mode to maintain a boil. I was watching my meter go from 0 to 600 rpm over and over again.

I was previously running a PSR-25 controller setup and it kept a nice smooth boil but was a pain to maintain mash temps.

If I was to cut the controller into one of the hot leads to the element and run my PID at 100% I could smooth out my boil with the potentiometer. Or does anyone see an issue with this?

Here is the schematic I built my PSR controller from.

 

[jeffmeh]

You should be able to get a consistent boil with the Auber 2352 in manual mode. What do you mean by "ramping up to 600rpm?" Have you checked the PID parameter that controls the frequency of switching?

 

[Weissbier]

Hey Jeff,

When set at 70% in manual mode the element would heat the wort to a heavy boil for approximately 3 seconds then go to a slow boil for approximately 3 seconds then repeat.

Do you know what parameter controls switching and what it is recommended to set too?

From the manual...
4.6 Cycle time “t”
It is the time period (in seconds) that the controller uses to calculate its output. e.g. When t=2, if the controller decides output should be 10%, the heater will be on 0.2 second and off 1.8 seconds for every 2 seconds. Smaller t values result in more precision control. For SSR output, t is set at the minimum (2 seconds). For relay or contactor output, it should be set longer to prevent contacts from wearing out too soon. Normally it is set to 20~ 4 0 seconds.

Could i set the value to 0?

 

[jeffmeh]

From the description, I think 2 is low as you can set it, but I don't have one to play with. Zero doesn't make sense in the context of a cycle time, as it would have to be positive.

70% power at cycle time of 2s should give you 1.4s on, 0.6s off every 2 seconds. It may seem counterintuitive, but setting a lower percent might give you a more consistent boil. Try a lower setting, particularly if at 70% the boil is more vigorous than really necessary when the element is on. There should be some "sweet spot" that you can find through experimentation. I would find the lowest manual setting where a boil is maintained, and see if you are happy with that level of boil. If not, then slowly creep up with the percentage and see what you think.

P.S., some oscillation in the boil vigor is not really a huge deal, as long as it stays boiling.

 

[Weissbier]

From what I am reading the "pulsing" should even out as temps stabilize but that was not the case with a 90 min boil. I am running a keggle wrapped with thermal wrap to maintain mash temps. You can't get much more stable.

I have to be missing something.

 

[jeffmeh]

Check out this thread. It may be worth contacting Auber. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pid-help-please-432195/

 

[Weissbier]

Ok 3 Irish Reds later and here is what I can make of the issue after reading that thread. I did auto tune, but only filled with about 5 gals and did not have my recirculating pump on. That should narrow down the very small mash variances I did notice but we're not a huge deal.

I just powered up and checked my parameters against what Auberins suggests.

At-3. Good
P-300. Mine was at 386
D-37. Mine was at 58
T-2. Mine was at 6 (the obvious issue now)
Sn-21. Good

I will run auto tune again and correct all settings. I'm sure this was the issue.

Thanks for the bloodhound work Jeff!

And a quick iPad pic of the system. I will post more later....

 

[jeffmeh]

I'm glad you found the T setting issue. I would hate for you to get so frustrated that you use those gallows you built over your kettle.

 

[Weissbier]

It is absolutely amazing what this little PID can do, it almost does too much. Thanks again!