Modding the kab4 or 6

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twanger1994

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Hello,
Seems like everyone is going to have to make some type of modification to the KAB 4 or 6.

Some it will be the height of the burner (4.25"). Some it will be the size of the cooking surface. Yet others will have both problems. So im going to try and fix what I can and shed some light for anyone who wants it

I have a banjo burner from NB that is being used in another system
banjoburnerwithstandoff.jpg
banjokeggleinbrackets.jpg

This burner worked great at 4" from the burner with a flat bottom pot. The brackets are to make the cook surface bigger. Once we switched over to the keggle the flame was not as effective. Since the keggle has a domed bottom there was too much heat loss. (I hear others have a height problem too!) Our solution was to turn one of the brackets around to allow the lip of the keggle to sit into the void. Now the bottom the the keggle is about 2" from the burner. Heat then runs up the rounded bottom and raises temp. much faster. Ive never timed it but we have never had to wait on boiling water.

First Mod: Raise the burner. The Four legs are 1/2" round stock bent in a rectangle, welded to the thick wind screen in three places, The top and bottom are on one side, the middle is on the other. I used a dremel with a flexible handle attachment. (used two big metal cutting blades to cut four legs) An angle grinder should work too.
u-bolt.gif

Using u-bolts and a few drilled holes I re-attached the legs to the wind screen.
A Few things I noticed: There are nubs on the burner that could get in the way of the u bolt. I got lucky and was able to squeeze mine in.
Also remember the bottom of the keg is not always going to be level, or your base, so you may have to play with your leg heights if ya got a wobble.

According to bayou classic: The re-engineering of this burner was to optimize the burner with a flat bottom pot. The rounded bottom of a keg is not optimal.
IMAG0352.jpg
DSC04101.jpg


Next I did a test on temp. times and fuel usage.
 
Ok so now that my kegs are cut open I did a quick comparison. Filled each keg with 9 gallons of 87 degree water.

First up the KAB4 with no modification:
DSC04107.jpg
DSC04106.jpg
104degrees@9mins
DSC04108.jpg
DSC04109.jpg
117*@15mins
DSC04110.jpg
DSC04111.jpg
142*@25mins
DSC04114.jpg
DSC04115.jpg
160*@33mins
 
Now for the modified KAB4:
DSC04118.jpg
DSC04119.jpg
117*@8mins
DSC04120.jpg
DSC04121.jpg
142*@13mins
DSC04124.jpg
DSC04125.jpg
160*@16mins

About half the time and half the fuel!!!

DSC04101.jpg
 
My next mod it to weld the angle iron to the top and expand the cooking surface. Hopefully this week... check back soon
 
Thanks. Shipping is a higher price than the u-bolts.

These parts are difficult for me to source, locally. Any help would be appreciated.

Bucks/Montgomery county, PA
 
Thanks. Shipping is a higher price than the u-bolts.

These parts are difficult for me to source, locally. Any help would be appreciated.

Bucks/Montgomery county, PA


Isn't it amazing!!! The box that came was the size of a baseball. Its robbery...
 
I finally finished doing this mod on my burner and what a difference! Before I was getting about 3/4 tank per brew just from the heat waste. Now I'm getting about 3 brews per tank. Boil came way quicker. I was really surprised at the difference.
 
That looks just like what I had in mind, except was going to cut and re-weld the legs so the pot rest was just on top of the burner, like you have it. You raised the burner assembly instead of lowering the pot rest. Great idea. Didn't think the Dremel tool would cut the welds well but see they are only tacked on.

Questions: Do the U bolts allow the legs to turn at all? Was re-welding the wind shield to the legs an option for you? I have some gas welding experience and Oxy/Act torch. Thinking of welding the legs back on instead of bolting them. Any thoughts?
 
I tried a dremel but it wasn't enough, I went through a ton of cut off disc's. Do I went with a regular grinder. U bolts work great, even had a 15 gal pot on there with no problems.
 
I went with the u bolts in case I had to adjust the height again.

SAME REASON HERE.

As for the legs. I have a piece of angle iron that I will notch and bend into a square for a new top and weld 2" square legs in the corners. "I like a sturdy kettle holding my BREW"
 
I may have had a little too much barley wine so help me understand this. The modified burner height is 2"? And this works great? I have mine at around 4" and have they work great but if you've dialed in on a better height themes I need to make some mods.
 
i was just about to start thinking of plans for that, but you just took care of it for me! props to you sir. i will be doing this before my next brew day and possibly adding some sheilding around the pots. there was a crap ton of heat escaping and burning my face from the sides
 
just accomplished the same thing!
got 3.5 gal of strike water heated from 60 to 170 within 15 minutes, wowza.

ended up buying a welder though. didn't want to deal with drilling through metal without a press.
 
I brought my KAB4 to a local welding shop that I drive by every day on the way to work. They modified to my specs for a $20 bill. It truly kicks butt.
DSC_0532-1.jpg

DSC_0530.jpg
 
I brought my KAB4 to a local welding shop that I drive by every day on the way to work. They modified to my specs for a $20 bill. It truly kicks butt.
DSC_0532-1.jpg

DSC_0530.jpg

Sorry for bringing back an old post, but I am going to do some mods to my KAB4 like you did. Are you happy with the results? Is it hard to light? Can you visually still see the flame? Thanks!
 
Sorry for bringing back an old post, but I am going to do some mods to my KAB4 like you did. Are you happy with the results? Is it hard to light? Can you visually still see the flame? Thanks!
I love the burner and how it works. In fact, I brewed a hefe with it just yesterday. You can light the burner with a pot on it. I use butane stick lighters without an issue. You can see the flame although you have to kneel down and look under the pot to do it. One additional comment: with this modification the burner is VERY stingy with propane. The flame only needs to be 1/2" - 3/4" high to maintain a rolling boil of 6+ gallons of wort. I do not know how many batches I get from a tank of propane but the sheer fact that I do not remember the last time I ran out of propane, and I brew often, indicates that a little propane goes a long way with this burner (after it was modified). Good luck!!
 
I love the burner and how it works. In fact, I brewed a hefe with it just yesterday. You can light the burner with a pot on it. I use butane stick lighters without an issue. You can see the flame although you have to kneel down and look under the pot to do it. One additional comment: with this modification the burner is VERY stingy with propane. The flame only needs to be 1/2" - 3/4" high to maintain a rolling boil of 6+ gallons of wort. I do not know how many batches I get from a tank of propane but the sheer fact that I do not remember the last time I ran out of propane, and I brew often, indicates that a little propane goes a long way with this burner (after it was modified). Good luck!!

Great. Thank you! I am looking to have it modified soon. It is one powerful burner and your modifications looked perfect. Thanks again.
 
Hi Twanger1994.


I am about to attempt your modification on my KAB6. However, I am having the hardest time cutting through the tack welds that connect the heat shield to the four legs.

You mentioned that you cut through the tack welds using a Dremel flexible handle attachment and two big metal cutting blades. Could you please specify the make and model number of the metal cutting blades that you used? Were they the Dremel US510 metal cutting disks? If they were, which collet are you using to connect them to the flexible handle attachment?


Thanks in advance to anyone who can assist me.

-Z
 
Hi Twanger1994.


I am about to attempt your modification on my KAB6. However, I am having the hardest time cutting through the tack welds that connect the heat shield to the four legs.

You mentioned that you cut through the tack welds using a Dremel flexible handle attachment and two big metal cutting blades. Could you please specify the make and model number of the metal cutting blades that you used? Were they the Dremel US510 metal cutting disks? If they were, which collet are you using to connect them to the flexible handle attachment?


Thanks in advance to anyone who can assist me.

-Z

I did the same modification on my burner and I just used an angle grinder with a standard metal cutoff wheel. It looks like the Dremel US510 is about the same thing, so you should be good. Regardless of what tool you use, just take it slow and don't plunge quickly. Take several passes shaving off just a little bit at a time.
 
Hi all.

I know this thread is old, but I must share some valuable information concerning the modifications with U-bolts.

If making twanger1994's modification to the Bayou Classic KAB6 with U-bolts, you should make sure that the U-bolts that you are using are steel or stainless steel. They should not be galvanized or coated with any kind of protective coating. Heating such coated U-bolts will release poisonous gases and substances which can harm or kill you.

If it helps anyone, I got my stainless steel 9/16 inch U-bolts from Lowes (lowes.com). The dimensions are:

1/4 inch x 3/4 inch x 2 1/2 inch

The vendor information is:

National Hardware
V2193
N422-583


I bought these U-bolts from Lowes in December 2018. Each was $2.00 or less.


Take care.
-Z
 

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