Mini mash low efficiency

[guinnessface]

Fellas-

I'm having problems getting the results I want from a few mini-mash kits I've purchased. I just brewed a Marzen and Shock Top clone and both yielded low initial hydrometer readings (the first: 1.046 vice 1.054 and the latter 1.036 vice 1.052). For the Marzen, I followed the directions to a tee. Afterward, I called the store and a gentleman suggested that I use 1.5 gallons of water to soak the grains, rather than the 2.5 suggested on the instructions. I tried that for the shock top and not only was the hydrometer reading lower, but it's the color of a brown ale rather than a wit.

I'm at a loss, as I don't know what else to try. One issue may be the ph level. I used bottled spring water for both, but I can't imagine that would be such a big deal. Using less water for the soak and boil seems to make a darker brew, which is the opposite of my desired effect. Can you think of anything that may be causing this? I'm really following the directions to a tee. I had a successful batch of munich lager (which also had a low reading) but these seem destined to be worse.

To make matters worse, the yeast has been very slow to activate. I'm guessing this is because of the low efficiency and possible heat damage from shipping. I had to re-agitate the marzen three times when it finally got started 4 days later. The wit is now in its 48th hour with just the faintest signs of bubbles rising through the airlock. I look forward to ordering more kits, but am getting frustrated at the inconsistant results. How can I set myself up for success? Thanks in advance for your help and I look forward to hearing from you at your convenience.

Pat

 

[yodalegomaster]

I would check the PH, it needs to be 5.2 for the best mashing results. your going to have to add some acid to lower the PH.

 

[Livendadream]

I would calibrate your hydrometer. Make sure it is giving you correct readings. Look at the crush of your grains. I started crushing my own grains and my efficiency went from 65% with (LHBS crush) to 82%(my crush) so my problem was overshooting my OG. If you are using liquid extract it might give you a darker brew, due to caramelization I suppose. I throw mine in the boil at about the last 20 minutes and it has been lighter in color. The best advice I have learned so far was to always make a starter that way you know your yeast is good to go. Hope these tips help. They sure have worked for me, good luck .J

 

[smizak]

Need to know way more about your process.

Most modern malt is highly modified and will readily convert as long as your temp is right. Most efficiency problems are because of lautering and sparging issues, i.e., actually getting the sugars out of your mash and into the wort. Doing a mini-mash without a proper mash tun and manifold will most often result in poor efficiency.

 

[ajf]

Are you doing a full boil, or a partial boil?. If you are doing a partial boil, and adding top-up water after the boil, I would think the most likely explanation for your apparent low gravity is that the top-up water wasn't thoroughly mixed with the wort. It takes a surprising amount of stirring to thoroughly mix the wort with top-up water, and if you take your gravity sample from the top of the wort, it will be low if the mixing was inadequate.
As for the apparent slow start of fermentation, airlock activity is not a reliable indicator, especially if you use a bucket for fermentation. You will only get airlock activity when the generation of CO2 exceeds the leakage plus the reduction in volume caused by cooling.

-a.

 

[wyzazz]

Pictures of your crush? Partial or Full Boil? Calibrated Hydro? How are you mashing?

All of these will help to diagnose your "poor" efficiency.

 

[guinnessface]

Thanks for your help everyone, I think I have some good techniques that'll help me next time. All the best.