Mini Fridge kegerator set up.

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Surly

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Hi

I have been serving my beer using a mini refrigerator and a picnic tap.

I am in the process of finishing a mini refrigerator build. I have converted the fridge so far by moving the freezer coils and the thermostat. The fridge cools down and the CO2 tank and two cornies fit.

I also have the tower and facets to be installed. First things first.

I have a gas manifold with the ability to have my CO2 tank serve three tanks. I only need two set up.

My existing CO2 tank of course has the red hose.

1) Should I just cut that hose and install the manifold and from there serve two keys?

2) The clamps that came with the tower are not your standard worm clamps. Can I just use a pliers to crimp them? Or, should I use worm clamps for both the gas and liquid side?
 
1, yes you can just cut that hose and put the manifold in line, or you could put it at the end of that line and add line to your two kegs.

2. what kind of clamps are they? you can use standard worm clams just be sure to double check all your connections! a leak on the gas side and you have an empty bottle and you are upset that you cant get your beer out, but a leak on the beer side and you have all your beer on the bottom of your kegerator!!! and that could make a groan man cry.

make sure to check for lines before drilling the top of the fridge!
 
1, yes you can just cut that hose and put the manifold in line, or you could put it at the end of that line and add line to your two kegs.

2. what kind of clamps are they? you can use standard worm clams just be sure to double check all your connections! a leak on the gas side and you have an empty bottle and you are upset that you cant get your beer out, but a leak on the beer side and you have all your beer on the bottom of your kegerator!!! and that could make a groan man cry.

make sure to check for lines before drilling the top of the fridge!

1) Thanks....As I am setting up I do want to control the extra tubing that is needed. I, as most with mini kegerators have limited space.

2) I do now know what kind. They are not a worm clamp. I am wondering if I need a special tool to use this type.
 
I have seen people clamp those with pliars... but there is a special tool for crimping those that is more reliable. Personally I would just buy some worm clamps they are pretty cheap and you can be sure they are tight.

Those clamps are very nice if you have the right tool to install them, but I have just found them hard to use without it.
 
I am setting up my two tap kegerator and have found an issue.

I purchased a manifold that will handle three kegs. (It was an upgrade from the company.)

I placed my CO2 tank in the kegerator, placed my manifold where I want it to be. I then cut my red line that is attached to the tank thinking I will then attach the manifolds intake barb and I will then send the other end with the connector to my first keg.

The intake barb on the manifold is 1/4". The three out barbs are 5/16". My red gas hose will fit well on the 5/16th but is loose on the 1/4" intake barb.

Is this standard and all I need to do is tighten the hell out of my worm clamp? Or, will I loose all my CO2?

Thanks
 
I ended up setting it up and I thought I was happy. Went away for a few days and the CO2 tank is empty.

Just got back from town with a fresh five lbs of CO2.

I hooked the tank up to my three barb manifold and tested.

I found that one of the check valves, the one in the middle was leaking. I sprayed with star san and put my ear to the valve. So, I swapped the red hose out and placed it on the end, kept the middle valve closed and I believe no leaks.

Now, I do not want to lose another 5 lbs of gas. As long as I do not turn that bad valve on, I should be ok, right? (I will be replaceing the manifold but would like to use what I have in the meantime.)

Thoughts?
 
Something just like that happened to me, It SUCKS to find your tank empty. BTW My round trip to get Co2 is 1 1/2 hours for a $15.00 refill of a 10 lb bottle. I had a fitting leaking. After spraying it, I knew what it was right away! Can you just tighten the check valve and spray again? You shouldn't have to replace your manifold. Maybe just the check valve? Mine was leaking at the threads and 1/2 a turn fixed it.

Since then, Im allways looking at the tank pressure and often spray all of my connections. Just to be safe!!! At least you can "SEE" it leaking.

When I keg, After filling the keg and adding pressure, I spray the lid and both posts. I lost Co2 from a poppet leaking. I also lost my beer from the poppet leaking. Hence, I spray EVERYTHING LOL
 
Something just like that happened to me, It SUCKS to find your tank empty. BTW My round trip to get Co2 is 1 1/2 hours for a $15.00 refill of a 10 lb bottle. I had a fitting leaking. After spraying it, I knew what it was right away! Can you just tighten the check valve and spray again? You shouldn't have to replace your manifold. Maybe just the check valve? Mine was leaking at the threads and 1/2 a turn fixed it.

Since then, Im allways looking at the tank pressure and often spray all of my connections. Just to be safe!!! At least you can "SEE" it leaking.

When I keg, After filling the keg and adding pressure, I spray the lid and both posts. I lost Co2 from a poppet leaking. I also lost my beer from the poppet leaking. Hence, I spray EVERYTHING LOL

Thanks - Although not necessarily new to kegging, I am to leaks. LOL
 
The last thing I need to do to complete this mini refrigerator conversion is to insulate the two tap tower.

I decided to add two copper tubes that hold the beer lines in my tower for cooling purposes. Everything is working great.

I picked up a large can of, "Great Stuff- Big Gap Filler". What to people use to prevent the stuff from flowing into the refrigerator? I was thinking I may use some sort of putty.

Is it best to fill the tower in stages so it dries before adding more foam? That is kinda difficult as the Great Stuff tends to freeze up in the can and become useless. Is it ok to spray it when the unit is cool, like 45F?

Thanks for any ideas.
 
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