Milling to powder

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TimelessCynic

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I mill to the smallest setting. I have a cereal killer and it shows 0.025"

I get a lot of powder, some small chunks and the husks are remarkably mostly intact.

I'm trying to get better efficiencies by milling this fine.

I never get a stuck sparge.

Are there any other problems with milling in this fashion I should know about.

Thank you.


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BAM!!! 90% of home brewers don't check PH. OP grain is cheap, don't nickle and dime your beer. I am guilty of all of this at one point or another.

Can you explain though how a fine crush (close to flour) would increase the astringency compare to one with the same pH strike/sparge water and a coarser crush?
 
Can you explain though how a fine crush (close to flour) would increase the astringency compare to one with the same pH strike/sparge water and a coarser crush?

I didn't say anything about astringency. I said check the PH and grain is cheap. The OP may have a good reason to want better efficiency; but for me, I am very happy getting 75% and adding a few extra lbs to the grain bill. IMHO
 
1ST What are you currently getting for efficiencies?
2ND What are you trying for.
3RD What are your brewing methods:

Crush alone does not increase efficiency method, temp, ph, alkalinity, sparging, grain type, can all factor into your percentage.
With good control, and knowledge the average HB should be able to achieve 80%-85% on most types. High gravity beers if I hit 75%-80% I consider it a great brew day although I will run the grain through for a small beer after (waste not the goodness)
 
Can you explain though how a fine crush (close to flour) would increase the astringency compare to one with the same pH strike/sparge water and a coarser crush?

You can get extra astringency because the fine crush exposes more edge of the hulls. This is highly dependent upon the pH. Typically a mash at 6.0 and higher will begin extracting some tannins from the hulls. With a very fine crush extraction to noticeable levels may begin at 5.8.

The key is also noticeable levels. With some beers you may desire a bit of astringency.
 
I batch sparge and I used to sparge twice. In order to save time I now sparge only once. Not sure if I'm using the terminology correctly. What I mean is rinse my grains after draining my mash tun with 1 batch of water not two like I used to do.

With beers of gravities of less than 1.050 I would typically achieve a brewhouse efficiency of 80% with my old method. Now it is closer to 70%

On higher gravity beers and especially high gravity beers my brewhouse efficiency is around 65% when it used to be 75%

In reality I just want my numbers to look good and I don't want to add pounds and pounds of extra grain because I seem to get diminishing returns with the extra grain I add. I am not nickel and dime'ing it. I buy my grain and hops at a great price and have vast quantities on hand. Its awkward for me to dispose grains so the less the better. That being said I like shorter brew days so sometimes a single sparge is all i can afford time wise.

I'm making a bock this morning, a 1.067 The grains I milled last night inspired me to make this post. I will double sparge again to re confirm my efficiency assumptions.

I've never had astringency ive noticed before. And my first 25 or so batches last year were all done with a crappy corona style baking grain mill that shredded the husks a lot more. I have tested my PH before and I was in range both times so stopped doing it.

Thanks for the input everyone. I appreciate it.

I don't know if this picture shows enough detail but that's my crush. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1395582431.264684.jpg


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It looks OK to me but those hulls are not mostly intact. You'd benefit from moistening your grain 10 minutes before milling.


An interesting suggestion i have never heard of before. I will keep it in mind. How do you moisten the grains?


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