MFL co2 connections

[msal]

Hi all,

I had purchased an MFL connector for my taprite regular so I could hook up my co2 lines to a blichmann beer gun. Part: http://www.homebrewing.org/Adapter-14-mfl-x-14-MPT-rht-brass_p_2704.html

When I tried hooking my co2 line up to it via a 1/4" swivel nut, I found that the nipple was not long enough on the male side. Basically, the swivel nut sits screws all the way on and runs up against the back, and doesn't hold gas. Has anyone encountered this? It sounds like I need something like this to slightly extend the nipple:
https://www.midwestsupplies.com/swivel-nut-gasket-4-pack

Now that I've encountered this, I'm worried I'll also have issues hooking up my swivel nuts to my co2 bulkhead that I just purchased for my keezer. Here is the bulkhead:
http://www.homebrewing.org/14-MFL-Bulkhead-Adaptor-4-Long_p_3373.html

I'm sure the male ends will be long enough on the bulkhead, but now I'm worried I'll have a leaky connection. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Matt

 

[day_trippr]

Did you include a nylon flare gasket?

There has to be a gasket, the threads do zero wrt sealing and are only there to pull the faces of the fittings together to squeeze the gasket gas tight.
In some cases a fitting may have a captive gasket (eg: CMB ball lock QDs) but most brass and stainless fittings require a separable gasket.

I have a bunch of 1/4" MFL-MFL bulkheads in use and have zero problems with them. But, they all have gaskets

Cheers!

[edit] Just now clicked on your links. Yes, you need the gasket

 

[msal]

Did you include a nylon flare gasket?

There has to be a gasket, the threads do zero wrt sealing and are only there to pull the faces of the fittings together to squeeze the gasket gas tight.
In some cases a fitting may have a captive gasket (eg: CMB ball lock QDs) but most brass and stainless fittings require a separable gasket.

I have a bunch of 1/4" MFL-MFL bulkheads in use and have zero problems with them. But, they all have gaskets

Cheers!

[edit] Just now clicked on your links. Yes, you need the gasket

Ah ok, that makes sense. Thanks for the reply! I have ball lock disconnects which is what had made me think I didn't need gaskets, I knew there was a tip on the end but didn't put 2 and 2 together. Looks like I'll be ordering a few of those gaskets then. Will the ones I included a link to work fine for 5/16" connectors? They mention 1/4" flare fittings...

Mid-reply, I decided to run down and look at my new distributor, which came with MFL swivel nuts. The 5/16" MFL swivel nuts came screwed on, so I thought "Hey maybe the gaskets are already on those that I can use". Looks like the gaskets are there. However, I expected the gaskets to come out! The connectors that came on my distributor aren't swivel (or I haven't forced them enough lol), and have the gasket built in (I didn't even know these existed TBH).

Is there a difference between dropping a gasket in a swivel nut and using a non-swivel nut that has a built in gasket? Are these locked nuts out-of-the-ordinary? I've never come across them before, but I'm still new to all of this.

Initially I figured these non-swivel nuts will be much less useful since I can't spin them... However, as long as one end spins (in my case the end connecting to the keg) it shouldn't really matter I guess, I'll just undo the swivel end first.

I was hoping to use these while I wait for the gaskets to arrive. Although, I don't think I want to use these non-swivel nuts to hook up to the bulkhead, so I'm probably better off just waiting and saving these locked ones for the distributor.

Thanks again!

 

[Drk93TT]

I have one of those co2 bulkheads with no gasket on either end and they were leaking like crazy until tightened a ton. They currently don't leak at all with no gaskets after much frustration lol...

However I placed an order for gaskets this morning as I didn't know they should be there! I plan be disassembling the bulkhead and installing the nylon flare gaskets I purchased from CHI company online.

 

[msal]

I have one of those co2 bulkheads with no gasket on either end and they were leaking like crazy until tightened a ton. They currently don't leak at all with no gaskets after much frustration lol...

However I placed an order for gaskets this morning as I didn't know they should be there! I plan be disassembling the bulkhead and installing the nylon flare gaskets I purchased from CHI company online.

Glad I'm not the only one who wasn't aware of this! Haha.

I have another similar question to add on to my previous questions. I am starting to hook things up now that my first replacement faucet arrived (yay!). I was about to connect my 1/4" MFL swivel nut to my 1/4" MFL tailpiece... should I have a gasket here as well?

If that's the case I can't hook anything up until I get my hands on some gaskets .

 

[IslandLizard]

Rule of thumb:
There should be a ("fisheye") gasket between all metal to metal MFL surfaces.

The male (MFL) ends of CBM Quick Disconnects (QDs) already have an integrated plastic tippy, which is the gasket, so you won't need to add another fisheye gasket on those.

You can't really remove the gaskets once they're set.

I had one that ended up getting cockeyed. Had a heck of a time prying it out of the flare nut.

 

[msal]

Rule of thumb:
There should be a ("fisheye") gasket between all metal to metal MFL surfaces.

The male (MFL) ends of CBM Quick Disconnects (QDs) already have an integrated plastic tippy, which is the gasket, so you won't need to add another fisheye gasket on those.

You can't really remove the gaskets once they're set.

I had one that ended up getting cockeyed. Had a heck of a time prying it out of the flare nut.

Alright, cool. Thanks! I went ahead and ordered a 24 pack of 1/4" gaskets. Is it safe to assume that these gaskets will work with both 1/4" and 5/16" swivel nuts?

 

[IslandLizard]

Alright, cool. Thanks! I went ahead and ordered a 24 pack of 1/4" gaskets. Is it safe to assume that these gaskets will work with both 1/4" and 5/16" swivel nuts?

Sure they will. The nuts are all the same, 1/4" MFL. The barbed stems are either 1/4" or 5/16".

Just make sure after dropping the fisheye in that it sits flat in the bottom of the nut.

Put clamps on your lines, over the barbs. Although both work fine, I prefer the single eared oetiker clamps over the worm clamps. You'll need a pair of pincer pliers to crimp the oetiker ears. Already in your tool box or Harbor Freight.

BTW, most LHBSs that sell kegging equipment should have those fisheye gaskets and other kegging sundries. Their prices are usually out of touch when it comes to faucets and that stuff, though. 3 years ago I ordered a load of CO2 and other dispensing supplies like faucets, shanks, distributors, tubing, connectors, etc. from RiteBrew.com.

 

[msal]

Sure they will. The nuts are all the same, 1/4" MFL. The barbed stems are either 1/4" or 5/16".

Just make sure after dropping the fisheye in that it sits flat in the bottom of the nut.

Put clamps on your lines, over the barbs. Although both work fine, I prefer the single eared oetiker clamps over the worm clamps. You'll need a pair of pincer pliers to crimp the oetiker ears. Already in your tool box or Harbor Freight.

BTW, most LHBSs that sell kegging equipment should have those fisheye gaskets and other kegging sundries. Their prices are usually out of touch when it comes to faucets and that stuff, though. 3 years ago I ordered a load of CO2 and other dispensing supplies like faucets, shanks, distributors, tubing, connectors, etc. from RiteBrew.com.

Ok, great. That 25 pack should last me some time then. I've got clamps on all my barbs so far. I'm using worm clamps for now since I had some on hand but I might invest in some pincer pliers eventually. I mostly order online, I don't have a LHBS in the area sadly.

I hooked everything up tentatively, but didn't run any beer through it. Waiting on the gaskets. I'll have to post some pictures on here of the the whole keezer build process I went through soon. Thanks again for the help!

 

[IslandLizard]

Ok, great. That 25 pack should last me some time then. I've got clamps on all my barbs so far. I'm using worm clamps for now since I had some on hand but I might invest in some pincer pliers eventually. I mostly order online, I don't have a LHBS in the area sadly.

I hooked everything up tentatively, but didn't run any beer through it. Waiting on the gaskets. I'll have to post some pictures on here of the the whole keezer build process I went through soon. Thanks again for the help!

Of course you can dispense some beer while waiting for your fisheyes. Just shut the CO2 off right after. Even without CO2 hooked up continuously, a keg with a gallon headspace at 20 psi (a bit higher to compensate) can dispense at least another gallon. Then recharge, and you can double the dispensed amount, it will kick soon after.

Always check and be on the watch out for leaks. Open the tank valve all the way, or shut all the way. Never operate it in between, it may not seal on the valve stem.

Nothing wrong with using worm clamps. I like the copper crimp rings (think PEX) the best of all, because they're smooth and low profile. But the tool and crimp arbor needed are cost prohibitive. Even the rings are pricey.
Curious to see your keezer build!

 

[msal]

Of course you can dispense some beer while waiting for your fisheyes. Just shut the CO2 off right after. Even without CO2 hooked up continuously, a keg with a gallon headspace at 20 psi (a bit higher to compensate) can dispense at least another gallon. Then recharge, and you can double the dispensed amount, it will kick soon after.

Always check and be on the watch out for leaks. Open the tank valve all the way, or shut all the way. Never operate it in between, it may not seal on the valve stem.

Nothing wrong with using worm clamps. I like the copper crimp rings (think PEX) the best of all, because they're smooth and low profile. But the tool and crimp arbor needed are cost prohibitive. Even the rings are pricey.
Curious to see your keezer build!

Yep, I can get beer out of it need be. I've had some line balancing issues and I'm always changing things so I'm waiting to get it all hooked up so I have a stable base.

Eh, what the heck - I've attached a couple of pictures. Not done yet of course. I'm going to drill more tap holes later as I need them, it will be some time though. I just recently added blue foam board insulation, silicone caulk, and covered it all in foil tape.

 

[IslandLizard]

Very nice and clean build! Love the natural oak collar. Not mitering the joints surely has it's charm.

Are you moving the tank out of there to get another keg in?

Easy to drill a small hole in the back or side of the keezer. Put a gas valve at the end of the line to be able to disconnect the tank when need be, without depressurizing the kegs. Instead, you could just shut off all the valves on the gas manifold, but you'll end up with the gas hose full of air that way. Then just bleed it when reconnecting the tank.

 

[msal]

Very nice and clean build! Love the natural oak collar. Not mitering the joints surely has it's charm.

Are you moving the tank out of there to get another keg in?

Easy to drill a small hole in the back or side of the keezer. Put a gas valve at the end of the line to be able to disconnect the tank when need be, without depressurizing the kegs. Instead, you could just shut off all the valves on the gas manifold, but you'll end up with the gas hose full of air that way. Then just bleed it when reconnecting the tank.

Thanks!! Nice, I hadn't thought about putting a shutoff at the bulkhead. You can actually see the CO2 bulkhead in the picture without insulation. I took out the hardware while I was insulating, I just need to drill the hole the rest of the way through. I have a 4-way manifold that I haven't hooked up yet. The main reason I went with the CO2 bulkhead is so that I can either use my big 20lb tank outside of the fridge, or switch to a 5lb tank inside the fridge depending on where my fridge is, etc. I may move it upstairs, put wheels on it, use it for fests, etc. I just wanted my options open!

The butted ends turned out nicer than I thought they would. I put a 1/4" roundover on them and sanded them smooth. I've attached another picture of them, closer up. I tried mitering at first and I didn't have the depth to cut through a board that thick on my crosscut sled, sort of ruined my crosscut sled in the process, etc.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks!! Nice, I hadn't thought about putting a shutoff at the bulkhead. You can actually see the CO2 bulkhead in the picture without insulation. I took out the hardware while I was insulating, I just need to drill the hole the rest of the way through. I have a 4-way manifold that I haven't hooked up yet. The main reason I went with the CO2 bulkhead is so that I can either use my big 20lb tank outside of the fridge, or switch to a 5lb tank inside the fridge depending on where my fridge is, etc. I may move it upstairs, put wheels on it, use it for fests, etc. I just wanted my options open!

The butted ends turned out nicer than I thought they would. I put a 1/4" roundover on them and sanded them smooth. I've attached another picture of them, closer up. I tried mitering at first and I didn't have the depth to cut through a board that thick on my crosscut sled, sort of ruined my crosscut sled in the process, etc.

Beautiful! Nice and tight corner joints you got there. Mitering that thickness is a PITA. Plus you end up with sharp corners that may not look so hot or worse.

Now I see the bulkhead! And in the 1st pic too, doh!

You could mount the gas shut off on the inside for a lower outside profile, and better protection. Not sure what kind of shut off valve you can get in regards to the MFL connections.

I did notice having 2 of the red handled shut off valves in series, both with check valves, caused flow problems, so look for a main shut off without a check valve.