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jjsscram

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Have done My first first extract ale, I am now thinking about tring a all grain. I have a few questions I am tring to sort out.

1. Which way are you doing your mash. Are you using a Big pot or moddified
cooler.

2. If you use a cooler does a inexpensive plastic camping cooler work?

3. If I set up for a piping system in the cooler to drain the wort What type of
piping do I need. Do i need to use copper or can i use PVC?

4. I am have trouble locating a large enough stainless or elamale stock pot is
a aluminum one ok to use?

Thanks guys.
 

roverz

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Just Tried my first AG 2 weeks ago and this is what I have learned so far.

1. Don't use Plastic Ale Pails for Mashing and Sparging tanks. They loose heat way 2 quickly and you will constantly be trying to correc the temp.
* Just ordered a 10 Gallon Igloo (Sparge) and a 14 G Stainless Kettle (Mash) to correct this problem (anybody want to buy 2 ale pales :)

2. I think copper is the way to go and would be best.

3. You can find them but they are not cheap... Aluminum is not recommended at least is what I have read.

just my .02
 
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jjsscram

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Good link that answers a lot of my questions. Still having trouble locating a big enought stainless pot locally though.
 

Kephren

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I notice you're in Reno. There are a couple of places you can go for a big enough kettle. The Restaurant Supply Company (Resco) on South Virginia has SS and Aluminum. I don't know the downsides to aluminum and I have always used a turkey fryer, but that wasn't big enough, so I got a 50 quart aluminum pot at Resco for about $60. They have the same size SS for about $150 I think.
Also, Rob has a small selection of kettles at the Reno Homebrewer. If you bring in a cooler, he'll set up the Mash Tun for you. The phil's phalse bottom is $18. The spigot is about $5.
 

tnlandsailor

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A rectangular 48 - 50 quart ice chest is about the most economical mash tun around. Less than $20 at Wal-Mart. Their shape also makes fitting them with a slotted manifold very convenient. If you decide on the manifold route, do NOT use PVC. PVC starts to give off plastic smells and off-flavors around 140 F. Use CPVC or copper. The CPVC will be easier to work with but is a bit more fagile than copper. I can't vouch for the stainless steel braided hose idea, but I've heard of several brewers who use this approach and like it.

If at all possible, watch at least a couple of all-grain brews before you do one on your own. This helps A LOT.

Prost,
 

DeRoux's Broux

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i've used the set up on the cruisenews.net/brewing link three times and worked like a charm. spent 30 bucks total for my mash/lauter tun. the stainless braided line works good. no stuck mashes and my OG are dead on. the only thing i would recommend, is get a 10 gallon cooler, rather than the 5. i've always been told not to use aluminum to boil your wort due to leaching effect from acidic contents. i got a 64 qt stainless crawfish pot (or turkey fryer everywhere else) at a local sporting good chain for $70. everyone else is about $145.

GO ALL-GRAIN! IT'S EASY AND THE BEER IS WAY BETTER!!!!!
Cheers!
DeRoux's Broux
 
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jjsscram

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Got a set up from my local home brew supply today. It uses my bottling/ fermenting bucket to a mash tun. Basicly it is a false bottom. Also got a stainless 32 quart pot with a heavy clad bottom for $50 from him today to. It was the display. Got the grain and every thing I needed, Next days off I will try my first all grain.

thanks for the input everyone
 

ChrisKoivu

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I bought 2 8-Quart stockpots and a collander for my mashing & sparging, and had good results. The collander I use is tight fitting on the stock pot, and can hold a lot of grain. The critical part is the Mash. That is where the sugars are formed. I mash at 131 degrees for a 1/2 hour, then 155 degrees for 2 hours, and it is easier to maintain the temperatures on a stove.


I then fit the collander on the other stockpot and pour the liquor through
the collander. I then put the collander on the mashing stockpot. I run the liquor through it again, and switch the collander and run through as often as it takes to clear the liquid. I then boil my water to a rolling boil, let the temperature drop to 170 degrees, and with the collander fitted tightly
on the stockpot filled with the liquid, I sparge slowly with a spoon.

I have a Mr Beer keg, so I only brew 2.5 gallons @ a time. I have been very successful with this method (IF a good buzz is an accurate gauge). I take a lot of care not to sparge too quickly, and when you mash & sparge with just 3 pounds of grain, it is easy.
 

andre the giant

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I use plastic buckets for my mashing equipment. I bought a system from a brewing company and it came with a mash jacket that seems to do very well. I usually start out with a temp around 154 and let it sit for 30-45 minutes with the jacket on. It usually loses some heat, maybe down to 143 or so, but then I start to recirculate and add heat to that. After about 90 minutes I figure it's done. I'd like to move up to a 10-15 gallon system, but I need to get away from bottling first. I can't imagine storing, cleaning, filling and capping 140 bottles of beer per batch... :rolleyes:
 
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