Mash water Miscalculation

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jeph00

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Hello.
I made a mistake when I calculated my mash water. I have 9.5lbs of grain, and 19 litres mash water in my brewzilla, and then 9 litres for sparging. I had the grain in before I realized my mistake.
So now my mash is very watery. I am wondering if this will work. Will I still get good beer? :confused:
 

IslandLizard

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That's 5 gallons (20 quarts) of water. This is for a 5 gallon batch, right?
At 20/9.5 = 2.1 quarts/pound it's not crazy thin. Add less sparge water later to get to your pre-boil volume.

Did you take a gravity reading of the mash? And how?
Is the mash still proceeding?
 
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jeph00

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That's 5 gallons (20 quarts) of water. This is for a 5 gallon batch, right?
At 20/9.5 = 2.1 quarts/pound it's not crazy thin. Add less sparge water later to get to your pre-boil volume.

Did you take a gravity reading of the mash? And how?
Is the mash still proceeding?
It's for a 7 gallon batch. Just started mashing, I did not take a gravity reading yet.
 

IslandLizard

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These brew machines rely on a thinnish mash, it's a BIAB (Brew in a Bag) system basically. Some don't even include a sparge, although with a sparge you'd get a somewhat better mash efficiency.
Are you recirculating the mash?

9.5# of grain for a 7 gallon batch is going to be low gravity beer, 1.040-ish. Is that intentional?

How are you going to sparge?
 
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jeph00

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These brew machines rely on a thinnish mash, it's a BIAB (Brew in a Bag) system basically. Some don't even include a sparge, although with a sparge you'd get a somewhat better mash efficiency.
Are you recirculating the mash?

9.5# of grain for a 7 gallon batch is going to be low gravity beer, 1.040-ish. Is that intentional?
How are you going to sparge?
Yes, I am recirculating. It's a light beer by choice, yes. I just fly sparge, pour the 9L of water of the grain and let it rinse thru. When do I take a gravity reading then? New to brewing, so please bear with me. :)
 

IslandLizard

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Yes, I am recirculating. It's a light beer by choice, yes.
OK, good!

I just fly sparge, pour the 9L of water of the grain and let it rinse thru.
To sparge, are you raising the basket out of the wort, then pour your sparge water over it?
That's not fly sparging, it's basically just a rinse, like rinsing shampoo out of your hair. That's fine, at least for now.

A batch/dunk sparge can give you a few extra points, but you'd need a separate, large bucket for that.

When do I take a gravity reading then? New to brewing, so please bear with me. :)
Take the gravity reading before you sparge, to make sure you're on target with your pre-boil gravity. Then you sparge with just enough water to get your intended pre-boil gravity.
Are you using any software for your brewday? What's your aim for pre-boil and post-boil gravity?

Yes, I know you're new to brewing. Let's make an excellent batch of beer!
 
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jeph00

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Yes I'm simply raising the basket out and rinsing off the grains. Always thought this was referred to a fly sparge, but I guess not.
Not using any software, as I am still learning. I am not sure what my aim is for gravity, how is this determined? My pre boil gravity is 1.040 but I have actually already sparged. I know, I am not all that technical when it comes to brewing.
 

IslandLizard

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Not using any software, as I am still learning. I am not sure what my aim is for gravity, how is this determined? My pre boil gravity is 1.040 but I have actually already sparged. I know, I am not all that technical when it comes to brewing.
Are you using a recipe?
That usually has an Original Gravity (OG) listed. OG is the after-boil gravity, what goes into your fermenter, that's what you want to aim at, or at least getting close to.

Is the intended recipe OG 1.040, or higher? The thing is, you'll be evaporating during the boil, so your volume goes down, while gravity goes up.
Think of a rubber band, long and thin, or short and thick.
Boil-off is a good thing, boiling off water condenses your wort, which (indirectly) increases your (brewhouse) efficiency.

So your mash and sparge are done, you're boiling it right now, adding hops at some point?
 

RM-MN

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So now my mash is very watery. I am wondering if this will work. Will I still get good beer?
Thin mashes convert faster and more completely than thick mashes. This still doesn't give you the answer whether or not you will get good beer. That depends on your other practices but you have a good start.
 
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jeph00

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Are you using a recipe?
That usually has an Original Gravity (OG) listed. OG is the after-boil gravity, what goes into your fermenter, that's what you want to aim at, or at least getting close to.

Is the intended recipe OG 1.040, or higher? The thing is, you'll be evaporating during the boil, so your volume goes down, while gravity goes up.
Think of a rubber band, long and thin, or short and thick.
Boil-off is a good thing, boiling off water condenses your wort, which (indirectly) increases your (brewhouse) efficiency.

So your mash and sparge are done, you're boiling it right now, adding hops at some point?
I got the ingredients and directions from a friend, without a recipe. So I don't have an OG today. I did have 2 hop additions. For the next batch I will use a recipe and make sure I know my OG before getting started. And ask here if I have any questions. Thank you for your time and help.
 

RM-MN

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I got the ingredients and directions from a friend, without a recipe. So I don't have an OG today. I did have 2 hop additions. For the next batch I will use a recipe and make sure I know my OG before getting started. And ask here if I have any questions. Thank you for your time and help.
I wouldn't get too concerned about the OG. Most people can't tell whether your beer started with an OG of 1.050 or only 1.040. If the flavor is good, who cares unless you are trying to get a buzz in which case the higher OG will get you more alcohol. I like a English mild for the flavor and the fact that I don't get buzzed so I can still get work done after a refreshing drink.
 

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