Mash Tun Choices

BrewSwag 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
B

Bamsdealer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
948
Reaction score
51
Location
Collegeville
So, after a few brews I'm hooked and moving to all grain. I've read a lot but am still up in the air on what to do for a mash tun. My options are:

Add a bazooka screen for my existing 10 gallon pot and use it as my mash tun. Under this scenario, I will still need to buy another large pot for my hot water.

Make a DIY mash tun using a square or rectangular igloo cooler

Buy one of these-
http://www.homebrewing.org/10-Gallon-Converted-Igloo-Cooler-Mash-Tun-With-False-Bottom_p_1006.html

My concerns and questions regarding the cooler mash tun. Is there much difference between using a false bottom or a stainless screen in the bottom of the cooler type? Is one of the round taller drink coolers better than a shorter rectangular cooler for sparging? A few of the igloo style coolers I've seen had a fly sparge ring built in the lid. Is this necessary or would I do just as well sparging manually sprinkling water from a hot water tank? I will drop $150 on a nice setup if it really is a step above a $75 DIY project, but if I won't see a difference then I certainly would like to save some money.

I'd like to get this right the first time and be happy with my setup for several years. Thanks.
 
For low cost, it's hard to beat the nylon bag. But, once you start brewing batches that require more grain, you'll outgrow it.

I use a 1/2 barrel keg that I converted into a mash tun. Complete with Jaybird/NorCal false bottom and Blichman AutoSparge (among other things). I don't regret it for an instant. Especially since I've mashed about 29# of grain in it so far (in a single batch). Try doing THAT with a bag and not bust something lifting it out. :eek: :D

IF you decide to go the nylon bag route, do yourself a favor and get another large pot/kettle. Also, convert your current pot into a kettle (install a ball valve) to make draining it much easier. A dip tube setup will also make getting more of the wort out easier.

Personally, I like the keg mash tun because I place it on my burner to heat the water for the mash-in as well as fire it to get to mash-out/sparge temp before draining and sparging (with the autosparge I drain as it's adding the sparge water).

There's at least a dozen different ways to do this (if not several dozen). You need to decide what you're willing to spend, and what direction you want to go. As long as you're making wort for the boil it doesn't really matter which method you use.
 
I considered the bag, but I see myself doing a lot of imperials and know I'll enjoy doing it the traditional method. I've pretty much decided going the mash tun route... just want to do it right so I'll be happy with my setup for years to come.

I do have a valve and thermometer on my brew pot so I can get a screen for the bottom and convert that to a mash tun, but I'll still need to buy another pot for heating sparge water
 
You'll also need something to drain into and/or boil in.

I have three vessels for my current system. Two are kegs, the third is a 10 gallon (cheap) pot turned into a kettle for the HLT. I have the mash tun keg on the burner with the leg extensions (I have two Blichmann burners), where I heat the strike water. I add the grain, stir and mash in that. I then heat the sparge water in the cheap kettle so that it's ready when I'm draining the mash tun. I drain the mash tun into the boil keggle (I use the nylon bag to catch grain bits that get through the false bottom). I then take the mash tun off that burner and we lift the boil keggle into it's place to finish the brewing. I have thermometers fitted to both the mash tun and HLT, but not (currently) on the boil keggle. I had one in my first boil keggle, but haven't decided if I'll be installing one on the new boil keggle. Pictures of the keggles are in my gallery. The mash tun is wrapped in black. :D
 
Yeah... If I go the cooler route I figure my 3 tier setup will be brewpot with hot water on top, mash tun in the middle and primary fermenter bucket to collect the runnings. After I hit my volume I'll transfer it back into the brew pot to be boiled.

I'll be doing 5 gal batches so this setup should work nicely with a 10 gallon tun.
 
Bamsdealer said:
Yeah... If I go the cooler route I figure my 3 tier setup will be brewpot with hot water on top, mash tun in the middle and primary fermenter bucket to collect the runnings. After I hit my volume I'll transfer it back into the brew pot to be boiled.

I'll be doing 5 gal batches so this setup should work nicely with a 10 gallon tun.
Click to expand...

Be careful of heating plastic too far... Plastic fermenters are not rated above 160F (fine for the mash, NOT the sparge temps). At those temps, they get very soft and start to deform. Not something I'd want to have happen. Nor would I want them to start to go soft while you're trying to pour from one back into the kettle you'll be boiling in.

IMO, better to get another kettle you can use for the HLT and have the mash tun drain into the boil kettle.
 
Bamsdealer said:
....and primary fermenter bucket to collect the runnings.
Click to expand...

Just a heads up...not the best idea to use your fermenter to collect runnings as the pre boil wort is full of "bugs". Best to keep cold side equipment, and hot side equipment seperate. That being said, any hdpe bucket can collect runnings.

Back to the original question, BIAB is a viable cheap option to get started or even use long term...or any cooler can be converted on the cheap as well, point being, don't think for a minute you need bling and stainless valves...AG brewing can be as simple or involved as you wish...the end result is more a factor of your process than the equipment involved.

Using a pot as a MT can be tricky to maintain mash temps...if it can fit in a warm oven that's good, or wrap in a few blankets to keep heat works as well. Unless you have a method to add heat w/ pumps and recirculating, a keggle or kettle makes a tricky mash tun IMHO.

Golddiggie said:
For low cost, it's hard to beat the nylon bag. But, once you start brewing batches that require more grain, you'll outgrow it.
Click to expand...

I don't follow, AFAIK one can brew some big ass beers w/ a bag, maybe not 10 gallons, but 5 should be easily attainable???

AFAIK hdpe can handle both mash and sparge temps, some even boil w/ hdpe???
 
When we moved to all grain, we used a 10 gal igloo round with the homemade screen from SS braided. It worked very well and only dropped about a degree or two in 90 minutes, We bought a braid and a SS spring from Mc Master Carr as an upgrade. The SS spring kept the screen from crushing. We tried fly sparging but soon added some extra 2 row and batch sparged. One thing to remember, it is easier to cool mash than heat it. Pre warm your MLT and shoot for slightly higher mash then cool it down with small additions of very cold water. We now have a 40 gal Stout MLT and use a HERMS system. After our first All Grain, we never looked back.
 
wilserbrewer said:
I don't follow, AFAIK one can brew some big ass beers w/ a bag, maybe not 10 gallons, but 5 should be easily attainable???
Click to expand...

I use 3 gallon kegs, filling two from every batch. Since going to the keggle mash tun, I'm able to do this without issue, no matter what my batch OG has been. I have 6+ gallons of 12% wee heavy aging on some oak right now that will go into a pair of kegs. Most of the time, I'm starting the boil with 8-9 gallons of wort. I go down to about 7 gallons, getting about 6.5-7 gallons into primary. My last batch had almost 16# of grain in it, for a caramel ale recipe. This weekend's mocha porter calls for almost 23.5# of grain.

If I go down to ~5 gallons into kegs (I also have a pair of 2.5 gallon kegs) then I can get an even stronger brew.

I figure I can mash about 30-32 POUNDS of grain in my keg mash tun. I wouldn't even THINK about using that much grain with a bag. Besides, I have the thermometer fitted to the keg mash tun, along with the false bottom and dip tube. Makes it VERY easy to work with.

I have tried using a nylon bag in a cooler once, and in a kettle once. Both times it was a PITA. Far more trouble than going with a proper mash tun. That's my own experiences with all of the methods listed. I started all grain with BIAB but once I wanted to brew something bigger in ABV and a bit more than 5 gallons out, I outgrew them. My brew buddy used to BIAB, until I offered up my 10 gallon RubberMaid mash tun and 8 gallon [aluminum] kettle for him to use. Now he can properly mash the grains he wants to use (instead of in the two 5 gallon pots he was using).

AFAIK hdpe can handle both mash and sparge temps, some even boil w/ hdpe???
Click to expand...
NOT recommended, in the least. Max recommended/listed temp on the plastic fermenters is 160F (if I recall correctly)... Not an issue for me since I ferment in stainless (sanke kegs). There are different formulas for HDPE, so clumping it all into one isn't wise. The HDPE used in fermenters you get from the HBS is listed with warnings above 160F. IMO, it's not worth the risk. Far better to have something you KNOW will stand up to the temperatures than something you hope will (or think it should).
 
I can skip the ale pail and use a carboy to collect the runnings. Trying to avoid buying too much at once, but want to get a mash tun I'll be happy with and using for years. The wife thinks the money should go towards stuff for our new house. I say feh.
 
Bamsdealer said:
I can skip the ale pail and use a carboy to collect the runnings. Trying to avoid buying too much at once, but want to get a mash tun I'll be happy with and using for years. The wife thinks the money should go towards stuff for our new house. I say feh.
Click to expand...

Just be careful with the hot wort going into the carboy. If it's glass, the max safe temp is 140F, so you're in the danger zone right off the bat there. If you have some large pots, just collect in those.

As for the wife... The beer you'll make with the mash tun will make you happier in the house. So it's a twofer... :D

I would recommend getting a mash tun that will easily handle the max grain you think you'll mash for the next few years. As I mentioned, I can easily mash about 28# in my keg mash tun. From 28-30 (or 32) pounds, it's a little tight, but can still be done.

The only reason I would make another mash tun, now, is to implement some changes I've thought up since making my first one. A lot of the parts will carry over to the new one, so that's no issue.
 
Good call on adding hot liquid to glass. I should have known that one after breaking hot glass with a cool liquid.

I see it as an investment. I need beer to serve to everyone helping me move:) 40+ quarts should cover any 5 gallon batch I'll be brewing.
 
I have a converted keg from Jaybird/NorCal Brewing Solutions too... AWESOME. worked every penny.
 
Bamsdealer said:
My concerns and questions regarding the cooler mash tun.

Is there much difference between using a false bottom or a stainless screen in the bottom of the cooler type?

Is one of the round taller drink coolers better than a shorter rectangular cooler for sparging?

A few of the igloo style coolers I've seen had a fly sparge ring built in the lid. Is this necessary or would I do just as well sparging manually sprinkling water from a hot water tank?
Click to expand...

1) More or less it is a point of preference. I use a DIY "bazooka" for my mash tun and a false bottom in my BK. The false bottom is easy to take out to clean but I have never taken off my SS braid to clean, it just gets sprayed with the hose like my mash tun does.

2) If using a square cooler a manifold is recommended over a false bottom or braid so as to help collect ALL of the sweet wort.

3) If you are fly sparging then you will want some way to evenly distribute your water be it a ring, fixed cross, rotating cross, anything you might come up with... If you are batch sparging you don't require a third vessel if you will use your bucket transferring method (I use a 2 vessel setup with some buckets to transfer) and you won't have to move your BK above your head to sparge.

wilserbrewer said:
Just a heads up...not the best idea to use your fermenter to collect runnings as the pre boil wort is full of "bugs". Best to keep cold side equipment, and hot side equipment seperate.
Click to expand...

I see absolutely no issue with this. If there are any "bugs" that your wort touches pre-boil, then they will die in the boil WAY before they cause any problems for you.
 
I have to agree that the plastic coolers have a warping issue at sparge. I used an igloo 10 gallon. They do a great job holding temps and I've made great beer in them but felt I would rather not make a brew from a slowly melting vessel.
I went with a 15gal keg MLT. Holding the temps have been an issue but slowly working it out. Beers have been fine with it. An SS keg MLT will last a lifetime or resale easily recouping most of your investment. The plastic cooler will not and can't be good if it softens while mashing. Many brewers have reported this softening while others have had no issues.
I say convert a keg and have a vessel for life.
 
For those of us with keg mash tuns there are at least a few options for helping to maintain temperatures during the mash and sparge. I've added a carbon fiber welding blanket to my mash tun which helps maintain the temps except when it's really cold out (under 25F it seems). You can also get some reflectix insulation and slip that over the mash tun after you turn off the flame (for those using gas burners). If you're going electric, you can probably leave it on there for the entire time.

I'm probably going to change the insulation on my mash tun before fall comes around. I didn't cure the glue I used properly (high temp tolerant) so it's not 100% proof against water. Since we rinse the mash tun out, it's slowly undermining the glue. I'm also thinking about using a different keg for the base, and actually polish it first. I didn't do that the first time. Since I glued the blanket to it, I'm glad I didn't. But, with the next revision, I won't be gluing anything so I can polish it up nice. :D

I'm sure I'm not the only one that really appreciates a nice shiny keggle... :drunk:
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer
Just a heads up...not the best idea to use your fermenter to collect runnings as the pre boil wort is full of "bugs". Best to keep cold side equipment, and hot side equipment seperate.

The worry is not to your wort, it is the potential in contaminating your fermenter...best not to put nasty "bugs" in your fermenter...ever. Yes, I realize you will sanitize the fermenter prior to use as a fermenter...
 
wilserbrewer said:
The worry is not to your wort, it is the potential in contaminating your fermenter...best not to put nasty "bugs" in your fermenter...ever. Yes, I realize you will sanitize the fermenter prior to use as a fermenter...
Click to expand...

AH... I definitely agree with you there then.
 
I did a weldless bottom drain keg, insulated with 4 layers of reflectix on the sides and bottom. It only dropped 1 degree on my 90 minute mash for a 120 minute clone.

b4d65145-orig.jpg
[/IMG]

312a78e6-orig.jpg
[/IMG]

d8509322-4894-4de2-93fe-2f713d6deaa3.jpg
[/IMG]

2d957fd1-601e-4e31-a7b0-9328b1c909b8.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Quote from above :) More or less it is a point of preference. I use a DIY "bazooka" for my mash tun and a false bottom in my BK. The false bottom is easy to take out to clean but I have never taken off my SS braid to clean, it just gets sprayed with the hose like my mash tun does.

When we were using a bazooka, we did not do that either. We simply flushed with water. After a few batches, I decided to remove it and boil the screen. I wonder how I ever got good beer after the crud that came out of the bazooka. I would worry about a fixed piece as it would be hard to clean. We eventually went to a Stout Mash Tun and we use a chin chiller as a HERMS. If you have a wort chiller you could use that as a HERMS as well. Of course, HERMS requires a pump.

On another note, you will never be satisfied completely with your equipment. We get a nice new shiny thing and what do we want, another new shiny thing!
 
Golddiggie said:
For those of us with keg mash tuns there are at least a few options for helping to maintain temperatures during the mash and sparge. I've added a carbon fiber welding blanket to my mash tun which helps maintain the temps except when it's really cold out (under 25F it seems). You can also get some reflectix insulation and slip that over the mash tun after you turn off the flame (for those using gas burners). If you're going electric, you can probably leave it on there for the entire time.

I'm probably going to change the insulation on my mash tun before fall comes around. I didn't cure the glue I used properly (high temp tolerant) so it's not 100% proof against water. Since we rinse the mash tun out, it's slowly undermining the glue. I'm also thinking about using a different keg for the base, and actually polish it first. I didn't do that the first time. Since I glued the blanket to it, I'm glad I didn't. But, with the next revision, I won't be gluing anything so I can polish it up nice. :D

I tried 2 layers of reflective wrap AND a closed cell blue sleeping pad. Still dropped temps. Best results have been using reflexive wrap, blue pad and a sleeping bag draped over the entire keggle.
I think I need to raise temps of mlt and strike water, wrap with insulation then wait for ????? time to let temps equilibrate. But how long?? thinking 15-20 minutes. Since it is direct fire it is not that hard to raise temps but is a hassle to remove insulation.
I see strongbad uses 4 layer of wrap. Hmmm
Click to expand...
 
Cooler mash tun, 10 gal boil kettle , spaghetti pot for sparge water. Done. If you mash out, use your boil kettle to heat the mash out water and then the spaghetti pot to heat your sparge water.
 
Hi everyone!

I am considering on buying the water heater/boiler below as a mash tun. It is the first model on the page (SS 12). It is around 150 USD, but has a thermostat that has a 2Fahrenheit sensitivity, which will be definitely a more precise solution than a converted cooler. I will be working indoors, and my batch sizes will not be larger than 4/5 gals.

http://www.okyayltd.com.tr/en/products.asp?kat=8

What do the more experienced users think of such an equipment?
 

Similar threads

ghettoworm
Leaky Mash Tun
Replies
20
Views
557
Bobby_M
Bobby_M
Gadjobrinus
First one down - Coniston Blue Birdesque
Replies
8
Views
571
Gadjobrinus
Gadjobrinus
N
Stuck recirculation BM’s Cream of 3 Crops
Replies
10
Views
1K
Niatras
N
Lollim96
Can someone please explain AG brewing in mash tune that don’t have elements? Like cooler tuns?
Replies
13
Views
1K
marx2k
M
TeflonTom
How to Balance a Water Profile between HLT and Mash Tun?
Replies
4
Views
891
hottpeper13
H

Latest posts

Back
Top