Mash efficiency

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bassmaster911

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I'm 2 brews deep on an Anvil all in one. My mash efficiency has been 57% both times. Grain milled by AHS. I like that it's consistent but are there any tricks for consistent higher numbers? What's your process? Thanks!
 
The best way to improve mash efficiency depends on your equipment and process. So it might be helpful for you to describe those.

Also, here's a slide from a presentation on mash efficiency that might spark some thoughts about your equipment/process.

8FrdKmL.jpg


Full presentation is here:
http://sonsofalchemy.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Mash_Efficiency_and_Brewhouse_Efficiency.pdf
 
I'm 2 brews deep on an Anvil all in one. My mash efficiency has been 57% both times. Grain milled by AHS. I like that it's consistent but are there any tricks for consistent higher numbers? What's your process? Thanks!
If you are using the malt pipe, there are well understood lauter efficiency problems with it. Mash efficiency = conversion efficiency * lauter efficiency, so poor lauter efficiency will result in poor mash efficiency. Brewhouse efficiency = mash efficiency * fermenter volume / post-boil volume, so low lauter efficiency also negatively affects brewhouse efficiency.

I suggest you read the following thread, and this one as well, as they discuss this problem, and solutions to it.

Brew on :mug:
 
There is an inherent built-in inefficiency with the Foundry. The water between the malt pipe and the kettle wall do not get pulled into the recirculation process and therefore does not come into contact with the grains. The remedy is to pull the malt pipe once or twice during the mash. You can pick up 4 or more points of efficiency by doing this.
 
There is an inherent built-in inefficiency with the Foundry. The water between the malt pipe and the kettle wall do not get pulled into the recirculation process and therefore does not come into contact with the grains. The remedy is to pull the malt pipe once or twice during the mash. You can pick up 4 or more points of efficiency by doing this.
I use a Brewzilla, which is a similar design, and I would imagine this would help me as well. My mash efficiencies have been running between 55-60% and I would like to see a bit more.....I think I will give this a try on the next brewday.....Thanks for the tip....
 
a big improvement for me, fly sparging anyway, was learning to do it as slow as possible? i assume with a batch sparge or something like it, would be similar, sugar might be misscible with water, but still takes some time to go into solution....
 
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a big improvement for me, fly sparging anyway, was learning to do it as slow as possible? i assume with a batch sparge or something like it, would be similar, sugar might be misscible with water, but still takes some time to go into solution....
The standard recommendation for batch sparging is to stir the sparge water aggressively into the drained grain bed, in order to speed up wort homogenization. Otherwise you have to wait for diffusion to do its thing.

Brew on :mug:
 
I use a Brewzilla, which is a similar design, and I would imagine this would help me as well. My mash efficiencies have been running between 55-60% and I would like to see a bit more.....I think I will give this a try on the next brewday.....Thanks for the tip....
@Teufelhunde Don't try the above tip.

I was using a robobrew or a guten 70 ( can't remember which but they are same design as brewzilla) when I saw this tip suggested I think on one of the anvil specific threads again related to efficiency issues.
The robo/ brewz/ guten have a removable bottom plate, this means when you lift the malt pipe no problems, however when you dunk it back in the wort forces the bottom plate up, especially when you do this several times to mix everything as suggested.

When the bottom plate gets forced up it doesn't reseat and so grains then escape into the bottom of your kettle. Chaos.

The anvil has a fixed bottom plate I was told after my trial of this so this doesn't happen for the anvil.

Your options with the rob/brewz/guten are a couple to incorporate the dead space water in your mash.

If you have a sight glass ( guten has one built in) and enough space above your grain you can increase the wort recirculation until the wort level drops to the bottom plate level of the malt pipe. Hence " using" the dead space liquid temporarily. This takes a bit of research to find the mark on the sight glass and is best not done on a brew day. The guten 70 has 9 litres of dead space below the malt pipe. The robobrew and brewzilla 3 again have a few inches of wort height. I believe this is much less in the brewz 4 so more caution would be required with this approach on that unit.
Just do this cycle a few times during the mash, you obviously have to be very careful that you don't run the bottom of the kettle dry.

Option 2
I've now fitted a 3 way ball lock on the recirc up pipe near the bottom and taken the tap off the unit and fitted a whirlpool pipe on the inside. This means I can recirculate over the top and also via whirlpool during the mash. The whirlpool pipe is angled up between the malt pipe and the kettle wall so it mixes the wall gap dead space liquid. It also has helped enormously with better temp control because the wort is being mixed in the bottom of the vessel and helps to mitigate the flawed design of temp sensor on outer rim and away from the drain hole.
Secondarily if the recirc flow is a bit too much and not in balance as the level drops the top of the whirlpool flow breaks the dropping wort level and becomes noisier. This indicates I need to watch out and adjust the flow as it's a little too fast.



guten whirlpool.jpgguten pre three way.jpgguten with three way.jpgguten recirc tube.jpgguten with cfc.jpg

I do add the CFC in during the cooling phase and whirlpool at the same time then disconnect and chill straight into the fermenter. Sometimes add the hop rocket into the system if the brew needs it.


I don't brew with this on the worktop
 
i assume with a batch sparge or something like it, would be similar, sugar might be misscible with water, but still takes some time to go into solution....

The standard recommendation for batch sparging is to stir the sparge water aggressively into the drained grain bed, in order to speed up wort homogenization. Otherwise you have to wait for diffusion to do its thing.

Yep. Assuming conversion was complete before doing the first runnings and sparge, the sugars are already in solution. The sparge water just needs to be homogenized with the remaining wort, then let 'er rip.

The reason for slow and gentle fly sparging is to prevent mixing to the extent possible, "pushing" the dense wort out and leaving behind thin wort.
 
The robo/ brewz/ guten have a removable bottom plate, this means when you lift the malt pipe no problems, however when you dunk it back in the wort forces the bottom plate up, especially when you do this several times to mix everything as suggested.


i'd pull it out let it drain then dunk the malt pipe in a seperate vessel with fresh water, then add that rinse back to the kettle?
 
I have a Mash & Boil and had the same efficiency problems. Another thing I did not like was storing sparge water. My fixes were to add a pump (Bayite BYT-7A015 from Amazon with a dimmer switch) and recirculate during the mash. I also bought a second Mash & Boil, with pump, to sparge in. So, I mash in one, sparge/mash out in the other then combine and boil. In retrospect, I might have just used my boil kettle to do the sparge, but I have grown to like having two units.

 
. I also bought a second Mash & Boil, with pump, to sparge in.


what increase did you get in % points with the second vessel to sparge in? for the public's knowledge....because that's what i'd do too.


(and i think just droping the basket in a $5 bucket and pouring warm water over the grain would save some money on equipment! ;) :mug:)
 
what increase did you get in % points with the second vessel to sparge in? for the public's knowledge....because that's what i'd do too.


(and i think just droping the basket in a $5 bucket and pouring warm water over the grain would save some money on equipment! ;) :mug:)
I went from around 60% and now average about 80% efficiency with my setup.

Yea, I thought about the bucket thing after I already spent the money!
 
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