March Pump Question

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Reverend JC

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For tubing i would get yourself some of the heat tolerent tubing. you dont need to much of it.
 
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lil' league

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For tubing i would get yourself some of the heat tolerent tubing. you dont need to much of it.
Any links to what would work with the temp. and for the psi the pump will create.. I just don't want my tubing to collapse or anything.
 

beerthirty

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you might want to go to the march website and make sure it is a mag drive. the ad says ceramic shaft. Most shaft driven pumps have a ceramic shaft seal with buna N orings, which onlyactually accounts for 1/2 of the seal. the seat(portion that is mounted in the rear housing) is almost always ceramic, and the spring loaded rotary portion of the seal can be made from copper bonded to rubber which seals the shaft side. I would be afraid that the seal word was left off "ceramic shaft" and that it is not a magdrive pump but a standard shaft driven pump with a ceramic/rubber shaft seal.
It also seems the question was evaded slightly when you posted your question to the seller since he only answered the part about voltage conversion.
 

FireBrewer

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Any links to what would work with the temp. and for the psi the pump will create.. I just don't want my tubing to collapse or anything.
I tried vinyl tubing with mine, hot wort/sparge water makes it more pliable and will collapse under even the relatively low suction on the pump. I grabbed some silicone tubing from MoreBeer, works great, no problems. It's a little expensive, but it'll last.

For the info, go to www.marchpump.com and search the model/serial number for the info and compare it to the standard March 809. You're not looking for pressure, you're looking for a pump that can tolerate boiling liquids and can move a comparable volume of wort (unless of course, you're planning on pumping it upstairs or something)

Great info in beerthirty's post. I remember seeing that pump on eBay before and IIRC the only thing that was attractive about it was the price. Just the fact that the seller hasn't been 100% with you would make me lose interest in the deal.

Good luck!
 
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lil' league

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you might want to go to the march website and make sure it is a mag drive. the ad says ceramic shaft. Most shaft driven pumps have a ceramic shaft seal with buna N orings, which onlyactually accounts for 1/2 of the seal. the seat(portion that is mounted in the rear housing) is almost always ceramic, and the spring loaded rotary portion of the seal can be made from copper bonded to rubber which seals the shaft side. I would be afraid that the seal word was left off "ceramic shaft" and that it is not a magdrive pump but a standard shaft driven pump with a ceramic/rubber shaft seal.
It also seems the question was evaded slightly when you posted your question to the seller since he only answered the part about voltage conversion.
I did some research and it turns out that it is a magnetic drive pump & luckily the rpm are near identical to the 809. Rep from March also said it should be good at 200F. So this pump should work out.. I'm hoping.
 

beerthirty

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sounds like it should work for you especially if you use an IC to drop the wort temp a little before sending it to the pump. Or place the CFC between the boilkettle and the pump. Have you priced the 230-110 step down transformers? I would be curious about those prices.
 
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lil' league

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sounds like it should work for you especially if you use an IC to drop the wort temp a little before sending it to the pump. Or place the CFC between the boilkettle and the pump. Have you priced the 230-110 step down transformers? I would be curious about those prices.
I haven't found prices yet, but I think I might actually benefit from just having additional 230v power ran straight from my box.
 

beerthirty

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I just did a quick search. WOW cheaper than I thought. here is the first one I found http://www.dvdoverseas.com/store/index.html?loadfile=catalog6_0.html Just chose the one that will handle your total watts. They all come with two outlets so you could run both of your pumps.

when doing math for motors and resistance appliances you need to figure 3-6 time rated amps for startup. I dont know if that applies for watts also.
 

issack

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if you use a short inlet line coming from your pot or ice chest with no bends to the pump you will never have a line collapse.. I also use a ball valve on the inlet intake to regulate my flow.

Looks like you got a sweet deal man.. Awesome.!
 

FireBrewer

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I like 'em on both the inlet (to bleed air) and outlet, to control output. ;) "Cavitation" is a bit misused when talking about magnetic-drive pumps---you can't cavitate a pump that slips and is 1/25 horsepower. You're just starving the pump by inducing air into the impeller.
 
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