manifold for cooler

[ChrisS]

I am looking at getting the stuff I need for AG brewing and after looking at the DIY MLT project on here I have a question about manifolds.

If I decided to go the route described in How to brew with copper pipe with slits in it, can this pipe be sodered (sp?) together and if so is there a special soder I need. Does it even need to be sodered at all? I have only done limited pipe work using lead soder.

 

[2nd Street Brewery]

Some people have partially soldered their manifolds. Mine is just dry fit together so I can pull it apart to clean easier. I can only speak from my experience but I've had no problems with it. You would use the same solder for this that you would use on water supply pipes, something that is save for potable water.

 

[1f1fan]

I used cpvc for my manifold. Easier to work with than copper and cheaper. I found slits to be a pain to make, so I drilled a bunch of small holes...no need to glue them together or worry about sweating copper together.


Here is the finished product:

 

[FSR402]

I went with the copper tube and I sodered the one end pieces and left the main (long tubes) just a slip fit so I can take it apart and clean it. I also left the end by the drain slip fit so I can rotate it up and get the system in and out easier.
I can drain 5 gallons of water in 30 sec.

 

[raceskier]

I had my friction fit DIY hopstopper come apart once, what a f$%^ing mess! So when I did my mash tun manifold, I match drilled the slip joints with a small (3/32?) hole and safety wire each joint together. It will absolutely not come apart when I don't want it to, yet is easy to disassemble and clean.

 

[wwest]

I had my friction fit DIY hopstopper come apart once, what a f$%^ing mess! So when I did my mash tun manifold, I match drilled the slip joints with a small (3/32?) hole and safety wire each joint together. It will absolutely not come apart when I don't want it to, yet is easy to disassemble and clean.

That's a great idea, I should do that on my manifold... I've been using teflon tape but I like the idea of a pin or wire better.

 

[woosterhoot]

I used cpvc for my manifold. Easier to work with than copper and cheaper. I found slits to be a pain to make, so I drilled a bunch of small holes...no need to glue them together or worry about sweating copper together.


Here is the finished product:

I second. Pvc is way cheaper and very easy to make.

 

[ChrisS]

what does the "c" stand for? What diameter pipe is that you are using 1f1fan?

 

[KwaiLo]

The C in CPVC stands for Chlorinated.

I haven't been able to find a definative site, but the info here; http://www.polymerplastics.com/corrosion_cpvc.shtml suggests that CPVC is good for sustained heat to 215F and short exposure to 230F. Compare that to the melting point of copper, which is 1984F.

This is a good site to view the resistance properties of materials against a particular solvent; http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp

 

[1f1fan]

Chris....that is 1/2" CPVC.

 

[Brew-boy]

I uses CPVC as well and has been very happy with this setup. I usually get 80 to 82% Effiency

 

[Two Dog's Brewing]

Here's mine Stainless steel tubing 1/2 swagelock fittings for super fast taking apart for cleaning. Built the manifold then freehanded the slots on a metal chopsaw. cut about halfway through the tubing. I did it in sections (sides, center) just tried to evenly space em best I could. It works REALLy well.