Manifold for 70qt Coleman Xtreme

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

janzik

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
528
Reaction score
1
Location
Old Bridge, NJ
I was planning to put together a manifold for the 70qt Coleman Xtreme I got from Walmart ($38) last week. I stopped by Lowes to scope out some parts and what I planned will not fit. So I am back to the drawing board. Here is what I had setup:

C----------C
| |
T-----------T
| T-OUT
T-----------T
| |
C----------C

(Edit: the above diagram looks a lot prettier in the edit window then it does on a read. So just imagine that the vertical lines "|" connect the C's and T's)

The vertical pieces were really just enough copper to connect the corners to the T's

This measured in at 10 15/16 inches (the cooler is ~10 1/2). I was thinking I can probably shave enough off the T's to make it work out, but I'm not sure.

Palmer's book says to have space on the outside of the corners (X on the inside, 1 half X on each outside corner (so 2 inches between the corner and the first T then the outside of the manifold to the wall "needs" to have 1 inch). I'm assuming (since I was too lazy to completely read the book) that this is for uniformity in flow.

I also seen this design for the Coleman 70 (on another board).

There was another pic that I found (I can't remember where, I'll edit if I find it) that had the manifold squeezed to the sides (maxed in size to help keep it in the cooler I guess?).

Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
OP
janzik

janzik

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
528
Reaction score
1
Location
Old Bridge, NJ
BNVince said:
I just converted the 70qt coleman that I got for Christmas. I used a stainless steel braid though.

Regardless, I posted the parts I used for the ball valve and whatnot if that helps you.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=49145
Thanks, that will help.

I also just seen this post as well..

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=43077

Looks like a simple loop like I posted the image link too.

Maybe I'm getting too complicated with trying to have 4 rows and should just do the 2.
 

beergears

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
999
Reaction score
8
Location
somewhere west of Boston Harba'
BN, and others that worked with a Coleman rectangular 36 or 70 qt, do you really need to go with the 1/2 nominal size, or would the 3/8 (as in round cooler parts list) do...?

I shopped with the 3/8 parts list, and I wonder if I need ot start again (they do share a common part or two).

EDIT: above refers to braid system parts list
 

BNVince

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Messages
282
Reaction score
2
Location
Linwood, NJ
beergears said:
BN, and others that worked with a Coleman rectangular 36 or 70 qt, do you really need to go with the 1/2 nominal size, or would the 3/8 (as in round cooler parts list) do...?

I shopped with the 3/8 parts list, and I wonder if I need ot start again (they do share a common part or two).

EDIT: above refers to braid system parts list
Everything fits very snug (which is a good thing I think) with 1/2 inch. I'm sure you could try it with 3/8 inch. I just went off a previous tutorial I found but I had to change a few things to fit the vinyl hosing I have.

Also, the 1/2 CLOSE nipple makes for a very tight fit. Something a bit longer may be better. I just made do with it because mine works and doesn't leak. I let it sit for 2 hours and not a drop.

Here is the original tutorial I used.
 

cowgo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Messages
578
Reaction score
12
Location
Kansas
BNVince said:
Everything fits very snug (which is a good thing I think) with 1/2 inch. I'm sure you could try it with 3/8 inch. I just went off a previous tutorial I found but I had to change a few things to fit the vinyl hosing I have.

Also, the 1/2 CLOSE nipple makes for a very tight fit. Something a bit longer may be better. I just made do with it because mine works and doesn't leak. I let it sit for 2 hours and not a drop.

Here is the original tutorial I used.
+1 that. I just converted my Coleman Extreme Cooler with 1/2 inch nipple and 1/2 inch ball valve. Very good water tight fit. Filled it with hot water and an hour later, still bone dry around the outside fitting.

Can't wait to try it out on Saturday. I have a single malt single hop brew (american 2 row and Amarillo) planned.
 

SuperiorBrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
1,672
Reaction score
45
Here is how I did mine, I used 3/4 PVC but copper could be used just as easilly. I cut slits in with a dremmel and a cutoff blade every 1/8" or so. I cut it to fit tight when pressed into place. You could use a shovel to stir your mash and it would stay put.






This is the manifold just laying on the lid for the pic. I did change out the tow outer pieces with solid PVC after reading Palmers book


I also built a SS braid for it because I had everything laying at home except fot the plastic T....I never got around to trying it as is always got mid to high 8o's % wise
 

BNVince

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Messages
282
Reaction score
2
Location
Linwood, NJ
That's really nice. That braid is enormous.

I'm wondering, does the size of the braid effect efficiency or does it simply help against stuck sparges?
 

SuperiorBrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
1,672
Reaction score
45
Its probably overkill but I had an extra braided washing machine hose laying here from when we built the house and I couldnt bring my self to cutting it in half. Most just use a single straight piece of braid and never have any problems.
I dont think you get any stuck sparges with braid. I never did with the PVC either, even did one with 45 oz of pumpkin puree.
 

BNVince

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2007
Messages
282
Reaction score
2
Location
Linwood, NJ
SuperiorBrew said:
Its probably overkill but I had an extra braided washing machine hose laying here from when we built the house and I couldnt bring my self to cutting it in half. Most just use a single straight piece of braid and never have any problems.
I dont think you get any stuck sparges with braid. I never did with the PVC either, even did one with 45 oz of pumpkin puree.
Nice. I'm really excited to give this thing a go on Sunday. I'm just hoping I get some good efficiency out of it. I'll be doing EdWort's Hause Pale Ale. We'll see how it goes.
 
OP
janzik

janzik

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
528
Reaction score
1
Location
Old Bridge, NJ
I want to hit Lowes today... I want to do the copper manifold. Should I go with the simple loop design (with space around the outside of the manifold) or try and make it slightly more complicated (with other parallel channels or even perpendicular channels). What sized copper should I use? 1/2 3/4? Thanks.
 

Gnome

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Messages
201
Reaction score
7
Location
Atlanta/ Phoenix
I'm converting a Colman 48 Q, 1/2" fits snug in the hole already drilled in the cooler. I got a 2" brass pipe nipple and found it a little short, so intend to swap for 2 1/2" so the ball valve can fully close with out contacting cooler wall. Still need SS washers and rubber washer. The rubber that came with the cooler on inside seems to fit the pipe nipple and hole just fine.

Manifold.jpg
 

FSR402

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
2,808
Reaction score
30
Location
Jenison, MI
janzik said:
I want to hit Lowes today... I want to do the copper manifold. Should I go with the simple loop design (with space around the outside of the manifold) or try and make it slightly more complicated (with other parallel channels or even perpendicular channels). What sized copper should I use? 1/2 3/4? Thanks.
Before making this please READ THIS..
After reading that and going by what he says I went with the loop.
The other one posted in here does not follow what he says.
 

SuperiorBrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
1,672
Reaction score
45
If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.



 

FSR402

Well-Known Member
Lifetime Supporter
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
2,808
Reaction score
30
Location
Jenison, MI
SuperiorBrew said:
If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.



One of the other pics you posted showed slots in the outer tubes. That is what i was talking about.
 

SuperiorBrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
1,672
Reaction score
45
FSR402 said:
One of the other pics you posted showed slots in the outer tubes. That is what i was talking about.
SuperiorBrew said:
This is the manifold just laying on the lid for the pic. I did change out the tow outer pieces with solid PVC after reading Palmers book
You must have missed this part :mug:
 
OP
janzik

janzik

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
Messages
528
Reaction score
1
Location
Old Bridge, NJ
SuperiorBrew said:
If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.

Does having that 3rd leg effect the flow? Would more get sucked in through the middle since it is a direct route out? (Especially since the "outer" 2 legs overpass the spigot, rather than connect close to it?

Mind you, I think regardless of which is used (2 legged loop, 3 legs with an overpass like yours or 3 legs that came together before the spigot) the differences would be negligible.

What size copper pipe for the manifold itself is recommended?
 

SuperiorBrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
1,672
Reaction score
45
janzik said:
Does having that 3rd leg effect the flow? Would more get sucked in through the middle since it is a direct route out? (Especially since the "outer" 2 legs overpass the spigot, rather than connect close to it?

Mind you, I think regardless of which is used (2 legged loop, 3 legs with an overpass like yours or 3 legs that came together before the spigot) the differences would be negligible.

What size copper pipe for the manifold itself is recommended?
Personally I dont think so, once you get the flow started it will sucking from all the tubes. I ran pumpkin, wheat and other more difficult mashes thru it and never even had a slow sparge, no rice hulls either.
I am sure 1/2" would be fine.
 

Latest posts

Top