I very rarely need more than 8.5 gallons for my 1.060 ish beers to get a 6 gallon batch. I BIAB and squeeze llke hell, though. And I only do 60 min Boils. I've found brewtarget to be really good with volumes after I got my equipment dialed in.
Lower than expected efficiency.
- Thread starter DigB
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I just used the Priceless calculator from your website and it said to use 35.62L (9.41 gal) thats based on 5.38L/hr boil off rate. (1.4 g/hr)
I calculated that rate by using http://sigginet.info/brewing/tools/boil-off-calculator/
Obviously that might change based on how vigorous the boil is and location, relative humidity etc but I can't imagine it would change drastically.
In the past I used the BIABacus to figure this all out but I just got a Mac and the spreadsheet doesn't work on the computer for some reason.
I used this http://www.simplebiabcalculator.com and it said to use just over 44L of water, which is 11.6 gallons which seems crazy.
and this one http://biabbrewing.com/brew-day-prep/biab-calculators-and-software/ (the one imbedded in the screen) says to use 38 L or 10 gallons
I just don't know which one to use, I know its trial and error but I would like to find the right calculators first so I don't have to second guess my measurements.
On my last batch I used calculations similar to what I got when I just entered them on Priceless, so I'll probably go with that one with my next batch but its hard not knowing which to use.
pricelessbrewing
Brewer's Friend Software Manager
Unfortunately I haven't updated the metric calculator ad frequently as the imperial calculator.
Not sure what discrepancies may exist between metric and imperial but for the most correct
Output I would suggest converting everything to imperial (gallons, lb, oz, etc) and using the imperial version.
Moroever, the one from biab brewing.com should yield a closer answer. Simplebiab is great for the intended audience, but is fairly inflexible and there are several variables that it makes assumptions on.
For what it's worth, I completely the answers the imperial calculator puts out and ot agrees with Beersmith.
Seems a bit high on the total water, I would suggest closely monitoring the volume in the kettle as you boil, check after 45 minutes and you will know where your heading.
Crank it up, or extend the boil time if you need to.
You will also have losses due to trub and yeast cake, so I would guess you need 6.5 to the fermenter to yield 5.5 packaged.
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
Crank it up, or extend the boil time if you need to.
You will also have losses due to trub and yeast cake, so I would guess you need 6.5 to the fermenter to yield 5.5 packaged.
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
I thought it was high as well but my last batch I got the desired amount into fermenter and I do account for 2L or .5g trub/yeast cake loss loss maybe an extra quarter gallon but that's it. I just racked to secondary and it looks about right.
My only question is if I extend boil time won't that affect the hop profile?
My next adjustment as it seems calculators are giving me roughly the same water I need as I got with other calculators will be the crush. The LHBS I use has a mill that some people use to make a different type of drink out of grains and it is set very fine. The ground grain looks like cornmeal so we'll see what that does to my efficiency.
Also I just got a dip stick that should help measurements.
pricelessbrewing
Brewer's Friend Software Manager
Good start. If you're going to use a calculator. I would recommend my own, or biabbrewing.com. These two should be within .1G, as the spreadsheet rounds to the nearest decimal and my is the nearest hundred.
Ideally, you would boil down to your known pre boil volume. This requires knowing your boil off rate, and the loss to trub in the kettle. That way it won't affect hop additions.
If you extend the boil, do it on the back end and still time the finishing hops as planned...does that make sense?
Late hops are timed w respect to flame out.
Your initial bittering addition can boil for 60 90 however long it takes to reach proper volume.
Late hops are timed to flame out whenever that needs to be.
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
Late hops are timed w respect to flame out.
Your initial bittering addition can boil for 60 90 however long it takes to reach proper volume.
Late hops are timed to flame out whenever that needs to be.
Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
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