Looking to move to a larger propane burner...any suggestions

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msa8967

mickaweapon
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I am currently using a Bayou SQ14 propane burner which I am very happy with for 5-8 gallon sized brews but I would like to add a larger burner/stand to be able to do two brewing session in tandem and be able to do larger brew sizes of 12-15 gallons more effectivley. Here are two larger burners (KAB4 and KAB6) from the amazon that I am thinking about. Anyone have thoughts to share on either of these burners or other ones they would reommend?



http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B7USOM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Amazon.com: Bayou Classic KAB4 High Pressure Banjo Cooker: Home & Garden
 
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Without question, my loyalty lies in these.

floor_standing_burner__63331_zoom.jpg
 
I am currently using a Bayou SQ14 propane burner which I am very happy with for 5-8 gallon sized brews but I would like to add a larger burner/stand to be able to do two brewing session in tandem and be able to do larger brew sizes of 12-15 gallons more effectivley. Here are two larger burners (KAB4 and KAB6) from the amazon that I am thinking about. Anyone have thoughts to share on either of these burners or other ones they would reommend?



Amazon.com: Bayou Classic KAB6 Bayou Cooker with Hose Guard: Home & Garden

Amazon.com: Bayou Classic KAB4 High Pressure Banjo Cooker: Home & Garden
I believe the actual burner is the same for both of those burners. The difference is with the pot support legs. The KAB6 has wider supports that give some leeway for using keggles that rely on the perimeter chimes for contact with the pot supports. The KAB4 only has ~1" to spare, from what I remember. Also, all of this is from memory, so I may have the models confused with something else, but the issue I described is a real one. I specifically bought the larger pot support model after using the smaller model. I believe the KAB6 is the newer version, made with input from homebrewers, of the KAB4, which may not even be made anymore.

There are more than a few threads of brew day catastrophes where keggles slipped off the KAB4.

You should be able to find the KAB6 for ~$100, or less, shipped. If you desire entry into the cult of Blichmann, the ~$40 upgrade to get the exact same burner in a different housing is a reasonably cheap initiation fee, considering what the upcharge is to get a Blichmann sticker put on most other things.

If you just want the actual burner to put in a stand or homemade housing, they can be had for ~$30.
 
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FYI, Blichmann burners are on back order until late January/early February . . .
 
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I must have looked at the pictures incorrectly when comparing the size of the burners and their output. From what I saw it appeared that the KAB6 had many more gas jets than the SQ14 model.

Amazon.com: Bayou Classic SQ14 Single Burner Outdoor Patio Stove: Home & Garden

I have a 100 qt aluminum pot that is not very steady when placed on the SQ14 stand.

By "both of those burners have the same actual burner", I meant the two you linked to earlier on Amazon, not those and the SQ14 you currently own. The SQ14 has a 6" burner of a similar design, but with fewer holes than the 10" burner in the KAB4 and KAB6.

I am not sure of the exact differences of the base/pot supports of the SQ14 vs. the KAB6, only that the KAB6 has a wider base/pot supports than the KAB4. I have used a ~20" diameter 100QT pot on the KAB6 without issues, although wider is always better when dealing with 150+ lbs of scalding hot liquid.

There are some that claim the 6" burner is superior to the 10" burner for BK/HLT purposes since it has a more concentrated flame that blooms less up the sides of the kettle at high output. The 10" burners cannot be used anywhere close to their max output under even a typical 100QT pot, so the theory is that the 6" at high outputs gets more heat into the kettle before it also blooms up the side of the pot at its max output. They both put out a crapload of heat.

I am still waiting to find a definitive answer to this question. You sound like the perfect candidate to carry out the test... after you buy a KAB6.

The KAB6 with its 10" burner does provide a more diffuse flame than the 6" at low settings, so it would for certain make a better burner for a direct fired MT.

Go to the source for more detailed specs. Their prices aren't bad either, but you may find it cheaper if you search.
http://bayouclassicdepot.com/single_propane_burner.htm
 
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My error in thinking the SQ14 had the same burner output as the KAB6. If I add a Bayou burner I think I would really rather have the KAB6 than the KAB4 based on your comments about the stronger base and redesigned features of a stronger frame. I have not closely looked at the Blichmann Floor Burner yet to see how large of a pot it is able to support.

Thanks for straightening out my reading errors about the SQ14 versus the KAB6.
 
The price for the KAB6 from the link you sent is very competitive with Amazon after shipping is taken into consideration. I don't mind spending a few extra dollars to support businesses that help support this forum.
 
The price for the KAB6 from the link you sent is very competitive with Amazon after shipping is taken into consideration. I don't mind spending a few extra dollars to support businesses that help support this forum.
I hear they have excellent customer support as well. Not really an issue with Amazon either, but dealing directly with the source at BCD, they can send you new parts to make things right vs. having to send the whole thing back and wait for a new one.
 
I have not closely looked at the Blichmann Floor Burner yet to see how large of a pot it is able to support.
Blichmann fanboys are kind of like Mac fanboys. They are simultaneously being laughed at, and laughing at the non-believers. There are occasionally some funny battles on here regarding Blichmann.

The KAB6 seems more rugged and simple, but the adjustable pot catcher/centering tabs on the Blichmann are a good idea, if they work. The adjustable reg vs. needle valve difference is a toss up. Best would be both for better flame control.
 
msa8967 said:
What features about the the Blichman do you really like? Is your burner set for LP or converted to natural gas?

I have the blichmann burners on my top tier, the burner is much larger than my SQ-14. The stainless steel wont rust away ir look corroded. It weights about twice as much as my old burner, is half the noise, twice the power, and about the same on propane. Love it as I do all my blichmann products.
 
fwiw, the two Amazon links provided in the original post may claim to represent two different burner models, but the images within the ads are for the identical model - which ever it is.

[edit] Looks like both Amazon ads picture the KAB4, as this ad shows the beefier KAB6...

I use Blingmann floor burners because I'm not a fan of paint fumes or rust...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
fwiw, the two Amazon links provided in the original post may claim to represent two different burner models, but the images within the ads are for the identical model - which ever it is.

I use Blingmann floor burners because I'm not a fan of paint fumes or rust...

Cheers!

+1
Plus my SQ-14's cross supports started showing fatigue and wear after only a year. That's with me keeping my equipment spotless.
 
What is the largest size brew sessions that your use your Blichmann for?

Does anyone know if the NG conversion kit for the Blichmann can be removed and the burner restored to LP or is the conversion permanent?
 
What is the largest size brew sessions that your use your Blichmann for?

Does anyone know if the NG conversion kit for the Blichmann can be removed and the burner restored to LP or is the conversion permanent?

The actual burner for the Blichmann and the KAB4/6, as well as several other burners, is the same BG14 burner. There will be virtually no difference in performance between the Blichmann and other burners using the same BG-14 burner. Same goes for NG conversion kits (which are a simple orifice swap), reg pressure effects, etc. The height of the pot above the burner can influence efficiency, but is very similar between models, and easily adjusted if you want.

As for batch size, I probably have your same 100qt pot. Mine is similar to the 100qt "Mega-Pot" sold in several online HBS. I have put ~20 gal to the fermenter with it, but usually ~19. Times to reach boil in the BK are within reason- 15 min or so. HLT times are bit longer to get to temp. More than likely you will see reduced max heat output using NG since it is only ~1/2 psi max vs. ~30psi for LP (or more but ~20psi is the usable limit). The issue with NG is getting enough air pulled in to the burner with the low orifice pressures. Some have also had to replace their household NG regulator to a higher flow model (on their own tab), and run larger dia. pipe to serve the burner.

The advantages of the Blichmann are its pot centering/catching tabs, and stainless frame. Some cult members have already commented on the SS aspect, but not the pot supports. The KAB6 frame will off gas some paint fumes during its first use, and can rust a bit, but so will the actual burner, which both have.

The BG14 burner itself (just the actual burner) can be purchased from several sources for ~$30.
 
There is a NG pipe outlet on the back stone patio of our house that the previous owners used for a grill. The NG aspect about the BK seemed like a good cost effective choice for doing larger sized brews since burners for used for 12-15 gallon sized brews use a lot of gas.
 
There is a NG pipe outlet on the back stone patio of our house that the previous owners used for a grill. The NG aspect about the BK seemed like a good cost effective choice for doing larger sized brews since burners for used for 12-15 gallon sized brews use a lot of gas.

As long as you can get enough heat out of the burner and into your pot with NG, it is about 1/2 the cost of LP for the same amount of energy, and no filling tanks. There is still the issue of getting enough flow/pressure out of your house NG reg, and through the length of the pipes to your brew area. There are many that have started down to NG path as a way to save money, only to find it cost more to finally get it running than they would ever save on LP. Same goes for switching to electric. There are convenience benefits to both, though.

Not trying to crap on the concept, but it's good to know the 'what ifs'. Running just one burner full out to get to a boil is close to some house's reg limit. Add either another burner in the HLT if you want to back to back, the house water heater, the furnace, wife using the stove, etc.; and you are easily close to or over the limit of a normal house reg. Search for some of those key words. I recently read several threads on this very issue where one guy had to replace his reg, another his pipes with bigger diam. ones, and another shuts off all other gas users while brewing.

Regardless of the gas choice, there are ways to increase the efficiency of your burner to pot transfer. I have a plan for a heat shroud to direct and shield the heat up the side of the pot. Very similar to the wind screens for pots that comes with backpacking stoves. The material is called 'tooling aluminum', and is similar to ultra heavy duty aluminum foil (because it is). Some tin flashing may also work.
 
[...]
The advantages of the Blichmann are its pot centering/catching tabs, and stainless frame. Some cult members have already commented on the SS aspect, but not the pot supports.[...]

Sorry, I missed that question. The stainless pot supports are a great design feature, adjust to accommodate pots from 14" to 20" in diameter (covering 10g through 30g vessels) providing positive pot centering and no worries about a pot slipping off the stand and scalding everything within the spill zone.

And, of course, it's Blingy!

Cheers! ;)
 
Several posters have commented that the LP burners in the BK and KAB6/KAB4 are practically the same. How often do people have to replace the burners?
BK= Brew Kettle, I assume you meant the Blichmann floor burner in the posted picture.

I think it may have been only me that said the burners were the same. Not because they are practically the same, but because they are exactly the same burner. It is known by a few names- BG-14, BG14, 10" banjo. The 10" burner and the 6" burner you already have are the most commonly used of the 'efficient' class of high power burners. There aren't many other prefab choices out there that use them besides the ones you have already found. If you make your own stand, there are other options, but most still seem to stick with these two.

The burner should last a lifetime of homebrewing, unless it is left outside. Either stand will last a lifetime as well, even if left outside. There is a chance the burner will develop a structural crack, or have a defective/thin part of the casting fail. The casting metal seems to be of low quality, and even good cast iron is brittle. They are not made to high standards, but what do you expect for $30?

It seems like you are overthinking the burner choice a bit. The KAB6 and the Blichmann will function almost identically. The only functional feature you lose with the KAB6 are the pot keeper tabs, but you could have some fixed ones added for <$20 at a welder. You could also make some adjustable ones out of some common type of clamp from a big box store. You may have to wait for the Blichmann, since according to the earlier post it is back ordered. It seems to me that the options are- if you need the burner now, get the KAB6. If you can wait, get whichever you prefer.
 
I agree that I am probably overthinking this but when I started brewing I told myself I would never do all grain (thought it would be too hard but it is really much easier than I thought.) I also told myself I would never go beyond 5 gallon kit brews which changed when I started having some success with my own recipe.

Two+ years later I brew about 10-25 gallons a month of all grain recipes I made or alter from this site. My friends consume about 1/2 of what I brew and now I have outgrown some of my initial equipment that I thought would be enough. I don't have any friends that brew so I am not sure how well some of this equipment works w/o asking for advice on the forum. It would be easier if there was a good LHBS within 1 hour drive.
 
Without question, my loyalty lies in these.

floor_standing_burner__63331_zoom.jpg

OK...I really think I am going to pull the trigger on the Blichman after the first of the year. However, I do not use a brew stand and would be getting the leg extensions kit. Does anyone have an opinion on the leg extension kit?

[Do to space considerations with a growing family I just won't have room for a brew stand.]
 
I have the leg extension set on one of my floor burners, but I modded them a bit for a wider stance, just because.
ab_jul_15_2011_02_sm.jpg

I drilled the extensions and original legs with mating bolt holes and used stainless hardware to bind them together. This just seemed way more stable than just replacing the original stubby legs with the long extensions with the stock stance, and indeed it's never come close to tipping.

I'm actually hoping to retire the extensions soon, as I've picked up the steel to build my single tier rig. Just trying to find the time to cut 'n' weld it up...

Cheers!
 
I really like the look of how you modified the extensions to improve stability. What size of mating bolts did you use? If you are planning on retiring these to move toward building your steel rig then would you have any interest in selling them? The back orders for the Blichmann burner are now into mid February.
 
I used 5/16-18 SS hardware, plenty heavy enough. Jigged my drill press for the holes which assured they'd all line up.

Burners, shields and stubby legs will end up in the new rig. If I don't use the extensions for build material I'll probably put them up for sale...

Cheers!
 
Blichmann fanboys are kind of like Mac fanboys. They are simultaneously being laughed at, and laughing at the non-believers. There are occasionally some funny battles on here regarding Blichmann.
The KAB6 seems more rugged and simple, but the adjustable pot catcher/centering tabs on the Blichmann are a good idea, if they work. The adjustable reg vs. needle valve difference is a toss up. Best would be both for better flame control.

I'm laughing at you. Tools each have their place and to call anyone a "fanboy" for purchasing a tool you either can't afford or don't see value in is rude. I own some Blichmann stuff and I rather enjoy using things that work well the first time without having to tinker and jerk around for days "tuning" something that should just work in the first place. I use 15.5G beer kegs as pots. Does that make me a fanboy of the brewery whose name is stamped on them?

Oh, and I wrote this on my MacBook just to be irritating.

What features about the the Blichman do you really like? Is your burner set for LP or converted to natural gas?

I like the fact that I don’t have to machine the stainless that's being used for the burner housing itself. My stuff is all stainless steel so it's nice to not have to go spend more hours in the shop making **** I can just buy for a fraction of the time and cost. It's set for LP right now. I'll be converting it to low pressure shortly with a custom orifice and using them on an automated brew stand. I’m using them the way they come at 10psi and they're working great. I did buy the NG conversions and will eventually use that when it’s hard lined into my next house. Best bet, buy the options you need. Blichmann has the conversions for you so you don’t have to jerk around with un-tested ****.

Another reason I purchased these burners was for resale potential. It's pretty hard to unload a stainless steel brew stand with built in burners on the best of days. Homebrewers are fickle and cheap (probably a reason why buddy keeps arguging about Blichmann). It's easier for me to sell things out in parts if I see the need one day. I have also built my burners so that they are removable for when I want to deep fry a turkey camping.

What is the largest size brew sessions that your use your Blichmann for? Does anyone know if the NG conversion kit for the Blichmann can be removed and the burner restored to LP or is the conversion permanent?

So far 20G pots are boiling without any problem. Haven't tested above that. The NG conversion is completely removable and you can revert to LP at any point. Big bonus for mobile brew stands such as the one I currently use.
The actual burner for the Blichmann and the KAB4/6, as well as several other burners, is the same BG14 burner. There will be virtually no difference in performance between the Blichmann and other burners using the same BG-14 burner. Same goes for NG conversion kits (which are a simple orifice swap), reg pressure effects, etc. The height of the pot above the burner can influence efficiency, but is very similar between models, and easily adjusted if you want.
You lose roughly 15% of your output when you move to NG. Height of the pot DOES influence efficency. No, its not similar in any respect and you'll be forced to modify your burners height depending on the make and model of the burner you select (that means, cutting, welding or fastening). Why do you think there are countless modification threads on these forums?
The advantages of the Blichmann are its pot centering/catching tabs, and stainless frame. Some cult members have already commented on the SS aspect, but not the pot supports. The KAB6 frame will off gas some paint fumes during its first use, and can rust a bit, but so will the actual burner, which both have.

My cult membership card promises no rust on my burners, and so far there has been none to mention. In addition, John Blichmann counted to infinity. Twice.

Not trying to crap on the concept, but it's good to know the 'what ifs'. Running just one burner full out to get to a boil is close to some house's reg limit. Add either another burner in the HLT if you want to back to back, the house water heater, the furnace, wife using the stove, etc.; and you are easily close to or over the limit of a normal house reg. Search for some of those key words. I recently read several threads on this very issue where one guy had to replace his reg, another his pipes with bigger diam. ones, and another shuts off all other gas users while brewing.

Again, the loss is around 15% meaning 15% longer heating times due to the lower BTU output of NG vs LP. There is a huge difference between the burners. Thats why Blichmann is selling them and they work very well for the purpose they are intended for. Also, the Blichmann burners run at 10psi, not 30. If you want to modify your stuff, you can get similar performance, but be prepared to cut your Bayou and do some testing work before you get to the point the Blichmann does.

I've tested the Bayou, 3 sizes of Jet burners and random other garbage from various homebrew shops. All required extensive modifications to get anywhere near a respectable level of performance. Yes they work, but time is money and I'd rather brew beer than jerk around with burners.
 
I'm laughing at you.
I can only refer to the 'simultaneously' portion of my previous post.

Tools each have their place and to call anyone a "fanboy" for purchasing a tool you either can't afford or don't see value in is rude.
It is called an opinion, consult your cult leader for yours. However, it is humorous that you start with the above statement, and then proceed with a novel length diatribe downplaying all non-Blichmann products as inferior and not "just working". I merely warned the OP to be wary of exactly this type of propaganda from Blichmann cult members when weighing the opinions.

I own some Blichmann stuff and I rather enjoy using things that work well the first time without having to tinker and jerk around for days "tuning" something that should just work in the first place.

I'll be converting it to low pressure shortly with a custom orifice.
What happened to everything Blichmann "just working", and not having to tinker with 'customizing' and 'tuning'.

Oh, and I wrote this on my MacBook just to be irritating.
I could have figured that out even without you stating it, and would have expected nothing less.

Blichmann has the conversions for you so you don&#8217;t have to jerk around with un-tested ****.
The NG conversion orifices for the BG14 Burners are the same size and are available from many online homebrew shops. Or, it can be done by simply drilling out the orifice. Of course Blich owners would still have to purchase an additional needle valve.

Another reason I purchased these burners was for resale potential. It's pretty hard to unload a stainless steel brew stand with built in burners on the best of days.
The resale issue is a strange one with both Mac and Blichmann, and a fact I will not dispute. One can buy an already overpriced sub-par performing new mac, use it for 2 years, and still sell it for 70% of the original price to some new cult member. Is this part of the initiation/hazing to join? It has baffled non-believers for years.

Homebrewers are fickle and cheap (probably a reason why buddy keeps arguging about Blichmann).
No, most of my stuff costs more than the equivalent Blichmann product, but then I freely admit that it is complete overkill and not worth the cost. It is just a reason I continue to make fun of Blich owners buying the same exact thing (Therminator, etc.) with a Blich sticker on it for a 50% to 300% markup. Many times for lower quality. The welds on the Hop Rocket I looked at were worse than most cheap Chinese stuff I see. As for the 'weldess' nonsense Blichmann has convinced the cult members as being superior, that is a whole other discussion.

Here is a good example of a 100% markup (or even more if one shops around) to get "Blichmann" stamped on the same chinese part:
Blichmann Hex Nipple 1/2 NPT
1/2" NPT Hex nipple Stainless

Height of the pot DOES influence efficency.
I believe I stated this, explicitly, and even prior to the quoted post. Is the screen on your mac book too small, or not "just working" correctly?

No, its not similar in any respect and you'll be forced to modify your burners height depending on the make and model of the burner you select (that means, cutting, welding or fastening).
Does that mean the Blich needs to be modified to be able to function properly as well, or is it made of magical material that auto-adjusts its height to the particular pot being used?

The Bayou and Blich housings are also almost identical in design related to actual burner operation, including burner to pot height, and have looked that way since before Blich Eng. existed. Take a wild guess as to who copied who. Out of the box both perform very similarly. For either model, lowering the burner height is no harder than drilling (4) 5/16" holes, if you want to play with it.

Every burner, regardless of the name on the sticker, will need to be modified for optimum performance since many factors such as pot diameter, max flame used, NG or LP, height off ground, etc, all influence the burner characteristics.

Why do you think there are countless modification threads on these forums?
I personally haven't seen countless burner mods for the KAB6 or Blichmann burners. For BG14 and jet tip burner based brew stands, yes. The standard boxed rig design is to blame for most of the issues with rigs using BG14s (or any burner), but if I talked about that I would incur the wrath of the cult of Brutus. The jet tips are a bad idea from the get go.

You lose roughly 15% of your output when you move to NG.
I see you have dutifully assimilated the Blichmann propaganda.
Seeing as it is only possible to use the BG14 burners at < 60% of max in real world situations under LP, one could just push some more NG through it to get back to the same useable output. Either way, the actual burner is EXACTLY THE SAME for both, so the performance would be very similar if not identical.

There is a huge difference between the burners. Thats why Blichmann is selling them and they work very well for the purpose they are intended for.
The burners themselves are IDENTICAL, as well as the housings being very similar, regardless of what the cult propaganda states.

Also, the Blichmann burners run at 10psi, not 30.
The Blich has an adj reg. The reg on the Bayou is fixed at 30psi, and the needle valve is used to adjust downstream pressure to the burner (more reliably and easily than an adjustable reg can). As I mentioned in a previous post, an even better approach would be to combine the two and have an adj reg and needle valve.

If you want to modify your stuff, you can get similar performance, but be prepared to cut your Bayou and do some testing work before you get to the point the Blichmann does.

I've tested the Bayou, 3 sizes of Jet burners and random other garbage from various homebrew shops. All required extensive modifications to get anywhere near a respectable level of performance. Yes they work, but time is money and I'd rather brew beer than jerk around with burners.
Which makes the need for you to have gone to the trouble of aquiring a 'custom' orifice that much more confusing, yet also explains your misconceptions about burners in general. Kind of like mac owners and their general lack of technical understanding of the devices they are using, it all makes sense now.

There is also more than one "Bayou" to choose from. We are talking about the KAB6. I could see how this could be confusing to a mac and Blich cult member used to having only a single choice available and all the tough decisions already made for them.

The KAB6 and the Blichmann both work very well and have very similarly burner performance out of the box, as they should since the only differnence is that the non-burner portion of the Blich is shinier and says "Blichmann" on the sticker.

I stated that the upcharge for the Blichmann wasn't that bad at $40, for the SAME EXACT burner with a different housing and adj reg (Blich) vs. fixed reg and needle valve control (Bayou). By the way, the fixed reg and needle valve is a better solution, and an adj. reg and needle valve is even better, as stated previously. No amount of "a one button mouse is superior" propaganda will change that fact either.

The Bayou KAB6 has wider base supports which the OP desired. The Blichmann has the 'pot catchers' which I admitted are a worthwhile feature. That being said, modifying the KAB6 to add pot catchers is easier than modifying the Blich to widen the base supports.
 
The OP already posted that the Blichmann was going to suffice for his needs. You've posted another reply full of miss information and anti-blichmann propoganda. Stop while you're ahead.
 
The OP already posted that the Blichmann was going to suffice for his needs.
I only provided factual information regarding the base burner (BG14) that is common to many complete burners to help simplify the OPs decision on whichever burner he chooses, along with a heads up when weighing product evaluations from Blichmann fanboys. I really don't care which burner the OP chooses, and neither should he since they are only superficially different.

You've posted another reply full of miss information and anti-blichmann propoganda. Stop while you're ahead.
I have never met this Miss Information you speak of, or know why you think my post is full of her. I haven't posted any negative Blichmann product information, and even touted the benefits of the Blichmann model. I am not sure why I am ahead, or will be behind if I don't stop.
 
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