Looking for ideas of what to make with these ingredients.

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Jezwald101

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Hello all. Looking for suggestions on what to make with these ingredients. I am using a 3 vessel brewing style with a fly sparge and boiling with an anvil foundry electric kettle.
 

AlexKay

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Baltic porter! For a 5-gallon batch:
10 pounds of pale ale malt
4 pounds of brewer's 2-row
1 pound of amber
1 pound 60L
0.5 pounds Carafa II Special
0.25 pounds chocolate wheat

1/2 ounce Columbus @ 60
1 ounce Willamette (or Goldings) @ 0

and a neutral lager yeast, or (if you don't ferment cold) Lallemand Nottingham.
 
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Jezwald101

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Thanks for that. Porter sounds pretty good. All I have is us05 yeast at the moment. Forgot to mention that on the original post.
 

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Or a hoppy stout:
10 pounds pale ale
1 pound chocolate wheat
0.5 pounds roasted barley
0.5 pounds 60L

0.25 oz Galena @ 60
0.25 oz Galena @ 10
0.25 oz Calypso @ 10
0.25 oz Galena hop stand
0.25 oz Calypso hop stand

(For a different, and probably more traditional, approach to hopping, you could bitter with Columbus and then use Centennial for flavor/aroma. But I've had good results with Calypso in stouts.)
 
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Jezwald101

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Or a hoppy stout:
10 pounds pale ale
1 pound chocolate wheat
0.5 pounds roasted barley
0.5 pounds 60L

0.25 oz Galena @ 60
0.25 oz Galena @ 10
0.25 oz Calypso @ 10
0.25 oz Galena hop stand
0.25 oz Calypso hop stand

(For a different, and probably more traditional, approach to hopping, you could bitter with Columbus and then use Centennial for flavor/aroma. But I've had good results with Calypso in stouts.)
That sounds pretty good too..
 
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Jezwald101

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Baltic porter! For a 5-gallon batch:
10 pounds of pale ale malt
4 pounds of brewer's 2-row
1 pound of amber
1 pound 60L
0.5 pounds Carafa II Special
0.25 pounds chocolate wheat

1/2 ounce Columbus @ 60
1 ounce Willamette (or Goldings) @ 0

and a neutral lager yeast, or (if you don't ferment cold) Lallemand Nottingham.
So I decided to make this.my og is at 1.068. I fly sparged and got the grain bed down to 1.023. Before I was gonna have to much water to boil. I've got 6.5 gallons to boil down to 5.25 gallons. Does this seem correct . Thanks
 

IslandLizard

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So I decided to make this.my og is at 1.068. I fly sparged and got the grain bed down to 1.023. Before I was gonna have to much water to boil. I've got 6.5 gallons to boil down to 5.25 gallons. Does this seem correct . Thanks
1.068 is excellent! But that's preboil right?
It's OG after the boil, what goes into the fermenter. ;)

Yes, you should stop sparging once you reach your intended preboil gravity OR volume.

So you've got 1-1.25 gallons to boil off, evaporate. A gallon an hour is pretty average, but depends on heat source and a few other things.

Many of us aim at 5.25-5.5 gallons in the fermenter, so we end up with 5 gallons to package, depending on how much trub there's in the fermenter.
With an expected 0.25-0.5 gallon of kettle trub, that means a post boil volume of 5.5-6.0 gallons (in the kettle).
 
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Jezwald101

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1.068 is excellent! But that's preboil right?
It's OG after the boil, what goes into the fermenter. ;)

Yes, you should stop sparging once you reach your intended preboil gravity OR volume.

So you've got 1-1.25 gallons to boil off, evaporate. A gallon an hour is pretty average, but depends on heat source and a few other things.

Many of us aim at 5.25-5.5 gallons in the fermenter, so we end up with 5 gallons to package, depending on how much trub there's in the fermenter.
With an expected 0.25-0.5 gallon of kettle trub, that means a post boil volume of 5.5-6.0 gallons (in the kettle).
Yes that's pre boil. I'm boiling in an anvil foundry 10.5 . At 220v. It get a pretty good rigorous boil at 85% power. So the fermenter og should go up after I boil off a gallon correct?
 

IslandLizard

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Yes that's pre boil. I'm boiling in an anvil foundry 10.5 . At 220v. It get a pretty good rigorous boil at 85% power.
You don't need a wild rolling boil, a good simmer (surface rippling) is plenty.

So the fermenter og should go up after I boil off a gallon correct?
Yes, the gravity will go up as the volume decreases due to boil off:
1.068 = 68 points / gallon
6.5 gallons * 68 points/gallon / 5.5 gallons = 80 points / gallon
80 points / gallon = 1.080

So your OG will be around 1.080.
You'll need to pitch 2 packs of dry yeast...
 
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Jezwald101

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I've got 22 minutes left in the hour boil and I still have just over 6 gallons in the boil. Thanks for your help islandlizard.. I will pull another us05 out of fridge.
 
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Jezwald101

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Should I just boil longer. ? My ph of the mash is 5.1. That ok? Wow. Didnt expect to make a 1.080 beer . Rookie 3 vessel brewer here. Usually just make tea in the anvil. Going pretty well so far I think. So if I left 1.023 in the mash tun . Means my efficiency is down correct?
 

IslandLizard

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I've got 22 minutes left in the hour boil and I still have just over 6 gallons in the boil. Thanks for your help islandlizard.. I will pull another us05 out of fridge.
I just love these interactive threads!
You're brewing while asking ad hoc questions on the next step. Beautiful!

Should I just boil longer. ?
Sure you can! As long as you always add your late hop additions counting back from flameout (flameout being 0 minutes). In your recipe there are no late hops until flameout anyway, so it's very easy.
IOW, at flameout you'll add your (Willamette) 0-minute hops and turn on your chiller. ;)
 

IslandLizard

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Going pretty well so far I think.
I'd say so!
So if I left 1.023 in the mash tun . Means my efficiency is down correct?
That number doesn't have much to do with (mash) efficiency, your pre-boil gravity (and volume) does. The be exact, how many points you extracted from the grist.

With 1.023 left, you can do probably do a little better with sparging, but it's not a real big issue.

It can be difficult to "fly sparge" in an AIO unit. Especially the ones where the mash basket has mesh sides. The solid sided mash pipes with just mesh on the bottom can work a little better in that regard.

But the key to fly sparging is to do it slowly, very little throughput, it's all about the balance of water added on the top and wort slowly seeping out the bottom. When fly sparging it should take about an hour to collect your sparge, not 10 minutes. ;)
And that's more difficult with smaller batches/systems.

Many will do a batch sparge by dunking the bag or basket. But you'll need an extra vessel (large bucket) to do that. It only takes about 5-10 minutes.
 
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Jezwald101

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My og was 1.078 going into the fermenter. You were spot on. Added the two packs of us05 and into the fermentation chamber with temp set to 64 degrees. Chilled it a little to long . It was down to 56 degrees going into the fermenter. Installed the airlock .
 
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Jezwald101

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So I kegged it a week ago. And took a hydrometer reading of it also. At 1.014. So I ended up with a 8.2% abv .. and it tastes pretty darn good . Took some samples to a beer club meeting and gave some out and they all thought it was pretty good too. Thanks for all the help.
 

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So I kegged it a week ago. And took a hydrometer reading of it also. At 1.014. So I ended up with a 8.2% abv .. and it tastes pretty darn good . Took some samples to a beer club meeting and gave some out and they all thought it was pretty good too. Thanks for all the help.
LET

IT

AGE

... Seriously! Wait a year! Have one every other month and enjoy the development in the bottle.
 
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