+1I'm on day 8 of a 10 day dry hop of an IPA I'm doing. I threw pelletized Cascade right into the secondary. My plan is to simply cover the end of my auto-siphon with a bit of sanitized nylon stocking. Hopefully the stocking will catch most of the pieces; if a few little bits make it into the bottles I won't be heartbroken.
"B" is the better choice. I like to dryhop for only about 5-7 days (sometimes as long as 10 if I have to) right before bottling.Hi,
On a related note, I just brewed a Rye P.A. yesterday. I'm headed out of town for three weeks on Wednesday and wondering how to approach this...?
A. Rack to secondary before I leave and let the dry hop sit longer than I'd like to.
B. Let it set in primary until I get home and dry hop for a week then.
C. Forget about dry hopping, bottle when I get home, and think ahead before brewing my next batch.
Any advice appreciated.
what if you dont have the facilities to cold crash?I rack the beer to a secondary 5 gallon carboy. I usually dry hop with pellets. I just dump them into the secondary for about a week. Then I cold crash the carboy for about 3 days and then rack to a keg. Works great for me.
Where on the post do you tie the floss?Montanaandy said:If I dry hop in the keg, I place the pellet or leaf into a paint strainer bag and tie it off with dental floss (I Star San the bag & floss). Tie to the keg post, drop into keg, rack beer into keg. I don't remove it until I have killed the keg. You can weigh the bag down if you like but I find that once the hops get saturated they sink.