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Dude

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By the graciousness of a fellow member and renowned expert of both commercial and home brewing, Brewpastor gave me a pump to integrate into my rig. It is a March model MDX-MT3. I've been unable to find much as far as instructions on it, and before I go full steam ahead I need to know a little bit about how they work.

1. How do I prime it so I don't let it run dry?

2. Are the heads on these things all pretty much interchangeable? I like the design of the replacement heads sold in the online LHBS a bit better for my system than the one it has currently. I mean I can make it work, but optimally...

3. GFCI outlet, ALWAYS, correct?

4. What else do I need to know about it?
 
If you are going to pump hot wort with it you might want to make sure it can go to that temp, just a quick google show it to 190 in temp. But you may be able to change the head out with one that can with stand high temps.
I have the model 90 and love it, right now I am just pumping thru the shirron with it but later I might do a RIMS or HERMS with it.
 
Brewiz said:
If you are going to pump hot wort with it you might want to make sure it can go to that temp, just a quick google show it to 190 in temp. But you may be able to change the head out with one that can with stand high temps.
I have the model 90 and love it, right now I am just pumping thru the shirron with it but later I might do a RIMS or HERMS with it.


200'F Page 11 of the catalog!!!

http://www.marchpump.com/
 
how do you regulate the pressure and output for something like fly sparging?

Im seriously considering building my rig around the idea of using a pump instead of gravity.
 
Chimone said:
how do you regulate the pressure and output for something like fly sparging?

Im seriously considering building my rig around the idea of using a pump instead of gravity.

You would want to use a pressure regulator. I think a steam regulator would be right for sparge temps. I think the lower temp bronze and brass might work too.

The pressure required would be quite low. My house water is maxed out 60 psi.

I bet 15-20psi would be more than adequate.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Search for pressure regulators.

:mug:
 
I just got a pump myself and am hooking it up tomorrow. My original plan to control flow was to put a ball valve on the outlet. I cruised the web and saw some comments suggesting your pump would be happier if you don't restrict flow that way. What someone suggested and what I'm going to do is to put Tees before and after the pump and then interconnect the Tees (basically a pump bypass) and install a valve in that loop. This way I should be able to keep backpressure to a minimum. The more I open the loop valve, the more the wort will just recirculate in the loop. Close the valve more, and the more it goes to where ever I'm sending it.

I don't have any kind of tier system yet. I'm going to mount the pump on the edge of a large board that will accomodate my Tun or boil pot and accomodate all of the plumbing. I plan on using the pump to recirculate to do the vorlauf. There will be a second Tee after the loop (with valves) so when I'm happy with the vorlauf, I can change the switches and send the wort into a bucket. Then I schlep that outside to the boil pot.

When the boil is over, I'll put the boil pot on the pump board and use the pump to move the wort through my plate chiller and back to the boil pot. I'll rig up the return such that it creates a whirlpool for me. When the wort is suficiently cool, the again, change the switches and send it to my carboy.

I can't wait to play with the new system!:ban:
 
Bobby_M said:
I tend to think sparging lends itself more to gravity drain. No harm in getting your HLT up a little higher.


but I was thinking of just keeping them all on the same level, which means I would need a pump.
 
pjj2ba said:
I cruised the web and saw some comments suggesting your pump would be happier if you don't restrict flow that way.


If its a centrifugal pump a restriction doesn't matter that much. They are meant to give way or stall under back pressure. You can't really regulate pressure with a ball valve all you really do is limit flow. Regulators are for that very purpose - regulating pressure. I don't think you want turbulance at sparging.
 
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