Leaky weldless fittings

[Tomtanner]

Hello gents

This is a picture of my future HLT.



Unfortunately I think I might have drilled my holes a little to close to indention surrounding the bottom of the keg and my weldless ball valve is leaky. I have tried to make it less tight, more tight and even put a gasket on the outside of the keg in addition to the inside.

Has anyone ever done this and found a way to fix it? I can weld but not aluminum or stainless.

Do I have any other option besides buying a plug and drilling a new hole? I hate drilling these freaking holes in kegs!

 

[tasq]

You indeed drilled too low.

Try the wider silicone washer http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=42&product_id=105

 

[carlisle_bob]

Hi

My vote would be to patch it and drill a new hole. That one is going to be a problem forever ....

Bob

 

[eastoak]

take it to a welder, that's what i did anyway.

 

[garbageman]

+1. A few bucks at a welder and it will be solved.

 

[tasq]

Make sure the shop knows how to Tig weld stainless and backgas!

 

[wyzazz]

Or you could buy some StayClean Flux and solder it.

 

[Bobby_M]

Grind a roundover on the bottom edge of the interior locknut?

 

[garbageman]

I had one slightly on the radius. Beat the snot out of the edge and worked it flat. It worked.

 

[Bobby_M]

I have a little more time to type now. Remove the inside gasket and then dry fit it again and notice where the bottom edge of the locknut is hitting the curve. Grind a nice radius on that corner of the locknut. Dry fit again and grind again until it follows the curve of the keg. Put the gasket back on and tighten everything up (leave the outside gasket out).

I'll echo my usual mantra on the welding thing... Finding a good competent TIG welder who has the time to weld something for you for five bucks or a six pack may be a bigger myth than hot side aeration.

 

[eastoak]

I have a little more time to type now. Remove the inside gasket and then dry fit it again and notice where the bottom edge of the locknut is hitting the curve. Grind a nice radius on that corner of the locknut. Dry fit again and grind again until it follows the curve of the keg. Put the gasket back on and tighten everything up (leave the outside gasket out).

I'll echo my usual mantra on the welding thing... Finding a good competent TIG welder who has the time to weld something for you for five bucks or a six pack may be a bigger myth than hot side aeration.

very true, and funny.

 

[Tomtanner]

Hey guys thank you for the tips! My brew kettle is fairing a little better but still drilled a little too close to the indention. On this one I have a gasket on the inside and outside is this technically ok or will the heat from the burners melt the exterior gasket?

Rookie mistakes on both my hlt and bk unfortunately.

 

[Chrisl77]

As long as it doesnt come in contact with direct flames it should be fine. That leak looks like it is coming from the threads. Did you put any teflon tape on the threads?

 

[Bobby_M]

Take a pic of the interior of that bulkhead. There shouldn't be any way for the water to get to the threads.

 

[Tomtanner]

I have a little more time to type now. Remove the inside gasket and then dry fit it again and notice where the bottom edge of the locknut is hitting the curve. Grind a nice radius on that corner of the locknut. Dry fit again and grind again until it follows the curve of the keg. Put the gasket back on and tighten everything up (leave the outside gasket out).

I'll echo my usual mantra on the welding thing... Finding a good competent TIG welder who has the time to weld something for you for five bucks or a six pack may be a bigger myth than hot side aeration.

Cool. So the problem is on the inside not the outside?

 

[Tomtanner]

Take a pic of the interior of that bulkhead. There shouldn't be any way for the water to get to the threads.

Here you go.





A little blurry but it's getting dark.

 

[wyzazz]

I don't see any teflon tape on those threads, did you not use any? If not you need to put 4-5 turns on everything that has a male thread on it. That will stop it from leaking.

 

[Tomtanner]

I don't see any teflon tape on those threads, did you not use any? If not you need to put 4-5 turns on everything that has a male thread on it. That will stop it from leaking.

Will it be ok if it's exposed to the hot liquid in bk mt hlt? Or have any adverse affects on flavor? Sorry clueless noob over here

 

[wyzazz]

Will it be ok if it's exposed to the hot liquid in bk mt hlt? Or have any adverse affects on flavor? Sorry clueless noob over here

No worries, it'll be just fine in your wort. No flavor, color, nasties leeching in to your finished beer from the teflon tape.

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't know where you got that 1/2" bulkhead from but that design is prone to leaking. Liquid goes between the coupling and metal washer, hits the threads and spirals all the way through. The only way to stop it is to wrap the threads with obnoxious amounts of teflon tape until the valleys are full.

 

[dutchoven]

I would get rid of all those shim washers and look into these from bargainfittings http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=178

I use them for all my bulkheads ... One gasket on the outside; the soldered washer prevents leaking through the threads. So far 100% leak free ... IMO, these are the best weldless fittings on the market for the price ...

 

[Tomtanner]

Ok so I'm an idiot and the Teflon fixed all but one leak. The only leak left is the main ball valve in my hlt. Going to try the advice given.


On a separate note, I'll putting the finishing touches on my brew kettle and would like to discuss some options. I have a plate chiller and will be using ice water that will kept in my hlt so that I can use my pumps to continually recirculate the cold water through the chiller. I originally thought about recirculating my wort after boil at the same time do that I can get the temp down to the desired level prior to pumping to my fermenter and pitching my yeast.

The problem I thought that could arise is that I
could be recirculating my wort back into bk where it will mix back in with the leftover sediment from my boil. Do you guys have any thoughts on the best way to execute this?

 

[wyzazz]

Ok so I'm an idiot and the Teflon fixed all but one leak. The only leak left is the main ball valve in my hlt. Going to try the advice given.


On a separate note, I'll putting the finishing touches on my brew kettle and would like to discuss some options. I have a plate chiller and will be using ice water that will kept in my hlt so that I can use my pumps to continually recirculate the cold water through the chiller. I originally thought about recirculating my wort after boil at the same time do that I can get the temp down to the desired level prior to pumping to my fermenter and pitching my yeast.

The problem I thought that could arise is that I
could be recirculating my wort back into bk where it will mix back in with the leftover sediment from my boil. Do you guys have any thoughts on the best way to execute this?

Glad the teflon worked for you!

Some thoughts on your process:

I'd use cold water in the HLT first to knock the heat of the wort down first and once you get to 100F or so then add your ice, otherwise you're just wasting the ice IMHO.

If you're worried about the sediment/break material that is left in the kettle than you can whirlpool back in to the kettle until your temps are where you want them, kill the pump and allow the wort to settle for 15mins, then pump in to your fermenter.

 

[Tomtanner]

Glad the teflon worked for you!

Some thoughts on your process:

I'd use cold water in the HLT first to knock the heat of the wort down first and once you get to 100F or so then add your ice, otherwise you're just wasting the ice IMHO.

If you're worried about the sediment/break material that is left in the kettle than you can whirlpool back in to the kettle until your temps are where you want them, kill the pump and allow the wort to settle for 15mins, then pump in to your fermenter.

Great thanks for the tip! So with whirlpooling what would be the most ideal way to setup my keggle? I'm certain I would need to add another port or valve and set my dip tubes in opposite directions and use my pump to circulate..... Is that correct? What would be the optimal height for the additional valve or port where I would circulate the wort back into the keg after going through the chiller or pump?

 

[wyzazz]

Great thanks for the tip! So with whirlpooling what would be the most ideal way to setup my keggle? I'm certain I would need to add another port or valve and set my dip tubes in opposite directions and use my pump to circulate..... Is that correct? What would be the optimal height for the additional valve or port where I would circulate the wort back into the keg after going through the chiller or pump?

I don't know if it's the most ideal, but if you're worried about the break material than that's the easiest way to keep it out of the fermenter. You could add another fitting to the keg to whirlpool if you want, I took a simpler approach. I made a "wand" out of 1/2" copper fittings, put a 45 on the and and angled it slightly. I use that to stick in my kettle to whirlpool and when I'm done I stick it in to the fermenter. The wand reaches down to about the 4 gallon mark for a 6gallon finished batch size, but I don't think that's very critical at all.

 

[wyzazz]

Great thanks for the tip! So with whirlpooling what would be the most ideal way to setup my keggle? I'm certain I would need to add another port or valve and set my dip tubes in opposite directions and use my pump to circulate..... Is that correct? What would be the optimal height for the additional valve or port where I would circulate the wort back into the keg after going through the chiller or pump?

I don't know if it's the most ideal, but if you're worried about the break material than that's the easiest way to keep it out of the fermenter. You could add another fitting to the keg to whirlpool if you want, I took a simpler approach. I made a "wand" out of 1/2" copper fittings, put a 45 on the and and angled it slightly. I use that to stick in my kettle to whirlpool and when I'm done I stick it in to the fermenter. The wand reaches down to about the 4 gallon mark for a 6gallon finished batch size, but I don't think that's very critical at all.

 

[Tomtanner]

Just to update I used a lot of Teflon and that fixed 99% of my leaks with my ball valves. Today I finally had some time to calibrate and add my measurements to my sight glasses. Bobby M. I'm very pleased with my purchase, thanks again. Looking forward to getting this project up and running!

 

[nickelmcgee]

Guys,


JB Weld:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12772469759438252992#

I use this stuff on all my weldless fitting, whether they leaked or not. Having been using for several years with zero leaks. Stuff is super easy to work with and can be removed if you absolutely have to redo.

 

[carlisle_bob]

Guys,


JB Weld:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12772469759438252992#

I use this stuff on all my weldless fitting, whether they leaked or not. Having been using for several years with zero leaks. Stuff is super easy to work with and can be removed if you absolutely have to redo.

Hi

.... but how's it's taste?

Bob

 

[nickelmcgee]

Since i only put it on the outside of the kettles, i've never had (wanted) to taste it.

 

[carlisle_bob]

Since i only put it on the outside of the kettles, i've never had (wanted) to taste it.

Hi

Somebody reading this and deciding you ment to use it internaly was my concern. You have cleared that up - thanks.

Bob