Of course it is if you have the room! Just keep in mine that you want to ferment around 50-52 degrees, and lager in the 30s, so try to have the batches in the same time period.Is it possible to lager more than one batch in a fridge or a freezer at one time? I guess I would have to do two batches at a time..
When is good time for priming and bottling, before or after this lagering period?Lagering temps: From either primary temp or diacetyl rest temp, lower the temp to lagering temps (33-34dF) by about 5 degrees per day. If you crash cool it, you might shock too much yeast out of suspension.... they still need to work during lagering. Lager for about 7 days per 8 points of gravity. So, a 1.048 OG beer would be 6 to 7 weeks lagering.
It's better to lager to-be-bottled lagers at atmospheric pressure (not in bottle), then prime, bottle, and carbonate for a few weeks. You have to wait a long time for lagers!When is good time for priming and bottling, before or after this lagering period?
Unless you have a specific need for it (can't think of an example), this isn't necessary. Lagering, in a sense, is secondary fermentation. Once the primary fermentation is complete (including diacetyl rest), there is nothing to be done but lager (then bottle). Depending on how dextrinous your wort is, you will lose another point or two of gravity during lagering. This is because lager yeast have the ability to ferment a few more types of sugar molecules that ale yeasts can't ferment. They do this slowly during lagering, in addition to cleaning up other compounds.One more question: is there any room for secondary fermentation in this lagering scheme? I might want to rack the beer to secondary fermentor after diacetyl rest, before lagering...
Well, your scheme is quite similar to this descibed by menschmashine, only the temps are a bit different.You are going to hear a billion different ways to lager your beer and all billion of them will work.
Yeah, that's pretty much what I do. Except I try to calculate my lagering time based on the dextrinity (word?) of the wort.I try to keep it simple and since i am an impatient beer drinker i primary for two weeks at 50. Two day D rest at room temp. Three degree walk down to 33. Then i lager as long as i can before my beer addiction makes me drink it. I am a new lagerer (if that is a word) but my last one was one of my top two beers ever.
It's fine at room temp. The flavor profile has been "set" and it'll be fine at either room temp (within reason) or cellar temps. When you bottle lagers, you keep them at room temperature to carbonate for at least three weeks. With a keg, you may not be priming to carbonate, but the room temperature storage will be fine.Once the largering is done and I rack to a keg. How should I store the keg? Does it have to be refridgerated or can it be stored in room temp?
No, I don't think anyone is suggesting that. Lagers should be taken off the trub as soon as possible after fermentation (and diacetyl rest, if applicable) is complete. If it were in a conical fermenter, you could just dump the trub. But most of us need to rack it to a secondary.Let me see if I understand this. Are some of you recommending lagering in the primary - on the trub? My routine has been to let fermentation run it's course (3 to 5 weeks) then rack to a carboy for lagering. My temp control isn't fine enough to allow me to lower the temp slowly. I ferment in my crawl space where the temp is between 35 and 45 during the winter. I wrap a heating pad around the bucket during fermentation to keep it warm and then just put the secondary back in the crawl space. Would you recommend that I just remove the heating pad from the bucket rather than racking to secondary?
Exactly! When fermentation is complete, the beer should be racked (or as Mensch said, in a conical, the trub should be dumped). Rather, the beer should be racked after the diacetyl rest, since the yeast cake is needed for that rest. As soon as that is complete, though, the beer should be racked and then the lagering can begin. Ideally, it would be a gradual temperature change, but since your crawl space doesn't have that ability, that's fine.No, I don't think anyone is suggesting that. Lagers should be taken off the trub as soon as possible after fermentation (and diacetyl rest, if applicable) is complete. If it were in a conical fermenter, you could just dump the trub. But most of us need to rack it to a secondary.
how much yeast did you pitch?I am fermenting an American Lager yeast WYEAST 2112 and my swamp cooler with the fermenter in it. The temp now is at 49F and the website states the min temp is 58F is this an issue for me? BTW it hasn't started bubbling yet. which is not an issue yet since is has only been 12 hours.
edit; my cooler is almost full to the top with plain water no ice. should i be taking some of volume of water out of the bucket? Maybe half full?
if this is for a 5 gallon batch, that may not be enough yeast. most people make a starter when doing lager beers. a starter is a miniature batch of unhopped beer that is made to increase the yeast population.the entire pouch of WYEAST 2112. 4 1/4 ounces or 128 grams.
Sounds like you've got a plan. You could just put the whole thing in a water bath with no ice and let it ride. The water bath will keep the ferment from creeping up in the 70s, which can happen if ambient is 67-68.thanks, actually since I am using WYEAST 2112 California Lager yeast which the mfg say the temp range is 58-68 degrees F, so I might leave it at room temp for a while since my house is near 68.
You can totally hop a starter. In fact my starters are basically a half batch of low gravity, lightly hopped beer. I know some folks that draw a quart or two of wort at the end of brewday and pitch into that and let the rest of the wort come down to lager ferm temp in the fridge overnight. By the next morning the "starter" is at high krausen and ready to go on the full batch.A starter is a miniature batch of unhopped beer that is made to increase the yeast population.
I just did this clone of 'Anchor Steam Beer' which uses California Lager yeast that is good up to 68F. I am sure that I left something out but give it a try.Any suggestions regarding a great recipe for a guy who has been doing IPA'S and Stouts?
btw, make a starter, my yeast took 48 hours to kick in.I just did this clone of 'Anchor Steam Beer' which uses California Lager yeast that is good up to 68F. I am sure that I left something out but give it a try.
OG 1.050 IBU 45 SRM 18
1.Steep 14 oz of 80L crystal malt for 20 minutes in 1/2 gallon 150F water. 2.Strain and then sparge with 1/2 gallon of 150F water.
3.Add water to the brew pot to make 1.5 gallons and bring to a boil. 4.Remove pot from heat and add;
4lb of pale malt syrup
2.75lbs of light DME
1.25oz northern brewer 8%
5.Add water to bring to 2.5 gallons and boil for 45 minutes.
6.Add 1/2oz northern brewer hops and and 1 tbs irish moss boil for 14 minutes
7.Add 1/2oz northern brewer hops and boil for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let sit for 15 minutes and strain and then add enough water to equel 5 gallons.
8.Pitch WYEAST 2112 California Lager yeast.