Lager Fermentation

[sp4rkman]

Hi,

I'm a new after receiving a brew kit for Chrsitmas. I'm currently brewing my first beer, a lager using the All In Brewing fresh wort kit.

It's been in the fermenter for 14 days now at 12degrees using ink bird controller in a old wine fridge. I checked the gravity last night and if i'm reading it correctly, its approximately 1.008. Is that correct?

When I should i start Diacetyl rest or have i left it too late? ? I've read you should start at 2-5 points within terminal gravity so I think i've missed the mark?

After Diacetyl rest i'm planning on cold crashing. and lagering for a few weeks before bottling.

I'm going about this wrong?

JS

 

[VikeMan]

I checked the gravity last night and if i'm reading it correctly, its approximately 1.080. Is that correct?

I think you mean 1.008. Maybe more like 1.009 or 1.010, reading the bottom of the meniscus.

When I should i start Diacetyl rest or have i left it too late? ? I've read you should start at 2-5 points within terminal gravity so I think i've missed the mark?

It's not too late.

After Diacetyl rest i'm planning on cold crashing. and lagering for a few weeks before bottling.

Do you have a way to prevent sucking air into the fermenter when you cold crash? If not, I wouldn't recommend it. Same with lagering in a fermenter. Lagering in a bottle isn't ideal, but I'd do that rather than crash/lager without excluding O2.

 

[sp4rkman]

yes, I did mean 1.008 and amended shortly after posting.

So should I start Diacetyl rest now?

After DR, I could keg it, then lager for several weeks instead of bottling? Do you apply carbonation when lagering or only after

 

[VikeMan]

So should I start Diacetyl rest now?

I would. Or, if you don't smell or taste diacetyl in the sample, you could skip it. But be aware that it could still be forming from its precursor α-acetolactate, if there is any remaining in the beer. The purpose of the D-Rest is to accelerate the conversion to diacetyl, then reabsorption by the yeast.

After DR, I could keg it, then lager for several weeks instead of bottling?

That would be a good option.

Do you apply carbonation when lagering or only after

You can carbonate while lagering. It won't hurt anything.

 

[Christoff]

Do you have a way to prevent sucking air into the fermenter when you cold crash? If not, I wouldn't recommend it. Same with lagering in a fermenter. Lagering in a bottle isn't ideal, but I'd do that rather than crash/lager without excluding O2.

What is the best way to avoid this?

 

[TheCache]

You can search: preventing suck back, mylar balloon, or cold crash guardian on these forums for some discussion of methods for preventing suck back. The idea is to use some form of bladder that fills with CO2 by collecting the off gassing from beer while in fermentation, then pulls that CO2 back in while you crash the beer. However, if you had not connected it prior to fermentation there will be no way for it to fill (unless you have a CO2 tank laying around).

As @VikeMan said, if you can't prevent it, then you are better off bottling the beer, allowing it to carbonate, and then lagering (cold storing) the bottles. That will perform the same function as the crash, but the sediment will be at the bottom of the bottles so pour carefully.

Then you can work on cold crash options for your next beer, while enjoying the fruits of your labor.

 

[Chorgey]

What is the best way to avoid this?

Get a Cold Crash Guardian from brewhardware.com

 

[Christoff]

Get a Cold Crash Guardian from brewhardware.com

Thanks!

 

[Christoff]

You can search: preventing suck back, mylar balloon, or cold crash guardian on these forums for some discussion of methods for preventing suck back. The idea is to use some form of bladder that fills with CO2 by collecting the off gassing from beer while in fermentation, then pulls that CO2 back in while you crash the beer. However, if you had not connected it prior to fermentation there will be no way for it to fill (unless you have a CO2 tank laying around).

As @VikeMan said, if you can't prevent it, then you are better off bottling the beer, allowing it to carbonate, and then lagering (cold storing) the bottles. That will perform the same function as the crash, but the sediment will be at the bottom of the bottles so pour carefully.

Then you can work on cold crash options for your next beer, while enjoying the fruits of your labor.

I’ve spent countless hours on the internet. I tend to like to collect as much info as possible. There is plenty of not-so great info out there so the more I can find the better. Why not go straight to the horses mouth? Plus, many people on here have great alternative ideas, debunking myths, and quick fix diy solutions. That’s why I ask questions. If one were to solely stick to the brew wrap pages there would be no need for this page or forum.

 

[TheCache]

I use a cold crash guardian from brewhardware.com works great. Others use mylar balloons and have good results.

I mentioned searching on this forum, not the general Internet. This forum should yield much more focused results.

 

[hottpeper13]

I cold crash in the keg with CO2 at 33* NO suckback!

 

[Immocles]

+1 for the cold crash guardian. It's probably not too difficult to rig something up yourself with some tubing and a ballon, but I think it cost under 20 bucks anyways. it works great for what its intended, and you can use the leftover gas to keg/bottle without opening the fermenter, as well.

 

[BillyDoster]

I'm new here, but reading the features of brewing is like flying into space for me))) I hope I will start taking the first steps gradually))

 

[VikeMan]

I'm new here, but reading the features of brewing is like flying into space for me))) I hope I will start taking the first steps gradually))

This thread happens to be about things you probably shouldn't be worried about for your first batch(es). i.e. I'd recommend starting with ales (not lagers) and don't try cold crashing at first.

And I'd recommend getting a copy of the book "How to Brew" if you haven't already.

 

[ExpatPete]

I am also a newer brewer with Batch #7, my first lager a Czech Pils currently in diacetly rest. I wanted to add my two cents on the post above recommending John Palmer's "How To Brew". It is excellent, as technical as you want but you don't have to dive into the science if that does not interest you at this point. I also bought the other classic brewing book, "The Complete Joy of Home Brewing" by Papazian. I read both but I have found "How To Brew" the much better research, and study companion.