KPBrews' Inaugural Brew Day

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KPBrews

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Well, today was the day. This was certainly an interesting experience. Mistakes were made, lessons were learned. I guess I'll find out in a couple of weeks whether or not the mistakes will cause an issue.

Today, I brewed a Blonde Ale from More Beer, using their full complete ingredient kit.

Start time: 1:50pm End time: 6:45. 5 long hours! That was truly a start to finish thing, however (other than cleanup). For instance:

Lesson One: Water source. My RO water system works great for filling water bottles and pitchers. Less great for producing 6 gallons of filtered water. It took 55 minutes to fill my bucket! Lesson learned: Get the water prepared a day in advance, to save an hour of my life on brew day. Not difficult, and easily planned for in advance, but that was an unexpected hour out of my brew day, today. Live and learn!

Lesson two: Better instructions. I have a pretty darned decent course I found online with "how to brew" videos, but it turns out they were missing a few small things (not many, but they causes some issues and took time to resolve), and worse, there were inconsistencies that I had to resolve on the fly. For instance: The instructions were unclear about steeping the grain packet. All agreed that the grains should be steeped for 30 minutes. But one video said fill the kettle and start the boil, take it to about 150, but then the next video in the sequence said turn on your stove (like, from the start) and put in the grain bag immediately. The instructions for the beer kit said to put it in cold as well. My video course made a big deal about keeping the temp to around 160 and never letting it go above 170 or you could get off flavors. In the end, I put the grains in at around 115 and let things heat up to 165, then I lowered the heat to make sure I didn't overshoot 170. I finished the last two minutes having just hit 170, with the temp still climbing, but never went over. There was much relief. I think I worked this out in the end, but there was definitely confusion and uncertainty involved. Lesson learned: Well, hopefully now that I've been through this once I'll be able to spot issues in advance? With experience this will be less of an issue.

Lesson Three: Cooling sucks. The biggest issue, during the run, was the cooling stage. After boiling my hops for an hour, and adding the Whirlfloc tablet in the last 5 minutes, I was ready to cool the wort. My brewing kit came with a copper coil immersion chiller (25' coil), intended to connect to a kitchen faucet. The problem, it turns out, is SoCal is so darned hot that my tap water is 81 degrees. I was able to cool the wort from boiling to just under 100 in about 20 minutes (the hottest water ran down the drain, which was painful, but then it cooled enough to collect into buckets, instead, so at least the plants in my yard will be happy). But it quickly became clear that the temp wasn't going to drop much lower without some other technique. At that point, at least, it was cool enough that I was able to stack a bucket on the end of another, to get it up high, and fill the top bucket with about 5 lbs of ice and tap water, and running that COLD water through the chiller (and then dumping the bucket of ~65 degree water back up into the ice bucket, so reuse the same water over and over), then I was finally able to cool it down to 75. Lesson learned: Tap water this warm isn't going to cut it without extra gear. I'll spend some money on a better setup. I'm thinking of buying the Duda Diesel plate chiller. Then I can put my coil chiller into an ice water bucket to precool the water, and then run it through the plate chiller. That should finally adequately cool things at a nice brisk pace. Today's cooling session took an hour, and used ~30 gallons of water! (Yes, I watered plants with it, but still, there's is a drought!) People with similarly too-warm tap water, what's your method to work around this issue?

Lesson Four: Yeast. Again, I sort of blame this on my spotty brewing course instructions. Followed by a bonehead move on my part. The videos all demonstrated using liquid yeast, which they simply poured it in when pitching. No mention made of powdered yeast, which is what my kit came with, of course. (I later found a one-line mention buried in some text notes about the course) My beer kit's instructions, fortunately, had some instruction: To prep the powdered yeast, I was to stir it into in a 4oz cup of 86-92 degree water for 15 minutes. My mistake, and this is the one that may actually come back to haunt me in a couple of weeks, is I was rushed and not thinking, and I used 40 oz of RO water right from my tap (nuked to heat up, and then added more cool stuff to nail the temp zone). Did I just contaminate my entire batch? I guess only time will tell how effective my RO water filtration setup is, with regard to bacteria. It's a nice system, and only a couple of months old, so the filters are in great shape, so maybe there's a chance? Also, it's filtering municipal water that's heavily chlorinated so perhaps there's not as much living in there as there could be in other places? Lesson learned: Use liquid yeast, or prep boiled water in advance. Except now I'm seeing a thread that indicates I may not need to bother, and just sprinkle the dry yeast into the carboy, as long as it's above 68F? No, I think I'll rehydrate when using dry, and now I know to prep it in advance so no surprises on brew day.

Well, it's all over now, except for the cleaning. What's the prescribed cleaning methodology? I rinsed most things off with the tap, and then dipped them in StarSan again, and air dried. My transfer hose had some gunk caught in it, so I put it in the kettle with a few gallons of PBW water to soak for a while, then I'll air dry again, and put it away. Anything else that needs special treatment? I have no idea how I'm going to get the water out of my chiller coils, for instance... I don't have an air compressor.
 
Sounds like a success, overall! Few thoughts:
-You're on the right track for cooling. No Chill might be something to consider as well.
-I did the same thing for filtered water...once. Soooo loooong.
-I regularly use filtered tap water to rehydrate yeast (I take a bit off of my mash water as it is heating). Anecdotal, but I've never had an issue...don't fret until you need to.
-Cleaning: rinsing/flushing is key (I capture my cooling water for cleaning), PBW soak for stubborn stuff, I wouldn't worry about water inside your chiller (it's not going to contact your beer)

I have a duda plate chiller in my system, have never looked back. Slight concern about the risk of plugging it, but have stayed diligent about filtering on the hot side.
 
A couple more comments. There are many people on here that pitch dry yeast directly without rehydrating with no ill effects. I prefer to rehydrate but have occasionally pitched dry and noticed no difference. Also, don't sweat the steeping. It's pretty hard to screw it up short of boiling them.

For effective, conservation-minded cooling, I use a recirculating ice bath. Before brew day, I freeze a couple of water filled gallon milk jugs. I also save up some bags of ice cubes to help. I put my IC in near the end of the boil. Then I put the BK in my sink, cut the plastic from my frozen milk jugs and put them in as I fill the sink with water. I converted a 12V bilge pump to AC and submerge it in the sink to recirculate the water thru the IC and back into the sink. As the ice melts I supplement with the bagged ice. I siphon off excess water to an extra pot to save for watering. With frequent stirring, this system cools from boiling to mid-60s in 15-20 min. Altogether, it uses a total of about 5 gal of water, which can then be reused. Good luck.
 
Lesson Three: Cooling sucks. The biggest issue, during the run, was the cooling stage. After boiling my hops for an hour, and adding the Whirlfloc tablet in the last 5 minutes, I was ready to cool the wort. My brewing kit came with a copper coil immersion chiller (25' coil), intended to connect to a kitchen faucet. The problem, it turns out, is SoCal is so darned hot that my tap water is 81 degrees.

The tap water here in Texas is also tepid at best. During my first brew, guided by a friend with some experience, I was horrified to see how much water got used to run the immersion chiller setup. I decided to make something that would help conserve water, and also would also take less than the hour it took to cool my wort with tap water.

Got this mega-cheap pump from HFT: http://tinyurl.com/pvkgppr and a cheapo Igloo cooler that I already had to make an ice/water reservoir that I then connected up to the coil. Took a rat tail file and made round slots in the space at the lip/lid of the cooler for the cord and feed/return lines:

k33rxt.jpg


Nice thing about this setup is that the cooler mods are so minimal that it can still easily be used as a cooler. There's one of those automated bulk-ice dispensers down the road, so I can fill it with 40lbs of ice for $3.50 and also use it to chill my brew day beers! When it's time to do the wort chilling, I put a bit of tap water in to prime the pool of water at the bottom, and then fire it up. I go from boil to <70 in 12 minutes or less.
 
I'm so relieved! Thanks, guys. :)

Seems like I have the right idea to deal with chilling. Recirculating ice bath is key. And maybe that Duda Diesel plate chiller. And a pump. And perhaps some better logistical planning to avoid this:

GXJ4IQ.jpg


I'm very much relieved (mostly!) that my unpurified yeast water may not screw things up too bad. That was my absolute gut-churning worry. I'll still worry, but a lot less now!

And now begins the waiting...

V6CL2f.jpg
 
Oh, hey, one more question: Aerating the wort for the yeasties. Immediately after pitching the yeast, I plugged the top and shook the ever-loving heck out of the carboy for a minute or two.

I've read some books that seem to indicate I should to a lot more, though. Not referring to an aeration stone (maybe someday), but that perhaps I should shake it up again, perhaps a couple more times in the first 48 hours? Or should I just leave it alone?
 
Disclaimer: I'm a br00b and I still am making stupid mistakes, so any advice I give should probably be (advice+salt grain). I have, however, done a ton of reading!

With dry yeast, the wee yeasties are conditioned and packaged in such a way that they don't need as much available oxygen in the wort. Since you rehydrated them properly before pitching, they were (probably) in good shape when they went in the wort, so I'd just leave it be - no more shakin' required, as doing so might cause any dissolved CO2 in the carboy to foam up and blow out your airlock.

As is the case in most of these things: relax, don't worry, have a homebrew (or store-bought brew, since this was your first!)
 
Totally on it. ;)

In other (good) news, the Cool-Brewing fermentation bag seems to be working exactly as intended. I checked in today, and with the 3 ice bottles I put in yesterday (2 2l bottles plus 1 gal bottle), the temp strip on the bottle is reading a very nice 62F. :D

f1YcBd.jpg
 
In the future don't use RO water to hydrate dry yeast. Tap water run through a charcoal filter or store bought spring water that has been boiled (or brought up to 170-180F in the microwave) should be used. The reason for this is that RO water often doesn't have enough solutes and causes water to rush into yeast cells making them swell until they physically burst.

For my last brew I used a pack of dry yeast (Safale S04) in a wort that was 1.044 OG without rehydrating and saw activity start in about 12 hours. Personally, I am unconvinced that rehydrating dried yeast is always necessary for low gravity beers.

Also doesn't look like your beer has started active fermentation yet, keep an eye out for accelerated temperature increase when the yeast start going to work. You will see A LOT of physical movement in the carboy when things get going. It's pretty interesting to see little vortexes forming in your wort - I probably spent an hour watching my first couple of beers going nuts in the carboy :)
 
Correct, no active fermentation yet. As long as my yeast survived the RO water (RO isn't the same as distilled so I'd think it would be ok), I'm hoping things start to get active soon.

Based on the big sticky post at the top of this forum, though, I'm not going to worry just yet. :)
 
Shaking like crazy is a good compromise from going all in with an oxygenation setup. Give it a good 10 minutes or more. Once you pitch the yeast do not shake it anymore. You will oxidize the beer, which is not a good thing. That said, once you really decide you love this hobby/obsession, an aeration stone for oxygenation is a worthwhile investment. It greatly improved the attenuation and consistency of my brews.
 
It's looking more and more like things went fine. I still won't know about off flavors for sure... I have some suspicion on whether I went too close to 170, or even slightly over (due to a thermometer being slightly off), which may have released some extra esthers into the wort during the steeping stage. But otherwise, the carboy is starting to develop a lovely looking kraeusen on top. I was nervous at first, and frankly, even more so when, after 24 hours of nothing, I started getting some sickly looking islands all over the top that looked like a bad petri dish. But those islands grew, and at the 48 hour mark I had a dense, if thin, kraeusen, may 1/4" to 1/2" thick in places. My Cool Brewing fermenting bag is working TOO well, though, and temps spent much of the day in the mid-50s, so I pulled all the ice to get temps back into the 60s (for this Blonde Ale). Things are definitely accelerating now, and as of 1:00 am (54 hours in), I have a solid inch mat of lovely looking foam in there, and it's sitting steady at 62 degrees, where I'll try to keep it.

Isxvdc.jpg


At what point does an Blonde ale start to lighten up? I love me some dark beer so I don't really care if it stays dark, but technically this was an Amber, so I assume the color will lighten significantly at some point, perhaps late in the fermentation process? Cuz it's certainly quite dark at the moment, and has been nearly from the beginning.
 
A few things going on with the color.

#1) As the beer finishes the color will become lighter
#2) A lot of beers come out darker than online calculators predict
#3) The large diameter of your carboy makes the beer appear darker, when it's poured into a glass it will appear lighter

As far as steeping grains in water that is too hot or too alkaline you need to worry about tannin extraction, not esters. Esters are produced by the yeast and usually considered an off flavor (although in some beers esters are desirable, for instance mild esters in an English ale or noticeable esters in a Belgian ale). Ester production is often attributed to stressed yeast such as fermenting at temperatures that are too high or under pitching the yeast. US-05 is a pretty clean yeast, although is noted to throw peach-like esters at LOW temperatures strangely enough so you might get a slight fruitiness from the yeast. Some people like this flavor while others (like myself) try to avoid it. Personally I'd let the yeast rise to ~65F and hold it there.

Either way keeping things on the cool side is WAY better than keeping things on the warm side. Controlling fermentation temperatures is probably the biggest step to making good beer so props on figuring out a way to do that on your first brew :mug:
 
A few things going on with the color.

#1) As the beer finishes the color will become lighter
#2) A lot of beers come out darker than online calculators predict
#3) The large diameter of your carboy makes the beer appear darker, when it's poured into a glass it will appear lighter

As far as steeping grains in water that is too hot or too alkaline you need to worry about tannin extraction, not esters. Esters are produced by the yeast and usually considered an off flavor (although in some beers esters are desirable, for instance mild esters in an English ale or noticeable esters in a Belgian ale). Ester production is often attributed to stressed yeast such as fermenting at temperatures that are too high or under pitching the yeast. US-05 is a pretty clean yeast, although is noted to throw peach-like esters at LOW temperatures strangely enough so you might get a slight fruitiness from the yeast. Some people like this flavor while others (like myself) try to avoid it. Personally I'd let the yeast rise to ~65F and hold it there.

Either way keeping things on the cool side is WAY better than keeping things on the warm side. Controlling fermentation temperatures is probably the biggest step to making good beer so props on figuring out a way to do that on your first brew :mug:

Yeah, I thought I was off on that esters terminology, but I couldn't find where I read it right after I started questioning myself. ;) Thanks for the great info!

Currently the bag seems to be holding things at 62 (per the LCD temp gauge) and everything is looking good. I only have a single 2l ice bottle in there overnight, so I'm surprised the temp hasn't risen a little faster, but perhaps it will over the course of the warmer day. Given ambient temps around 75 inside, per the manuf that size ice bottle should only drop the temps to 70, so I'm a little surprised. I guess we'll see how it's doing when I get home from work, and I'll add more ice if needed, and if not, let it ride...
 
Yup, looks like beer. With extract brews you don't have to worry as much temp control for steeping grains. They comprise such a small amount of the total brew (unlike all-grain) that a small amount of tannins will get lost in all the extract. Sounds like you're on your way to a good brew. Enjoy it. It's already going to be better than 90% of the stuff you can buy at the store.
 
It sounds like you are WELL on your way to a successful brew. Your attention to detail about things like temperature will pay huge dividends on the back end. From what I've read so far you won't have to go through 10-15 gallons of "meh... it's homebrew" beers like I did when I started. I have only just recently gotten to the point where I think "I make some tasty tasty beer and I'm proud to share it" and most of that sentiment comes from doing the things you're doing right now.

Relax don't worry and have a homebrew (in a few weeks when yours is done fermenting and carbonating, of course).
 
We're getting close, I think. Saturday night will be right at the 2 week mark. The krausen has fallen to nearly nothing, and bubbling activity has stopped at the airlock. It's been like this for a couple of days, now. I have NOT opened it up to take a sample and test FG, should I, or are odds good that all is well, at this point?

i58fey.jpg


I was considering bottling and/or kegging this weekend. I also want my carboy to be freed up so I can run a new batch! Or should I really wait an extra week, just to be sure?

Option 2: I have this first batch in a 6.5 gal carboy, which seemed to work quite nicely. Clearly not an insanely active batch; it never came remotely near blowing off. I was considering racking into a old 5 gal carboy that was given to me, to let it sit another week. But if it's truly best to leave it alone, where it is, I also picked up a cheap 6 gal carboy which I could use for my next batch (a Belgian extract kit) instead. Is that likely to be a lot more active, though, making that extra 1/2 gal capacity important for blowout protection?

I could add a ton of ice bottles when I get home tonight to sort of cold crash the beer. Not sure how cold the bag can get things, but it's been cooler lately and the bag is known to be able to get cold enough for lagering easily, so perhaps it can cold crash it for a couple of days?
 
Well, just to wrap this batch up:

I used a racking cane to siphon the beer off today, directly into a keg. Dunno if it's entirely done, but I'm reasonably sure. Cranked the co2 up to 20 psi, shook it like a British nanny, and left it to it's own devices for a bit before putting it in the fridge.

According to the kit instructions, Estimate OG was 1.044-48, and I came right in the middle at 1.046. On the other hand, estimated ABV was 4.5%. My FG tested at 1.006, making actual ABV 5.24%. (OG-FG*131) I wonder why it was higher than expected?

I tasted the flat beer after measuring it. Tasted like beer! It'll be interesting to see how it finished out after a few days in the garage.

I was just barely able to get my carboy cleaned out in time to use it for my next batch... a Belgian Pale Ale kit from my LHBS. Onto the next brewing adventure!
 
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