Trenchant
Well-Known Member
I got one heck of a deal on a Kenmore minifridge the other week. I got it home, plugged it in and it worked great. This weekend I removed the inner door and the freezer accessories as well as I bent the coolant tray down.
Bending the coolant tray was my only concern. I didn't want to collapse the tubing and wreck the fridge. I went slow and it bent against the back of the fridge quite nicely. The tube ovalled a bit which is exactly what I wanted.
I stopped by The Home Depot to get something to cover the insulation on the door. I went searching everywhere but I couldn't find a simple piece of white plastic. I settled for using a piece of 1/8" hardboard which has a pressed finish on each side. A 4'x4' piece was only $7.00 canadian and they cut it to size for me(mind you they ended up cutting it over a 1/4" short on each side but it still works!)
The hardboard worked great so far. I drilled the old fridge door cover to the piece of hard board so the screw holes would line up. It worked great. I hit almost all of the old holes. My impact took care of making new holes for the ones I missed. If the hardboard ends up swelling in the next few months I will just replace it with some plastic. The other option was plexi at $45!
I have my 20# CO2 tank and a full keg in the fridge right now. To do is run a remote CO2 line outside of the fridge so I can have two kegs on tap. I have to order my beer tower yet. I found a distributor selling dual towers for less then $100 but they won't reply to my emails. I'm going to call them on monday.
I also plan to install a countersunk drip try. I want a drip tray for sure but I don't want it sticking above the top of the fridge by 1/2-1"
My biggest concern is the location of the coolant line on the top of the fridge. The fridge feels really warm in the front 2" of the fridge and cold all the way back. I haven't heard of the coolant line ever being at the very front of the fridge though? It would be awesome if the coolant line on mine was. I will be clear sailing to countersink the drip tray.
Pictures coming soon.
Bending the coolant tray was my only concern. I didn't want to collapse the tubing and wreck the fridge. I went slow and it bent against the back of the fridge quite nicely. The tube ovalled a bit which is exactly what I wanted.
I stopped by The Home Depot to get something to cover the insulation on the door. I went searching everywhere but I couldn't find a simple piece of white plastic. I settled for using a piece of 1/8" hardboard which has a pressed finish on each side. A 4'x4' piece was only $7.00 canadian and they cut it to size for me(mind you they ended up cutting it over a 1/4" short on each side but it still works!)
The hardboard worked great so far. I drilled the old fridge door cover to the piece of hard board so the screw holes would line up. It worked great. I hit almost all of the old holes. My impact took care of making new holes for the ones I missed. If the hardboard ends up swelling in the next few months I will just replace it with some plastic. The other option was plexi at $45!
I have my 20# CO2 tank and a full keg in the fridge right now. To do is run a remote CO2 line outside of the fridge so I can have two kegs on tap. I have to order my beer tower yet. I found a distributor selling dual towers for less then $100 but they won't reply to my emails. I'm going to call them on monday.
I also plan to install a countersunk drip try. I want a drip tray for sure but I don't want it sticking above the top of the fridge by 1/2-1"
My biggest concern is the location of the coolant line on the top of the fridge. The fridge feels really warm in the front 2" of the fridge and cold all the way back. I haven't heard of the coolant line ever being at the very front of the fridge though? It would be awesome if the coolant line on mine was. I will be clear sailing to countersink the drip tray.
Pictures coming soon.
