Kenmore Chest Freezer (12909) build with two towers

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ihuntbear

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The walls freeze up a little. When it reaches temp the ice melts and puddles at the bottom
 
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groundchuck

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The walls freeze up a little. When it reaches temp the ice melts and puddles at the bottom
Wow, that seems a bit odd. I have my Controller set at 38 so temp swing only goes from 35 to 41 so the walls never freeze. Also as noted above, I keep my temp probe in the air rather than in water. I imagine if the temp probe was in water the air temp could swing further South which could allow the walls to show frost/freeze then melt eventually (also assuming there was humidity getting in)?
 

Zygmont

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Might you be willing to share where you purchased your components?
 
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groundchuck

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Might you be willing to share where you purchased your components?

Here's what I recall for all the parts:

Freezer from Sears
10# CO2 tank from local place (Purity Gases)
95% of all the rest from Adventures in Homebrewing (all of the hardware in the first few pictures)
Remaining 5% of bits from (LHBS ... The used keg, air lines, air connections)
 

Reddwarf

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Thanks for the inspiration, pictures and ideas for this one. I've had a dual tap sanyo for many years but needed more choice on tap, so wanted 4 taps. I pretty much duplicated this setup and apart from some shipping delays everything is great. I've attached some pictures of mine too, they could be twins

I added a big computer fan and the rechargeable desiccant pack to avoid humidity issues. Looks fine to me

:mug::mug::mug::mug::mug::mug::rockin:



First off, thanks to HBT for all the awesome threads / resources on how to build a keezer!

I decided to start kegging recently because my bottler (wife) was in the local homebrew store with me and said "hey what are those shiny keg looking things?". Of course everyone within ear shot jumped into the discussion and convinced my wife that kegging is the way to go. She resigned as our official bottler on the ride home. :smack:

I guess it was only a matter of time before I was kegging so here we go.

I figured a good start would be 4 taps and I wanted to go the tower route rather than the collar route. I picked up the Freezer at Sears ($280ish) and then found a bunch of nice shiny bits to start the project.

Step one was temp control. I tried the Course Adjustment Screw method for about a week but I could not get the temp range that I wanted (it would swing from 34-50 in 24 hours). So I returned the screw to it's original position and then ordered the InkBird controller. I found a clean place to mount it in the side and wire it directly rather than have a box on the outside. Next I ordered some kegs (4 new + 1 used) and added some nifty labels. Next drill some scary holes in the lid of the freezer and mount the towers. Then, add a 10# tank and lines. And finally admire the work.

I just kegged my first 5 gallon batch of a dark scoth ale and I should be able to test it out soon (I am using the set and forget method while I am still learning how kegs work).

:mug:
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IMG_1272.jpg
 

MaryB

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One reason for the tower over a collar is less chance of walking into a tap(that is a huge priority with me! I have a vary bad back/leg nerve damage and have been known to go left instead of straight with no warning). Plus it takes less floor space...
 
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groundchuck

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.... I pretty much duplicated this setup and apart from some shipping delays everything is great.



:mug::mug::mug::mug::mug::mug::rockin:

Red,

Fantastic build. They indeed look like twins. Glad that I could offer some inspiration for the betterment of the HB community.

Good looking drip trays. I was curious what they would look like. Thanks for the pics.
 

JaimeTheLimey

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Sorry if this has been asked before, I'm lazy and didn't want to read through the whole thread. I like how you mounted the controller, how did you ultimately wind up routing the temp probe to the keezer?
 
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groundchuck

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Sorry if this has been asked before, I'm lazy and didn't want to read through the whole thread. I like how you mounted the controller, how did you ultimately wind up routing the temp probe to the keezer?

No worries. If you look in post 18 you will see the picture. I didn't want the wire to go under the seal so I drilled in the back of the lid and then dropped it in the freezer about 3 inches from the edge of the lid. It hangs from the lid and raises and lowers each time the lid is opened. It is hanging about 4" above the bottom with a few stainless washers helping to add weight and pull it down. It will try to take a few more pics later if it helps.
 

55x11

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One reason for the tower over a collar is less chance of walking into a tap(that is a huge priority with me! I have a vary bad back/leg nerve damage and have been known to go left instead of straight with no warning). Plus it takes less floor space...
I don't want to be "that guy" and it's a very impressive, very nice built and all, and I don't want to start a "collar" vs. "tower" thread - to each his own. But in case anyone reading this needs this information, yes, collar has a slightly higher footprint due to extending taps, but I have never personally noticed the difference, and I never bumped into my taps randomly, even when slightly drunk.

The advantage of collar, however is that your beer lines never get warm, since they are always inside the keggerator.

You never pay extra $ for the tower.

You can have as many taps as you want, at any location/configuration you want. Total freedom of configuration/design.

You have extra vertical space to put tall kegs or any extra bottles of beer, or jars of yeast etc. Most freezers are a bit too short to fit some of the kegs with lid closed.

You never have to worry about opening the keezer lid and what happens to those beer lines - in collar configuration they stay put under the lid.

You never have to drill through the lid or the side of the freezer - not just for taps, but for thermocouple, fan wires, or CO2 and N2 lines (my tanks sit outside of keggerator to save space for kegs) etc.

My freezer is about the same size as yours, maybe a tiny bit lager, but I have 8 taps (my freezer can fit 7 full 5G kegs and 2x 3G kegs, or replace one of the 5G kegs with 2x3G torpedo kegs ). I can see how tower can accommodate 2, 4, maybe 6 taps, but it's hard to see 8 tap tower in similar size footprint.
 
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groundchuck

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MaryB

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I am not talking a drunk stagger, I can literally go 90 degrees from where I am aiming without warning... the damage in my low back and left leg has been known to make docs panic looking at the CT scans... as in want me immediately in the hospital for surgery. I have been dealing with it for 10 years and have learned that I do not want anything sticking out I can snag with a hip/rib cage!


I don't want to be "that guy" and it's a very impressive, very nice built and all, and I don't want to start a "collar" vs. "tower" thread - to each his own. But in case anyone reading this needs this information, yes, collar has a slightly higher footprint due to extending taps, but I have never personally noticed the difference, and I never bumped into my taps randomly, even when slightly drunk.

The advantage of collar, however is that your beer lines never get warm, since they are always inside the keggerator.

You never pay extra $ for the tower.

You can have as many taps as you want, at any location/configuration you want. Total freedom of configuration/design.

You have extra vertical space to put tall kegs or any extra bottles of beer, or jars of yeast etc. Most freezers are a bit too short to fit some of the kegs with lid closed.

You never have to worry about opening the keezer lid and what happens to those beer lines - in collar configuration they stay put under the lid.

You never have to drill through the lid or the side of the freezer - not just for taps, but for thermocouple, fan wires, or CO2 and N2 lines (my tanks sit outside of keggerator to save space for kegs) etc.

My freezer is about the same size as yours, maybe a tiny bit lager, but I have 8 taps (my freezer can fit 7 full 5G kegs and 2x 3G kegs, or replace one of the 5G kegs with 2x3G torpedo kegs ). I can see how tower can accommodate 2, 4, maybe 6 taps, but it's hard to see 8 tap tower in similar size footprint.
 

JDL

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An old thread but hopefully the OP is still tracking. I have two towers already and am interested in doing this and have found the exact freezer on sale online.

Can you measure and tell me the actual height of the internal freezer? I am asking to ensure my kegs fit as I have noticed each brand can be up to an inch plus off depending..

Thanks,
Jeff
 

kev211

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JDL, thanks for the gravedig. I was starting to plan out my keezer and had completely forgotten about this thread. Now I know what Im gonna do!

To the OP, if you're still following... How did you drill the holes in the top for the tower? Hole saw? If so, what size? Thanks!!
 
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groundchuck

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Can you measure and tell me the actual height of the internal freezer? I am asking to ensure my kegs fit as I have noticed each brand can be up to an inch plus off depending..

Thanks,
Jeff

Jeff,

I measured the inside and you have just a touch under 26" of vertical height to put the kegs in. In my case that leaves an inch or so of space above the kegs to lay the lines. It's a bit tight but still works just fine.

Good luck on the build! You'll love it!

Shane
 
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groundchuck

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To the OP, if you're still following... How did you drill the holes in the top for the tower? Hole saw? If so, what size? Thanks!!

I have no idea why I still have the actual hole but here is a picture of the 2.5" hole saw I used. I started from the outside and then had to finish on the inside because the wall thickness is more than the depth of the hole saw.

Good luck!

Shane

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1487818488.335669.jpg
 

JDL

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Amazing you kept it, but maybe if you have to repurpose it as a freezer it will help you seal the holes back up.

Another question, how much line, width and type did you use to equalize pressure and get good pours?

Thanks,
Jeff
 
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groundchuck

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Another question, how much line, width and type did you use to equalize pressure and get good pours?

Thanks,
Jeff
I ordered the Taprite towers with all the goodies included right from AIH. Here is what came on the towers:
-Pre-fitted with 3/16" ID X 5' long NSF approved tubing with 1/4" MFL fittings
-The tower comes standard with 5' of beer line and 1/4" MFL fittings

So you can see there is 5' of beer line that came already hooked up from Taprite. I will say however that after a couple quick pours you start to get more foam in the latter pours. I haven't really spent much time messing with that to improve it though because I am typically the only person who pours a beer for myself so I have enough time in between pours for the foam to go down (in the lines). But if I pour 5 beers immediately for some friends, then it starts to get foamy. (I suppose I could try to fix that but I just haven't tried yet).
 

speedfoos

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Wow. FNG mistake replying to a question from 2016 on the first page of this thread. And it's my first post on this forum. Ugh. Lookin' real new here right now.... FML.

Uh... nice keezer man. Wish I hadn't fried my little Inkbird out of the box when I got it necessitating a run to the local HBS for an overpriced model.
 

JDL

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Finally found a good deal through sears on this model so ordered it and the STC-1000. Your picture of wiring it up confused me a little bit so I figured I would post the wiring diagram I am going to use and get your opinion or anyone else's on it. Obviously by being confused would represent my limited background in electricity.

I am just unsure of your jumper on what I am seeing on the neutral (maybe picture is deceiving for where the wire is actually coming from) and also the double wires that are put inside the STC power side. Figured it was safer to ask then be sorry and show a diagram I plan on using.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

wiring-diagram.jpg
 
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groundchuck

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Your picture of wiring it up confused me a little bit so I figured I would post the wiring diagram I am going to use and get your opinion or anyone else's on it.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff

To be honest I am not at all the right person to answer the electrical wiring questions. I tried to wire it up as I thought I saw on the forum. However someone commented earlier that I didn't wire it up incorrectly.

I attempted to put the controller in line with the factory power cord from the freezer. The freezer seems to work fine and the controller does its job properly so maybe I just got lucky?

I would definitely read the threads on how to wire it up and follow those methods rather than how I did it.

Shane
 

MaryB

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Good diagram, add a listing of terminals so people know which are power and which are relay to help the non-electronic people out.

1-2 Power
3-4 Temperature sensor
5-6 heat relay(if used)
7-8 cool relay

Finally found a good deal through sears on this model so ordered it and the STC-1000. Your picture of wiring it up confused me a little bit so I figured I would post the wiring diagram I am going to use and get your opinion or anyone else's on it. Obviously by being confused would represent my limited background in electricity.

I am just unsure of your jumper on what I am seeing on the neutral (maybe picture is deceiving for where the wire is actually coming from) and also the double wires that are put inside the STC power side. Figured it was safer to ask then be sorry and show a diagram I plan on using.

Thanks in advance,
Jeff
 

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