Kegland Oxebar corny kegs 20L/5.2gal

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Product of the year at that price. If they can hold the price down below a third of a new stainless corny, I predict they don't be able to keep up with demand.

As far as the krausen ring goes, I have never seen one that a 24or 36-hour soak with oxyclean free and a drop of dawn won't completely remove. I do back to back batches in my fermzilla without cleaning in-between and I still never scrub. Before that it was a modified vittles vault. Years ago it was better bottles. I have never scrubbed plastic. (too lazy anyway)
 
they already emptied there east coast pennsylvania warehouse last week now you have to wait for them to come from california if you live on the right side of the country (sorry couldnt resist) .

before the oxebar 4 liter was available in the states they sold out of them very quickly in australia. and there was a long wait on them for back order.

the 4 is better then the 8 and this is hands down a better quality product than the 8 . this will sell out fast.

see through , light weight , versatile, great value - game changing ultimate keg. IMO

version 2.0 needs to be a tiny bit squatter to fit in peoples already built kegerators and have a wider neck like a king keg chubby (are you listening kegland)
so you can get your hand in there (more for piece of mind than necessity prolly)


1717072015857.png


your hot oxy with dawn soak is very reassuring thanks.
 
they already emptied there east coast pennsylvania warehouse last week now you have to wait for them to come from california
And no longer on sale.
version 2.0 needs to be a tiny bit squatter to fit in peoples already built kegerators and have a wider neck like a king keg chubby
A widerr neck would be nice, but I'm not sure about making them squatter - it's already the same diameter as a sixtel; making them much wider could cause more problems than making them shorter would solve.
 
Looks like a v2.0 design would be useful after some feedback. I would say drop the stacking approach. Imho only breweries stack kegs. We are more concerned with size, shape, what they fit into and amount of clutter.
 
I like the trend! Can't argue with the Chubby Apollo. I did not see a hop bong style attachment for the Apollo. Maybe they have a separate lid. My want of a dedicated dry hop keg setup is open for all possibilities. The cost of a sixtel setup is looking like $30 for the used keg, $170 for the post attachment, hop bong, butterfly valve & ferule, and ~$200 for welding. So around $400+ which is plenty of room for an Apollo type product to swoop in and be just as good as the tank-build stainless.

It is getting kind of pricey just to dry hop with style!
 
I like the trend! Can't argue with the Chubby Apollo. I did not see a hop bong style attachment for the Apollo. Maybe they have a separate lid. My want of a dedicated dry hop keg setup is open for all possibilities. The cost of a sixtel setup is looking like $30 for the used keg, $170 for the post attachment, hop bong, butterfly valve & ferule, and ~$200 for welding. So around $400+ which is plenty of room for an Apollo type product to swoop in and be just as good as the tank-build stainless.

It is getting kind of pricey just to dry hop with style!
Would this be an option ? :
th-4116103070.jpg

+
stainless-steel-tc-tee-2f-ss-tc-tee-2f-tc-tee-fitting-500x500-278779070.jpg

+
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hopbongkit2.htm
+
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/sankeball.htm
:mug:
 
That is the main idea + a butterfly valve. I see where you are going to be able to avoid welding anything. But, this thing has to be able to fit in my wine fridge which has 27" vertical space. So a sixtel + butterfly valve & cap would allow me to put it in the fridge. When I wanted to add hops or yeast etc.... I could take it out, add the hop bong, use it and take it back off once the butterfly valve is closed again.
 
That is the main idea + a butterfly valve. I see where you are going to be able to avoid welding anything. But, this thing has to be able to fit in my wine fridge which has 27" vertical space. So a sixtel + butterfly valve & cap would allow me to put it in the fridge. When I wanted to add hops or yeast etc.... I could take it out, add the hop bong, use it and take it back off once the butterfly valve is closed again.
Every once in a while a post will stick in my brain and I'll start assembling things to see if they'd work...While it didn't quite work this time, maybe this'll be some fuel for thought or something onother reader might find useful;
My first thought was actually "This is a job for my Fermhead!" ( https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...-fit-it-to-fermonster-sankey-whatever.704064/ ) combined with a TC/NPT part I bought on ebay from a still dealer https://www.ebay.com/itm/2842377328...H0Jqrnq8B7lBEibcgyYn8oRy7lkQ|tkp:BFBM5oWKxvpj
Here's what I came up with:
img_1622-jpg.849861

IMG_1624.jpg

IMG_1623.jpg

Unfortunately it comes in at a bit under 6".....any way you can find another 3" in your fridge?
Sorry I couldn't solve this but maybe it'll be useful to someone.
Just also wondering though if anyone's tried fitting a Fermzilla lid in a Keg King unit?
 

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Pretty cool setup you came up with! Thanks for the input. My current thinking is to use a sixtel, mount the butterfly valve on the native 2" opening and have my welder guy weld some threaded keg posts on the open areas for the gas, liquid and a PRV. It is that or weld a 2" ferule on and buy a 3-way keg post adapter. While I would be open to a plastic keg like the Oxebar or Apollo, it does not seem like an option at this point.
 
Pretty cool setup you came up with! Thanks for the input. My current thinking is to use a sixtel, mount the butterfly valve on the native 2" opening and have my welder guy weld some threaded keg posts on the open areas for the gas, liquid and a PRV. It is that or weld a 2" ferule on and buy a 3-way keg post adapter. While I would be open to a plastic keg like the Oxebar or Apollo, it does not seem like an option at this point.
Is horizontal space an issue? ..There's always the squat 1/4 keg;
kegsizes2.jpg
 
I use a Kegmenter as my fermenter with the aid of a wooden shelf in the fridge. , so not much height difference in the end. They are kind of big and more expensive for this purpose as well. Still considering as it is enjoyable to have a project to think on.
 
they already emptied there east coast pennsylvania warehouse last week now you have to wait for them to come from california if you live on the right side of the country (sorry couldnt resist) .

before the oxebar 4 liter was available in the states they sold out of them very quickly in australia. and there was a long wait on them for back order.

the 4 is better then the 8 and this is hands down a better quality product than the 8 . this will sell out fast.

see through , light weight , versatile, great value - game changing ultimate keg. IMO

version 2.0 needs to be a tiny bit squatter to fit in peoples already built kegerators and have a wider neck like a king keg chubby (are you listening kegland)
so you can get your hand in there (more for piece of mind than necessity prolly)


View attachment 849698

your hot oxy with dawn soak is very reassuring thanks.

It's important to understand what you are asking for. Different vessels are designed for different applications. For all our fermenters we make wide neck as our company philosophy is that a fermenter is something you should be able to get into and clean. With kegs you generally do not get your hand inside and need to scrub the krausen so the opening can be smaller.

With respect to oxygen transmission rate the opening is the "weakest link" in the PET container and the closure is where most of the oxygen ingress will come in. Larger opening means less fresh beer and shorter shelf life. So for a keg we believe the smallest opening size is the best way to go. For a fermenter where you have active fermentation it's not an issue as the fermentation process soaks up the oxygen that ingresses in the container and we always have recommended our customers with the FermZilla to transfer the product out of the FermZilla in less than 3 months for this reason too.

For products like this below:

View attachment 849698
It's our belief that these kegs really do not tick either box very well. They have poor oxygen ingress as a long term storage vessel like a keg as the opening is large at the top (and they also use very poor silicone seals) but then the opening is not large enough to be used effectively as a fermenter. So it's like getting the worst of both worlds. For this reason we will never make this product above.

We can definitely make the Oxeybar kegs a bit more "squat" shape but when we first decided on this shape/size we consulted customers and the general consensus was that they wanted kegs that took up the smallest possible footprint in the kegerator so they could fit more into a small footprint. It would probably be good if we had a few different shapes/sizes though.
 
It's important to understand what you are asking for. Different vessels are designed for different applications. For all our fermenters we make wide neck as our company philosophy is that a fermenter is something you should be able to get into and clean. With kegs you generally do not get your hand inside and need to scrub the krausen so the opening can be smaller.

With respect to oxygen transmission rate the opening is the "weakest link" in the PET container and the closure is where most of the oxygen ingress will come in. Larger opening means less fresh beer and shorter shelf life. So for a keg we believe the smallest opening size is the best way to go. For a fermenter where you have active fermentation it's not an issue as the fermentation process soaks up the oxygen that ingresses in the container and we always have recommended our customers with the FermZilla to transfer the product out of the FermZilla in less than 3 months for this reason too.

For products like this below:

View attachment 849698
It's our belief that these kegs really do not tick either box very well. They have poor oxygen ingress as a long term storage vessel like a keg as the opening is large at the top (and they also use very poor silicone seals) but then the opening is not large enough to be used effectively as a fermenter. So it's like getting the worst of both worlds. For this reason we will never make this product above.

We can definitely make the Oxeybar kegs a bit more "squat" shape but when we first decided on this shape/size we consulted customers and the general consensus was that they wanted kegs that took up the smallest possible footprint in the kegerator so they could fit more into a small footprint. It would probably be good if we had a few different shapes/sizes though.
Personally, I would actually prefer them narrower and taller. Can't please everybody, I guess...

I'm really pleased with the 2 I have. It's an excellent product.
 
me too i love mine. happy i got two.
It's important to understand what you are asking for. Different vessels are designed for different applications. For all our fermenters we make wide neck as our company philosophy is that a fermenter is something you should be able to get into and clean. With kegs you generally do not get your hand inside and need to scrub the krausen so the opening can be smaller.

With respect to oxygen transmission rate the opening is the "weakest link" in the PET container and the closure is where most of the oxygen ingress will come in. Larger opening means less fresh beer and shorter shelf life. So for a keg we believe the smallest opening size is the best way to go. For a fermenter where you have active fermentation it's not an issue as the fermentation process soaks up the oxygen that ingresses in the container and we always have recommended our customers with the FermZilla to transfer the product out of the FermZilla in less than 3 months for this reason too.

For products like this below:

View attachment 849698
It's our belief that these kegs really do not tick either box very well. They have poor oxygen ingress as a long term storage vessel like a keg as the opening is large at the top (and they also use very poor silicone seals) but then the opening is not large enough to be used effectively as a fermenter. So it's like getting the worst of both worlds. For this reason we will never make this product above.

We can definitely make the Oxeybar kegs a bit more "squat" shape but when we first decided on this shape/size we consulted customers and the general consensus was that they wanted kegs that took up the smallest possible footprint in the kegerator so they could fit more into a small footprint. It would probably be good if we had a few different shapes/sizes though.
thanks for the response. i have been mulling over cleaning things we cant see or get to (pumps, valves, growlers, etc.) for a while. so i am ok with the narrow neck. and not getting in there

i just assumed if other companies could make such a product i was hoping you would in order to get it to the states as no other PET keg retailers seem to get there products here.

just wishful thinking. i dont really need any more toys anyway lol.

anyway thanks for making and distributing this. and btw the 4 liters oxebars are the cats meow also. IMO

i love PET. light weight see through. versatility. value.

keep the PET products coming!


.
 
me too i love mine. happy i got two.

thanks for the response. i have been mulling over cleaning things we cant see or get to (pumps, valves, growlers, etc.) for a while. so i am ok with the narrow neck. and not getting in there

i just assumed if other companies could make such a product i was hoping you would in order to get it to the states as no other PET keg retailers seem to get there products here.

just wishful thinking. i dont really need any more toys anyway lol.

anyway thanks for making and distributing this. and btw the 4 liters oxebars are the cats meow also. IMO

i love PET. light weight see through. versatility. value.

keep the PET products coming!


.
Thanks for that. We really appreciate the support. We are always looking for ways we can improve the product so we appreciate all feedback we can get from you guys.
 
just kegged a munich helles after 5 days pressure fermenting in this keg. it worked perfectly.

my concern of kreusen cleaning was baseless as a 3 hour oxyclean soak cleaned this thing spotless.

i have seen a few websites i think williams for one, advertise this as a pressure fermenter and rightly so.

i know kelgand doesn't recommend it but this thing was flawless as a fermenter. I am a little sad that the fermzilla staring at me lonely and neglected in the corner for the past few weeks will not be put to use again for a long time if ever.

i got two of these as i said before. omg , i could make 9 gallons of beer! - 😲
 
I like my allrounder as a presure fermenter
i got two of these as i said before. omg , i could make 9 gallons of beer! - 😲
I have been able to pressure ferment 15 gallons of lagers in my Allrounder.

These new keg/plastic bottle things are great. I'm fortunate to have plenty of used cornies. Some cost less than these.
 
Does Kegland recommend prolonged contact with sodium percarbonate/sodium carbonate cleaners like Oxiclean for their PET vessels?
I recall there were issues with Better Bottles (also PET) where that caused crazing and eventually cracking.
If that is the case, PBW might be the better option...

Cheers!
 
Does Kegland recommend prolonged contact with sodium percarbonate/sodium carbonate cleaners like Oxiclean for their PET vessels?
I recall there were issues with Better Bottles (also PET) where that caused crazing and eventually cracking.
If that is the case, PBW might be the better option...

Cheers!

Just to be specific it's not so much the "sodium percarbonate" itself as this particular chemical is fine. The issues is that many of the formulations that use Sodium Percarbonate also use an additional agent called "sodium metasilicate". Sodium Metasilicate is the specific ingredient that is the issue.

If you use just sodium percarbonate then you can leave that in the tank indefinitely but sodium metasilicate degrade PET and also many other plastics too especially when in contact for extended periods. So any product that contains sodium metasilicate we would recommend contact time of 15min or less.

To be honest after more than 15min there is really no point to use these types of oxidizing cleaners as they they are mostly decomposed already after 15 min so you are not really getting any benefit from a cleaning point of view to leave the cleaner in for longer than this anyway.
 
I got one of these as a fermenter too. I have an IPA fermenting in mine right now

The last few batches I was using corny kegs as pressure ferment, which works fine. I like these since can see inside to watch fermentation (not necessary but sometimes I like to), and will make it easier to know when to stop transferring to serving keg. Also my Tilt hydrometer gets better range than it does with a metal keg.
 
Just to be specific it's not so much the "sodium percarbonate" itself as this particular chemical is fine. The issues is that many of the formulations that use Sodium Percarbonate also use an additional agent called "sodium metasilicate". Sodium Metasilicate is the specific ingredient that is the issue.

If you use just sodium percarbonate then you can leave that in the tank indefinitely but sodium metasilicate degrade PET and also many other plastics too especially when in contact for extended periods. So any product that contains sodium metasilicate we would recommend contact time of 15min or less.

To be honest after more than 15min there is really no point to use these types of oxidizing cleaners as they they are mostly decomposed already after 15 min so you are not really getting any benefit from a cleaning point of view to leave the cleaner in for longer than this anyway.
Thanks for the clarification. I see these cleaners along with PBW in the same way. Most of the hard work is done in 15 minutes unless you have really dried, old caked on stuff which benefits from long soak exposure. One way to improve the short term cleaning power is to raise the temperature of your water above the 160F recommendation. Higher temps favor the ingredients that fall off quickly anyway.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I see these cleaners along with PBW in the same way. Most of the hard work is done in 15 minutes unless you have really dried, old caked on stuff which benefits from long soak exposure. One way to improve the short term cleaning power is to raise the temperature of your water above the 160F recommendation. Higher temps favor the ingredients that fall off quickly anyway.
That won’t work on the oxebar keg, they are only rated to 113f (45c)
 
The internet believes that oxyclean free doesn't have sodium metasilicate, and that's why it doesn't work as well as pbw.

I've never used anything but oxyclean free with a drop of dish detergent, so I don't know what I'm missing I guess. Heck, probably a 24 hour soak in plain water would work just as well. Either way, I have never had to scrub.
 
Since it's moved on to chemical reactions and @KegLand is weighing in; Do you suppose this keg would be suitable for long-term storage of Star San? I have a Series-X kegerator so these won't fit, but as far as Star San use goes, I'm in the 'keep it for about a month or so before discarding' camp. I used to use a 7G Fermonster to store my Star San, but as I'm disabled I just can't move the thing about so I went to saving only 5G of the 7 1/2G I need for my clean/sanitize/purge routine (I overfill my kegs, letting Star San run out the open lid and a disconnect on the gas post and then through the PRV, so I need more than 5G).
I keep a 5G bucket of my last batch of Star San on top of an upturned milk crate in the area I do my cleaning until next time, and use it for topping up what I mix in the current keg. I'm thinking I could buy a pair of these kegs, lashing them to a simple cart to store my Star San in. Is this possible, or will the fittings break down from long term Star San exposure?
(PS: Apologies for derailing the thread above)
:mug:
 
i am almost positive i saw long term stoarge of starsan in oxebar kegs is fine but i cant find it.

heres a discussion of long term PET starsan contact :


https://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=80398

"A weak solution of Starsan will be fine in many plastics. Look on the bottom of the bottle/ drum and you should see a triangle. If it says 2 it will be HDPE which will be fine, and is the polymer used to make the Starsan container. PET (soft drinks bottles) will also be fine for a solution"

the fermzilla instructions say prolonged starsan isnt an issue. but i am just realizing these are much different than fermzilla PET .

ie . temperature tolerances

i have had starsan in PET growlers. without a problem for months.

in UK sister sight a lot fo users store their PET bottles (usually coopers) with starsan.
 
Since it's moved on to chemical reactions and @KegLand is weighing in; Do you suppose this keg would be suitable for long-term storage of Star San? I have a Series-X kegerator so these won't fit, but as far as Star San use goes, I'm in the 'keep it for about a month or so before discarding' camp. I used to use a 7G Fermonster to store my Star San, but as I'm disabled I just can't move the thing about so I went to saving only 5G of the 7 1/2G I need for my clean/sanitize/purge routine (I overfill my kegs, letting Star San run out the open lid and a disconnect on the gas post and then through the PRV, so I need more than 5G).
I keep a 5G bucket of my last batch of Star San on top of an upturned milk crate in the area I do my cleaning until next time, and use it for topping up what I mix in the current keg. I'm thinking I could buy a pair of these kegs, lashing them to a simple cart to store my Star San in. Is this possible, or will the fittings break down from long term Star San exposure?
(PS: Apologies for derailing the thread above)
:mug:

Yes long term storage of Star San is no problem at all. The PET and POK and also all the rubbers we use have a high resistance to acid including lactic, acetic, LABS acid and phosphoric acid as well as many other acids.

So you can keep these acids even in high concentration in the Oxebar kegs indefinitely. It's really just the PBW (sodium metasilicate) that is an issue and also the high temperatures that were mentioned in the previous post.
 
The internet believes that oxyclean free doesn't have sodium metasilicate, and that's why it doesn't work as well as pbw.

I've never used anything but oxyclean free with a drop of dish detergent, so I don't know what I'm missing I guess. Heck, probably a 24 hour soak in plain water would work just as well. Either way, I have never had to scrub.

Yes that is the issue. Many customers use products like Oxyclean and some formulations of sodium percarbonate based cleaners but if this is the only ingredient they generally dont act on a wide range of soiling. If you use 100% sodium percarbonate for instance you end up with residue building up on the container wall. For instance sodium percarbonate is completely ineffective at removing oils. Also if you live in area with hard water this also is an issue too. In my opinion you are still better off going for more complex formulations that have a number of active ingredients so you get a broader acting cleaner. Sodium metasilicate is fantastic stuff but you just have to use it carefully and limit the contact time.
 
I have a question about these kegs…I was thinking of buying a stainless growler to share my next batch with some on a trip with some friends but I know growlers aren’t perfect. Would it be possible to pressure transfer from a keg into say a 1 gallon oxebar, then swap the tap head for the regular cap and use as a growler?
 
I have a question about these kegs…I was thinking of buying a stainless growler to share my next batch with some on a trip with some friends but I know growlers aren’t perfect. Would it be possible to pressure transfer from a keg into say a 1 gallon oxebar, then swap the tap head for the regular cap and use as a growler?
Yes. It's just a bottle once you put the cap on it.
 
I have a question about these kegs…I was thinking of buying a stainless growler to share my next batch with some on a trip with some friends but I know growlers aren’t perfect. Would it be possible to pressure transfer from a keg into say a 1 gallon oxebar, then swap the tap head for the regular cap and use as a growler?

Yes you can easily just switch from the tapping head to the cap that comes included with the oxebar keg. That is no problem at all.
 
just kegged a munich helles after 5 days pressure fermenting in this keg. it worked perfectly.

my concern of kreusen cleaning was baseless as a 3 hour oxyclean soak cleaned this thing spotless.

i have seen a few websites i think williams for one, advertise this as a pressure fermenter and rightly so.

i know kelgand doesn't recommend it but this thing was flawless as a fermenter. I am a little sad that the fermzilla staring at me lonely and neglected in the corner for the past few weeks will not be put to use again for a long time if ever.

i got two of these as i said before. omg , i could make 9 gallons of beer! - 😲
Question for you guys that are fermenting in these. How much do you reckon I can cram in there while spunding before the krausen height becomes an issue? I'm going to try a ferment-and-serve with 34/70 this weekend. Will chill to 50 and then pull it out to RT and let her rip, see if I can get a fast lager done.
 
i brewed to 4.5 gallons cause i was worried that the width compared to my fermzilla was so narrow that the kreusen would be much higher.

i left the spundy off for the first 24 hours because of that. the kreusen only was about an inch or so. then i put spundy on and set it to 12.


i could have easily got 5 gallons in there without issue and will brew to 5 next time.

it was a helles with 1 pack of 34/70 at 70 degrees and it was done in 5 days but the last 3 days didnt move at all so it actually finished in like 48 hours!!!

with NO OFF FLAVORS.

i would say 5 gallons is no problem . granted different worts im sure will have an affect on the height of the kreusen. i have heard ferm cap will help but i dont like the idea of adding anything else to my beers so i would rather just make a slightly smaller batch.
 
i brewed to 4.5 gallons cause i was worried that the width compared to my fermzilla was so narrow that the kreusen would be much higher.

i left the spundy off for the first 24 hours because of that. the kreusen only was about an inch or so. then i put spundy on and set it to 12.


i could have easily got 5 gallons in there without issue and will brew to 5 next time.

it was a helles with 1 pack of 34/70 at 70 degrees and it was done in 5 days but the last 3 days didnt move at all so it actually finished in like 48 hours!!!

with NO OFF FLAVORS.

i would say 5 gallons is no problem . granted different worts im sure will have an affect on the height of the kreusen. i have heard ferm cap will help but i dont like the idea of adding anything else to my beers so i would rather just make a slightly smaller batch.

I can tell you fermcap definitely makes a huge difference. The Weihenstephan W68 strain which is the workhorse for brewing Hefeweizens is known to create a huge Krausen like Westmalle and Hoegaarden and other expressive yeast strains. I would say my krausen is only half of the height with 1-2 drops per gallon. Zero effect on head retention - my hefeweizens always have epic head retention because of my step mash regimen.

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two of these fit inside my vevor kegerator with room to spare. i threw on an inkbird and i have a kolsch fermenting in there right now. its hard not to just serve out of there since it has the floating diptube already. i can just spund it to carb it up then cold crash it then serve. i dont really see a reason to move it to a keg except that it will take up valuable chilling space.

its a good problem to have.


1719256132939.png
 
After draining a few of these, I have realized that I cut my dip tubes too short and tend to lose a pint or two at the end. I have ordered new silicone tubing and will re-do them. It seems like the line should be long enough for the filter to lie flat on the bottom of the keg with zero tension in the line. Otherwise the filter will stand up straight and draw in CO2 along with the last of the beer, which is no good.
 
i have either read or saw on a video somewhere that the dip tube shoudl be cut so that the floating ball is dangling just at the bottom of the keg but not touching it. i have noticed that with my two it is very difficult to achieve this perfectly. but i have got mine nice and close and leave behind ony about a cup of beer which works nice to swirl up the cake for transfer to mason jar for reuse.

i dont liek the fact that i can only get my ispindel out of there by filling the oxebar all the way to the top with water. i hate wasting that 5 gallons of water just to get out my ispindel.

these are really great, fun, fermenter/kegs
 

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