Kegerator thermostat bypass

[fnffishcore]

I know this has been asked and answered a million times but I can't find anything that pertains to my specific kegerator. I have an EdgeStar BR2001 that I'm using for a ferm chamber and I want to bypass the internal thermostat so I can use my Inkbird controller. I know the white wire is the thermostat sensor, the green is a ground wire. Is it just a simple matter of connecting the black and red wire?


Thanks in advance!

 

[day_trippr]

Yup, literally that simple. Leave the green safety wire where it is, jump the red to black, plug the line cord into an add-on controller (with the probe inside the fridge!) and you're good to go.
You're fortunate not to be burdened with the typical digital baggage seen all too often on these minifridges..,

Cheers!

 

[fnffishcore]

Yup, literally that simple. Leave the green safety wire where it is, jump the red to black, plug the line cord into an add-on controller (with the probe inside the fridge!) and you're good to go.
You're fortunate not to be burdened with the typical digital baggage seen all too often on these minifridges..,

Cheers!

That's the assurance I need, thank you sir!

 

[makisupapolice14]

Yup, literally that simple. Leave the green safety wire where it is, jump the red to black, plug the line cord into an add-on controller (with the probe inside the fridge!) and you're good to go.
You're fortunate not to be burdened with the typical digital baggage seen all too often on these minifridges..,

Cheers!

I have an edgestar br3001 with a digital thermostat (ugh) and I’m hoping to bypass the thermostat and use an inkbird. Any idea how I could go about doing this successfully?

 

[bkboiler]

I'm confused....in the past when I would use a fridge, I'd just set the internal analog potentiometer to the coldest setting and then whenever my johnson or inkbird called for cold it would give power to the fridge which would always turn on.
I just got a 7.0 vissani and magic chef. I want one to be at 65ish and other at 40ish.
Shouldn't I just set the fridge thermostat on the coldest setting and let the controllers do their thing??
Thanks! I've been wondering if this was necessary for chest freezers for a while.

 

[codysorgenfrey]

I have an edgestar br3001 with a digital thermostat (ugh) and I’m hoping to bypass the thermostat and use an inkbird. Any idea how I could go about doing this successfully? View attachment 732863

I just did this with mine! I ended up bypassing everything in the fridge by jumping the positive and negative input to the main power board with the positive and negative output.

So instead of going
wall->main power board->compressor/relay/fan

it now goes
wall->compressor/relay/fan.

Couple of notes.
1.) you need to use a multimeter and check that the input to the main power board and the output and the same voltage. They usually are since the compressor needs all the power.
2.) the result is that the fridge door light and thermostat screen don’t turn on anymore.

Cheers!

 

[fnffishcore]

I'm confused....in the past when I would use a fridge, I'd just set the internal analog potentiometer to the coldest setting and then whenever my johnson or inkbird called for cold it would give power to the fridge which would always turn on.
I just got a 7.0 vissani and magic chef. I want one to be at 65ish and other at 40ish.
Shouldn't I just set the fridge thermostat on the coldest setting and let the controllers do their thing??
Thanks! I've been wondering if this was necessary for chest freezers for a while.

There’s no problem doing that, it just takes longer. By bypassing the thermostat on your fridge/freezer and instead using the probe on your Inkbird, typically with a thermowell, your fridge/freezer will continue to cool until the proper temperature of your beer is met. Using the built-in thermostat just measures ambient temperature, so it takes longer for your beer to acclimate.

 

[fnffishcore]

There’s no problem doing that, it just takes longer. By bypassing the thermostat on your fridge/freezer and instead using the probe on your Inkbird, typically with a thermowell, your fridge/freezer will continue to cool until the proper temperature of your beer is met. Using the built-in thermostat just measures ambient temperature, so it takes longer for your beer to acclimate.

In other words, even if your Inkbird stays on and gives power to your cooling device, your device may still turn off if the built-in thermostat determines the ambient temperature is met.

 

[makisupapolice14]

I just did this with mine! I ended up bypassing everything in the fridge by jumping the positive and negative input to the main power board with the positive and negative output.

So instead of going
wall->main power board->compressor/relay/fan

it now goes
wall->compressor/relay/fan.

Couple of notes.
1.) you need to use a multimeter and check that the input to the main power board and the output and the same voltage. They usually are since the compressor needs all the power.
2.) the result is that the fridge door light and thermostat screen don’t turn on anymore.

Cheers!

That sounds promising. Do you have the same edgestar model? I’m a total dummy when it comes to this stuff so any help/pics you might have would be a huge help!

 

[codysorgenfrey]

That sounds promising. Do you have the same edgestar model? I’m a total dummy when it comes to this stuff so any help/pics you might have would be a huge help!

I’ll check and get back to you tomorrow.

 

[makisupapolice14]

I’ll check and get back to you tomorrow.

Sounds great! My internal thermostat goes haywire when there are drastic changes in ambient temps so it would be nice to eliminate it from the equation.

 

[codysorgenfrey]

That sounds promising. Do you have the same edgestar model? I’m a total dummy when it comes to this stuff so any help/pics you might have would be a huge help!

Mine is actually the Edgestar BR1000SS. Here’s the manual I used to figure out the circuits.

https://support.edgestar.com/hc/art...nd BWC120SLD Service Manual V1.0 04132018.pdf

It was as simple as connecting the red to black and white to white in the above picture (circled in the red rectangle).

this is the main power board BTW.

 

[makisupapolice14]

Mine is actually the Edgestar BR1000SS. Here’s the manual I used to figure out the circuits.

https://support.edgestar.com/hc/art...nd BWC120SLD Service Manual V1.0 04132018.pdf
View attachment 732895
It was as simple as connecting the red to black and white to white in the above picture (circled in the red rectangle).

this is the main power board BTW.

Thank you! My manual has none of those details for my model. I’ll have to touch base with a friend who is well versed in electric and see if he can help me out.
I don’t trust myself.

 

[day_trippr]

Wrt the BR3001, does the digital controller maintain your temperature setting through an AC power outage? If it reverts to some default setting you're going to need to take control away from it via a bypass of some type.

You could disconnect the compressor circuit and any evap and/or condenser fan(s) from the controller and wire them to an Inkbird output. You'd lose any fancy features in the offing but most folks don't care...

Cheers!

 

[Deadalus]

Wrt the BR3001, does the digital controller maintain your temperature setting through an AC power outage? If it reverts to some default setting you're going to need to take control away from it via a bypass of some type.

You could disconnect the compressor circuit and any evap and/or condenser fan(s) from the controller and wire them to an Inkbird output. You'd lose any fancy features in the offing but most folks don't care...

Cheers!

One of my fridges is like this and it is a royal PITA! Goes to red wine or something like that when the Inkbird turns it off. Somewhat manageable but reading along...

 

[codysorgenfrey]

Yeah my BR1000SS does this which is why I had to bypass the digital thermostat and light. Everything else works fine with the inkbird now.

 

[day_trippr]

This is purportedly the main PCB for the Edgestar 3001 (BL/WH/SS).
If there is neither an evaporator fan nor condenser fan, one could literally pull the two connectors from the bottom pair of receptacles, and similarly to the mod shown above, connect the white (neutral) wires together and the black (AC line/hot) wire to the red (switched AC/hot) then plug the fridge into an Inkbird...

Cheers!

 

[wsmith1625]

I just want to add that most internal thermostats have a low temperature setting and won't go any lower than that. Bypassing it allows to get below the manufacturer settings.

 

[DuncB]

Lucky my ferment fridge freezer was broken and would only chill and chill and chill so I just put the thermowell in the fridge and the controller before the heating and fridge power supply.
Hacked a hole in the floor of the freezer compartment ( which was above the fridge ) after @daytrippr encouragement and it really crashes even faster now.

 

[day_trippr]

"Whatever it takes"

 

[makisupapolice14]

This is purportedly the main PCB for the Edgestar 3001 (BL/WH/SS).
If there is neither an evaporator fan nor condenser fan, one could literally pull the two connectors from the bottom pair of receptacles, and similarly to the mod shown above, connect the white (neutral) wires together and the black (AC line/hot) wire to the red (switched AC/hot) then plug the fridge into an Inkbird...

View attachment 733259

Cheers!

Great info. Thanks!

 

[makisupapolice14]

This is purportedly the main PCB for the Edgestar 3001 (BL/WH/SS).
If there is neither an evaporator fan nor condenser fan, one could literally pull the two connectors from the bottom pair of receptacles, and similarly to the mod shown above, connect the white (neutral) wires together and the black (AC line/hot) wire to the red (switched AC/hot) then plug the fridge into an Inkbird...

View attachment 733259

Cheers!

My friend came over and we re-wired just as advised for my edgestar br3001 and it worked just as you said! The main pcb looks exactly as you have pictured. Can’t believe it was that simple. I couldn’t get any appliance repair person to even take a look at it for over a year! This thing is on borrowed time but thanks to everyone for saving me about $500 or so for a replacement box, at least for now!

 

[day_trippr]

 

[Deric]

If you wanted to keep the interior light and any digital display (if equipped) - is there any reason NOT to splice the compressor to the main power AND keep the main power connected to the circuit board?

 

[day_trippr]

As long as what used to be the switched hot wire to the compressor is married to the line hot - leaving the relay unused - I can't think of any functional issue...

Cheers!

 

[mjb8706]

Mine is actually the Edgestar BR1000SS. Here’s the manual I used to figure out the circuits.

https://support.edgestar.com/hc/art...nd BWC120SLD Service Manual V1.0 04132018.pdf
View attachment 732895
It was as simple as connecting the red to black and white to white in the above picture (circled in the red rectangle).

this is the main power board BTW.

hi. can you tell me how you jumped the white to white and red to black? did you use a paper clip or something? or do you just pull the wires out of the red harnesses and them together? red to black and white to white

 

[codysorgenfrey]

hi. can you tell me how you jumped the white to white and red to black? did you use a paper clip or something? or do you just pull the wires out of the red harnesses and them together? red to black and white to white

Yeah I used twist on wire connectors. Pulled them out then connected them to each other.

 

[harrisr4]

I'm going to try and piggy back off this thread. I am looking to do they same thing and bypass the thermostat sensor in my beer mister. Here is the a photo of the circuit diagram. I dont mind bypassing the defrost sensor, LED light and the Fan as well. Whatever is easiest in terms are jumping wires! Any idea how i can do this?

 

[codysorgenfrey]

I'm going to try and piggy back off this thread. I am looking to do they same thing and bypass the thermostat sensor in my beer mister. Here is the a photo of the circuit diagram. I dont mind bypassing the defrost sensor, LED light and the Fan as well. Whatever is easiest in terms are jumping wires! Any idea how i can do this?
View attachment 767900

Please take my advice with caution, I'm just a hobbyist electrician, not a professional by any means! This looks like the same solution will work for you, as long as the compressor is rated for 115v/60Hz. Just connect the hot (black) and neutral (white) wire from the power supply to the compressor/fan, bypassing the power PCB and control PCB (with sensors/light/fan) all together. This should make it so that the compressor runs whenever the fridge has power. Then run the fridge off a temp controller like the InkBird ITC-308.

 

[sasquatch93]

My friend came over and we re-wired just as advised for my edgestar br3001 and it worked just as you said! The main pcb looks exactly as you have pictured. Can’t believe it was that simple. I couldn’t get any appliance repair person to even take a look at it for over a year! This thing is on borrowed time but thanks to everyone for saving me about $500 or so for a replacement box, at least for now!

Hey I understand I am late to the game, but do you by chance have a picture of what your friend did? I can't picture it in my head..

 

[day_trippr]

Take a look at this specific post in this thread...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/kegerator-thermostat-bypass.680600/#post-9123129
and then this one...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/kegerator-thermostat-bypass.680600/#post-9124368
Cheers!

 

[sasquatch93]

Take a look at this specific post in this thread...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/kegerator-thermostat-bypass.680600/#post-9123129
and then this one...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/kegerator-thermostat-bypass.680600/#post-9124368
Cheers!

Alright, I'm a little slow so please be patient...

Are we running a jumper wire between them and plugging them back into the board, or are we just snipping the wires tying them together and then plugging it in? Thanks!

 

[day_trippr]

Ah, right, that part admittedly was never specified.

You pretty much have to remove the plugs, cut the wires (because it's the easiest way), and join the wires as prescribed using either barrel crimps or
strip-twist-and-wire-nut them together. Red to Black, White to White. There are no connections back to the board...

Cheers!

 

[sasquatch93]

Ah, right, that part admittedly was never specified.

You pretty much have to remove the plugs, cut the wires (because it's the easiest way), and join the wires as prescribed using either barrel crimps or
strip-twist-and-wire-nut them together. Red to Black, White to White. There are no connections back to the board...

Cheers!

This worked out perfect for me! Thank you for your help!

 

[day_trippr]

Cheers!