Kegerator Help - danby dar044a4bslddu

[automaton]

Hello,

I just purchased the danby dar044a4bslddu mini fridge at costco to convert to a kegerator. I've seen a lot of posts and tutorials online for other danby models that are very similar to this one but not for this exact one. I was just wondering if anyone has built a kegerator from this model? I can squeeze two ball lock kegs in there barely with the co2 tank so I think once I take all the plastic off the door it should be fine. My main concern is if there are any coolant lines in the top that I need to be aware of.

Thanks in advance for any help on this!!

 

[rice13]

While I haven't built my kegerator yet, I plan to do so with this same fridge and have been gathering all the materials for the past week. I did email customer service at Danby and received this response:

"It is correct that by drillin on the unit the warranty will be void. However, the cooling coils are on the back and side walls. (not on the top)"

So, while I will still proceed with caution, it looks like coolant lines on the top shouldn't be an issue. I'll let you know if I run into any trouble.

 

[YeastMode]

I built mine from a similar (but not the same) model. IIRC, the only difference between yours and mine (the DAR125SLDD) is that the shelve supports in your model are molded into the sides of the interior of the fridge, while the shelves on the DAR125SLDD attach to a metal support in the back. Thus, to fit the two kegs and the CO2 tank inside, you need to remove the molded shelf supports.

As for the drilling, you should be OK with respect to cooling lines, but there is some electrical components you need to avoid. You should be able to use the measurements/template found in the following thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f252/danby-dar125sldd-kegerator-build-269314/

The above thread should answer most of your questions.

 

[automaton]

I built mine from a similar (but not the same) model. IIRC, the only difference between yours and mine (the DAR125SLDD) is that the shelve supports in your model are molded into the sides of the interior of the fridge, while the shelves on the DAR125SLDD attach to a metal support in the back. Thus, to fit the two kegs and the CO2 tank inside, you need to remove the molded shelf supports.

As for the drilling, you should be OK with respect to cooling lines, but there is some electrical components you need to avoid. You should be able to use the measurements/template found in the following thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f252/danby-dar125sldd-kegerator-build-269314/

The above thread should answer most of your questions.

Thanks!! I'll check out that thread now. The molded shelf supports on the side do make a difference. I can still get the two kegs in with the supports there but man is it a tight squeeze.

 

[automaton]

I built mine from a similar (but not the same) model. IIRC, the only difference between yours and mine (the DAR125SLDD) is that the shelve supports in your model are molded into the sides of the interior of the fridge, while the shelves on the DAR125SLDD attach to a metal support in the back. Thus, to fit the two kegs and the CO2 tank inside, you need to remove the molded shelf supports.

As for the drilling, you should be OK with respect to cooling lines, but there is some electrical components you need to avoid. You should be able to use the measurements/template found in the following thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f252/danby-dar125sldd-kegerator-build-269314/

The above thread should answer most of your questions.

Thanks!!! That thread totally helped and answered all the questions I had. I built the kegerator yesterday. It only took a few hours and by following the tips in that thread everything went very smoothly.

 

[YeastMode]

Thanks!!! That thread totally helped and answered all the questions I had. I built the kegerator yesterday. It only took a few hours and by following the tips in that thread everything went very smoothly.

Hey glad it worked out for you! Enjoy your draft beer!

 

[dgil53]

Hello,

I just purchased the danby dar044a4bslddu mini fridge at costco to convert to a kegerator. I've seen a lot of posts and tutorials online for other danby models that are very similar to this one but not for this exact one. I was just wondering if anyone has built a kegerator from this model? I can squeeze two ball lock kegs in there barely with the co2 tank so I think once I take all the plastic off the door it should be fine. My main concern is if there are any coolant lines in the top that I need to be aware of.

Thanks in advance for any help on this!!

Hi, I just bought the same fridge at Costco, can you offer any advice on fitting the 2 kegs? With the molded sides I can't fit 2 in there. I would greatly appreciate all the help by email, text, FaceTime, whichever method. Thank you in advance.

 

[Gavin C]

Hi, I just bought the same fridge at Costco, can you offer any advice on fitting the 2 kegs? With the molded sides I can't fit 2 in there. I would greatly appreciate all the help by email, text, FaceTime, whichever method. Thank you in advance.

Those are 1/6 barrel kegs. There are not many mini-refrigerators that will fit two. I get two cornies and a 5lb CO2 tank in my Danby. They are narrower and contain 5 gallons each.

Danby Mini-Fridge Kegerator

 

[Beer0clock]

Hey I just wanted to chime in, as I just bought the same fridge - dar044a4bsldd.

I had a hell of a time with the plastic shelf crap on the door. I thought I could just dremel (cut) around the edge and pull the whole thing out, but no, the entire thing is glued to the door, so I had to to a whole lot more cutting than I planned, and now it looks like it was mangled by a lawnmower.

I'm going to put 2 taps into the door instead of a tower on the top, so my situation is a bit different.

Also, I have a 10 pound CO2 tank, which will not fit in the fridge with 2 Cornys. So what I'd really like to know is where on the sides of the fridge can I safely drill to get my CO2 lines in there?

 

[Detempt]

Hey automaton,

i got the exact same model and read that thread too, did you have any issues with drilling through the top with the electrical components in the light/stock temp controller? i was planning on using the measurement schematics that were drawn up in that thread and drilling the center of the hole 5 inches from the back of the fridge... is this what you did? you didnt run into any of the wiring from the light or temp controller? its hard to tell where that wiring runs up into the insulation, so any confirmation would be GREATLY appreciated,

i have my kegs on picnic lines now but looking forward to getting the tower set up

thanks in advance

 

[Gavin C]

No problem with wires if you go through the top just behind the light. There is a little metal panel that needs to be trimmed. That is all. Check out this youtube video. . I followed it and all tuned out well.

The tower attaches right to the metal of the fridge. No need to extend the screws all the way through to the inside of the fridge.

 

[dgil53]

Here are a few pictures of the inside of my fridge to fit 2 kegs corny and 1/6 with room for a 5lb tank. I used my grinder to shave the front of the door and the molded shelves about half way thru

 

[Tw4481]

Here are a few pics so far. It's still in progress...