kegerator build

[Fudlight]

I am currently in the process of building my own kegerator. I bought a nice used fridge and some random co2 equipment from craigslist. I want to be able to serve two beers at a time and carbonate two or more at the same time and was wondering if anyone had any good schematics for this kinda thing. The equipment I currently have is: 1 normal size fridge, 4 corny kegs, 2 double manifolds, 1 primary regulator, 1 secondary regulator, and 1 normal keg tap. Ordering my hookups for my cornies soon. Also going to be buying faucets soon and would like some input on which ones to buy as well. I am still contemplating a drip tray at the moment since it's in the garage of the house I rent and spillage isn't a big concern. I will upload some pictures of my equipment in the next day or two. Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Brulosopher]

I've built a kegerator with a similar setup, it's pretty easy. Here's the build for a simple keezer I did for a friend of mine, you might get some ideas from it. I definitely recommend going with Perlick faucets, I've had the cheaper chrome taps and they were terrible. Cheers!

 

[Grannyknot]

By carbonate, do you mean burst carb, like 30psi for a few days? Or just the ability to set it at serving pressure and forget it?
I would go with perlick faucets as well. A much better all around product. Well worth the price difference.

 

[Fudlight]

By carbonate, do you mean burst carb, like 30psi for a few days? Or just the ability to set it at serving pressure and forget it?

I would go with perlick faucets as well. A much better all around product. Well worth the price difference.

I just want to set my kegs at serving pressure and forget about them for a while.

 

[Fudlight]

I just want to set my kegs at serving pressure and forget about them for a while.

 

[Fudlight]

Is there a certain kind of perlick faucets that anyone would recommend for this application?

 

[Fudlight]

Fridge

Primary regulator, not sure if I have the right hook up for the tank. Thoughts, suggestions?

Secondary regulator

Manifolds

Tap for regular beers

 

[Grannyknot]

Any of the perlick faucets will do. I still use the 575ss.
Hard to tell with that regulator, but I believe that may be a nitrogen regulator, someone else will have to comment on using an adapter to co2. It looks pretty old, so it might be worth it to spend the money on a new one, just to make sure its accurate & doesn't leak. You should be able to get a new one with a splitter for $60-$70, maybe try the classifieds section here. I recently sold one for $35.
I'd pass on trying to use that secondary.
I'd leak test the manifolds, & if they seem ok, use them with your splitter.
You wont need the sanke tap for homebrew, but its nice to have around in case you want a commercial beer in your fridge.

A suggestion for the fridge....you might consider putting the taps on the side, so any tap handles you use don't interfere with opening the freezer door.

 

[Fudlight]

Any of the perlick faucets will do. I still use the 575ss.

Hard to tell with that regulator, but I believe that may be a nitrogen regulator, someone else will have to comment on using an adapter to co2. It looks pretty old, so it might be worth it to spend the money on a new one, just to make sure its accurate & doesn't leak. You should be able to get a new one with a splitter for $60-$70, maybe try the classifieds section here. I recently sold one for $35.

I'd pass on trying to use that secondary.

I'd leak test the manifolds, & if they seem ok, use them with your splitter.

You wont need the sanke tap for homebrew, but its nice to have around in case you want a commercial beer in your fridge.



A suggestion for the fridge....you might consider putting the taps on the side, so any tap handles you use don't interfere with opening the freezer door.

What's the difference between using a manifold like I have and a splitter? They seem like they would both serve the same purpose. I plan on bringing all of my co2 equipment to a place in town to get tested for leaks. The snake tap is just to have in case I want to have a commercial beer on tap sometime and because the guy threw it in for free when I bought the other stuff. I think your right about the primary regulator, I started looking at it closer when I got home and it does say it's for nitrogen but I'm going to bring it in and see if it's leaky and if there's a way to still use it.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Those manifolds pictured, probably don't have check valves in them, to keep beer from backing up into your gas lines, should that situation arise.

Don't know what kind of budget you are on, but most of that stuff looks pretty vintage, with the potential of dried up seals and what not, anxiously awaiting to frustrate you to no end, with CO2 leaks, and posts of "Where did all my CO2 go".

Were it me, I would want to introduce as few potential problems as possible, into my new / initial setup.

 

[Doed]

That regulator is definitely NOT for CO2. A CO2 regulator has a female connector. The pictured one has a male connector.

EDIT: I now see that you found out it is a nitrogen regulator, never mind, carry on...

 

[Fudlight]

Those manifolds pictured, probably don't have check valves in them, to keep beer from backing up into your gas lines, should that situation arise.

Don't know what kind of budget you are on, but most of that stuff looks pretty vintage, with the potential of dried up seals and what not, anxiously awaiting to frustrate you to no end, with CO2 leaks, and posts of "Where did all my CO2 go".

Were it me, I would want to introduce as few potential problems as possible, into my new / initial setup.

I am trying to keep things cheap since I will be moving in January and don't plan on keeping this one. I am going to be bringing in all of my equipment to get it tested for leaks before hooking it all up, so I will addressing these issues right away.

 

[Grannyknot]

What's the difference between using a manifold like I have and a splitter? They seem like they would both serve the same purpose......

I was thinking you said you wanted the ability to have 4 kegs on gas at any given time. You only have 2 two way manifolds, so you'll have to split the gas going to them.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I am trying to keep things cheap since I will be moving in January and don't plan on keeping this one. I am going to be bringing in all of my equipment to get it tested for leaks before hooking it all up, so I will addressing these issues right away.

Cool!

Just for your info, some properly mixed, ( or maybe a little stronger....), StarSan, and a toothbrush, will clean most of the corrosion crud off of those manifolds and what not.

 

[Fudlight]

Planning on picking up two used perlick faucets I found on this site tomorrow. My keg hook ups for my pin locks should be coming this week. Also buying a used primary regulator I found on here in case the other one won't work. I just have to pick up a co2 tank and I should be able to start putting all my parts together. I will post some pics of my equipment after I get it all cleaned up. I will also be posting about my equipment once I bring it all in for testing. I've been searching all over for cheap used co2 tanks but it seems that it will cost me about the same for a new one if the used one isn't certified.

 

[number40fan]

Save the money on what you would spend to get it tested and toss it all. Check valves are nice, and you really only need one coming off of the main regulator (that you need to purchase since that one is for nitrogen). "T"s will get you the split to all four of your kegs which would be perfect for the set and forget method. Even though I would recommend a four way manifold. You'll need 14-20' of 3/16" ID line. Hope the faucets you found have that type of connection. 7-10' per faucet to keep from foaming is the norm.

Now, lets hope the fridge works.

 

[Fudlight]

Save the money on what you would spend to get it tested and toss it all. Check valves are nice, and you really only need one coming off of the main regulator (that you need to purchase since that one is for nitrogen). "T"s will get you the split to all four of your kegs which would be perfect for the set and forget method. Even though I would recommend a four way manifold. You'll need 14-20' of 3/16" ID line. Hope the faucets you found have that type of connection. 7-10' per faucet to keep from foaming is the norm.



Now, lets hope the fridge works.

I find it pretty unnecessary to toss all of my equipment. I have a different primary on the way, but have also read that nitrogen regulators can be converted easily. I was planning on putting in a check valve off my primary and secondary. I want separate manifolds in case I want to try different pressures in the future. The faucets I have are perlick 545's.

Is it nice to have the beer lines on the longer or shorter side to help reduce foaming?

Fridge is not an issue, I've had it plugged in for a month now and have been using it as a beer fridge in my garage. I have the fridge set at 37 degrees and it has been holding that temp steady.

 

[Fudlight]

Picked my perlick faucets up in Denver Tuesday. All of pin lock connectors came yesterday. My co2 tank, and nitrogen regulator to co2 tank adapter arrived today. Hoping to have time to get my tank filled tomorrow and pick up some co2 hoses and beer lines so I can start assembling things next week and check everything for leaks. I'll post more pictures when I have free time.

Does anyone have suggestions for shank lengths to go through a fridge door?

I was originally planing on buying 4-1/2" shanks with the nipples built into the end, but the guy I bought the faucets from said I might want to go with 5-1/2". Any thoughts or suggestions will be taken into consideration.

Cheers!

 

[dnslater]

Get longer than you think. Not all of the length is useable

 

[Grannyknot]

I use 4 1/2" shanks through my fridge door.
Gives me about 3/4" of threads on the inside to screw the nut on.
I suppose it depends on your door thickness.

 

[xaq]

They're clearing out primary, single body, two gauge regulators here (the description is wrong, the picture is right):
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-single-gauge-regulator.html

Perlick (or other forward-sealing) faucets are preferred: the rear-sealing faucets can gum up when not used constantly. Roto faucets are another option, but not cheap. If you find a good deal on a stout faucet, you might want to pick it up (you can always use it as a regular faucet by removing the restrictor plate) in case you go dual-gas later.

Longer shanks are needed for installation in thicker walls (like refrigerators), but longer shanks can also help keep the beer (and faucet) colder.

Chrome-plated brass parts are cheaper, and won't ruin your beer or your build, but stainless steel is better for the long haul.

Splitters require you to have two active connections, or else the CO2 will leak out, while a distributor will have cut-offs that you can use to seal the system if you have one of the connections inactive (and yes, there are also splitters with cut-offs).

Determining beer line length isn't hard math, but just saying 'four and a half feet at 38F and 13PSI' may not work for you, depending on altitude/beer style/etc, so I'll point you towards a link or two:
http://www.newbelgium.com/files/Basics%20of%20Draught%20Dispense.pdf
https://byo.com/stories/item/164-balancing-your-draft-system-advanced-brewing


Whether or not you move the refrigerator, you can certainly salvage all the air and beer plumbing and install it on another system later, so don't be afraid to get decent parts if you can find deals on them.

 

[Fudlight]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416689371.102854.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416689392.620304.jpg got my perlick faucets a while but never posted pics
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416689437.128452.jpg also got my co2 tank. I tested my primary regulator for leaks and all seems well.

Hoping to have time after watching my game today to pick up some shanks and hoses to start plumbing the whole thing, but we will see if I can hold off from drinking beer that long.

Cheers!

 

[Fudlight]

Got my faucets mounted and my liquid lines all hooked up. Going to finish hooking up my gas lines tomorrow.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416797635.705981.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416797653.706295.jpg

 

[Doed]

@Fudlight - what size fridge is that? When my current keezer croaks, I'm thinking I may go to a kegerator. Inside dimensions would be great.

 

[Fudlight]

With my plywood shelf on the bottom is measures 27" tall, about 17" deep, and 25" wide.

 

[Fudlight]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416883126.945149.jpg made up a makeshift tap handle for now
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416883162.739869.jpgbeer lines and gas hoses hooked up
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416883190.596307.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416883204.213212.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1416883224.711459.jpg just picked up a 1/4 barrel of 5 barrel pale ale from Odell's to test out the new kegerator. Just have to wait for the beer to settle for a while before I can start enjoying some beers on tap

 

[Fudlight]

Does anyone know if there is a growler filler that fits a perlick 645 or 650?

 

[Doed]

Why not use a piece of silicone tubing?

 

[dnslater]

Does anyone know if there is a growler filler that fits a perlick 645 or 650?

Doesn't the one from the 630, fit all 600 series?

http://www.homebrewing.org/630SS-Perlick-growler-filler_p_4871.html