Keg fermenting

[redrocker652002]

OK, so my plan is to get my ferm fridge ready to go for my next brew to ferment in a keg. My question is, should it have a dry hop component, how would I hook up the tubing? Is it gas post on the ferm keg to gas post on the dry hop keg, then blowoff tube to a bottle of starsan? Assuming I have floating dip tubes on each. Then, once done, I hook up the liquid on the dry hop keg to the liquid on the serving keg, add the CO2 to the gas post of the dry hop keg and transfer? I know I can probably look it all up on Youtube, but thought I would ask just for the heck of it.

Edit; I am going to post at AHA just to see what some of those folks say. In an effort of full transparency, I want to get as much info as I can. Thanks

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Although I have not done it, I hear people talking about putting a SS washer or something in your hop bag and keeping it on the lid with a rare earth magnet. When it's time to hop, pull the magnet. Seems like a decent trick.

 

[Willy]

A corny keg lid with a 1 1/2"tri-clamp
https://www.amazon.com/stainless-Co...e-Hopper/dp/B0C48TM7F1/ref=asc_df_B0C48TM7F1/

I was told by someone about these... Didn't get one yet but probably will sometime to do faster keg transfers or hop drop.

I am doing a hop drop for a conical with 1 1/2" tri-clamp port. All items below are for 1 1/2" tri-clamp connections.
1) ball valve
2) sight glass (or ss tube)
3) adapter 2" to 1 1/2 triclamp reducer

4) (this is a 2" tri-clamp accessory). corny gas post and PRV
https://www.amazon.com/TRI-CLOVER-TAPPING-Accessories-Homebrew-Fermenter/dp/B0C3G9WQFX/

Ball/or butterfly valve is closed initially.
Add hops to sight glass. Hook up CO2 and purge chamber. Add a little pressure if needed to match fermenter pressure. Just a few psi more ... So hops get sucked into fermenter under pressure and gravity.
Open ball valve to let the hops in. Close ball valve to keep out oxygen .

 

[CascadesBrewer]

OK, so my plan is to get my ferm fridge ready to go for my next brew to ferment in a keg. My question is, should it have a dry hop component, how would I hook up the tubing? Is it gas post on the ferm keg to gas post on the dry hop keg, then blowoff tube to a bottle of starsan? Assuming I have floating dip tubes on each. Then, once done, I hook up the liquid on the dry hop keg to the liquid on the serving keg, add the CO2 to the gas post of the dry hop keg and transfer? I know I can probably look it all up on Youtube, but thought I would ask just for the heck of it.

Not using kegs, but I believe @Dgallo some something similar with two Fermonster fermenters with gas posts.

I am curious about this myself. I like the idea of keg fermenting, but have only done it for beers that were not dry hopped. I envision using a 6.5 gal keg and a lid with a TC port...but that is a good $200 and I already have too much equipment around!

 

[Willy]

Not using kegs, but I believe @Dgallo some something similar with two Fermonster fermenters with gas posts.

I am curious about this myself. I like the idea of keg fermenting, but have only done it for beers that were not dry hopped. I envision using a 6.5 gal keg and a lid with a TC port...but that is a good $200 and I already have too much equipment around!

I started with just the 6.5 gal keg... And LOVED IT. STILL DO. (It was about $150 several months ago).

And put together a KegLand PRV spunding, gauge thing attached to a gas post. The keg came with a floating beer dip tube thingamabob .
Very happy how the beers came out, especially the cold temp fermenting varieties (lager, pilsner)

 

[wdavis2003]

If you want to use 3 kegs for one brew, yes, you can do it like that. I've heard recently it's good to dry hop while the beer is off the yeast so I'm all for having a middle dry hop keg if you want.

You'll want ferm keg liquid post to secondary keg liquid post. Secondary keg gas post should either have a spunding valve or a blow off tube to a bottle of star san. That will purge the secondary keg with CO2 from primary fermentation. You could add your dry hop to the secondary keg in the middle of fermentation and because it's being purged with O2 from fermentation, the hops will stay fresh.

Once, you are ready to move the liquid from your secondary 'dry hop' keg to a serving keg, yes.. liquid post to liquid post while pumping CO2 into the gas post of the dry hop keg.

 

[James_AZ]

I fermented in 6 g kegs. My eventual standard was for the first 2-3 days, depending on yeast, just let it rage into an airlock. For an airlock i had some tube on a gas ball lock running to a half full of star san 20oz soda bottle. The soda bottle was bungeed to the side of the fermenter.

After most of the fermentation was done, i’d then dry hop and spund to about 5 psi

 

[redrocker652002]

Great suggestions folks thank you all for taking the time. This weekend I think I am going to try and get the collar in place and secured. I have about 10 to 12 kegs, half of which I have tested and hold pressure. If this works then no more bottling and I can keep kegs in my ferm fridge at lower temps once fermentation is done and they will be at the ready. Awesome stuff for sure.

 

[Willy]

Just got 4 nice used cornys from beverage element for about $38/each. Very well cleaned (industrial clean!). Currently doing a PBW & star San ... & Will put them under pressure to finish the... Ready to keg em status.

Btw... The used CF-10 is looking fine! Cleaned and cleaned... And added some bling. (2 sight glass add-ons... Cheapo from Amazon) And the newer top with (3) 1 1/2" tri-clamp ports .

 

[BongoYodeler]

OK, so my plan is to get my ferm fridge ready to go for my next brew to ferment in a keg. My question is, should it have a dry hop component, how would I hook up the tubing? Is it gas post on the ferm keg to gas post on the dry hop keg, then blowoff tube to a bottle of starsan? Assuming I have floating dip tubes on each. Then, once done, I hook up the liquid on the dry hop keg to the liquid on the serving keg, add the CO2 to the gas post of the dry hop keg and transfer? I know I can probably look it all up on Youtube, but thought I would ask just for the heck of it.

Edit; I am going to post at AHA just to see what some of those folks say. In an effort of full transparency, I want to get as much info as I can. Thanks

I started a similar thread a while back, you may want to skim through it. Lots of good tips there.

I currently have an amber ale fermenting in a corny keg, but it's a smaller batch, and I'm not dry hopping it, so it's easy. Just ferment, cold crash, and transfer under pressure.

 

[Broken Crow]

This weekend I think I am going to try and get the collar in place and secured.

does that refer to a chest freezer or is this the 'dorm-fridge'? ...If you have the height for a dry-hopper, wether DIY or Hop-Bong https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hopbongkit15.htm and the lid like @Willy mentioned (also available @ https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cornylidtc.htm ) You might want to include that in you mod so you can skip the extra keg.

 

[redrocker652002]

I started a similar thread a while back, you may want to skim through it. Lots of good tips there.

I currently have an amber ale fermenting in a corny keg, but it's a smaller batch, and I'm not dry hopping it, so it's easy. Just ferment, cold crash, and transfer under pressure.

Read thru most of the posts. Seems I can connect a line from the gas port of the ferm keg to liquid port of the dry hop keg. Use the CO2 gasses from the fermentation to purge my dry hop keg. Once fermentation is done, run a line from the liquid post of the ferm keg to the liquid post of the dry hop keg, attach CO2 to the gas post of the ferm keg and transfer. Once dry hop is done, do the same from the dry hop keg to the serving keg and boom, no O2 exposure and hopefully successful beer. LOL.

 

[redrocker652002]

does that refer to a chest freezer or is this the 'dorm-fridge'? ...If you have the height for a dry-hopper, wether DIY or Hop-Bong https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hopbongkit15.htm and the lid like @Willy mentioned (also available @ https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cornylidtc.htm ) You might want to include that in you mod so you can skip the extra keg.

This is a dorm fridge. I am going to try it using two kegs and just run tubing to see if it works. Those are good ideas though and once I get my process down I will check them out. Height is a bit limited in the fridge so those items might not work right now.

 

[BongoYodeler]

does that refer to a chest freezer or is this the 'dorm-fridge'? ...If you have the height for a dry-hopper, wether DIY or Hop-Bong https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hopbongkit15.htm and the lid like @Willy mentioned (also available @ https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cornylidtc.htm ) You might want to include that in you mod so you can skip the extra keg.

So, the Corny Keg Lid With TC Port and the Hop Bong Dry Hopper Kit - 1.5" TC plus the Butterfly valve all from Brew Hardware are all I need to have a hop bong atop a normal 5 gallon ball lock corny keg? If so I see an order going in soon.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Read thru most of the posts. Seems I can connect a line from the gas port of the ferm keg to liquid port of the dry hop keg. Use the CO2 gasses from the fermentation to purge my dry hop keg. Once fermentation is done, run a line from the liquid post of the ferm keg to the liquid post of the dry hop keg, attach CO2 to the gas post of the ferm keg and transfer. Once dry hop is done, do the same from the dry hop keg to the serving keg and boom, no O2 exposure and hopefully successful beer. LOL.

I've done the three keg setup. Add the serving keg in the chain and fermentation gas from the first keg will purge the other two.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/fermenting-in-a-corny-keg.674875/post-10195135

 

[Broken Crow]

This is a dorm fridge. I am going to try it using two kegs and just run tubing to see if it works. Those are good ideas though and once I get my process down I will check them out. Height is a bit limited in the fridge so those items might not work right now.

I just think about space and maximum keg count...have you ever considered an inline Randall?
https://alesofthedead.com/2017/06/09/inline-randall-with-quick-disconnects/
Just a thought

 

[Broken Crow]

OK... I admit; I'm just trying to exercise my brain...
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=10+inch+...ter+filter+,aps,87&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_21
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npthexbush.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npt12tokegpostliquid.htm
I had bought one of those cartridge filters a few years back with a 5-micron paper filter to try out filtering my beer and it was more trouble than it was worth, however; I still have the filter housing and I'll be repurposing it to a Randall to use with a 12V RV water pump that I've swaged 1/4"(6.35mm)ID EVABarrier line on to the 3/8" barbs when I need to make an IPA.

 

[mac_1103]

the Corny Keg Lid With TC Port and the Hop Bong Dry Hopper Kit - 1.5" TC plus the Butterfly valve all from Brew Hardware are all I need to have a hop bong atop a normal 5 gallon ball lock corny keg?

So how tall does all of that wind up being?

 

[redrocker652002]

I just think about space and maximum keg count...have you ever considered an inline Randall?
https://alesofthedead.com/2017/06/09/inline-randall-with-quick-disconnects/
Just a thought

That is a pretty cool little do dad. LOL. Right now, I have everything I need and it isn't costing me anything but time. So, with that said, I am going to try and keep it rather simple first and if it works out, then start thinking of the "cool" stuff. Thanks for the info.

 

[redrocker652002]

I've done the three keg setup. Add the serving keg in the chain and fermentation gas from the first keg will purge the other two.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/fermenting-in-a-corny-keg.674875/post-10195135

I would do just that, but space in the ferm fridge is limited to two kegs with the 2x6 collar. Plus, my kegerator only fits one Torpedo keg, so I am very limited (1) to the kegs I can fit in there. My thought is, if I still have beer in my serving keg, I can keep the next beer in the ferm keg and time it so that the dry hop and serving kegs are ready to go within 4 or 5 days. Or, just have a storage keg at the ready to store the completed beer in the ferm fridge at serving temp. I think the options will open up as I get to doing this and trying it.

 

[Broken Crow]

So how tall does all of that wind up being?

Honestly I'd like to know too! I've been considering a hop-bong for the sanke fermenters that sit on my basement floor, but I do have another fridge on my very long-term fantasy shopping list (when I can find the space for it )

 

[Deadalus]

Honestly I'd like to know too! I've been considering a hop-bong for the sanke fermenters that sit on my basement floor, but I do have another fridge on my very long-term fantasy shopping list (when I can find the space for it )

With the butterfly valve before the hop bong, the hop bong can be taken off after dropping the hops and then a blank can replace it.

 

[mashdar]

With the butterfly valve before the hop bong, the hop bong can be taken off after dropping the hops and then a blank can replace it.

The blank is an extra good idea if it'll sit for long. The seals in the butterfly valves tend to be silicone. It also keeps the valve innards clean.

I don't have one of these lids, but if I did, I'd leave a TC blank on the top of the valve, and leave the valve cracked during primary to make sure the top of the valve purges.

 

[Yesfan]

So, the Corny Keg Lid With TC Port and the Hop Bong Dry Hopper Kit - 1.5" TC plus the Butterfly valve all from Brew Hardware are all I need to have a hop bong atop a normal 5 gallon ball lock corny keg? If so I see an order going in soon.

Yep. If your keg doesn't have one, I'd also add a floating dip tube with a filter on the end to that list. This will keep the hop debris from clogging your disconnects during a transfer to your serving keg, or if you're serving from the primary keg, if you're dry hopping commando style.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Yep. If your keg doesn't have one, I'd also add a floating dip tube with a filter on the end to that list. This will keep the hop debris from clogging your disconnects during a transfer to your serving keg, or if you're serving from the primary keg, if you're dry hopping commando style.

Thanks, I already have a couple fdt’s, so I have that covered.

 

[Yesfan]

Thanks, I already have a couple fdt’s, so I have that covered.

On another note, I think I would get the one from Bobby M. The one linked to Amazon doesn't seem to have favorable reviews. Plus Bobby's is $2 cheaper.

 

[BongoYodeler]

On another note, I think I would get the one from Bobby M. The one linked to Amazon doesn't seem to have favorable reviews. Plus Bobby's is $2 cheaper.

Yep. If/when I pull the trigger I'll definitely go through Bobby.

 

[BongoYodeler]

So, the Corny Keg Lid With TC Port and the Hop Bong Dry Hopper Kit - 1.5" TC plus the Butterfly valve all from Brew Hardware are all I need to have a hop bong atop a normal 5 gallon ball lock corny keg? If so I see an order going in soon.

Paging @Bobby_M Getting closer to pulling the trigger on this Brew Hardware setup to dry hop in a 5 gallon corny keg, but I'm leaning towards spending a little more and going with the 2" hop bong setup rather than the 1.5" if it can work. Reason being is the 2" would accommodate far more hops at a time on those massive dry hop additions needed for neipa's. If my thinking is correct I'd have to add the 2" to 1.5" reducer to make it work with a corny, but I'm wondering if reducing the path would impede or even prevent the hops from dropping. Also, going this route, would the reducer go above or below the butterfly valve?

 

[Willy]

Paging @Bobby_M Getting closer to pulling the trigger on this Brew Hardware setup to dry hop in a 5 gallon corny keg, but I'm leaning towards spending a little more and going with the 2" hop bong setup rather than the 1.5" if it can work. Reason being is the 2" would accommodate far more hops at a time on those massive dry hop additions needed for neipa's. If my thinking is correct I'd have to add the 2" to 1.5" reducer to make it work with a corny, but I'm wondering if reducing the path would impede or even prevent the hops from dropping. Also, going this route, would the reducer go above or below the butterfly valve?

I put one together that is a hybrid of 1 1/2" and 2" triclamp.
Top to bottom
2" PRV and gas post
2" - 1" long, ss tube
2" to 1 1 1/2" ss reducer
1 1/2" sight glass
1 1/2" butterfly valve

Had I known about Brewhardware I would have just gotten Bobby's solution.

 

[Bobby_M]

I think we ought to pause and see if hops will drop into the slightly smaller than 1.5" tubing going into the lid. I know that as long as the hops drop through a 2" butterfly, they have no problem reducing down to 1.5" through the concentric.

 

[BongoYodeler]

I think we ought to pause and see if hops will drop into the slightly smaller than 1.5" tubing going into the lid. I know that as long as the hops drop through a 2" butterfly, they have no problem reducing down to 1.5" through the concentric.

Yeah, that was my concern too. Is this something you'd be willing or able to test? If not, or if it doesn't work then I would probably just go 1.5" all the way. Thanks.

 

[Deadalus]

Yeah, that was my concern too. Is this something you'd be willing or able to test? If not, or if it doesn't work then I would probably just go 1.5" all the way. Thanks.

I have the 1.5" hop bong. I found it didn't work well at all with a ball valve below it and switched to a butterfly valve (1.5"). With the ball valve they got really stuck and I had to take off the hop bong to unclog and get them in. With the butterfly valve, they still can hang up but the disk in the valve helps to "scoop" the hops and I am pretty sure the opening is bigger anyway. I just gently chop (2-3x) the valve with my hand to shake them loose. I think the 2" would be better however keep in mind to do that with a reducer, the butterfly valve will need to be above the reducer. So you would be stuck with both the keg lid TC tube and the reducer above the keg and before the valve. Could be a bit tall if you use a ferm chamber. You'd need to fit lid +reducer+valve height. You will fit more with the 2" version, I had to do two drops on a recent NEIPA. It's minor as far as time. Good to know that the hops will slide down the reducer though. It's a pretty steep angle.

Another option is to pulverize your pellet hops into a powder. @day_trippr does this, not sure if it is with a hop bong (he uses carboys) but I think his reasoning is they don't sink as fast/better utilization. I think I will try it next time myself but I have three IPA's on tap at the moment so it won't be anytime soon!

 

[Bobby_M]

I know for sure that hops do not consistently drop through a 1.5" butterfly valve. I tested it thoroughly when I first got the hop bongs in. The ID of the tubing that goes into the lid has an ID of 1-1/8" which is a 1/4" smaller in diameter than a 1.5" TC. You can see the 1/8" ledge in the picture below.. which incidentally has no effect on the hops dropping. In case it's not clear, that's a 2" x 1.5" concentric reducer.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Could be a bit tall if you use a ferm chamber. You'd need to fit lid +reducer+valve height. You will fit more with the 2" version, I had to do two drops on a recent NEIPA. It's minor as far as time. Good to know that the hops will slide down the reducer though. It's a pretty steep angle.

*above has been edited by me to highlight.

Can't you just close the butterfly valve and remove the hop bong, then secure a cap? That would at least shorten by the height of the hop bong.

My thought is, top to bottom:
2" Hop Bong asmy
2" butterfly valve
2.0 to 1.5 concentric reducer
corny keg lid with tc port
**This assumes the hop pellets pass through smaller diameter corny keg lid, which I *can't* assume they do based on Bobby's post.

*(edited due to typing while not thinking)

 

[Deadalus]

*above has been edited by me to highlight.

Can't you just close the butterfly valve and remove the hop bong, then secure a cap? That would at least shorten by the height of the hop bong.

My thought is, top to bottom:
2" Hop Bong asmy
2" butterfly valve
2.0 to 1.5 concentric reducer
corny keg lid with tc port
**This assumes the hop pellets pass through smaller diameter corny keg lid, which I assume they do based on Bobby's post/pic.

Yes. That's how I was thinking of it. The reducer will add about 3" and that is on top of whatever the extra height is on the lid and probably a little extra from the 2" butterfly valve. Carboys were so tight in my minifridge ferm chambers that I couldn't get an airlock on well enough and instead used a metal blowoff tube. A ball lock keg is about 2" taller than a 6.5 gal carboy. I fermented a few times in kegs but I saved two pin locks for doing it. They are about the same height as a carboy. Depends on your temperature control conditions though and the styles you are using it for.

 

[Broken Crow]

*above has been edited by me to highlight.

Can't you just close the butterfly valve and remove the hop bong, then secure a cap? That would at least shorten by the height of the hop bong.

My thought is, top to bottom:
2" Hop Bong asmy
2" butterfly valve
2.0 to 1.5 concentric reducer
corny keg lid with tc port
**This assumes the hop pellets pass through smaller diameter corny keg lid, which I *can't* assume they do based on Bobby's post.

*(edited due to typing while not thinking)

Just a thought: if height is gonna be an issue but you're determined to have a dry hopper, as long as you don't need to spund but only need the FV to hold enough pressure to transfer through a floating diptube, you could always use a 5G milk can (a-la Bracconiere). The lid has plenty of room for a 2" TC bulkhead + Gas and liquid posts and it'll hold about 5 psi....Plus they have really nice handles for easy moving. Lower than a corny, narrower than a carboy.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Just a thought: if height is gonna be an issue but you're determined to have a dry hopper, as long as you don't need to spund but only need the FV to hold enough pressure to transfer through a floating diptube, you could always use a 5G milk can (a-la Bracconiere). The lid has plenty of room for a 2" TC bulkhead + Gas and liquid posts and it'll hold about 5 psi....Plus they have really nice handles for easy moving. Lower than a corny, narrower than a carboy.

Thanks. Yeah, I do remember Brac's milk can. But I'm looking for a more ready-made solution. Height may not be an issue as I'm also considering buying a used, or possibly new, mid size upright freezer to use as a fermentation chamber.

 

[Broken Crow]

Thanks. Yeah, I do remember Brac's milk can. But I'm looking for a more ready-made solution. Height may not be an issue as I'm also considering buying a used, or possibly new, mid size upright freezer to use as a fermentation chamber.

Well.. If you reconsider:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2wlf.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npt12tokegpostgas.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/bulkheadblg.htm
https://www.kegconnection.com/flotit-2-0-stainless-steel-floating-dip-tube-no-beer-left-behind/
... I didn't look up the hole-punches, but that part is dead-simple.
JIC

 

[BongoYodeler]

*above has been edited by me to highlight.

Can't you just close the butterfly valve and remove the hop bong, then secure a cap? That would at least shorten by the height of the hop bong.

My thought is, top to bottom:
2" Hop Bong asmy
2" butterfly valve
2.0 to 1.5 concentric reducer
corny keg lid with tc port
**This assumes the hop pellets pass through smaller diameter corny keg lid, which I *can't* assume they do based on Bobby's post.

*(edited due to typing while not thinking)

*above has been edited by me to highlight.

Can't you just close the butterfly valve and remove the hop bong, then secure a cap? That would at least shorten by the height of the hop bong.

My thought is, top to bottom:
2" Hop Bong asmy
2" butterfly valve
2.0 to 1.5 concentric reducer
corny keg lid with tc port
**This assumes the hop pellets pass through smaller diameter corny keg lid, which I *can't* assume they do based on Bobby's post.

*(edited due to typing while not thinking)

Having thought about this for a couple weeks I decided to take the plunge and order the parts from @Bobby_M at BrewHardware to see if I can make this work. Worst case, if the hops get stuck and don't drop successfully I can try first grinding them with my old coffee grinder, as suggested by somebody(?).

So the package from Brew Hardware arrived earlier today, and in anticipation I had a cleaned and dried 5 gallon corny keg ready and waiting. I sacrificed some old hops I had in the back of my garage freezer, like really old - 6 or 7 years old!! I kept thinking I was saving them for an eventual brew day, but that someday never came. But now they have a new purpose - testing this new dry hopping process.

I assembled it this evening and opened an unused 4oz bag of Cluster hop pellets that were several years old. These are very small sized pellets for some reason, about half the size I'm used to seeing. I dumped about an ounce into the hop bong as a first test, opened the butterfly valve, and down they went, quickly and without even slowing down. I then added the other three ounces to the hop bong and...success. But will it work as well with "normal" size hop pellets? I had a freezer bag, hand-written with a Sharpie - 5.7oz of El Dorado hops and a date of 2017, perfect for this experiment. I dumped in an ounce, maybe less, and opened the valve....down they went. Well hell, let's just try adding the remaining 4 to 5 ounces all at once, (they all fit in the 2" diameter hop bong). After adding them I released the valve and down they went. Well, all but a few, maybe, (guessing), 1/2 an ounce of pellets. They were stuck below the butterfly valve, probably in the less-than-1.5 inch keg-top port, so "chopping" with the valve as suggested by @Deadalus wasn't going to help in this case. I smacked the side of the keg but that didn't dislodge them either. I finally lifted the keg off the floor about 2 or 3 inches and lightly smacked it back down on the floor. Success, the rest dropped. Not ideal but it worked.

More testing is definitely required, but it seems the experiment was mostly a success, it actually worked better than I thought it would. Maybe a slower, more controlled drop will work better? Maybe just less at a time? Not sure, I'll play around with this some more before I try it for real. But this looks promising.

 

[Deadalus]

I have a 1.5" hop bong with a butterfly valve under it. But the chopping sort of action I mentioned with the valve was more about the hops not dropping from above the valve. That is, open the valve and the hops remain suspended. An easy tap and they may start to fall but get stuck. That's where the valve can sort of scoop/chop some and then the hops may break loose. Don't fully close the valve when chopping, that helps too. I suppose if they got stuck underneath the valve could sweep that area some but not far into where they may get stuck. Beyond that I'm not sure I have any spots they have gotten stuck but sounds like some shaking solves that.

Depending on the packaging the old hops were perhaps dessicated or abraded some having been moved around repeatedly.