Keg disaster!!

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Jamie02173

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This is my second double batch of beer ive made but on this occasion its has gone horribly wrong! I possibly didnt put in my temperature controller probe properly and I noticed today it was beginning to freeze so I turned off the power. I was hoping the kegs did not freeze but looks like it was a lot colder and possibly has slightly frozen the kegs im thing maybe 23f. To make matters worse possibly because of the freezing pressure my beer has passed through the gas feed and is coming out the release valve top right of my regulator( in pic) also a lot of beer seems to have leaked out as its obviously thawing. Does anyone know if the beer is ruined? Are my post on my corny keg possibly damaged? Is it the freezing has caused this? I have disconnected my regulator and looks like any liquid has dripped out. I have also purged both kegs to release pressure.
 

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Your beer will probably be fine, it’s not any different than if you left a can of beer in the freezer. You may have some damage to the keg fittings but you probably won’t know until the keg thaws.

I would let the keg defrost and see what happens.
 
Cheers guys I guess ive learned myself the hardway! Im sure ill figure it out, my inkbird, regulator and kegs are all new so if its the inkbird then thats means its garbage! Ill thaw and recarb for a day at the right temp and hope for the best
 
Cheers guys I guess ive learned myself the hardway! Im sure ill figure it out, my inkbird, regulator and kegs are all new so if its the inkbird then thats means its garbage! Ill thaw and recarb for a day at the right temp and hope for the best

Where was the temp probe?
 
Where was the temp probe?
I usually have it hanging in my chest freezer but may have slipped out during the movement as i transferred my gas and kegs back to the fridge after kegging and i just didnt realise until today! Do you think i should tape the probe at the side of one of the kegs?
 
I could be facing more then just the frozen problem i noticed a few days ago when i tried to raise the psi above 12 the valve top right of regulator begin releasing gas almost like it couldnt handle more pressure and this same valve is the one the beer backflowed from the corny keg
 

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I usually have it hanging in my chest freezer but may have slipped out during the movement as i transferred my gas and kegs back to the fridge after kegging and i just didnt realise until today! Do you think i should tape the probe at the side of one of the kegs?


That’s your problem. You don’t want to read the air temperature of the kegerator/keezer. I’m assuming you are serving or lagering if you have temps that low. If so, you want to put your temp probe in a cup or bottle of water so that you are reading the temperature of a liquid rather than air temp. The air temp, especially at the top of a keezer or kegerator, will be significantly higher than the temperature of the beer in the keg.
 
That’s your problem. You don’t want to read the air temperature of the kegerator/keezer. I’m assuming you are serving or lagering if you have temps that low. If so, you want to put your temp probe in a cup or bottle of water so that you are reading the temperature of a liquid rather than air temp. The air temp, especially at the top of a keezer or kegerator, will be significantly higher than the temperature of the beer in the keg.
Ill do that thanks as the inkbird is new its doubtful its faulty already! I tried to pour from it without gas just to test it and it gave me 4 pints of thick foam. I allowed it to settle for a minute so i could probe and it was about 38f and thats 4 hours later so it was only slightly frozen. Im thinking i could have overfilled the kegs also. They are both lager clones, peroni and heineken and ill be honest they dont taste great either!
 
Ill do that thanks as the inkbird is new its doubtful its faulty already! I tried to pour from it without gas just to test it and it gave me 4 pints of thick foam. I allowed it to settle for a minute so i could probe and it was about 38f and thats 4 hours later so it was only slightly frozen. Im thinking i could have overfilled the kegs also. They are both lager clones, peroni and heineken and ill be honest they dont taste great either!
Just check to see if the temperature probe you are using is suitable for use in liquids. Not all are. If not, taping to the side of a keg with some insulation (foam, bubble wrap etc.) is a good way to go.
 
I will check both methods! Ive done a lot of research since and im unsure wether my regulator is made to release any liquid from the safety blow off, if so i should not have to dismantle and clean the regulator. Ive also heard a check valve is the way forward for ensuring beer does not enter my gas line. Im hoping with the pressure released and beer at fridge temp i can reconnect my gas without having this problem again as i have to wait for the shops to reopen to buy and bits! If my keg posts are damaged im assuming i cannot change while the kegs are both full!
 
Jamie,
I see no reason why you couldn't change the keg posts with them full. Just let the pressure off while you make the change.

Best of luck!
 
The air temp, especially at the top of a keezer or kegerator, will be significantly higher than the temperature of the beer in the keg.

The air temp at the top will be somewhat higher, but the average temperature of the air surrounding the keg will be the same as the average temperature of the beer inside the keg.

The air temp (surrounding the keg) will be more variable than the beer temp, as will the temperature of a cup of water.

In my keezer, I hang the probe at mid keg level.
 
I have frozen beer more than once. I think the best method is for a water bottle with a hole drilled in the lid with the probe in the water. The beer was always O.K. after Defrosting
 
The air temp at the top will be somewhat higher, but the average temperature of the air surrounding the keg will be the same as the average temperature of the beer inside the keg.

The air temp (surrounding the keg) will be more variable than the beer temp, as will the temperature of a cup of water.

In my keezer, I hang the probe at mid keg level.

The air temp in the top of my kegerator is 50 degrees. The beer coming out of the keg is 39 degrees. “Significant” is a relative term, and when we’re talking about the difference between keeping your beer at serving temperature and freezing it, I would consider that significant.
 
I have a small computer fan in my DIY mini fridge kegerator that blows air up the tap post. I presume it also circulates air throughout the mini fridge sufficiently to keep temperature evenly distributed. For my kegerator and my fermentation chamber [another mini fridge) I just the probe wire on top of the keg/fermenter and let the probe drape along side.
 
The air temp in the top of my kegerator is 50 degrees. The beer coming out of the keg is 39 degrees. “Significant” is a relative term, and when we’re talking about the difference between keeping your beer at serving temperature and freezing it, I would consider that significant.

As I said, the air temp that matters is the average air temp surrounding the keg, not the air temp at the top of your kegerator. My beer doesn't freeze, because I measure the appropriate air temp.
 
As I said, the air temp that matters is the average air temp surrounding the keg, not the air temp at the top of your kegerator. My beer doesn't freeze, because I measure the appropriate air temp.

I didn’t say the temp at the top of the kegerator/keezer is what “matters.” I made it pretty clear that you don’t want to measure that temperature. I don’t know where the OP hangs his temp probe. All I do know is that hanging it in the top could result in frozen beer and that liquid temps are more stable than air temps, thus my advice to him. If your method works for you, that’s great. The OP can determine what works best for him.
 
Im sure one of the disasters was the probe slipped out of the back of the freezer lid when i was placing my system back in place! This would explain the freezer remaing on full blast as it would have been at ambient and trying to reach a cooler temp. I also think i might have damaged the beer as i left it carbonate in my shed and from what i have now learned the co2 will begin to seperate from the liquid if exposed to warmer then fridge temps so now i have foamy frozen beer!! But i will learn! I am trying the probe in water and it seems to read accurate although i have my inkbird set higher (temps in celcius)
 

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I didn’t say the temp at the top of the kegerator/keezer is what “matters.” I made it pretty clear that you don’t want to measure that temperature. I don’t know where the OP hangs his temp probe. All I do know is that hanging it in the top could result in frozen beer and that liquid temps are more stable than air temps, thus my advice to him. If your method works for you, that’s great. The OP can determine what works best for him.
I may have been letting it carlessly hang and could have been top of the kegerator but i wont make dat mistake again im going to set my temp slighlty higher and see how i get on around 36 to 40 f as i originally had it set at 34
 
I have a small computer fan in my DIY mini fridge kegerator that blows air up the tap post. I presume it also circulates air throughout the mini fridge sufficiently to keep temperature evenly distributed. For my kegerator and my fermentation chamber [another mini fridge) I just the probe wire on top of the keg/fermenter and let the probe drape along side.
I do this as well. I found I was getting a 15f differential. A 120mm pc fan lowered that to 5f and I get better pours from the keg. A tower cooler is next on the list.
 
Jamie,
I see no reason why you couldn't change the keg posts with them full. Just let the pressure off while you make the change.

Best of luck!
Ill find it
I do this as well. I found I was getting a 15f differential. A 120mm pc fan lowered that to 5f and I get better pours from the keg. A tower cooler is next on the list.
Is it much trouble installing a fan and does it consume much power? It would not be a bad idea in my case as its
FWIW I've switched to using these for my gas line ball locks:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/cm-becker-check-valved-ball-lock-gas-flare.htmlI like that the check valve means not having to worry about accidentally sending anything along with CO2 between tanks when pressure varies, or worse, sending anything back up the line to my regulator if keg pressure is too high, overfilled, etc.
Thats what happened to me and i didnt even know beer could get into my gas line and into my regulator.. im debating whether or not to dismantle the regulator to check the inside for damage
 
Is it much trouble installing a fan and does it consume much power? It would not be a bad idea in my case as its

very easy. Drill a small hole in the wall. There are dc and ac computer fans. Most are dc, just splice into an old phone charger. You can also use the hole to feed the temp probe, I had some vinyl tubing from a plumb job I did for my fish tank sump around that I used to direct air into the tap tower.
 
Frozen beer will give you a $hit ton of foam. Thaw the beer and the lines all the way and try again.
Thats the plan id say its thawed now and off the gas 2 days so im thinking leave it at fridge temp for a day and back on the gas and see if it improves!
 
very easy. Drill a small hole in the wall. There are dc and ac computer fans. Most are dc, just splice into an old phone charger. You can also use the hole to feed the temp probe, I had some vinyl tubing from a plumb job I did for my fish tank sump around that I used to direct air into the tap tower.
I have a kegerator in pre production! Im using a picnic tap for now until i figure out what way i want the tap system. Im afraid to drill into the walls of my chest freezer so im thinking a wooden frame on top and adjusting the lid might give me all the space i need for taps beer lines etc and without damaging the freezer. Plan b is to drill trough the chest freezer lid.. any suggestions welcome!!
 

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I bought a miller tap head and a cheap faucet tap but as its a screw on head im unsure what to do with the miller tap as it has a different connection.. still very much a beginner lol
 

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Im afraid to drill into the walls of my chest freezer so im thinking a wooden frame on top and adjusting the lid might give me all the space i need for taps beer lines etc and without damaging the freezer. Plan b is to drill trough the chest freezer lid.. any suggestions welcome!!

The wooden frame of which you speak is called a collar, and is a very common (and good) way to add height and to avoid (potentially disastrous) drilling holes in the sides, or pretty much unwieldy/unworkable entry through the lid. If you haven't already, check out this sub-forum:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forums/kegerators-keezers.252/
 
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