Keezer build - opinions from those who've built a new lid

[jcaudill]

Hi - so I built out a 10 cu ft chest freezer with a collar probably a good 7-8 years ago now. It was great but I had two things I hated about it: 1) Always have to work around the shanks/keg tubing and 2) Having to lift those damn kegs that much higher and I'm not getting any younger lol. So: I've got a new Insignia 14.1. I'm trying to figure out what direction to take the build. I'm thinking short-term - maybe building a new lid with the shanks integrated would be a nice way to start and this also opens the door to a potential future coffin adaption. But for now, that would get me up and rolling. To those that have gone this route - can you share your builds and if there's anything you'd change? My concerns are probably the same as everyone's - the added weight and making sure it's insulated as well. Any advice is much appreciated! I've been combing through the kegerator thread but I'll be here all day trying to get answers so figured it was easier to ask Thanks!

 

[jekeane]

Ive tried both methods and while I hate dodging shanks and tailpieces while im pulling a keg out I think the collar on the fridge is still the better way to go from a ease of use perspective. Im in FL and have my keezer in the garage. I had a lot more cycling and temperature issues with the collar on the lid.

 

[day_trippr]

Considered a hinged collar?

Cheers!

 

[jcaudill]

Considered a hinged collar?

Cheers!

Hmm... How does that differ?

 

[day_trippr]

The whole collar lifts taking the faucets and shanks with it and out of the way.
So you only have to lift the keg over the top of the original cabinet instead of over the collar, too...

Cheers!

 

[jcaudill]

The whole collar lifts taking the faucets and shanks with it and out of the way.
So you only have to lift the keg over the top of the original cabinet instead of over the collar, too...

Cheers!

Ya that is what I'm after. I was thinking that and more or less rebuilding a lid was synonomous however I also realized you could integrate the stock lid into something like this. I think I was thinking about rebuilding the entire lid with collar integrated just because it gives me more options to expand into a tower in the future. But for now, I think what you're talking about it more or less what I'm after. Luckily I have no humidity to worry about so that helps.

 

[day_trippr]

There should be plenty of hinged collar build examples on HBT, lord knows I've seen plenty of them here.
May have to use a Google search (eg: site:homebrewtalk.com hinged keezer collar) to find them...

Cheers!

 

[jcaudill]

There should be plenty of hinged collar build examples on HBT, lord knows I've seen plenty of them here.
May have to use a Google search (eg: site:homebrewtalk.com hinged keezer collar) to find them...

Cheers!

Ya I know finding the builds aren't terribly difficult but I'm looking to get a bit more practical feedback on if people who've built them are happy or things they'd do differently, etc.

 

[Yesfan]

I'm on my second keezer as I wanted something bigger. I made the lid into a split lid. The right side is hinged from the back like the freezer cover and the larger left side with the tap tower and drip tray, I made where it pivots from the left of the freezer so I didn't have to worry about the tower making contact with the wall. It's also much wider, so loading/unloading kegs is a lot easier.

I've thought about going to an upright or straight up beer fridge (like the Komos units from More Beer) and retiring my keezer back to a freezer as it's bigger than the unit we have in the garage. I'm not getting any younger either, but two things I do like about a keezer vs an upright is 1) any leaking kegs, the beer is contained and won't leak out onto the floor and 2) since I have my tap tower off center, I have a small work space on top of the keezer which is perfect if I'm bottling from the kegs.

 

[jcaudill]

I'm on my second keezer as I wanted something bigger. I made the lid into a split lid. The right side is hinged from the back like the freezer cover and the larger left side with the tap tower and drip tray, I made where it pivots from the left of the freezer so I didn't have to worry about the tower making contact with the wall. It's also much wider, so loading/unloading kegs is a lot easier.

I've thought about going to an upright or straight up beer fridge (like the Komos units from More Beer) and retiring my keezer back to a freezer as it's bigger than the unit we have in the garage. I'm not getting any younger either, but two things I do like about a keezer vs an upright is 1) any leaking kegs, the beer is contained and won't leak out onto the floor and 2) since I have my tap tower off center, I have a small work space on top of the keezer which is perfect if I'm bottling from the kegs.

Funny I was just looking at a split design! It's definitely intriguing. I don't have that clearance on the left/right since I built a tight structure around it but I do have plenty of room above and behind. I was also thinking I could possibly build a removable tower. Couple QD/s inside to disconnect the lines and then maybe it's a few wing nuts or something that hold a tower to the lid. I haven't fully thought this through it's all early stages.

I like the chest freezer for all the reasons you mentioned. Not to mention at this point my space is built around it lol! But I'm not fully commited to one design vs another just yet. I know what I didn't like about my old one. I know I like the coffin style freezer but I don't think I'm committed to a full coffin build right now which is why I was thinking if I built out a new lid as the collar with a solid wood top then that gives me options down the road. I've been concerned about insulation but I think I'm probably overthinking it. I'm thinking if I build out a 3/4" frame, maybe line that with 1/2-3/4" foamular or spray foam on the sides, and then a wood top of some kind with a thicker 1-1/2" piece of foamular and then cover all that insulation up with either another thinner piece of wood or some other material that probably would do decently well as long as I get it to seal properly. Then as long as I built it tall enough I've got plenty of room to install shanks and route tubing around and down the road I could always plug up those shank holes and build a tower out. For now, I'm just eager to get a couple faucets in and get some beer into the freezer lol.

 

[jcaudill]

I'm starting to formulate a plan. I think something like this might work. I'm trying to keep this as light as possible so a 1x8 outer frame and then basically 1x1's are used inside to create a lip for 2" thick piece of Foamular on the top, and 3/4" thich foamular on the sides and also give a place for a thin piece of wood to cover all that up so basically the sides will just look like wood and the bottom side of the top I'll likely look to find a foil faced piece of insulation so there's no need to add wood there. It also gives a solid bottom for adding rubber sealing where it meets the freezer. Then I just need a top of some kind but that really is the easy part. This gives me about 5.25" inside to work with tubing and shanks which I think should be plenty. Any holes to poke in the idea?

 

[ba-brewer]

I've got a new Insignia 14.1. I'm trying to figure out what direction to take the build.

I have a couple question about Insignia 14.1 freezer, wondering if you can get 8 pin lock size kegs on the floor. Do you know the inside dimensions or how many kegs will fit on the floor and shelf?

Some of the igloo freezer they used to sell at BestBuy had a refrigerator mode. Can you adjust the temp up into the 40s?

 

[jcaudill]

I have a couple question about Insignia 14.1 freezer, wondering if you can get 8 pin lock size kegs on the floor. Do you know the inside dimensions or how many kegs will fit on the floor and shelf?

Some of the igloo freezer they used to sell at BestBuy had a refrigerator mode. Can you adjust the temp up into the 40s?

Should be no problem with 8 pin locks on the floor - dimensions are roughly 39 x 21.25" and height is no issue. The hump is about 9.5 x 15.5" so with a decent collar you could get 2 more up there. No - this cannot be a refrigerator without a controller. But that's a 30-40 buck investment so not that big of a deal. HTH!

 

[ba-brewer]

Should be no problem with 8 pin locks on the floor - dimensions are roughly 39 x 21.25" and height is no issue. The hump is about 9.5 x 15.5" so with a decent collar you could get 2 more up there. No - this cannot be a refrigerator without a controller. But that's a 30-40 buck investment so not that big of a deal. HTH!

Thanks for the information. at 39x21 that does sound like it should fit. I would be replacing an existing keezer so I have a controller, the refrigerator is just nice to have.

 

[ba-brewer]

Here is a post of slight different approach at a lid that only part of the collar lifts with the lid.
Easy load keezer with storage

 

[jcaudill]

Thanks for the information. at 39x21 that does sound like it should fit. I would be replacing an existing keezer so I have a controller, the refrigerator is just nice to have.

I haven't put mine in service yet short of a beer fridge but I did put my 8 ball locks in there and there's a ton of room.

Thanks for the share on the other build! That is an interesting concept.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

One thing I would change about mine is I wish I knew EVABarrier tubing and duotight fittings existed when I built mine. I'm slowly replacing my beer lines with it but would've been easier to integrate it into the initial build. I also could've used it on gas lines which I probably won't redo until I build a new one. This doesn't help you with your collar issue but you'd have less tubing to work around.

 

[ba-brewer]

Should be no problem with 8 pin locks on the floor - dimensions are roughly 39 x 21.25" and height is no issue. The hump is about 9.5 x 15.5" so with a decent collar you could get 2 more up there. No - this cannot be a refrigerator without a controller. But that's a 30-40 buck investment so not that big of a deal. HTH!

One more question, is the hump a shelf that goes front to back or does it only go part way?

In my current 10cuft freezer the hump goes front to back and I put 3gal kegs on the hump so I can go with a lower profile collar.

 

[jcaudill]

One more question, is the hump a shelf that goes front to back or does it only go part way?

In my current 10cuft freezer the hump goes front to back and I put 3gal kegs on the hump so I can go with a lower profile collar.

The hump takes away from the right side. So the measurement I gave you takes away 9.5" from the right side, and the 15.5" is actually usuable height in that 9.5". So for a full size pin lock you would need a pretty substantial collar to get two full size pin lock kegs on it. I didn't give you the internal height for the 39x21 area but that is about 26-27" give or take. It's enough to clear a ball lock keg without a collar.

 

[ba-brewer]

Thanks again. I was not sure about the 15.5in dimension.
Now just need to watch for them to come back in stock in my area.

 

[jcaudill]

Thanks again. I was not sure about the 15.5in dimension.
Now just need to watch for them to come back in stock in my area.

Of course! Let me know if you need anything else.

 

[kevink]

 

[Gozie Boy]

I like the concept, but aside from the weight on the lower hinges and the ability to "stop it at the top" (i.e. how do you hold it there when open, if not resting it against a wall?), this of course requires quite a bit more space behind the Keezer.

 

[jcaudill]

I like the concept, but aside from the weight on the lower hinges and the ability to "stop it at the top" (i.e. how do you hold it there when open, if not resting it against a wall?), this of course requires quite a bit more space behind the Keezer.

Thanks! Weight I'm not terribly concerned with because as long as it's constructed with lightweight materials (poplar for example is pretty light but decently durable wood) I don't think it's going to be heavy enough to be an issue. My understanding is chest freezer hinges are fairly beefy. If I need to, I have plenty of wood around that I could use to prop the lid. That said: it's a good point about the area behind the freezer. That I'm going to need to validate. Good call!

 

[jcaudill]

I like the concept, but aside from the weight on the lower hinges and the ability to "stop it at the top" (i.e. how do you hold it there when open, if not resting it against a wall?), this of course requires quite a bit more space behind the Keezer.

So you have me thinking the double hinge design might be the way to go!

 

[Bobby_M]

My first keezer used a very short collar made from 1x3 poplar which I glued to the lid. I moved the original's gasket to the bottom of the collar since that's where the seal had to be made. No mods were needed to the hinges for proper operation except only one of my hinges had a keep-open spring and it was precarious. I ended up finding a similar freezer at the town recycling center and took the spring loaded one so I could have both.

Later I built my current keezer and I was being lazy and went with a common collar. It sucks in comparison.

 

[jcaudill]

My first keezer used a very short collar made from 1x3 poplar which I glued to the lid. I moved the original's gasket to the bottom of the collar since that's where the seal had to be made. No mods were needed to the hinges for proper operation except only one of my hinges had a keep-open spring and it was precarious. I ended up finding a similar freezer at the town recycling center and took the spring loaded one so I could have both.

Later I built my current keezer and I was being lazy and went with a common collar. It sucks in comparison.

So you like the lid/collar combination better then? In hindsight again I was thinking why bother with dual hinge how often would I really just want to get in just the top. I'm back to thinking the original idea was best just rebuild the lid.