Just made keg based HLT with electric option

[Dland]

Here is a HLT I just finished. I already have one, but I was given another keg, so I thought I'd add electric option, and test attaching the tri-clamp ferule, without risking the tank I need to brew tomorrow.

Started with cutting a hole in the bottom, drilled a hole and tapped into Sanke neck, 1/2 inch NPT, used a 8 inch long SS nipple for output valve and sight glass. The Sanke top is sealed with the help of a 1.5 inch tri-clamp end cap. 1/2 inch NPT through hole dibbled and brazed in for thermowell. I guess I may need to ad another one for a thermal control sensor. I have to look into that next. Any recommendations for temp control for element would be appreciated.

I used a 4,500W 240V tri-clamp element, so I could run off existing 20 amp circuit in shop. I'm going to add a 30 amp circuit later so I can run a 5,500 amp element too. But this one heated 10 gallons from 70 to 170*F in about 22 minutes, which compares favorably to propane fired pot burner.

I attached these with bronze phosphor brazing rod and oxy-acetylene torch. Have to be careful with mixed gas rig, it is easy to burn a hole in the keg. Also used acetylene Turbo Torch, which is safer but takes a little longer, and was hard to get a tin on the thicker though hull and ferule. Silver solder works just as well, that is how I did the kettle before this. Both seem hard to get to tin well on the SS keg, even with cleaning and good flux. I had to braze on this one twice to stop a bad joint from weeping, and chase out a crack I made by overheating.

I am going to order a roll of SS wire for my MIG welder and do the next kettle that way. Should have done that this time, but was in the mood to do the project today.

 

[Dland]

Update on above project: I've been having flavor issues with my brews, to put it mildly, and one suspect is the above HLT. Probably not the problem, but if you do any process that heats the stainless steel to discoloration, you probably should look into "pickling" the affected areas.

This involves using nitric or hydrofloric acid solutions or paste sold for this purpose. Might be good to have some on hand if you doing stainless kettle modifications.

Needless to say, using a process that heats the work less overall is your best bet. So I would recommend silver solder or welding. Gas brazing puts too much heat on work, so is last choice.

One note on welding SS fittings to kegs, if you do not have a TIG or tri mix gas for MIG, an acceptable weld can be made with a MIG and 75/25 gas and a flux core wire.

 

[passedpawn]

I like the idea of the upside down keggle. Makes a lot of sense. I have an extra keg - I might give this a shot. I'll definitely be silver soldering

 

[golfindia]

Silver solder works great on kegs.

Edit. Nor Cal makes a bottom drain kit for sanke kegs. A 2" triclamp fits on the opening with a modified gasket.

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Sanke-Keg-Bottom-Drain-Kit.html