just freaking pissed.stupid pump

[itsratso]

I have used my pump about 7 times now. 3 times it airlocked. today is the first time I have not been able to fix it. I have burns on both arms (again from this stupid thing) and lost half my beer on my kitchen floor. eventually I just put a carboy of hot wort into my freezer to chill overnite, any guesses to how that will turn out? the pump is a chugger with the steel head. I am seriously regretting buying this stupid thing. if these things are so prone to airlocking and you are dealing with BOILING LIQUID when trying to get them to run than they are not a convenience they are just dangerous. btw I have an elaborate ritual I go through to keep the pump from getting air into it and have read every "tip" I can find. I practically make love to this ****** thing before using it. it is just ridiculous. if anyone is thinking about getting one take it from me - DO NOT get rid of your old cooling setup for a few months afterward. you may regret it.

 

[acidrain]

Hmmm... I haven't had a problem since adding a air purge valve. You do have an air purge valve, right?
What is the orientation pf the pump and head?
What size hose and valves?
How far below the bottom of the pot is it?

You were just kidding about pumping wort while it is actually boiling right?

 

[DarkUncle]

Hmmm...I actually read somewhere that recirculating boiling wort was a good way to sanitize the pump and lines before pumping into the fermenter after cooldown. I've done that for my last 3 batches. Granted it pumped slower but it did pump.

If you don't do this how do you effectively sanitize your pump and lines before pumping the wort into the fermenter?

Regards,
Chris

 

[itsratso]

actually there was a thread on here from the manufacturer a while ago talking about temps for pumping saying the pumps routinely pump temps way above boiling ( something like 500F) but it would cost a lot of money to get them certified for higher temp ranges. yes I pump boiling temps to sterilize and there is many others here who do.

edit: no I dont have a purge valve, that is something I should look in to. do you use it on the in or out side? anyone have a linky for one?

 

[Crafty_Brewer]

I bet your beer will turn out fine chillin in the freezer...just keep an eye on the stuff in your freezer...large quantities of hot stuff in an enclosed space can heat up things around it.

Anyway.... you could just use an immersion chiller...and drop the lines into a bucket of ice water with your pump. It would run colder than tap water, use less water, and if heat was what ailed your pump, that would solve that issue as well.

I like immersion chillers...cools my wort to 62F in under 20 minutes. Just get one sized appropriately for your batch size. And they are super easy to sanitize.

 

[DarkUncle]

I've seen most pumps rated for 250 degrees not sure about 500. But seeing as water boils at 212 these pumps can certainly handle pumping boiling wort as I've successfully done the last 3 times.

I use my pump to first pump the water from the HLT to the mash tun. Gravity drain the mash to the boil kettle. Then during the last 15 minutes of the boil I switch the pump on and recirculate the wort to sanitize it and the lines. At flameout I continue the recirculation with the pump to accelerate cooling. Once I hit 80 degrees I lift the out line coming off the pump and drop it into the fermenter being sure to let it splash in to aerate.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Home Brew mobile app

 

[stpug]

Air purge valve? More info on this would be awesome.

Out of curiosity, is it possible to use a pump with 1/2" silicone tubing and 1/2" barbs without quick disconnects of any kind, or will the pressure force the hose off of the barbs?

 

[Crafty_Brewer]

I've seen most pumps rated for 250 degrees not sure about 500. But seeing as water boils at 212 these pumps can certainly handle pumping boiling wort as I've successfully done the last 3 times.

I use my pump to first pump the water from the HLT to the mash tun. Gravity drain the mash to the boil kettle. Then during the last 15 minutes of the boil I switch the pump on and recirculate the wort to sanitize it and the lines. At flameout I continue the recirculation with the pump to accelerate cooling. Once I hit 80 degrees I lift the out line coming off the pump and drop it into the fermenter being sure to let it splash in to aerate.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Home Brew mobile app

Not to nit-pick, but wort actually boils at 214-220 depending on how much sugar is in it. Sugar raises the boiling point of water.

 

[insanim8er]

Air purge valve? More info on this would be awesome.

It's nothing more than putting a T on the output of the pump. The inline of the T is connected to the pump out then the other side to the kettle you're pumping to. The other outlet of T is connected to a ball valve.

You prime your pump, open the ball valve to bleed air then close it. You can also use it to pull samples if need be.

Like this:

 

[itsratso]

I know what it is but am having probs finding one. does anyone have a link?

 

[insanim8er]

Not to nit-pick, but wort actually boils at 214-220 depending on how much sugar is in it. Sugar raises the boiling point of water.

Then why does my thermapen read 212 at boiling?

 

[insanim8er]

I know what it is but am having probs finding one. does anyone have a link?

Build it... Amazon and ebay are excellent sources for cheap SS fittings. You can often get it shipped free too.

 

[stpug]

It's nothing more than putting a T on the output of the pump. The inline of the T is connected to the pump out then the other side to the kettle you're pumping to. The other outlet of T is connected to a ball valve.

You prime your pump, open the ball valve to bleed air then close it. You can also use it to pull samples if need be.

Like this:

Excellent! Thanks for the description and the photo makes it very easy to see.

 

[insanim8er]

You just need one of these

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XEKPUY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And two of these

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BS2HBWE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

And then the ball valves

I found the closed nipples for .88 cents somewhere, and I'm sure you can find a source for the tee fitting that ships free if you look.

 

[doc5md]

I have a chugger too. I'm able to pump boiling wort... It's how I sanitize as someone else said above. I can't run the pump wide open (I think it sucks in too many air bubbles from the boil). but by closing the output side ball valve about 1/2 way, it runs great.

 

[insanim8er]

Here's the closed nipple for $0.89 cents don't let the photo fool you. It's closed, so there is no gap between threads.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQJMUQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[savannahbrew]

I am not knocking the air purge valve (because it very well could fix your problem) but I do not need one and I know tons of people do not use them. I think there has to be a problem with either a) the way you prime your pump b) the way you maintain your prime or c) the configuration of your setup. The easiest one to rule out is C. If you have had the same setup the same each brewday and have not had problems everytime cross "C" off your list. When I first started using a pump I remember that when I found out how to prime and maintain a prime it changed my life. I am pretty sure you know how to prime your pump because you have used it successfully a few times. Maintaining a prime gave me a some trouble early in my brewing. I did not know you could prime the pump, turn the pump on and run it and close vale on the outlet side. Once I learned this is made it so much easier. The valve on the outlet side is a MUST! You might not need a air purge valve but as far as I am concerned yo gotta have a ball valve. One I figured out I was loosing my prime by liquid and air going back into the pump my problems were history! Good luck, tell us about your configuration a bit more and someone will fix it and you can enjoy using a chuggerpump they are amazing!!!

 

[insanim8er]

I am not knocking the air purge valve (because it very well could fix your problem) but I do not need one and I know tons of people do not use them.

I have two march pumps. I have both used and not used the purge. Having it makes life easier. I also have the morebeer quick disconnects. If I don't have the purge installed, I find myself disconnecting the outlet line purging then reattaching.

For a couple bucks and two minutes to assemble, it's worth it.

But a question to ask is how are your pump mounted? The vapor can cause issue the head is not properly orientated.

 

[passedpawn]

I make love to this ****** thing before using it

Pretty sure we've found our problem

 

[acidrain]

Boiling wort = bubbles... sucking bubbles into the intake = cavitation.
You don't need to circulate boiling wort to sanitize the pump. It will be sanitized instantly by recirculating wort that is not actually a rolling boil. Turn off heat, wait a few seconds, and then start the re-circulation.

 

[Bobby_M]

Right. You can't pump boiling wort. What you want to do is pump near boiling wort and do it slowly with the pump valve cracked to about 1/3rd open or the suction on the inlet side will boil the 211F wort. The further away from 212F it gets, the faster you can pump.

 

[DarkUncle]

Right. You can't pump boiling wort. What you want to do is pump near boiling wort and do it slowly with the pump valve cracked to about 1/3rd open or the suction on the inlet side will boil the 211F wort. The further away from 212F it gets, the faster you can pump.

You can't pump boiling wort or you shouldn't? Because I can assure you my pump is definitely pumping it.

With that said, are you saying that I shouldn't turn that pump on until after flameout? Will the wort be hot enough to sanitize the pump and lines without being at boiling temps? In all honesty I'd rather not pump while it's boiling because it does struggle a bit while doing so.

Thanks

Sent from my SM-N900V using Home Brew mobile app

 

[augiedoggy]

I have used my pump about 7 times now. 3 times it airlocked. today is the first time I have not been able to fix it. I have burns on both arms (again from this stupid thing) and lost half my beer on my kitchen floor. eventually I just put a carboy of hot wort into my freezer to chill overnite, any guesses to how that will turn out? the pump is a chugger with the steel head. I am seriously regretting buying this stupid thing. if these things are so prone to airlocking and you are dealing with BOILING LIQUID when trying to get them to run than they are not a convenience they are just dangerous. btw I have an elaborate ritual I go through to keep the pump from getting air into it and have read every "tip" I can find. I practically make love to this ****** thing before using it. it is just ridiculous. if anyone is thinking about getting one take it from me - DO NOT get rid of your old cooling setup for a few months afterward. you may regret it.

I would say that you more likely are doing something wrong to have such problems because this is the first I've heard of someone having issues if they prime the pump correctly (they are not self priming)

 

[augiedoggy]

You can't pump boiling wort or you shouldn't? Because I can assure you my pump is definitely pumping it.

With that said, are you saying that I shouldn't turn that pump on until after flameout? Will the wort be hot enough to sanitize the pump and lines without being at boiling temps? In all honesty I'd rather not pump while it's boiling because it does struggle a bit while doing so.

Thanks

Sent from my SM-N900V using Home Brew mobile app

I dont know guys, both my little $20-30 tan and topsflo plastic pumps pump hot wort while boiling just fine... I use one the recirculate wort and keep it flowing through my hop cup and to sterilize my plate chiller while the heat is still on...
if a big expensive stainless pump like the chugger cant handle the temps then thats pretty sad.

 

[augiedoggy]

Then why does my thermapen read 212 at boiling?

Actually it boils at different temps depending on what altitude above (or below) sea level your at...

 

[Hello]

OP, I do not have advice to offer as I just bought a pump the other day. This makes me nervous and I wonder if I should return it. I've subscribed to continue reading future suggestions; I've read everything thus far. I hope this gets better for you and it turns out to be just a user error deal. No offense.

 

[augiedoggy]

OP, I do not have advice to offer as I just bought a pump the other day. This makes me nervous and I wonder if I should return it. I've subscribed to continue reading future suggestions; I've read everything thus far. I hope this gets better for you and it turns out to be just a user error deal. No offense.

there are likely at least a hundred members here using these types of pumps....I wouldnt let one bad review make your decision for you... I dont see how it wasnt pumping if it was mounted below the boil kettle and properly primed...

 

[itsratso]

it's not that hard to prime a pump. i prefill my lines with water before even hooking them to my kettle to try to keep any air out of them before hooking them up to the pump. i raise my pump to the same level as the line inlet when connecting them so that dropping the line down doesn't let in any air. the pump is 3 feet lower than my kettle. do you have to go through all these precautions? it seems as if i am doing MORE than enough to properly prime the pump. i use the same hi temp 1/2 lines that everyone else uses. i am fully aware that not everyone has these problems but there are a whole lot of threads that indicate that many do. i am also not saying to not buy one, but i certainly stick with what i was saying earlier - don't get rid of your immersion chiller before you are sure the pump is working well for you. i have ordered the parts for a bleeder valve - i hope that will help some.

 

[itsratso]

as far as pumping boiling wort goes, finally found the post - "The 809 is rated for liquid temps of 250*F well above the boiling point of 212*F". from the manufacturer, post #3.


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/questions-about-march-pumps-answered-factory-210199/

 

[tyler2you]

A couple of things to try that gave me fits in the beginning when I first incorporated my Chugger.

- Make sure the magnetic wheel that drives the pump impeller is able to move freely (but not too far back). When I installed my pump in the box, I must have slid the magnetic wheel too far forward on the shaft and it was binding in the pump housing. It would spin without any load, but once it had to pump liquid, it would stop. Moved it back a couple of mm and it started working.

- Try restricting the ball valve on the outflow end of your pump a bit. My kettle arrangement must not be free flowing enough to maintain a prime. I have a 1/2" od dip tube on the inside going into a 3 piece ball valve with a 90 degree elbow and quick disconnect on the outside. I imagine things would improve if I removed the dip tube and elbow, but I can compensate by restricting the outflow after the pump.

Here's another example of the bleed valve with the pump head in a horizontal position. Good luck!