Jockey Box Upgrade Project

[pvpeacock]

I have a DIY standard jockey box with a 50' coil connected to shanks on the front and back of the cooler with compression fittings (grommets, ferules and nuts). The problem I encountered was that the coil itself was 3/8" OD and I could not find any beer faucet shank with a 3/8" ID bore. I did find a bulkhead shank for the rear of the cooler with a 3/8" ID bore, but not a beer faucet shank. As a result, the coil did not fit inside the faucet shank but only up against it inside the compression fitting. This resulted in leaks -- nothing major, but still annoying. In addition, at a recent event, I encountered some other issues with leaks where the beer nut connected to the bulkhead shank (yes, I had a washer, but it was leaking anyway because I could not tighten it enough -- which is another story). I finally threw up my hands and decided that I was going to upgrade my jockey box with Duotight fittings and Evabarrier tubing and ditch the compression fitting connections between the shanks and coil. That way, I could stop the leaks and remove the coil whenever I wanted. While I was at it, I also decided to get a new, longer coil.

I ended up with an 85' square coil (5/16" OD) from Beverage Time. Jockey Box Stainless Steel Coil - 85' Square I liked the fact that it has a frame and, more importantly, came with quick disconnect compression fittings on the coil very similar to Duotight fittings. I ended up buying replacement elbow compression fittings for the coil when I saw how the coil sat in the jockey box in relation to the shanks. I then attached Evabarrier tubing to 1/4" barbs on the compression fitting at the coil and attached the tubing to Duotight shank fittings.

Now, I can easily remove the coil and replace it with a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon keg with Duotight ball locks if I am going to a smaller event. So my cooler is now a portable kegerator for small kegs and a jockey box for 5 gallon kegs.

I also discovered that they have the compression fitting quick disconnects for my original 3/8" OD coil. I plan to use those to convert another rolling cooler I have into a jockey box/portable kegerator while I am at it.

I also replaced my cheap mini-regulator with a new Kegland regulator. KegLand Core 360 Mini CO2 Regulator | MoreBeer is a well built, solid mini-regulator. This is a well built, solid regulator. There are so many features on it that are unique including the Duotight compatible barb and actuator that lets you screw in your CO2 cylinder or canister before the regulator pin punctures or depresses it. The only downside is that they don't have an adapter for paint ball CO2 tank threads (yet). As a result, I had to buy an adapter for my paint ball CO2 tanks that converted the threads into a Soda Stream thread which is compatible with the regulator. On the plus side, I can now use Soda Steam CO2 tanks in addition to paint ball tanks and my LHBS fills both.

P.S. In looking at the photo, I'm not sure why I replaced the straight compression disconnects with elbows?

 

[Bobby_M]

I would say that the elbows create an unnecessary turbulence but if you're not having foam issues, it doesn't matter. The one thing that blows my mind about the entire universe of jockey boxes is the incessant use of beer-in shanks. Every time I build a jockey box, the beer in is done with a simple grommeted hole in the cooler. I use EVA barrier tubing and whenever the unit is not connected to kegs, the tubing gets pushed into the cooler for storage. Two less connections to leak and absolutely no turbulence.

 

[pvpeacock]

I agree about the beer-in shank. It’s a waste of money and hardware.

 

[AlexKay]

It seems like a Duotight/John Guest bulkhead union wouldn’t add much turbulence, and might give a cleaner look and more flexibility. You might even make the stainless/EVABarrier transition with that fitting. The beer-shank-in fitting is puzzling to me too.

I had a brief look a while back at building a box, but with how much SS coil costs these days, it seemed like it would be more economical to buy one pre-assembled. If anyone has anyreasonably priced sources for tubing, that’d be great info.

 

[Dr_Jeff]

The OP did a great build.

My jockey box uses a thick plate that the beer runs through.
It has a lot of mass.
I'll take a plastic wash pan and fill it with water and put it in the freezer creating a BIG chunk of ice and put that on top of the plate and sometime a bag of ice as well if I think it might be needed, although the big chunk has always lasted.

 

[Deadalus]

It's been a few years since I built my jockey box so I don't recall the exact IDs but I looked and I have a reducer coupling off the coils with some tubing afterwards to prevent foaming. I did the build in two parts, I had two square coils and then added two round ones inside later (which you could probably do if you want another tap). That results in more o-rings plus I wasn't familiar with PTC fittings at the time so I have beer nuts installed on two shanks (the other two have nipples). I'm pretty sure I have seen PTC reducer couplings but don't know whether the measurements would be applicable for homebrewers.

I used to fit growlers inside my square coils which you could do if you trimmed or bent the ends.

 

[Kevin Wurtz]

I have a DIY standard jockey box with a 50' coil connected to shanks on the front and back of the cooler with compression fittings (grommets, ferules and nuts). The problem I encountered was that the coil itself was 3/8" OD and I could not find any beer faucet shank with a 3/8" ID bore. I did find a bulkhead shank for the rear of the cooler with a 3/8" ID bore, but not a beer faucet shank. As a result, the coil did not fit inside the faucet shank but only up against it inside the compression fitting. This resulted in leaks -- nothing major, but still annoying. In addition, at a recent event, I encountered some other issues with leaks where the beer nut connected to the bulkhead shank (yes, I had a washer, but it was leaking anyway because I could not tighten it enough -- which is another story). I finally threw up my hands and decided that I was going to upgrade my jockey box with Duotight fittings and Evabarrier tubing and ditch the compression fitting connections between the shanks and coil. That way, I could stop the leaks and remove the coil whenever I wanted. While I was at it, I also decided to get a new, longer coil.

I ended up with an 85' square coil (5/16" OD) from Beverage Time. Jockey Box Stainless Steel Coil - 85' Square I liked the fact that it has a frame and, more importantly, came with quick disconnect compression fittings on the coil very similar to Duotight fittings. I ended up buying replacement elbow compression fittings for the coil when I saw how the coil sat in the jockey box in relation to the shanks. I then attached Evabarrier tubing to 1/4" barbs on the compression fitting at the coil and attached the tubing to Duotight shank fittings.
View attachment 762379
Now, I can easily remove the coil and replace it with a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon keg with Duotight ball locks if I am going to a smaller event. So my cooler is now a portable kegerator for small kegs and a jockey box for 5 gallon kegs.

I also discovered that they have the compression fitting quick disconnects for my original 3/8" OD coil. I plan to use those to convert another rolling cooler I have into a jockey box/portable kegerator while I am at it.

I also replaced my cheap mini-regulator with a new Kegland regulator. KegLand Core 360 Mini CO2 Regulator | MoreBeer is a well built, solid mini-regulator. This is a well built, solid regulator. There are so many features on it that are unique including the Duotight compatible barb and actuator that lets you screw in your CO2 cylinder or canister before the regulator pin punctures or depresses it. The only downside is that they don't have an adapter for paint ball CO2 tank threads (yet). As a result, I had to buy an adapter for my paint ball CO2 tanks that converted the threads into a Soda Stream thread which is compatible with the regulator. On the plus side, I can now use Soda Steam CO2 tanks in addition to paint ball tanks and my LHBS fills both.

P.S. In looking at the photo, I'm not sure why I replaced the straight compression disconnects with elbows?

Hi Mind telling me where u bought the adapter from paint ball tank to sodastream from thanks.

 

[pvpeacock]

https://www.amazon.com/PEH-Paintbal...2+tank+paintball+canister,sporting,107&sr=1-2

 

[Kevin Wurtz]

https://www.amazon.com/PEH-Paintbal...2+tank+paintball+canister,sporting,107&sr=1-2

Thanks.

 

[jmstone617]

I would say that the elbows create an unnecessary turbulence but if you're not having foam issues, it doesn't matter. The one thing that blows my mind about the entire universe of jockey boxes is the incessant use of beer-in shanks. Every time I build a jockey box, the beer in is done with a simple grommeted hole in the cooler. I use EVA barrier tubing and whenever the unit is not connected to kegs, the tubing gets pushed into the cooler for storage. Two less connections to leak and absolutely no turbulence.

Old thread but if you’re not using a shank, how are you holding the faucet in place on the cooler?

 

[Agent]

That was only in regards to the "beer-in" side of the jockey box - coming from the keg.

Faucets still require shanks for sure.

 

[jmstone617]

yep that explains it. On MoreBeer’s website for the shank listings it says

We do not use pass through shanks in our boxes because we drill a hole that is same size as the line so we can pull it back in when we are traveling.

So that’s what I was thinking of.