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Jaybird's Stainless False Bottoms

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I finally got a chance to use your false bottom Jaybird and it worked great. It was also my first time mashing in a keg so it was also a learning experience but the false bottom did its job flawlessly.

Thanks!

Now off to figure out how to insulate the keg
 
I finally got a chance to use your false bottom Jaybird and it worked great. It was also my first time mashing in a keg so it was also a learning experience but the false bottom did its job flawlessly.

Thanks!

Now off to figure out how to insulate the keg

Oh I am sooo glad you enjoy it. You'll get to use it for looooong time to come too.


Insulation.... Hmmmm can't help ya there. My MLT still looks ghetto w/ some foam wrapped around it.:D
Jay
 
Jay,
Not sure if you have seen this thread, but was curious how much a 19 1/4" non-hinged FB without hole for diptube would cost?
 
Jay,
Not sure if you have seen this thread, but was curious how much a 19 1/4" non-hinged FB without hole for diptube would cost?

Wondering the same thing. Are you considering an element underneath the false bottom to direct heat the mash?

I really dont see why we would have to do a 19" false bottom? Looks like a 15" unhinged w/ a few tabs welded on the bottom to keep it in place will sit right on that ledge. I will respond tomorrow or later on tonigh w/ some prices for a 19 1/4". I will have to work it out when I get to the store tonight.
That thing is pretty cool though.
Jay
 
My thinking was to be able to drain the entire grainbed evenly. Would probably add some legs to raise it off that outer lip just enough so fluid could flow under it.
 
Ok, now I'm puzzled JayBird...you say yu can direct heat with you 15in FB; but, I just was reading Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide where he says you can't. (Page 77 if you're curious). Why would I be able to, or not, direct heat my mash tun?
 
Ok, now I'm puzzled JayBird...you say yu can direct heat with you 15in FB; but, I just was reading Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide where he says you can't. (Page 77 if you're curious). Why would I be able to, or not, direct heat my mash tun?

I have direct heated mine with NG burners since the day I added JB's FB's. Just need to recirculate when you are doing it or the wort can boil beneath the FB.
 
Ok, so keep a lower flame, stir, and you're good. Thanks.

Myself, I don't stir. Once I cover with the lid it stays on the entire 60 minute mash. I use a March pump to draw wort from the ball valve at the bottom and pump it up to an inlet at the top. I start the recirculation when I start my burner which is when the temp drops 2 degrees below my set mash temp. Then I shut the burner off when it gets back to my target mash temp.

For example: If my mash temp is 155 when I start my mash I will start the burner AND the recirculation (pump) when it drops to 153. Then I will shut the burner off at 155 again, BUT leave the pump (recirculation) going. I repeat this (usually 3-4 times during the course of a 60 minute mash depending on the outside air temperature.
 
ya I wouldn't stir really, I mean it's not going to hurt anything but you do need to keep the wort in motion while heating like Yambor44 has mentioned. YOu want to keep the wort in motion so it dosent boil under the FB and under the grain bed.

As for stainless diptubes. My copper and brass ones are $22.00 shipped when you buy a FB and they get shipped at the same time. I am going to sell the stainless ones for $35 same deal.
Cheers
Jay
 
Projectman your PM box is full
I have your numbers. I'll call you later on in the day. But empty it out and I will shoot you my PayPal account info.
Cheers
Jay
 
I have it built and it is out for testing right now. I am not really sure when exactly I will have it back and brewery tested. But I will tell you this. If it works, and you like to whirlpool but your not patient enough to wait the 30 min for the cone to settle. This is going to help a bunch.
Cheers
Jay
 
I need to get better pictures but here it is.

P1050699.JPG


P1050700.JPG


works like a charm, thanks Jaybird.
 
I need to get better pictures but here it is.

P1050699.JPG


P1050700.JPG


works like a charm, thanks Jaybird.

Sweet man. I am glad you had a chance to try it out. Where are you getting that blue arm in your boil kettle. I have seen several post on the stuff and never really given it any thought. But I am puting together a new 26 gallon system and I think that stuff will work killer for it.
Cheers
Jay
 
Sweet man. I am glad you had a chance to try it out. Where are you getting that blue arm in your boil kettle. I have seen several post on the stuff and never really given it any thought. But I am puting together a new 26 gallon system and I think that stuff will work killer for it.
Cheers
Jay

It's called lock line and can be found here:

http://www.modularhose.com/

or at mcmaster too if you already have an order going but is cheaper at the website above.
 
As you all know I am a brand new store and I need to move some product ASAP. I am going to pay shipping on all the next 15" hinged false bottom orders I get untill Sunday. I have a boatload (not really) of these built and ready to ship. As most of you know I can drill these for your pickup tube (a free service) and I can also supply a pickup tube if you like for $22.00 extra.
These will now be $85.00 shipped untill Sunday Feb 28th
Cheers
Jay
 
As you all know I am a brand new store and I need to move some product ASAP. I am going to pay shipping on all the next 15" hinged false bottom orders I get untill Sunday. I have a boatload (not really) of these built and ready to ship. As most of you know I can drill these for your pickup tube (a free service) and I can also supply a pickup tube if you like for $22.00 extra.
These will now be $85.00 shipped untill Sunday Feb 28th
Cheers
Jay

Bump for good measure. :D
 
I have it built and it is out for testing right now. I am not really sure when exactly I will have it back and brewery tested. But I will tell you this. If it works, and you like to whirlpool but your not patient enough to wait the 30 min for the cone to settle. This is going to help a bunch.
Cheers
Jay

+1 on a request for this. I've got a 17-1/2" BK just waiting for a good, innovative false bottom. I've been reading a lot of threads here and elsewhere about good filtering methods for BKs, and there doesn't seem to be a silver bullet yet to deal with all the situations we face. As you're testing, be sure to keep in mind those of us who recirc through a CFC and return the cooled wort to the BK via whirlpool, and possibly with pellet-only boils (that seems to be the worst case). If you come up with something that works for that, sign me up. :)

:mug:
MrH
 
+1 on a request for this. I've got a 17-1/2" BK just waiting for a good, innovative false bottom. I've been reading a lot of threads here and elsewhere about good filtering methods for BKs, and there doesn't seem to be a silver bullet yet to deal with all the situations we face. As you're testing, be sure to keep in mind those of us who recirc through a CFC and return the cooled wort to the BK via whirlpool, and possibly with pellet-only boils (that seems to be the worst case). If you come up with something that works for that, sign me up. :)

:mug:
MrH

Loads of testing has gone into this. I have come up with a rather simple method to contain pellet hops in the boil kettle even if you don’t whirlpool. Using a whirlpool will greatly improve what is left in the kettle and out of the fermented. I have been testing several ways to stop the hops. If all the picts work I think you’ll agree this is a simple yet effective way to trap the hops in the kettle. I have tried several different kinds and weight of screen and this seems to be the best of both worlds. What I have done is drilled and tapped some 4-40 stainless screws into the FB. There are 14 screws total in this FB. If you want a hole for a diptube there would be even more.
I have several pictures to show testing as well
 
first is the false bottom folded with stainless heavy duty mesh. second is after the drain of 4 oz of pellet hops in 5 gallons of wort drained at full speed through a 1/2" full port stainless ball valve.
 
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