iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer

[tieflyer]

Hmm, you mentioned your seeing "could not connect" -- if you go to the config, do you see that the temp was still set to F, or did it reset back to C?

C. It loses everything I put in, network password and f. Not sure if ubidots was in there to start with but no token there either.

 

[tieflyer]

How do I factory reset it?

 

[clientsoup]

When you connect to the iSpindel, go to maintenance, and there's a factory reset button

 

[tieflyer]

ok, i did factory reset and then put in config of network, password and f and hit enter. it came back with could not reconnect and kicked me back to my network. tried http://192.168.4.1/ and cannot connect

 

[tieflyer]

got connection failed when I hit save

 

[tieflyer]

This is mentioned in the iSpindel flashing video. He references this post earlier in this thread about the issue: iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer

Looks like others have seen the same issue but it's fixable

is this way you meant?

 

[tieflyer]

this is what i get after save

 

[Dexlor]

this is what i get after save

To my understanding (from my experience) when you save, the device restarts therefore, kicking the device you are browsing from off its network. What were you expecting to happen after this point? It should start reporting to Ubidots if that is what you set up.

Perhaps you can enter the configuration page and take a screen shot of your configuration. Be sure to block out any unique values.

 

[HarryB]

That is the way that my iSpindel behaves. The thing is, you must be certain you get all of the settings in the configuration correct, before clicking save.

 

[tieflyer]

Ok so from the sounds of this, it will never keep my settings and I got a lemon?

 

[DavidGIruela]

hello friends, is there any way to enter configuration mode only with the flashed d1 ?, thanks

 

[clientsoup]

hello friends, is there any way to enter configuration mode only with the flashed d1 ?, thanks

At least in my experience, if the wemos cannot find the temp sensor, it will not be able to enter config mode.

 

[ChrisThomas]

Agreed with @clientsoup , the D1 mini will not get pass the hardware detection to boot successfully. You can flash the D1 mini before assembly but it will not boot until completely assembled.

 

[DavidGIruela]

Agreed with @clientsoup , the D1 mini will not get pass the hardware detection to boot successfully. You can flash the D1 mini before assembly but it will not boot until completely assembled.

Ok thanks to all yes i flash the unit, but i cant access to the config, i will wait for the rest of the material.

 

[Aktormedic]

I purchased a pre-built ispindel, successfully (so I thought) calibrated and connected to ubidots.

So, the problem: even when I set the reporting period to 30 seconds, I cannot get the device to send more than the first data point from when it was turned on. I have changed the reporting period from 30 to 1500 in case that might be the issue, no change in results. I have reset the API key, re-input my network, etc. Nothing.

Has anyone else had this experience or might be able to offer some advice?

Cheers!

 

[BrewingAroundtheRrealm]

I purchased a pre-built ispindel, successfully (so I thought) calibrated and connected to ubidots.

So, the problem: even when I set the reporting period to 30 seconds, I cannot get the device to send more than the first data point from when it was turned on. I have changed the reporting period from 30 to 1500 in case that might be the issue, no change in results. I have reset the API key, re-input my network, etc. Nothing.

Has anyone else had this experience or might be able to offer some advice?

Cheers!

I've run in to this issue. The couple of time this has happened I have had to follow the steps in this post: iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer Then reflash the latest version of the firmware. I cannot give you a 100% guarantee it will fix your issue. But it has worked for me.

 

[ChrisThomas]

I purchased a pre-built ispindel, successfully (so I thought) calibrated and connected to ubidots.

So, the problem: even when I set the reporting period to 30 seconds, I cannot get the device to send more than the first data point from when it was turned on. I have changed the reporting period from 30 to 1500 in case that might be the issue, no change in results. I have reset the API key, re-input my network, etc. Nothing.

Has anyone else had this experience or might be able to offer some advice?

Cheers!

Without erasing and reflashing I'm not aware of anything else. Just make sure you have a note of your calibration equation BEFORE you erase! I'd recommend that you use BrewFlasher to performt the erase and reflash although it can be performed with the expressif toolset.

Good luck!

 

[bscuderi]

I purchased a pre-built ispindel, successfully (so I thought) calibrated and connected to ubidots.

So, the problem: even when I set the reporting period to 30 seconds, I cannot get the device to send more than the first data point from when it was turned on. I have changed the reporting period from 30 to 1500 in case that might be the issue, no change in results. I have reset the API key, re-input my network, etc. Nothing.

Has anyone else had this experience or might be able to offer some advice?

Cheers!

I had this problem. I was using fermentrack and not udibots however. For me it wasn’t software as some have alluded to but I had cheap clones of D1 minis off amazon and they have notorious well documented issues waking from deep sleep. No matter what I did with diodes resistors direct D0 to reset nothing works. I tried removing the board and repurposing as a simple temp sensor for home autmomation. Still won’t wake from sleep with my custom code so it’s a board issue with some d1 mini clones. I was able to use the bum boards with some other diy projects that don’t require batteries or sleeping but I purchased official lolin d1 minis from Ali express and just built a unit tonight and First one I built with the official boards worked perfectly. Considering I build 4 bad devices in a row with the defunct clone d1 minis I’m pretty ecstatic I solved my issue. I am guessing you aren’t ever waking again from deep sleep which explains why it only sends the first data point and never another...

 

[bscuderi]

I tried searching but I can’t find an example this drastic. I through my ispindel in yesterday’s brew so it’s been floating for about 24 hours beer is chugging away and is at high Kreusen as far as calibration I took a plain water reading of 25 degrees and then my sg of my wort 1.067 and am just using linear fromula. I feel like the graph starts out making sense then just drops off here. It’s only been fermenting a day it’s still going hard there’s no way it’s that low... thoughts? Does kreusen affect it that much?? I popped the lid to look it doesnt seem hung up on the edge or anything it’s floating in the middle surrounded in

 

[bscuderi]

I sanatized some tongs and fished it out cause I was worried maybe it’s leaking slowly and that’s why it’s giving weird tilts. Well not that wasn’t the case but this thing had huge globs of yeast and kreusen all over the cal globbed on and I believe that was significantly changing my reading. I washed it off plopped it back in and the next reading was 1.012 sup up quite a bit from the 0.980 it got to before cleaning it off. If this new cleaned off tilts anywhere close to accurate I suppose it’s probably close to being done. The only post I was able to find anywhere close to this problem the poster was ironically fermenting with s-04 as well and said hug globs were in his ispindel.

 

[bscuderi]

Update it stopped reporting and last battery voltage reports over 5v i got suspicious opened it up tube was filling with wort. It wasnt completely full and still was up top so I cleaned it up and rubbed with electronics with rubbing alcohol it seems okay Launched config mode and all sensors are reporting correctly. I’m scared to launch again these caps seem t flimsy for the job. Has anyone found a good gasket and a good cap replacement as i have broken one and don't trust these caps in general now. Seems like a flimsy cap to trust all these electronics inside to with no gasket.

 

[bscuderi]

Well I found a neoprene washer at ace hardware. Part #2863C 69 cents a piece that fits perfectly in the lid of the xl pelting. I’ll let you all know if it keeps leaks at bay. Gives me warmer fuzzies that it won’t happen again.

edit. This doesn’t sit In The right groove to seal the bottle. I’ll have to find an O ring that fits the groove

 

[rsquared]

Well I found a neoprene washer at ace hardware. Part #2863C 69 cents a piece that fits perfectly in the lid of the xl pelting. I’ll let you all know if it keeps leaks at bay. Gives me warmer fuzzies that it won’t happen again.

Doesn't the top of the petling sit in the groove between the threads and that outer ring? I think an o-ring to sit in that space would be a better bet.

 

[bscuderi]

Doesn't the top of the petling sit in the groove between the threads and that outer ring? I think an o-ring to sit in that space would be a better bet.

Shoot you are right. I saw scratches on top of the cap were perfectly round that I thought was the lip of the bottle as it was round but it was my pcb sticking out just enough to scratch a ring as it screwed on. Crap. Well back to the drawing board lol.

 

[bscuderi]

Deleted

 

[rsquared]

Shoot you are right. I saw scratches on top of the cap were perfectly round that I thought was the lip of the bottle as it was round but it was my pcb sticking out just enough to scratch a ring as it screwed on. Crap. Well back to the drawing board lol.

Yeah, I had a board scraping the top on one as well, and also had a little leaking... I haven't retested extensively yet, but after getting the board to sit a little better I had no leaking when I left it floating in a bucket of water for 2 hours.

 

[bscuderi]

Yeah, I had a board scraping the top on one as well, and also had a little leaking... I haven't retested extensively yet, but after getting the board to sit a little better I had no leaking when I left it floating in a bucket of water for 2 hours.

I tried an o ring that fit in the groove two different thicknesses and it just interferes with the flimsy lid from seating on there. So it looks like it fits but it won’t close. I’m kinda frustrated cause it was leaking again so I pulled it out. It seems with my petlings 1 lid out of 3 is a good tight fit and the others are just flimsy leak and don’t fit good. Somebody smarter than me should design a lid that you can 3D print that is stronger and can hold a gasket. I can’t trust chucking these into the beer with the leaking problems I’m having. I have more petlings coming from that European seller on eBay hopefully these get here and are a bit better than the ones I got from that space coast geochache store. Not sure if there’s a difference or not... but for as hard as these tubes are to track down in the us it sucks to be dead in the water with a broken cap... hopefully someone can make a 3D printable file to make some replacement parts.

 

[cayde1001]

@bscuderi... Try cutting a small piece of the bottom two corners of the pcb like the attached image. I previously had issues with it not sitting in the tube correctly and this helps. Bad news is you may need to recalibrate because it may cause the angle to change a small bit.

 

[bscuderi]

@bscuderi... Try cutting a small piece of the bottom two corners of the pcb like the attached image. I previously had issues with it not sitting in the tube correctly and this helps. Bad news is you may need to recalibrate because it may cause the angle to change a small bit.

View attachment 695533

that looks like a different pcb im using the jeffrey 2.0 and I also have some of the cherry phllip 4.0

 

[cayde1001]

that looks like a different pcb im using the jeffrey 2.0 and I also have some of the cherry phllip 4.0

I see... Cutting the corners of the cherry phillip pcb lets it sit a littler further in the tube which allows you to screw the lid on very tightly. I have had no leaking issues doing it that way. Not sure how the jeffery pcb sits but it may help that one too.