Is anyone using a Penguin Glycol Chiller?

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Lazer Wolf Brewing

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At $900, a Penguin glycol chiller is a huge purchase for me. Naturally, I went searching for reviews but came up basically empty handed. Ive seen it mentioned on here a couple times in 2 or 3 threads, but there weren't a lot of details given.

Who out there has a Penguin Glycol Chiller and can talk about their experience with it, pros/cons, etc? Just looking for that extra nudge to click the order button. Thanks!

Here is a link to the glycol chiller. And before anyone asks, I am not interested in the Ss Brewtech chiller. Its a couple hundred bucks more and I don't really like the open design of it.
 

Dcpcooks

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@Morrey has one that he is very happy with it last I heard. I haven’t heard any negative things about the company.

I have a polyscience unit that’s awesome but I got it used and it’s more $$$ than the Ss unit but it heats and cools. A friend has the ss unit and loves it.

You will still need some way to regulate temps and switch on the pump and you’ll need some type of coil for the fermentor.

I doubt you’d be unhappy with the unit
 
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Lazer Wolf Brewing

Lazer Wolf Brewing

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@Morrey has one that he is very happy with it last I heard. I haven’t heard any negative things about the company.

I have a polyscience unit that’s awesome but I got it used and it’s more $$$ than the Ss unit but it heats and cools. A friend has the ss unit and loves it.

You will still need some way to regulate temps and switch on the pump and you’ll need some type of coil for the fermentor.

I doubt you’d be unhappy with the unit
Thanks! Hopefully he can chime in and let me know what he thinks. I'm going to be purchasing a Spike unitank with their temp control coil package and wanted to pair that with the Penguin Chiller if the community gave me the thumbs up.
 

Dcpcooks

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Morrey has the ss uni tank but it’s not that different from a spike. IMHO all of this stuff is completely interchangeable.
 

Morrey

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Thanks! Hopefully he can chime in and let me know what he thinks. I'm going to be purchasing a Spike unitank with their temp control coil package and wanted to pair that with the Penguin Chiller if the community gave me the thumbs up.
I bought a Penguin chiller last year after having experience with Penguin products in the commercial printing business. I have had it for almost a year now, and if I remember correctly, I bought it on pre-order about 9 months ago. I am running 3 Ss fermenters with it and never have a concern with it keeping up. The quality seems outstanding and the customer service has been excellent. I give this unit a thumbs up.

The Spike system with a temp control package should function in a similar way as the Ss package I use. A temp controller senses the need for cooling (or heat) and switches on the pump in the glycol reservoir, or a heat pad for heating. My system has a heat pad that wraps around the bottom of the conical, but not sure how the Spike system is configured. I think either Spike or Ss are both top shelf.
 

Morrey

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@Lazer Wolf Brewing....wanted to give you a quick overview of how I use my Penguin.

In the summer, source cooling water is 85F so its hard to get wort from boiling to much under 90F with an IC. Once temps get as low as possible in the boil kettle with an IC, I transfer wort to the tank and let the Penguin bring temps from (say) 90F to yeast pitching temps. This only takes a few minutes and doesn't overburden the chiller to the point it cant keep up. Conversely, if I tried to bring temps down from much higher than 90F as a starting point, this may run the risk of too much strain on the chiller.

I run a 33% food grade glycol mix with distilled water in the two gallon reservoir, so you'll need a gallon, and while at it, I bought another gallon (2 gallons total) for reserves. I set the glycol chiller at 28F, and even when bringing down a fermenter full of warm wort, I have never seen the glycol get above 40F. The system recovers quickly, and like I said before, I am nearing a year of use with the Penguin.

I have 3 tanks running off my Penguin, so I am aware not to put too much demand on the chiller at once. For example, if I am cooling down wort from 90F down to 60F in tank #2, I would not also want to start a cold crash in tank #1 or #3. Just a bit of coordination so you don't put too much demand on the chiller at one time.

Hope this helps to plan your use of the Penguin.
 
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jlinn

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@Lazer Wolf Brewing....wanted to give you a quick overview of how I use my Penguin.

In the summer, source cooling water is 85F so its hard to get wort from boiling to much under 90F with an IC. Once temps get as low as possible in the boil kettle with an IC, I transfer wort to the tank and let the Penguin bring temps from (say) 90F to yeast pitching temps. This only takes a few minutes and doesn't overburden the chiller to the point it cant keep up. Conversely, if I tried to bring temps down from much higher than 90F as a starting point, this may run the risk of too much strain on the chiller.

I run a 33% food grade glycol mix with distilled water in the two gallon reservoir, so you'll need a gallon, and while at it, I bought another gallon (2 gallons total) for reserves. I set the glycol chiller at 28F, and even when bringing down a fermenter full of warm wort, I have never seen the glycol get above 40F. The system recovers quickly, and like I said before, I am nearing a year of use with the Penguin.

I have 3 tanks running off my Penguin, so I am aware not to put too much demand on the chiller at once. For example, if I am cooling down wort from 90F down to 60F in tank #2, I would not also want to start a cold crash in tank #1 or #3. Just a bit of coordination so you don't put too much demand on the chiller at one time.

Hope this helps to plan your use of the Penguin.
Hey @Morrey , I recently started using a Penguin Chiller and am hoping you can share some wisdom. Are you using yours to hold temps during fermentation? My Spike CF5 is in my hot garage so I'm trying to hold it at around 67. Inevitably, the Penguin will chill it a couple degrees colder than my target, then the Spike warming unit will bring it back up, the Penguin will kick back on and the cycle continues.

I recently raised the temp on the Penguin to 50 degrees and it isn't as drastic a swing, but it is still there. Is there anything you're doing that avoids this?

Thanks!
 

Morrey

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Hey @Morrey , I recently started using a Penguin Chiller and am hoping you can share some wisdom. Are you using yours to hold temps during fermentation? My Spike CF5 is in my hot garage so I'm trying to hold it at around 67. Inevitably, the Penguin will chill it a couple degrees colder than my target, then the Spike warming unit will bring it back up, the Penguin will kick back on and the cycle continues.

I recently raised the temp on the Penguin to 50 degrees and it isn't as drastic a swing, but it is still there. Is there anything you're doing that avoids this?

Thanks!

Yes, I use my chiller to keep fermentation temperatures stable as you are doing. Like you, I have a very hot (summer temps) location to keep my tanks cool. 65F is a very typical set temp for me so we are basically in the same temp range.

I use Ss Brewtech Uni tanks with heating and cooling, so there may be some minor differences in the way our tank controllers operate:

First, I run my Penguin Chiller at 28F. This is set and I never mess with that. I use 33% glycol and 66% distilled water in the chiller.

Your temp controller on the conical can be set for a value called hysteresis or swing. In other words, if the hysteresis is set at 5 degree swing, it can vary +/- 5F causing you concerns. You can change this COOLING hysteresis and make it - say 1 degree - so your swings are very minor and you'll stay near 67F or +/- 1 degree.

You know you wont need heat in your hot garage (for now) so you can set the heat for a wider swing so it wont be fighting your cooling cycle. I'm not sure how your controller is setup compared to mine, but you may wish to simply UNPLUG the heating element so your system wont be fighting itself....at least in the summer.

But...heating and cooling swings can be set to operate differently. Set the cooling range tight and heating range loose. In the winter, try the opposite way.....but setting your Penguin at 50F is not necessary when the tank controller is designed to handle this function.

**Some folks are reluctant to set temps "tight" since they have been using ATC devices on freezers and they are protecting the compressors by not having tight settings and conservative compressor delays. This is not so much the case with a glycol chiller system, so setting the cooling swing tight is not a real concern to me.
 
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Frogger42

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I was about to buy a penguin chiller and decided to DIY myself a similar unit per multiple build threads. Total cost of approx $250 all in
 

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I just scored a fairly new 1/3hp glycol chiller from a restuarant/ beirgarden auction for $200... If anyone is looking for cheap stainless tables / fridges and chillers they are a good source. Ive gone to a few now and some of the stuff is practically given away... the fairly new walk in cooler sold for $200 complete also.
 

jlinn

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Yes, I use my chiller to keep fermentation temperatures stable as you are doing. Like you, I have a very hot (summer temps) location to keep my tanks cool. 65F is a very typical set temp for me so we are basically in the same temp range.

I use Ss Brewtech Uni tanks with heating and cooling, so there may be some minor differences in the way our tank controllers operate:

First, I run my Penguin Chiller at 28F. This is set and I never mess with that. I use 33% glycol and 66% distilled water in the chiller.

Your temp controller on the conical can be set for a value called hysteresis or swing. In other words, if the hysteresis is set at 5 degree swing, it can vary +/- 5F causing you concerns. You can change this COOLING hysteresis and make it - say 1 degree - so your swings are very minor and you'll stay near 67F or +/- 1 degree.

You know you wont need heat in your hot garage (for now) so you can set the heat for a wider swing so it wont be fighting your cooling cycle. I'm not sure how your controller is setup compared to mine, but you may wish to simply UNPLUG the heating element so your system wont be fighting itself....at least in the summer.

But...heating and cooling swings can be set to operate differently. Set the cooling range tight and heating range loose. In the winter, try the opposite way.....but setting your Penguin at 50F is not necessary when the tank controller is designed to handle this function.

**Some folks are reluctant to set temps "tight" since they have been using ATC devices on freezers and they are protecting the compressors by not having tight settings and conservative compressor delays. This is not so much the case with a glycol chiller system, so setting the cooling swing tight is not a real concern to me.
Thank you! I really appreciate the help.
 

augiedoggy

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I just read in a thread on another forum that this penguin chiller is actually made from an air conditioner unit? when looking at the pictures this appears to be the case.
 
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I just recieved my penguin in the mail, i have a spike 5 gallon conical, ill be doing exactly what Murrey is doing, with a +/- 1 degree and glycol temp at 28f. Im in texas, ambient in my garage is someone been 100F and what ever the surface temp of the sun is.
Should be brewing next weekend and i can report back on the temp swings.
@Murrey, anyone reason you do 33% and not 50/50? Is it just not needed?
 

Morrey

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I just recieved my penguin in the mail, i have a spike 5 gallon conical, ill be doing exactly what Murrey is doing, with a +/- 1 degree and glycol temp at 28f. Im in texas, ambient in my garage is someone been 100F and what ever the surface temp of the sun is.
Should be brewing next weekend and i can report back on the temp swings.
@Murrey, anyone reason you do 33% and not 50/50? Is it just not needed?

Good to hear your Penguin is in. I went 33% since the rep at Penguin suggested I do this to run the chiller at 28F which I suppose is considered a normal configuration.

I hear TX is one hot azz place....kinda like the surface of the sun, LOL. My temps inside my non-AC brew cave are definitely in the upper 80's, and normal ferm temps are no issue at all. Crashing can be the part requiring attention, and I tried to crash at 33F once and had problems getting low...dropped the temp of the Penguin to 24F.....then the temps started rising. If you see this, look for an ice block surrounding the coils in the chiller. This is where you'd need a 50/50 mix in the reservoir. I have heard that glycol is not best run too rich since there is a diminishing return on the thermal transfer. In other words, more isn't always better. Water is your heat exchanger transfer medium and glycol simply keeps it from freezing.

Realistically, lots of brewers crash at 38-40F and you should be ok in your garage with that temp. if you want lower, increase your glycol ratio and drop your chiller temp. This can be tricky since you are in the zone that ice blocks can also form inside your fermenter coils too.

If you are ok to crash 38-40F in this heat, all is good. In the fall you can easily set 35F with no issues at all.
 

mongoose33

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I just recieved my penguin in the mail, i have a spike 5 gallon conical, ill be doing exactly what Murrey is doing, with a +/- 1 degree and glycol temp at 28f. Im in texas, ambient in my garage is someone been 100F and what ever the surface temp of the sun is.
Should be brewing next weekend and i can report back on the temp swings.
@Murrey, anyone reason you do 33% and not 50/50? Is it just not needed?
@RufusBrews, when did you order yours? I ordered one on July 26, and still no sign of even a ship date. Credit card was charged, so I know it's in process.
 

mongoose33

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Good to hear your Penguin is in. I went 33% since the rep at Penguin suggested I do this to run the chiller at 28F which I suppose is considered a normal configuration.

I hear TX is one hot azz place....kinda like the surface of the sun, LOL. My temps inside my non-AC brew cave are definitely in the upper 80's, and normal ferm temps are no issue at all. Crashing can be the part requiring attention, and I tried to crash at 33F once and had problems getting low...dropped the temp of the Penguin to 24F.....then the temps started rising. If you see this, look for an ice block surrounding the coils in the chiller. This is where you'd need a 50/50 mix in the reservoir. I have heard that glycol is not best run too rich since there is a diminishing return on the thermal transfer. In other words, more isn't always better. Water is your heat exchanger transfer medium and glycol simply keeps it from freezing.

Realistically, lots of brewers crash at 38-40F and you should be ok in your garage with that temp. if you want lower, increase your glycol ratio and drop your chiller temp. This can be tricky since you are in the zone that ice blocks can also form inside your fermenter coils too.

If you are ok to crash 38-40F in this heat, all is good. In the fall you can easily set 35F with no issues at all.
Another thing you can try if your chiller doesn't get you as low as you want is to do some more insulation. The Spike CF has two handles, three legs, a trub dump valve, a racking valve, a sampling valve, a blowoff tube/gas manifold, and a top where the coil enters the fermenter. In other words, there are all these reverse-radiators sucking heat into the fermenter.

I've done different things with varying degrees of success. One has been to wrap a 4x6 foot moving blanket around the fermenter to try to isolate some of those appendages from ambient. I've laid towels across the top once I've done that to try to give it a little help. When you're in an 80- or 90-degree garage, there's going to be a lot of heat gain no matter what you do.

[BTW, I tried to do my own poor-man's chiller using a reservoir in a freezer and running the lines out of the top of the freezer and over to the fermenter. It was adequate for maintaining fermentation temps, but just couldn't handle crashing. Thus my ordering the Penguin, which means now I really am a "poor" man. :)]

I even went so far at one point to create a little "closet" into which I directed the cold air from an air conditioner to try to create a tiny space in which I kept the temps colder than the garage. It worked to some extent, though I discovered that pushing 55-degree cold air into a space in which I am trying to crash a fermenter to 32 simply is running warmer air over the fermenter than the temps I'm trying to crash to. It only works well if the fermenter is wrapped with some sort of additional insulation.

It has occurred to me to get a sleeping bag and try covering the entire setup with that, leaving a small hole through which the tubing, temp probe, and heater (not relevant in your case) can pass outside the sleeping bag.

Couple pics on the bottom showing what I've done. Mine is a 10-gallon so the size of the blankets you might use would probably be different sizes.

conicalblanket.jpg chillchamber.jpg
 

schematix

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I just read in a thread on another forum that this penguin chiller is actually made from an air conditioner unit? when looking at the pictures this appears to be the case.
do you have a link to the other forum?

I have the penguin as well and the 3 complaints are:
1. The reservoir is actually pretty easy to overflow the way its designed.
2. The reservoir is completely impossible to drain and get the glycol out of when it's time to change it, or if it needs to be idled for a while.
3. The pumps they sell with it don't have enough ass. It only pumps at a trickle through the coil for me.
 

mongoose33

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do you have a link to the other forum?

I have the penguin as well and the 3 complaints are:
I have a Penguin coming; let me ask you a few questions in relation to the below.

1. The reservoir is actually pretty easy to overflow the way its designed.
What I've read is that it is a 2-gallon reservoir; if I just pour in 2 gallons, that should prevent an overflow, shouldn't it? Or is it that I need to be sure the pumps are in place before filling?

2. The reservoir is completely impossible to drain and get the glycol out of when it's time to change it, or if it needs to be idled for a while.
Can't it be siphoned? Of course, I plan to have mine on a shelf under a bench, so maybe if it's on the floor that's not so easy. But even then--couldn't you just use the pump to drain it?

3. The pumps they sell with it don't have enough ass. It only pumps at a trickle through the coil for me.
I have Spike's pump, didn't buy Penguin's, so this shouldn't be an issue for me.
 

schematix

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I have a Penguin coming; let me ask you a few questions in relation to the below.
What I've read is that it is a 2-gallon reservoir; if I just pour in 2 gallons, that should prevent an overflow, shouldn't it? Or is it that I need to be sure the pumps are in place before filling?
Yah that's accurate. The difficulty is that in order to keep the coil submerged the tank needs to be almost full. If you place the chiller below the fermenter, it will siphon back down to the tank. There's not much difference between min level to keep the coil covered and overflow level. I think the best placement of the chiller is actually above the fermenter, but that's a huge PITA.

Can't it be siphoned? Of course, I plan to have mine on a shelf under a bench, so maybe if it's on the floor that's not so easy. But even then--couldn't you just use the pump to drain it?
Yah that's accurate too. The pump will still leave an inch or two of liquid though. An auto-siphon might leave half that. The unit is HEAVY too. You can't just tip it out. The coil is also permanently installed in the tank so best case you can clean it out with a bunch of paper towels i guess.

I have Spike's pump, didn't buy Penguin's, so this shouldn't be an issue for me.
Not really familiar but thought they were similar when i looked. It works, i just think it could work better. Don't use low ID QDs on your hoses. I made that mistake. It works though.
 

augiedoggy

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do you have a link to the other forum?

I have the penguin as well and the 3 complaints are:
1. The reservoir is actually pretty easy to overflow the way its designed.
2. The reservoir is completely impossible to drain and get the glycol out of when it's time to change it, or if it needs to be idled for a while.
3. The pumps they sell with it don't have enough ass. It only pumps at a trickle through the coil for me.
https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?78634-Aqua-chiller-for-temp-control
 

Morrey

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Don't use low ID QDs on your hoses. I made that mistake. It works though.
I think the QD's I bought from US Plastics have a 3/8" barb, but necks down to 1/4" ID inside the QD. Do you have another source for QD's that don't neck down internally?
 

schematix

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If i did it again i'd probably put in a 3/8" to 1/2" barb coupler right after the pump, use 1/2" tubing, and then use a larger size QD.

The other thing i'd do is go stainless instead of plastic and thread the male disconnect piece right onto my fermenter coil.

Google "1/2 stainless quick disconnect with poppet" and you'll see there are lots of beefier options.
 

mongoose33

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I think the QD's I bought from US Plastics have a 3/8" barb, but necks down to 1/4" ID inside the QD. Do you have another source for QD's that don't neck down internally?
If you look on the Penguin site, they have some quick disconnects there that are different than the US Plastics ones we use, Morrey. They look like their ID is similar to the US Plastics ones, but can't be sure. Here they are: https://www.penguinchillers.com/product/38-quick-disconnects-for-silicone-tubing/

For those wondering what the US Plastic ones are, here:

This: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=118171

And this: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=118169

They do reduce throughput somewhat. I did a number of experiments with different combinations, including adding a second pump to increase throughput. I'm hopeful the Penguin's superior thermal capacity will overcome any constriction in the connectors.
 

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https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/quick-disconnect-ftss-kit?variant=12468315652167

Another option. I use the usplastics discos as well and haven’t really run into any issues other than condensation building up inbetween the line and foam insulation I got from HD. The Ss solution looks pretty clean and says it wicks away that condensation that is getting trapped inside the foam. It also says they are 3/8,s.

I don’t have the penguin brand chiller rather the Ss version but am happy with that purchase and don’t regret it. I did look at the penguin brand as well. Buy either and you will be happy you did ;)
 

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so it's been a while, if i may bring back an older thread, I wonder how have your Penguin Chillers been holding up?
 

mongoose33

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so it's been a while, if i may bring back an older thread, I wonder how have your Penguin Chillers been holding up?
Still going. It still is an incredibly powerful system--recovery is amazing. When crashing I have it set at 28 degrees, and it never goes above 31 (or maybe 32) degrees.

One thing I noticed with my Spike CF10 is if I leave it at 28 degrees during fermentation, the system will ping-pong between heating and cooling. During fermentation I typically have the Penguin set to 45 or 50 degrees to reduce/eliminate the ping-ponging.
 

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awesome, thanks Mongoose. Since I'm aiming to cool 3 x CF30s, I went ahead and got the Penguin XL 1 1/3hp!!!

Very excited to get this up and running in the bedroom brewery! :)
 

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Well... SS Had a 1/5hp chiller on their website for a bit. Now its not on there anymore. Looks like I may have to get the Penguin instead.
 

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I think the QD's I bought from US Plastics have a 3/8" barb, but necks down to 1/4" ID inside the QD. Do you have another source for QD's that don't neck down internally?
Morrey, I may have missed it, but what size Penguin did you get for your 3 fermenter app? 1/3 or 1/2 HP (or larger)? Are you still pleased with its performance? I see you have the unit on a shelf above the dump level of the fermenters -- is that to mitigate siphoning from the fermenters and overflowing the unit, and do you think having it elevated is necessary or just nice to have (versus being "on the floor")? Thanks!
 

Nate R

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Hey all. Anyone know what the "Po" means when setting temp on the Penguin?

Also, can you set the unit to have a swing in temp? In other words, can i set it to say 60... but then tell it not to cycle on until the bath hits 70?
Sometimes it cycles on and off, other time it waits... still working on this thing- its brand new for me.

Thanks all!!
 

PenguinChillers

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Hey all. Anyone know what the "Po" means when setting temp on the Penguin?

Also, can you set the unit to have a swing in temp? In other words, can i set it to say 60... but then tell it not to cycle on until the bath hits 70?
Sometimes it cycles on and off, other time it waits... still working on this thing- its brand new for me.

Thanks all!!

You should contact us @ [email protected]
 

Gozie Boy

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I had a few mimor issues... i got a response to my email in less than 4 hours.
I would reccomened contacting Penguin directly.
Once you get some operating time with your chiller, would be great to hear your thoughts about it, including your set up and how you are using it. Thx.
 

Nate R

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Good morning all!
So i have only been using the chiller for a week now on one batch, so these are all preliminary findings:
-Batch was 5.5 gal on a Spike cf5. Have the chiller coils, but no heater in the neoprene jacket.
-I have the 1/3 hp (smallest one) of the Penguin Chiller.
-It is overall really pretty quiet. Sound like a large stand fan on high when it cycles on.
-It chills VERY fast- like from 72 to 30 in about 5 mins or less.
-I was maintaining temps at 72 or so for fermenting, and had the chiller set to cool down to 30, with a 30 degree swing- the thing would cycle on probably 2-4 times a day max in ambient 74-77 degree room.
-I just cold crashed- set cf5 temp to 38, was able to crash from 76 down to 38 in about 4 hours. I think I had a little icing occurring, but I would just step up the spike temp to help balance this. Keep an eye on this with any glycol chiller I would assume.
-During crashing, the machine is cycling on and off about once every 20 minutes or so. I have it set to 26 with a 5 degree swing.

Overall thoughts:
-I would say spend the extra money for the 1/2hp if you are going to do more than one batch at a time. I think this 1/3hp would easily do a single larger size with no issues.
-Service has been great so far. All emails/ questions have been answered in 4 hours or less (on business days).
-I really like that it's an American Made product- I think that is one of the main reasons Spike recommends them. Also, you can see the level of care and ownership from Eric in his replies.
-The Penguin does not come with wheels. Every time you move it, make sure to let it sit for 2 to 3 hours before use. If you have a permanent spot for it, it tucks away nicely in size.

My Setup (for @Gozie Boy asked above)
Ok, so I recently moved houses, and we lost the 3rd spare bedroom that was my brew-cave equipment storage room. So everything for brewing (equipment like fermenters) has to be brought into the house to brew (thankfully I can still brew/ferment inside- it is 100+ in the garage!). So i needed a way to roll the Penguin in and out (these things weigh 40lbs or so). I ended up getting a plastic push cart from the local Harbor Freight store- like $80 if you use a coupon. I like it because now I do not have to bend over/ squat every time I need to get a sample, etc. Plus, I can have drippings, etc. and not get it on the floor. Also, if I ever have a bad leak, I think this cart can hold the spillage.


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augiedoggy

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Overall thoughts:
-I would say spend the extra money for the 1/2hp if you are going to do more than one batch at a time. I think this 1/3hp would easily do a single larger size with no issues.


View attachment 639481
I am using a 1/3hp chiller to control temps and lager (4) 110 gallon conicals with no issues I dont cold crash beyond 40 degrees with this setup however... a 1/3 chiller should be more than enough power to control temps on (4) 15 gallon conicals.
in fact my home setup uses a 1/3hp beerline chiler to control 3- 12.5g and one 8gallon conical...for about 5 years now.
 

Nate R

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I am using a 1/3hp chiller to control temps and lager (4) 110 gallon conicals with no issues I dont cold crash beyond 40 degrees with this setup however... a 1/3 chiller should be more than enough power to control temps on (4) 15 gallon conicals.
in fact my home setup uses a 1/3hp beerline chiler to control 3- 12.5g and one 8gallon conical...for about 5 years now.
Great feeeback! Hopefully someday i will add a 2nd 5 gal....
Question- your 1/3hp... how big a resovoir does it have?
 

limulus

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I just got a Penguin 2HP XL a few days ago. I'll be using it for three 5bbl unitanks and two 5bbl BBTs. I was impressed by the assembly of the unit. They have now gone to all stainless cabinets for these larger units and I got one of the last non-stainless models which was $2800 including tax. It is not compact but that is OK. I hope to use mine in Sept.



 
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