Insulating a metal MLT

[Auger]

My MLT is a stainless half-barrel keg, wrapped with the foil-coated bubble wrap type insulation. My problem is that with any outside heat (propane burner) applied to the tun, the insulation melts.

Has anyone tried using rock wool as a fireproof/non-melting insulation?

 

[TexasWine]

There's an entire thread somewhere in here on this subject. Don't have the link handy, but I'm sure a quick Google search would turn something up for you.

But yes, purple have done what you are describing.

 

[TheMadKing]

I made my reflectix mash jacket removable by adding industrial velcro to a flap over a vertical seam. It's 4 layers thick and I just take it off during the heat and boil and put it back on during mashing. I can post a picture around noon when I go home for lunch.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I made my reflectix mash jacket removable by adding industrial velcro to a flap over a vertical seam. It's 4 layers thick and I just take it off during the heat and boil and put it back on during mashing. I can post a picture around noon when I go home for lunch.

I went with velcro too, since I BIAB I wanted to be able to take the insulation off when it came time to cool. It's also nice to get it out of the way during clean-up.

 

[Brian77095]

Next time you can do a search here for "Direct fire" and look for the thread below.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=154652&highlight=direct

 

[TheMadKing]

Pics of my jacket. It's 4 layers with all edges and seams taped with aluminum tape, plus a 3 layer "mash mat" plus 2 layers on the lid.

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[Auger]

Pics of my jacket. It's 4 layers with all edges and seams taped with aluminum tape, plus a 3 layer "mash mat" plus 2 layers on the lid.

Yeah that's the same stuff I'm using currently, which is melting.

I can't take it on and off while brewing due to the setup of my brew tree:

 

[day_trippr]

Welding blanket?

Cheers!

 

[TheMadKing]

Yeah that's the same stuff I'm using currently, which is melting.

I can't take it on and off while brewing due to the setup of my brew tree:

Gotcha, that makes sense.

Well maybe it's time to invest in a rims coil and a chugger pump

or something like this might work

http://www.zoro.com/unitherm-ceramic-insulation-24-in-w-25-ft-cf6-1-24x25/i/G8489625/?gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA-fPXtITt3f0BEiQAPCkqQacBxfF390eZl7h95NhzdF9vNAzcnAYY8KOnR7RBgnYaAn9Z8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[BeardedBrews]

I imagine it would be possible to add enough insulation to negate the need for any additional heat during the mash. That is assuming that you're not directly heating your strike water in the mash tun.

That said, you've got the chugger pump sitting there waiting for you. It wouldn't be too hard to hook up a HERMS coil in that HLT and then you'd be golden. You could buy an immersion chiller, slap some QD fittings on the end, and then drop it in the HLT. As long as you pump your sparge water through it after the mash, you shouldn't even have that hard a time with clean-up.

http://www.nybrewsupply.com/beer-ho...ort-chiller-garden-hose-fittings-12-x-50.html

 

[LongEZBrew]

Convert to HERMS (or RIMS)? I only run two burners now.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I was suggesting HERMS so that you didn't have to build a controller just for the RIMS tube, but either would work. Either way I think you're going to get tempted by automatic temperature controls.

I'm betting the cheapest solution would be to replace the keg MLT with a 100qt igloo cooler and a conversion kit.

 

[Auger]

I was suggesting HERMS so that you didn't have to build a controller just for the RIMS tube, but either would work. Either way I think you're going to get tempted by automatic temperature controls.

I'm betting the cheapest solution would be to replace the keg MLT with a 100qt igloo cooler and a conversion kit.

I've thought about this...the only thing stopping me is I'll have to cut off the arm for the burner and weld on a shelf for a cooler and it hasn't frustrated me enough to get to that point yet.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I've thought about this...the only thing stopping me is I'll have to cut off the arm for the burner and weld on a shelf for a cooler and it hasn't frustrated me enough to get to that point yet.

I'm with you there, all of this hardware stuff is "does this bother me enough to change and risk having to recalculate all of my recipes?"

I do believe that if you filled the bottom skirt with reflectix layers, built an insulated lid, and added a few more wraps to the outside, you probably might not have to heat at all.

I suggested the HERMS route because it would let you apply heat to the mash indirectly. A permanent HERMS coil in the HLT is a classy solution, but a standard copper immersion chiller works too, and you can probably find one on Craigslist cheaper than that extra roll of Reflectix.

 

[dmcman73]

I know this is an old thread but, I insulated my keggle with solid foam and wood and i only lose a degree and a half in 60 minutes: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=528153