Ingredients for a first brew

[Sutpen]

Hey all, I'm getting ready for my first brew day, and I need a little help.

I've heard people suggest wheat beers for a first brew, but I don't love wheat beers, and I figure I should be making something I love. I have Charlie Papazian's book, and an experienced friend of mine (who will be helping me out) gave me Dave Miller's Homebrewing Guide. I was glancing through Miller's book, and his recipes seem pretty straightforward. I think I've settled on two possibilities, namely an Oatmeal Stout, or a Double Trappist-style Ale. I'm going to include Miller's recipes below, and I'd be really grateful to anyone who can recommend an online retailer to get this stuff (no LHBS, I'm afraid). I'm going to have to pick up a few items that my friend can't seem to find, like a hydrometer, and some new siphoning equipment, in addition to the ingredients, and austinhomebrew.com is looking promising. Again, any guidance on specifics would really help me out, including "What are you thinking brewing _____ on your first go!?!"

Thanks in advance.


EDIT: sorry, here are the recipes Miller suggests

-Oatmeal Stout-
7.5 lbs British pale ale malt
8 oz British caramel malt
8 oz roasted barley
12 oz flaked oats
Bittering hops: 8 AAU pellets (Fuggle)
-->British ale or stout yeast

-Trappist Ale (Double)-
9.5 lbs pale, two-row malt
1 lb 40 L crystal malt
1 lb dark brown sugar
Bittering hops: 7 AAU pellets (50-50 blend, Hallertau and Fuggle)
-->Belgian Trappist ale yeast

 

[Beerrific]

Both of those will be fine to do for you first brew! Choose the one you like best, also think about fermentation temps. The stout will prefer mid 60s where as the Belgian likes it warmer...in the upper 60s/lower 70s.

AHS (Austin Homebrew Supply) is an excellent source for ingredients. Other ones that people like are Morebeer, Midwest, and NorthernBrewer. Can't really go wrong with these, choose the one that has what you want and is the best price. Also, if one is closer they will get it to you faster.

I think having an experienced brewer to help you will make things go much smother. Good luck and welcome.

 

[Sutpen]

Ah, thanks for the advice. One more question: I was under the (very general, I'm sure) impression that ale yeasts are okay in the 70s, and it was lager yeasts that needed to be in the 60s and below. I'm curious because, even if I don't brew the stout this time, I will most definitely want to get one in the fermenter for my 2nd or 3rd brew (stouts are among my absolute favorite beers). The temperature requirement is a concern because I'm a poor student, and although I'm living in a house, I have a hot basement and no central air. The only acceptable place to keep my carboys is in my room, which is generally around 72 degrees. Theoretically, I could set my AC window unit to 65, but that would be pretty cold a room to sleep in, etc. Anyone have any similar experiences? I've been looking for a cheap fridge to stick in the basement on craigslist, but so far no luck.

 

[Beerrific]

Most ales will do well up to 70. It really depends on the strain, but 70 would be my max if I did not know otherwise. You can look at the yeast suppliers website (for example http://www.whitelabs.com) for exact temperature ranges.

Now, there are things that you can do to keep the temp down. You can get a big rubber bin/trash can put the bucket/carboy in there an fill it with water, cover it with a towel, and point a fan on it. The evaporation will cool it. Adding soda bottles, filled with ice, and frozen will cool that even more.

The Irish ale yeast, for example, likes 65-68. Over that probably wont kill your beer but you risk off flavors (too much fruitiness, etc.).

 

[Sutpen]

Ok, I have one of those big plastic things you stick kegs in and plenty of extra towels. Do I need to take the same steps to keep a secondary fermenter cool? And what about the bottles once they're conditioning?

 

[Beerrific]

Ok, I have one of those big plastic things you stick kegs in and plenty of extra towels. Do I need to take the same steps to keep a secondary fermenter cool? And what about the bottles once they're conditioning?

Temperature is most important during active fermentation. When you rack to secondary active fermentation should be done, so temperature is not as important. But, the point of a secondary is to clear the beer and that is usually most successfully at low temperatures. I might recommend skipping the secondary...a lot of people don't do it and get great results. You can do a search, there are a couple threads where this is debated.

Bottles can be at any temperature (less than say 80) to carb. Once carbed they can stored cool or warm. If stored cool they will clear up more and have a longer life. I keep my bottles at room temperature until I have room in the fridge, keeping as many as I can in the fridge.

 

[PseudoChef]

All-grain for a first brew is impressive!! With the recipes you listed, it doesn't seem like one would be better over the other.

I'm on a stout kick, so I say go for that one and send me one for, uhh....critiquing!

 

[Beerrific]

All-grain for a first brew is impressive!! With the recipes you listed, it doesn't seem like one would be better over the other.

I'm on a stout kick, so I say go for that one and send me one for, uhh....critiquing!

I think the first ingredients on the list are extracts...probably meant for LME.

 

[Sutpen]

Yeah, that was LME. Haha, to be honest I feel like kind of a chump brewing with extract, so I'll do my best to accelerate my graduation to all-grain. I just need a few months to accumulate the money for the additional equipment...

Anyone know where I can get less than 25 lbs of flaked oats at one time? How do you guys buy ingredients when you don't want a kit offered by an online retailer?

 

[Beerrific]

Yeah, that was LME. Haha, to be honest I feel like kind of a chump brewing with extract, so I'll do my best to accelerate my graduation to all-grain. I just need a few months to accumulate the money for the additional equipment...

Anyone know where I can get less than 25 lbs of flaked oats at one time? How do you guys buy ingredients when you don't want a kit offered by an online retailer?

You shouldn't extract, is where everyone starts (well almost). There are a few brewers on this forum that have been doing extract for years and make great looking beer. If you can use DME, it is bit more expensive but IMO will give you a better beer. Use at the rate of about 0.8lb DME for each 1lb LME.

I would suggest doing a few extracts, if you feel comfortable with the process move to partial mashing, then to all grain eventually. Don't rush, you can make excellent beer with all these processes.

All the online supplier (AHS, Morebeer, Midwest, NorthernBrewer, etc.) sell all these ingredients separately. You should be able to get all the grain by the ounce/pound, hops by the ounce, and extract by the pound. Check the price, but Quaker Oats might be cheaper (rolled oats=flaked oats).

 

[Sutpen]

Hey thanks for all the sage advice, Beerific. It's much appreciated. Here's one more: when it comes time to sanitize, what's the best sanitizer to use? I know there are a bunch of sanitizers made for brewers, but is there anything wrong with using a little bit of bleach in a whole lot of water? Both Miller and Papazian recommend it (something like 2 tbsp in 5 gallons of water), but my experienced buddy advised against it, and I've read some claims that it degrades plastic and can pit glass. Yea or Nay?

EDIT:
And while I'm at it, I had better ask this now, before the question becomes more urgent: If I order some yeast, what should I do if it arrives before I'm ready to use it? Stick it in the freezer?