Inductor Tank Regimen

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Apoxbrew

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Just curious what those of you with inductor tank fermenters are doing for cleaning.

I'm doing a clean with PBW and a sani with StarSan currently... my issue is that I'm doing 15 gallons at a time in a 30 gallon inductor and I'm going through lots of PBW during the cleaning process.

Wondering if just mixing up a few gallons of PBW and then just splashing/swirling said mix around would work rather than having to mix a whole 15gallons of PBW.

Anyway, just wondering what others were doing. Thanks!
 
I use 4 85g conical tanks commercially, and mostly because of size, I had to come up with a clean in place strategy. I ended up buying a stainless rotating spray ball from st pats of texas, fixing it into a lid for the tank, and using a sump pump in a bucket below the drain valve. This works great for not too much money. I just need 2 gallons of PBW or hot caustic in the bucket, flip the switch and let it run for 10-30 minutes. The pump keeps the liquid hot, it drains continuously back into the bucket (bottom drain valve must be big enough to keep up with drainage flow) and once clean, just switch buckets with hot water, rinse, switch buckets again with more hot water, rinse again, then switch for final rinse with Five Star saniclean sanitizer.
 
Hi Budzu,
I will be using these inductors commercially as well. I will have 4 60 gallons, two 30 inch and two 24 inch. Would you happen to have any photos of what you did with the lid? Did you buy an extra lid just for CIP? Or do refit the spray ball into the lid each time you do CIP on a given fermenter?
Thanks,
Sean
 
Cool I wish you the best of luck on the project!

It is hard to explain the setup without pictures so I will get some soon. I guess it would be best to order another lid, but I have one dedicated lid, and there is always at least one tank empty so I have not needed an additional lid. We also have a stainless 80g conical.

Here's a few pics that I have now, nothing of the lid yet.
The bottom valve consists of a 2" to 1" reducer, a 1" hex nipple, a 1" 2-piece ball valve, and a 1.5" triclamp adapter. The side port is a 1/2" ball valve, and npt fitting screwed directly into the thick plastic. It is placed a bit too high, for the remaining tanks I put it quite farther down the cone.

PICT0026.JPG
PICT0024.JPG
 
Thanks for the info. That's interesting that you screwed to side port ball valve directly into the tank. I purchased flanges for side that I was going to screw into, but maybe your approach is simpler. Looks like you've got a silicone o-ring there too.

If you get a chance to post photos of your lid and CIP assembly, that would be great.
 
I use 4 85g conical tanks commercially, and mostly because of size, I had to come up with a clean in place strategy. I ended up buying a stainless rotating spray ball from st pats of texas, fixing it into a lid for the tank, and using a sump pump in a bucket below the drain valve. This works great for not too much money. I just need 2 gallons of PBW or hot caustic in the bucket, flip the switch and let it run for 10-30 minutes. The pump keeps the liquid hot, it drains continuously back into the bucket (bottom drain valve must be big enough to keep up with drainage flow) and once clean, just switch buckets with hot water, rinse, switch buckets again with more hot water, rinse again, then switch for final rinse with Five Star saniclean sanitizer.


Curious as to what solution of caustic are you using and at what temperature? I've seen a lot of caustics ran at 180 degrees but the poly tanks aren't supposed to go over 140 from what ive read.

Rock Chalk

Chris
 
Where did you purchase the 3 piece valve assembly from and the bulk head. I wanted to get a conical fermenter and heard alot about the induction tanks and minibrew systems. SS conicals are just too much for me. I like your setup.
 
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