Induction Controller?

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oujens

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I have a 240v 20 amp outlet in my brewing space that I would like to use for induction. I was set to purchase the Avantco IC3500 until I stumbled across the Adcraft unit that has a manual control which would allow for the use of a controller if I ever choose to add mash recirculation to my system. I assume I could still reciruculate with the Avantco but would need to find a low setting that would keep the mash temp relatively stable, but being able to use a controller would be a better option. Are there any controllers that would work with a 240v 20 amp outlet? Would one be easy to build? Since no element is involved, is GFCI necessary? I have a 120v outlet nearby for use as well for a pump. Anybody have suggestions or advice? I would really appreciate it.

https://www.katom.com/122-INDC208V.html

Thanks!
 
Sorry I can't answer your specific question, but...

The unit you linked to happens to be 208V 1-Phase. If you are looking to use this at home, unless you specifically had it installed for a purpose, it would be highly unlikely you have 208V power.

Edited to add: Admittedly, I'm no expert and was thinking of 208V 3-Phase power... so it's possible that it would work on 240V residential power. Perhaps someone with more experience can provide a more detailed response.
 
I have one of these and it works fine one a 240 20amp circuit. Love the manual knob. I would love to use a controller with this but haven't crossed that bridge yet. Soon hopefully.

Cheers!
 
Thanks for the replies. As it stands I'm trying to go electric without installing a new outlet since I would be running it to a detached garage. It is wired for electric but the panel is located in my main garage. Just curious if there is a panel build for 20 amps. Regardless, I'll probably get induction anyway since the outlet is available.
 
Yes you need GFCI. You need GFCI anytime you have water, electricity, and people in close proximity.

The big question (which I don't know how to answer) is: how do induction heaters perform when being turned on and off every few seconds? All of the "low cost" controllers act as time proportioning on/off controllers. That means they turn the power on for a percentage of the cycle time, and off for the remaining part of the cycle time. This works fine with purely resistive heating elements, but I don't know how it works with an induction unit.

Brew on :mug;
 
Thanks all. My outlet is GFCI, which I can see in the breaker. I was expecting a reset button on the outlet. I'll check out this bcs-460. I'm probably going to call out an electrician to quote an install of a 30 amp outlet and will review my setup with him. Definitely want to be safe for sure. Thanks!
 
This one has a manual control knob that can be turned to a setting and left there. When power is turned on or off at the plug, the unit will turn on or off at the knobs setting. Couldn't PID with SSR for 240V/20A work? Is there any off the shelf stuff someone is making? Or a PJ diagram?
 
gromitdj said:
Sorry I can't answer your specific question, but...

The unit you linked to happens to be 208V 1-Phase. If you are looking to use this at home, unless you specifically had it installed for a purpose, it would be highly unlikely you have 208V power.

Edited to add: Admittedly, I'm no expert and was thinking of 208V 3-Phase power... so it's possible that it would work on 240V residential power. Perhaps someone with more experience can provide a more detailed response.
Click to expand...


This is a very good point. A 208v appliance *will* work on a 240v circuit... But, it will actually be receiving more voltage than needed, and eventually the electronics within would stop working... The heating portion will probably work better than normal due to the over voltage but like I said... Your easily cutting it's life span in half.. and getting 208v in your home is no easy task.

I would start searching for a 240v unit before you burn up the 208v one. Just my 2 cents.. I'm a residential electrician in Connecticut.
 
Thanks guys...part of why I want to consult an electrician first to understand what I have. I attached a couple pics of my panel and the breaker in question. I guess I'm assuming the "common trip" was the GFCI protection, but I see this is not true. I read 240v outlets don't have reset buttons. What I see now is that a GFCI breaker has a reset button on it which this one does not. Would this outlet be ok to use for induction only (no controller or recirculation hooked up to it?).

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1498401112.424364.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1498401133.932495.jpg
 
oujens said:
Thanks guys...part of why I want to consult an electrician first to understand what I have. I attached a couple pics of my panel and the breaker in question. I guess I'm assuming the "common trip" was the GFCI protection, but I see this is not true. I read 240v outlets don't have reset buttons. What I see now is that a GFCI breaker has a reset button on it which this one does not. Would this outlet be ok to use for induction only (no controller or recirculation hooked up to it?).

View attachment 405420View attachment 405421
Click to expand...

No gfi or afi in there indeed.. also be careful in there man! The entire mid section of that panel board is full of live metal + wires... I wouldn't be poking around in there if you don't know what you're looking at!
 
HoppyHills said:
No gfi or afi in there indeed.. also be careful in there man! The entire mid section of that panel board is full of live metal + wires... I wouldn't be poking around in there if you don't know what you're looking at!
Click to expand...


Yes, I flipped the breaker off from the main panel so the power supplied to this one is off when I took off the cover.
 
Weezy said:
This one has a manual control knob that can be turned to a setting and left there. When power is turned on or off at the plug, the unit will turn on or off at the knobs setting. Couldn't PID with SSR for 240V/20A work? Is there any off the shelf stuff someone is making? Or a PJ diagram?
Click to expand...
I understand that the burner remembers the previous setting and starts up at that level. A PID/SSR controller is going to be turning the burner on and off every few seconds. My question was: how might this rapid turning on and off affect the longevity of the burner?

Brew on :mug:
 
oujens said:
After some exhaustive searching, I might have stumbled across more info on your setup where you say you use a burner for your BK. Are you using the 120v induction for HLT and MLT? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yes, currently 120v, but there are many BCS users using it for 240. If I had it my garage I would have mine setup that way. I've been using my BCS for almost 9 years now to control my HLT, MT, RIMS, and recirculation pump.

Checkout something like this from Ebrewsupply as an example:http://www.ebrewsupply.com/30a-bcs-control-panel-2-elements/
 
Had a crazy idea that I thought might be worth investigating. My original idea was to use existing outlets in my detached garage which is where I currently brew, hence the talk of induction. The electric panels are in the main garage. To run a 240v 30 amp outlet to the detached garage would be approximately 10 feet. I could brew in the main garage (make a cart and roll it up there with my gear) and install an outlet next to the panel which might be more cost effective. Then it hit me...My dryer is right next to the garage door. Has anybody considered or actually useing the outlet inside by cutting a hole through the wall and connecting your spa panel to it? The obvious downside is carbon monoxide, but my water heater is upstairs. The only thing would my wife's car, but if I put a wall plate up with some weather stripping when not in use on both sides, would this be a realistic option? We recently moved to this house and anticipate we will be here at least 15 years until the kids get out of school. I'm kinda shifting away from induction and thinking 240v 30 amp is the way to go, but I still might investigate a combo 120v 15 amp RIMS tube and induction setup (seems like the cost might get up there with that option as well). I think I hesitate installing an outlet in the main garage because ultimately I want to be in the "man cave" and know I'll probably need to save up for that.
 
doug293cz said:
I understand that the burner remembers the previous setting and starts up at that level. A PID/SSR controller is going to be turning the burner on and off every few seconds. My question was: how might this rapid turning on and off affect the longevity of the burner?

Brew on :mug:
Click to expand...

Good point. We don't know
 
MJ05 said:
Inkbird IPB-16 (in the link above) is listed with NEMA 5-15P plug. Adcraft IND-C208V has NEMA 6-20R. Will this plug adapter work?
Click to expand...

I don't even see how they can market that adapter... The 6-20R is 250v/20amp, while the 5-15P is 125v/15amp. The unit you referenced is a 208V unit, so it would not be a good idea to plug it into a 120v, 15amp receptacle.

Edited to add: After further reading it looks like it could be used for dual voltage devices, but the induction cooktop isn't a dual voltage device.
 
Inkbird IPB-16 is listed as: AC100V -240V, induction cooktop is in fact 208V.
Just to make this clear: I'm looking for advice, not trying to make a point.
 
I didn't even think about the plug issue, sorry. I was just looking at wattage.
There is the one guy here using this with a temp controller. He's never given equipment details though. It'd be nice to see what his controller is and how many brews he has with it. He has said its been working fine. I think it's safe to assume he's running it at 240v.

But his pics and his few posts would be enough for me to spend the cash and try it. I'll will do it eventually but for now I'm using the avantco 3500 and a thermal wire rims tube since my 1800w avantco died.
 
MJ05 said:
Inkbird IPB-16 is listed as: AC100V -240V, induction cooktop is in fact 208V.
Just to make this clear: I'm looking for advice, not trying to make a point.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry if I came off as such, but I wasn't trying to make a point. My advice was that the plug adapter you were asking about was not going to work for your cooktop. The 5R-15 plug is for a 15amp, 120v circuit. I thought your were asking it allow you to use your cooktop in a standard 15 amp receptacle in the U.S. (It won't)

The controller will work on 208v, but will only output 12 amps at 220v. This won't cover the 20 amps you need @ 208V
 
doug293cz said:
The big question (which I don't know how to answer) is: how do induction heaters perform when being turned on and off every few seconds? All of the "low cost" controllers act as time proportioning on/off controllers. That means they turn the power on for a percentage of the cycle time, and off for the remaining part of the cycle time. This works fine with purely resistive heating elements, but I don't know how it works with an induction unit.
Click to expand...

I'm working with one at the moment and it cycles the power to the winding every 5 or 10 seconds. I have a clamp on current meter that I'm verifying this with. Stays on for a few seconds. This at the lowest temperature setting.

(side note: it's for a cannabis extraction system :) Not for me, for a client).
 
So, Inkbird IPB-16 is not going to work (thx gromitdj).
Do we have any other option (as far as PID controller) for Adcraft IND-C208V cooktop?
 
MJ05 said:
So, Inkbird IPB-16 is not going to work (thx gromitdj).
Do we have any other option (as far as PID controller) for Adcraft IND-C208V cooktop?
Click to expand...

Custom build a PID+SAR and the appropriat3 plug adapters.
 

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