Imperial Black Barleywine Saga

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NoIguanaForZ

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The Imperial Black Barleywine Saga:

I. Background

Once upon a time, I formulated a tentative high-gravity original recipe which was really trying to be two different beers. Realizing this upon reflection, I went and brewed one of them, and aside from coming out thicker and less attenuated than I really wanted it to (next time I make that recipe I'm mashing at, like, 148) I was quite happy with it.

This is The Story So Far of the other beer my original recipe was trying to be.

In February of this year, the longer-term of my two then-local partners moved to Las Vegas to live with her other partner, due to, among other things, him having some serious health issues. The day she left, after...seeing her off...going home, taking a shower, and going right the hell to bed, to sleep off the time I put in helping her pack around work, for most of the day, I spent some time in the evening pondering, and my thoughts drifted across the other basic beer concept. I sat down, pulled up the Grains section of my LHBS' catalogue page and Beersmith, and planned out a recipe for a Black Barleywine, which I dubbed "Till It Be Morrow."

I pulled together a grain set in the vein of my original musing of

strongly caramelly, somewhat boozy barleywines I've had, with some "dark Belgiany" characteristics that aren't overpowering or connected with any focus on being "true to style"

, originally targeted Galena hops based on the description of a smooth/clean bitterness and "blackcurrant" aroma, and...

...appear to have posted on this already, actually.

Well, no need to repeat myself. However, it turns out my LHBS no longer carries Palisades, and with a bit more digging it turns out by "fruity" they mean "peach and apricot." Which...wouldn't work here. I did go with the pale 2-row for a range of 5 gallon test batches, except for the Vienna and Munich batches, determining that a Vienna-Galena SMaSH is a recipe worth brewing again, and the others...gave me a sense for the malt flavor. Also, I wound up brewing a (warmish-fermented) variant of the Test Drive Porter at that link with different hops (Magnum and Fuggles) and with Maris Otter for a base malt, which I dubbed "Ivy Mike" and was extremely happy with. I still have a few, actually...time to throw another in the fridge.

I refined the recipe through that batch and the set of 1 gallon malt samples, settling on Galena, East Kent Golding, and Willamette hops in part because of how it meshed with my other batches and what I had on hand, and sticking to the Maris Otter base, and with some minor tweaks, came out at an estimated 66.6 IBU and 16.6% ABV, which I considered too amusing to pass up. It also required two pounds of candi syrup ("D" and "D2"), a pound (I think?) of molasses, and the assumption that those affected the gravity of the beer but not its volume, which becomes significant later. I had planned to brew it in late April, the weekend after my calendar-birthday originally, but that wound up being the weekend my formerly local partner came to visit :3 and various other things happened that resulted in the brewing date getting pushed off by nearly a month. In the mean time, I discovered that my LHBS no longer stocks the brand of candi syrup on which I based the selections, the one that comes in plastic jars, and instead stocks the one that comes in plastic pouches. Whose product descriptions reference "toasted bread" and the like, which are not really the flavors I wanted to emphasize here.

Then, while searching for more detailed information on Candi Syrup, I found this thread and knew I had a winner.

I reformulated the recipe and finally brewed in mid-May. The batch is still going, as detailed below.





II. Recipe

I settled on the following recipe, for a nominal 5 gallon batch, dubbing the style an "Imperial Black Barleywine" since the target gravity is about half as strong again as a typical barleywine, and, you know, the color.

Grain Bill:
-18lb Maris Otter
- 2lb Caramunich 40
-1.5lb Crystal 120/"Double Roasted Crystal"
-1lb .5oz Golden Naked Oats
-1lb .5oz Special B
-1lb .4oz Midnight Wheat
-12oz Melanoidan Malt
-1 lb rice hulls

Except for the Maris Otter, all of these are measured to 2 decimal places, in the process of sorting out the grain I had on hand due to buying supplies for several batches at once (in the process determining that my LHBS tends to add an extra ounce or two to every pound >.>). This should have given me a 1.134 OG with my 80% extraction assumption, and fit in my mash tun with about a quart to spare assuming a relatively thick mash of 1.125qt/lb grain. However, I wound up with about 71.4% efficiency and about 5.86 gal with an OG of 1.120 per my measurements; and had to skimp a little on the water to get the lid on, due to, I suspect, some combination of eyeballing the rice hulls and Beersmith possibly handling their absorption by weight like other grains. These may be related. I targeted a mash temp of 153 F, overshot a little I think, and let it sit for several hours.

Hop Bill:
-2oz Galena (14.5%) boil 45min
-1oz Galena (12.8%) Boil 10min
-2oz East Kent Goldings (5.6%) at Flameout
-2oz Willamette (5.1%) at Flameout

Other:
-Irish Moss (~1 tsp) boiled 15 min
-Snickasyrup #5, using 5 lb of sugar to produce about 3/4 gal of syrup, then dissolving the rest stuck to the pot in water and boiling it down to about 20oz. Added syrup about a pint at a time after initial fermentations ceased, except added 20oz of dissolved residuals with the first pint, and accidentally added last quart pretty much all at once.
-Oxygenated for most of two hours, with a couple breaks to prevent overflowing, using an air pump and diffuser stone

Yeast:
-WLP099, starter as noted below

I was pretty much going for a beer that tastes like drinking a Nightwish album. So far, it certainly seems to have that potential.






Part III: Starter Technique:

Having consulted the manufacturer I determined that WLP099 needed to be babied for best effect. I made a multistage starter, roughly as follows:

BD-8: Boiled Golden DME in water to make a 1.04something SG, 2L wort, added 1 (about 3 weeks expired, since I'd originally bought it to try to "finish" the SHIP from the first thread linked) vial of WLP099. Added 1/4tsp of yeast energizer (the one that should be called yeast nutrient, that has vitamins and yeast hulls and stuff and not just diammonium phosphate) and something like 5 drops of fermcap. Fermented in a 2L erlenmeyer flask on a stir plate at ambient, finished bubbling noticeably in about 36 hours.

Cold-crashed over next day or so. Poured off most of the fluid in the beaker, poured the settled yeast sediment and enough fluid to resuspend it with into a sanitized plastic bottle, capped, put in refrigerator. Wound up with about an ounce of completely settled and compacted yeast sediment. Left dregs in flask. Poured more (chilled) 1.04something SG wort in, topped up with previously boiled water, put back on the stir plate.

BD-5: Repeated the above, including adding fermcap. Now about 2-2.5oz settled and compacted sediment.

BD-2: Repeated the above, including adding fermcap. Now even more sediment, I kinda stopped counting.

Brewday+1:

Having cold-crashed the third round, I poured all the yeast sediment, just enough pre-boiled water to rinse the previously sanitized bottle clean (2-3oz), and about 1.5L of chilled wort into the erlenmeyer flask. Added another half-dropperful of fermcap, put on stirplate. Aerated rest of wort in carboy while this was going on, adding at least two dropperfuls of fermcap to keep it from overflowing during the aeration. A few hours later, with starter bubbling noticeably, pitched it at high Krausen into the fermenter, with appropriate theme music, moved carboy to my fermentation fridge, plugged into blowoff vessel. The resulting volume was about 5.25 gallons.

Woke up the next morning to find that, with all that fermcap, the fermenting wort had surged up enough to completely coat the top of the fermenter with that cruddy stuff it makes, and deposited between a cup and a pint into the blowoff vessel.

Part IV to come.
 
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IV. Fermentation and Sugar additions

From my measurements and calculations, I had an actual grain OG of 1.117 (taken after adding the starter, with the trub mostly settled, as opposed to suspended as in the 1.120 above). I planned to boost the gravity by adding sugars, a bit at a time, when the fermentation started to slacken. Not being able to see the top of the wort to determine if it was krausening, through the goop stuck to the upper surface of the fermenter, was kind of a problem, so what I wound up doing was waiting until it slowed down a little and then siphoning the contents of the fermenter into my (cleaned and sanitizered) boil kettle (taking a volume measurement with a sanitized ruler; from my notes i appear to have had about 5.17 gal (at temperature) after accounting for trub and such). I made sure to stick the siphon all the way down to collect some of the trub (enough for nutrients), poured the more liquid of the rest into a sanitized tupperware to allow it to settle and get the last 12oz or so of beer that always seem to be trapped in the trub, and then cleaned out and resanitized the 6 gallon carboy I was using (well, as of this writing, "am"). I attempted to take a gravity measurement, however the beer was still actively fermenting to the point where the hydrometer sample wouldn't degas. The lowest reading I got was about 1.036. I poured about an ounce into a shot glass; it tasted promising but I felt like the hops needed time to mellow. I put the tupperware of the trub in the refrigerator, but the pressure from its ongoing fermentation popped the lid at least twice. I probably should have noted the day on which all this occurred. I should also note that the fermentation fridge temperature controller appears to be set to about 17 C, since I've unfortunately overlooked that in the past. >.>

As mentioned, I had originally planned to boost the gravity with a combination of candi syrup and molasses. Doing some research on candi syrup lead me to the linked page on Snickasaurus' experiments, and after some deliberation I decided the #5 sugar was perfect for what I had in mind. I made a batch with a 5lb bag of sugar and the appopriate amounts of water and diammonium phosphate, which, after I added the reserved "pre-boil" and flameout gravity samples from the beer to help dissolve it, turned out to just about fill a "plastic "1 quart" bottle and a glass "half gallon" jar, plus what was left stuck to the bottom of the pot. I dissolved that with fresh water, brought it to a boil, and reduced it to about 9 fluid ounces. I measured the empty jar as weighing 1.595lb and, full, as weighing 7.258lb, and the empty quart bottle as weighing 0.188lb empty and 3.099lb full. Both samples, needless to say, were off the scale on my hydrometer, but I calculated their specific gravity as approximately 1.365 and 1.283 for the 1/2 gallon jar and the quart bottle (which, I've measured, actually holds 35oz filled up to where it was), respectively.

After the blowoff vessel activity had more or less ceased, I brought the carboy out of the fridge, believe I took but don't seem to have recorded a gravity measurement, and added the 9-oz of dissolved and reduced kettle residue plus about about a fifth of the 1/2 gallon jar. After bubble activity died down again (a good 4-5 days later, I think?) I added another 3/10 of the jar, approximately. After that died down again, I took a gravity measurement (1.032), and added another quarter of the jar. When that died down, I added the rest of the jar, and swirled the ~4oz or so (I think the taster samples and the "or so" cancel each other out) remaining that had settled out of the trub (really should have recorded the volume) to dissolve the syrup stuck to the walls. After fermentation died down again, I took a gravity sample (1.024), attempted to add half the quart jar but due to weirdness with the bottle managed to add about 3/4 of it before I realized I'd overshot and decided to just go with it, poured myself a the sample (hops were mellowing nicely, I probably should have taken more detailed tasting notes) and used the rest of the hydrometer sample to dissolve what was stuck to the walls of the quart bottle, then added that.

According to my calculations, this takes me to an estimated effective OG of 1.147 and an estimated volume of 6.05 gallons. That...looks about right on the fermenter? Depending on attenuation, this should come out between 16.7% and 17.5%. As of 6/22/16, more than a month after pitch, it's still going, with about a quarter inch of foam at the top of the beer in the fermenter and plenty of bubbles in the blowoff vessel...
 
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I still think this is a bat*guano* insane recipe, but I'm delighted to see that you're going through with it and sharing (well, wall-of-texting) your updates. Did you really give a five gallon batch five pounds of SnickASaurusRex #5? That is totally wack. In the future, I would suggest reducing some of the specialty grains and doing some wort concentration alongside your boil - you can get a lot of those brilliant caramel and dark fruit flavors with wort concentration and/or a long (several hours) boil, which I find really cool.

I'll be in Sac (okay, flying in and eating at Swabbie's before driving up to Chico) in about three and a half weeks and I would offer to taste test this for you, but I have a feeling I'll be better off waiting a few years before this delightful monstrosity has aged to drinkability. Cheers, and definitely keep us updated! :drunk:
 
Did you really give a five gallon batch five pounds of SnickASaurusRex #5? That is totally wack. In the future, I would suggest reducing some of the specialty grains and doing some wort concentration alongside your boil - you can get a lot of those brilliant caramel and dark fruit flavors with wort concentration and/or a long (several hours) boil, which I find really cool.

Oh, I did that. Thanks for reminding me. looks like from my notes I boiled 1.5 gallons of the first runnings until it did that shiny-bubble-syrup transition thing and was threatening to overflow...looks like it was concentrated enough to hit a boil temperature of about 219.5 F, if I'm reading my notes right. And then there's a line I can't actually read.

Without the sugar additions and with my usual ~80% ballpark efficiency this would have come out about 14.3% estimated. Between mash tun space issues and trying to maintain sanity by reducing boil time (the note with the 219.5 F, for instance, was timestamped 4 AM), and thus sparging less aggressively than I usually do, it looks like if it attenuated the same percent as the predicted value, it'd hit about 12.5%. I was going for something "bigger," but this is sort of an upper bound to brewing efforts for the time being...

I'll be in Sac (okay, flying in and eating at Swabbie's before driving up to Chico) in about three and a half weeks and I would offer to taste test this for you, but I have a feeling I'll be better off waiting a few years before this delightful monstrosity has aged to drinkability. Cheers, and definitely keep us updated! :drunk:

Well, it's 1.147 OG, 69 IBUs per design specs. This "takes years to be drinkable" common wisdom for big beers is...not supported by my experience. Months, yes, but I'm guessing the years comes with much more aggressive hopping. Based on my experience with other beers (such as the SHIP linked above), as compared to the samples I've tasted, I'm shooting for opening the first bottle in late October. In three weeks it probably won't even be IN bottles...

Actually, I'd meant to ask about that. I don't have equipment to carb except by bottle priming. The yeast seem to be chugging along now, but I'm concerned that if I let it bulk condition in secondary for a month or two they'll go to sleep and never wake up. And unlike the SHIP, where I could simply pitch CBC-1 to finish in the bottle, this is already well above the 12-14% alcohol tolerance. I have a little left over from the starter, in a sanitized glass spice-type jar in the fridge, that I could make a starter with to bottle with...but is being tossed right into a 17% beer just going to shock them?

The alternative of course would be to bottle as soon as the FG stabilizes and let it condition in the bottles. I've been left with the impression, however, that bulk conditioning tends to give better results, and it's certainly more convenient to keep one carboy in the fermentation fridge than 30-odd bottles of various sizes that I have to worry about tipping over.
 
Well, it's 1.147 OG, 69 IBUs per design specs. This "takes years to be drinkable" common wisdom for big beers is...not supported by my experience. Months, yes, but I'm guessing the years comes with much more aggressive hopping. Based on my experience with other beers (such as the SHIP linked above), as compared to the samples I've tasted, I'm shooting for opening the first bottle in late October. In three weeks it probably won't even be IN bottles...

Actually, I'd meant to ask about that. I don't have equipment to carb except by bottle priming. The yeast seem to be chugging along now, but I'm concerned that if I let it bulk condition in secondary for a month or two they'll go to sleep and never wake up. And unlike the SHIP, where I could simply pitch CBC-1 to finish in the bottle, this is already well above the 12-14% alcohol tolerance. I have a little left over from the starter, in a sanitized glass spice-type jar in the fridge, that I could make a starter with to bottle with...but is being tossed right into a 17% beer just going to shock them?

The alternative of course would be to bottle as soon as the FG stabilizes and let it condition in the bottles. I've been left with the impression, however, that bulk conditioning tends to give better results, and it's certainly more convenient to keep one carboy in the fermentation fridge than 30-odd bottles of various sizes that I have to worry about tipping over.

My 12.4% barleywine (biggest beer I've done personally) was racked to secondary, conditioned for five months in a room that was in single digits (celsius) for about half of the conditioning period, and then bottled at a higher ABV than the yeast strain was supposed to tolerate, and it carbed up beautifully in a month or less.

You're using a strain that can ferment up to 25% according to the manufacturer. I guess it's possible that WLP-099 can rocket its way to 25% but will crap out with an extended period at 17%+ without a food source, but my money's on the Super Yeast being just fine to condition your brew. You won't get a perfect comparison, but I would suggest bottling a single bottle (maybe in plastic so you can feel the carbonation progressing) when you rack for bulk-aging. That will serve as a proof-of-concept that your WLP-099 can bottle condition this beer at this ABV. It won't guarantee that the yeast will be able to pull the same trick at bottling time, but it's a start.

I suspect CBC-1 or champagne yeast would probably manage to carbonate your brew even at 17%, but I think the WLP-099 will probably manage just fine without the help. If you do use the CBC-1, I would suggest slowly acclimating it to the ABV with a slow progressive rehydration. Rehydrate in 100 mL of water for 30 minutes and stir it up, then add ~50 mL of the beer to your slurry every half hour or so to slowly step it up a few %ABV at a time until it's around 14-15%, then pitch it with your priming sugar and bottle. I don't know if there's any merit to that technique, but it's what I'd do if I wanted to use the CBC-1 for bottle conditioning.
 
My one reference point on this is that I had a 12.4% wheat wine with US-05 that never carbed, and eventually I had to open everything and squirt dropperfuls of C BC-1 plus a priming tab in order to get a modest carbonation level. I think I skimped a little on the priming sugar because I was worried it wasn't quite done, but I know I gave it some.

Maybe I'll use the last of the WLP099 in a new starter and build it up in a similar manner to what you've suggested. Hmm.

Actually I think I have more in my primary than will fit in my secondary even with the (remaining) trub volume subtracted, so I can just bottle whatever's left over as a first start. That works out pretty well.
 
The blowoff vessel is bubbling. Still. o.o I think it's been, like, 2 weeks since I added the last quart of syrup...
 
Damn, that is some beer. Hope you're set up to force carb it.
 
Ok, this is a crazy brew, I like where your head is at. Tell me you are going to go the distance and freeze concentrate some of this stuff.
 
Ok, this is a crazy brew, I like where your head is at. Tell me you are going to go the distance and freeze concentrate some of this stuff.

You know, I might. Like, a quart...

I seriously need to get my hands on some frickin' port barrels. >.>

In the mean time, as of 7/13, it's...still...bubbling...but seems to have slowed down a bit. COAS. I feel like I should be writing that in blood on the wall. ;/

(I don't think the landlord would approve.)
 
Still bubbling. Definitely slowed.

I've more or less settled on bottling this as soon as it stops bubbling, or at least within a week. I need the fridge and carboy back. o.o
 
How likely is this to be harmed if I remove it from the fridge and let it eke out the last bits of fermentation at ambient temp/with a water bath?
 
As of yesterday, airlock activity has stopped. Gravity check this evening, and bottling if no activity resumes. Excited.
 
It's more less right at 17% ABV. Intense caramel, toffee, and dark fruits, with hints of subdued coffee in the background. Minimal bitterness, tastes balanced, neither particularly sweet nor notably dry, once the confusion of strong flavors that normally accompany "sweet" is out of the way. Possibly a little oaky vanilllin, even a hint of the darkest baker's chocolate. But only a hint. Bits of burned sugar and raisins, especially in the finish. The alcohol is present and warming but not harsh or burning. Has a sort of subtle red-winey quality. It might be credible as a tawny port if it were a little sweeter and the alcohol burn a little more noticeable.

...and that's the pre-bottling gravity sample :3
 
Aaaand it doesn't seem to be carbing: opened two bottles so far, one 10/16 and one a couple days ago. The first I got a slight hiss on opening but few bubbles; the second I got nothing. >.> I guess I need to be set up for force carbing before I brew this again.

Tastes pretty good, still, but I think it'd be better if it wasn't flat.
 
Always glad to see long-term follow-up on stuff like this.

My guess on the carbonation is that between the long ferment time and the high ABV, your yeast were very possibly too stressed to take care of the priming sugar, especially if the last few weeks of bubbling was actually just off-gassing and the yeast had been dormant at that high ABV for a few weeks before bottling.
 
Highly relevant detail: subsequent "double imperial oatmeal stout" experience suggests that while most ale yeasts ferment into the low 60s or upper 50s, WLP099 FileSystem-ChecKs off to bed when it falls below 65.

Popped the last bottle in October (sorry FD) with the partner who moved, her other partner, and my most salient other partner. Meanwhile, now set up to bottle from a keg. Managed to get a bottle of Utopias finally, and the end result of the above plus 5 years of aging in glass is pretty much a "Utopias Junior," which is exciting.

May be time for an encore....
 
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