Ideal Fermentation Temperature

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jeffceo24

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I just brewed an extract IPA and I am using US-05 yeast. Now that we are in the warmer months, the downstairs in my house is in the low 70's. During the winter I was fermenting around 64-65 degrees. I have the option of keeping my fermenter in a closet where my well tank is. It stays around 66-67 there. Where am I better off?

I plan on primary only for about 3 weeks and then kegging. I see that people go to great lengths to control their temps but I'm not sure the ideal temperature range for fermenting an ale? Some yeasts and recipes give temperature ranges of 10-15 degrees. That's a big difference and must affect the quality of the beer. Thank you
 
I look up the ideal range for each yeast I use. Then I aim for the mid point or slightly lower. I don't know how big a difference if within the range. But far outside can ruin a batch. Remember that fermentation creates heat so you want to control the temperature of the fermentation not the air outside.

So the closet is better but still might not keep the ideal fermentation temperature. Look up "swamp cooler". It is a container with water in which sits your fermenter. You can add ice or frozen water bottles as needed to control the temperature.
 
If the choice is between low 70's and 66-67, I'd pick 66-67.

I ferment US-05 at 65F and get good results with that. I personally have no experience fermenting at 70 or higher (other than bottle conditioning though idk if that counts), so I can't speak from experience for that.
 
Yeast temps vary by style and strain. So the short answer is it’s never the same.

In general I choose the lower 1/3 of the recommended range for each strain of yeast for ales and the lowest end of the range for lagers and pilsners.

I do push saison stains at the high end of the range.

It’s about suppressing the off flavors for most styles to limit fruity ester development.

A good example is London ale strains. If you ferment them on the cool end they tend to produce very clean beers but if you ferment them warmer you’ll get some stone fruit flavors. If i’m making a clean ipa I don’t want fruit but if I’m making a NEIPA I want some fruit flavors to come out so I ferment the same yeast on the warm side of the range.
 
Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it! It takes time and experience to learn this stuff. I almost forgot that fermentation creates its own heat.

I don't secondary because I think it is too much risk of infection and extra work. Would you guys recommend 2 or 3 weeks in the primary? Thanks again!
 
For US-05, I think 2 weeks will be good enough. I always bottled on day 13 with US-05 and had no problems, fermentation was usually done by day 10.

But always take readings to be sure that FG is constant over a couple days.
 
Less than a month is what is important. There are a few factors to consider, but 2 weeks is the popular rule. 3 is fine.
 
I always like to shoot for the lower end of things and I know I'm beating a dead horse here but if you can manage a $200 purchase I just bought a new chest freezer and a temp controller for about that and I plan on that being the best equipment purchase I make. You can totally get by and make good beer without one but when I used to brew with friends and we finally got our fermentation controlled it made the biggest difference in overall, consistent quality.
 
Keep in mind that fermentation is exothermic so the wort temperature will be higher than ambient temperature, especially during the most active phase of fermentation.
 
Ferm temp control is important, an old or spare fridge (or freezer) may work fine for that. It also allows you to cold crash for a few days to let the yeast flocculate out for clearer beer.

Since you've got an IPA there, don't forget to dry hop 5 days before packaging.
 
I agree that the spend for temp control is pretty much worth it. I got a used chest freezer and a $35 inkbird controller. However, when I first moved to Texas, I had no such thing, and also had to deal with higher ambient temperatures. I found that Notthingham did well at higher temperatures (fewer esters) than most of the yeasts I had tried. Notty quickly goes nuts and makes a mess. It also makes a beer pretty quickly at those temps. Perhaps it spent more time "cleaning up after itself" than it did fermenting in the two week primaries that I used. I do primary --> keg.
 
Great info guys, thanks so much. I have an old mini fridge that I think would fit the fermentor. I will see about getting an Inkbird and turning it into a fermentation chamber! For dry hopping, I have 1 oz of citra pellets and 1 oz of waimea. Any votes on which and how much?
 
I always have liked Citra but I've never used waimea. I looked it up and it said citrus and pine notes. Kinda depends on the original recipe.
 
I would build a son of fermentation chiller. It is new and clean. The cost is relatively cheap, and easy to build. Unless you buy a new chest freezer, the one you find on craigslist is likely old, rust and dirty with blood stain/mold, who knows what were stored in it. The time you use to clean it may be more than you build the son of fermentation chiller.
 
Great info guys, thanks so much. I have an old mini fridge that I think would fit the fermentor. I will see about getting an Inkbird and turning it into a fermentation chamber! For dry hopping, I have 1 oz of citra pellets and 1 oz of waimea. Any votes on which and how much?

I'm guessing they are both fresh. Just use both. All two ounces. But, I recently decreased my dry-hopping time to three or four days. I feel I get more aroma that way. There is some AHA article out there with the supporting data along with a Brulosophy xbeeriment that made me try it. I've been doing so with much happiness for a while now.

I really prefer just the three days and start my cold crash.

Good luck and happy brewing, my friend.
 
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